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Isuzu Rodeo

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  • I have replaced one of the (supposedly) 2 oxygen sensors on my '94 Rodeo 3.2L 2WD.
    I found and replaced the obvious o2 sensor that is located before the cat converter on the driver side.
    According to my Haynes manual, this year model and engine specs call for it having a total of 2 oxygen sensors, one in or near each exhaust manifold. I have looked and looked for the one on the passenger side manifold/pipe area. I have not found it.
    There is no post cat o2 sensor either.

    Any help in telling me where the second oxygen sensor is located (on the passenger side exhaust manifold or pipe) would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for your time.
  • I have a 2000 Rodeo LS with similair problems.It has 4 speed auto. When shifting from 2nd to 3rd it shifts real hard with a hard thud.Once I get in Drive I'm fine. Does ok above 30 mph.When I slow down below 30 mph & transmission downshifts to 2nd gear,transmission locks down like it had been slammed into Park. It makes a really bad noise when this happens. Drove it home from work one day,pulled into driveway & noticed shift indicator had been in Park.(For 6 miles).I tried turning ignition switch to on (Not starting engine) & shifting from Park to Nuetral slowly for 3-4 times. This seemed to solve the problem,but only for a short time. I replaced the Park/Nuetral Safety switch, located on drivers side of trans.No more problems for about a yr.Problem came back. I'm back to slowly shiftin thru gears again. Was told by dealership, trans. replacement was $5500.00.
  • our transmission went totally out one day...we bought a 2006 PT cruiser...I was tired of transmission troubles...I had had 2 Troopers and my daughter 1 nothings but transmissions troubles with all 3....
  • I have a 1998 Rodeo and several times I have had the problem of the hard shifting up and down like you describe. Each time the problem has been electrical, once just a short in the trailer light hookup. It might be worth checking. I took mine to a place that specializes in electrical systems, not a regular garage and absolutely NOT a dealer.
  • mrtrumpmrtrump Posts: 1
    Actually it was very easy, just a handful of screws. I had to replace all 4 of the lights on the right side of the dash that the old owner failed to tell my about when it was dark....so at night I had no idea how fast I was going or how much gas I had. It gave me the opportunity to clean the gauges,and the plastic face.
  • mysticbuckmysticbuck Posts: 5
    I have a 1994 Honda Passport and less than 2 months ago, replaced all 3 coil packs, because one was burned out. One month after that, the ignition module burned out. Now, my coil packs are burning out again. Any idea why? What could be causing this? Any ideas would be appreciated!
  • I have a 1994 Honda Passport, and thanks to advice from docj, I replaced the alternator to stop my coil packs from burning out, which seemed to work. However, another question...first thing in the morning, the car starts right up immediately. However, later in the day, (lunchtime, etc), it cranks for 15 seconds or so before it kicks in and starts. Any ideas what sensor may be causing this? Thank you.
  • I've experienced that same situation after a bad transmission rebuild on my '91 Pathfinder. I'd pull up to a light and a couple moments after stopping, it would feel like someone hit me from behind. It was a bad torque converter and I had to force the transmission shop to fix the problem.

    On the issue of drive shafts on Isuzus, my 2000 Rodeo that I otherwise loved, detonated two transfer cases and was on it's way to losing a 3rd (in less than 60k miles total) when I got rid of it. I had to take Isuzu to court because first, they blamed my 265/75 tires and then the 2nd time they blamed the 2.5" suspension lift on the problem. Of course, research showed that no one in the avid Isuzu 4x4 community had ever experienced transfer case issues and after taking my truck to a custom drive-shaft shop as directed by the dealership and the regional Isuzu manager, I left there with only wasted time because they laughed and said that there was no possible reason I would need a double-CV driveshaft for such a minor geometry change to the suspension.

    Most likely, it was the output shaft of the transmission causing the problem, not that we'd know because they never even inspected either of the two transfer cases to figure out whether the failure was on the input or output side.
  • [The starter motor on these trucks are a pain to remove cuz part of the exhaust is in the way. It can be done without removing the exhaust...]

    How? I tried to remove the starter and I couldn't figure out how to do it without removing the exhaust pipe. What's the trick?
  • This problem started to occur about 6 months ago now and again but now its daily.

    When working.
    Turn on ignition- Lamp test then engine check light dissapears allowing engine to be turned.

    When not working

    Turn on ignition- Lamp test then engine check light stays on and flashes quickly. Engine will not crank.

    Remedy;

    Turn off ignition and repeat. This cycle is repeated untill flashing light goes off allowing engine to be cranked.

    Yesterday I had to repeat 6 times. When engine did fire it died almost straight away. I then repeated cycle and started successfully.

    I've plugged in my elm 327 code reader but no codes are logged.

    Helppppppppp.
  • that happened to me also, if you smell gas its your fuel intake gasket which I had to replace twice. Not cheap either. But the mechanic told me it could be dangerous.
  • Thanks for your reply. Interesting. Don't know what gas could be though.
    diesel is safe right uptill its high flash point.

    A mechanic I was talking to said it sounded like an immobiliser problem and because the engine light doesn't stay on its not recorded in the fault codes section of the computer.



    Has anyone else had a flashing engine check light on ignition?

    Has anyone else used a code reader that can read codes from immobiliser system?
  • My 99 Rodeo (3.2L V6) had an intermittent gas smell in the engine and cab, and rough idle. I replaced the EGR, IAC, PCV and Fuel Filter. Runs smoother now, but gas smell has become constant. I do not see any gas leaks anywhere inside the engine or out. I have read different comments on it being leaks in the Injectors, the Fuel Vapor Canister, Vapor Solenoid or Fuel Pressure Regulator. Before I go spending any money on these I wanted to see if there were any ideas out there. Thanks.
  • Solved. After replacing the Fuel Vapor Canister and Fuel Solenoid the smell went away.
  • I have a 2001 Rodeo LS and I'm in need of a passenger window (glass only). There is a 1997 Rodeo at the junkyard. If it has power windows, is it interchangeable? Also need to replace the tailgate. Is that interchangeable, as well?

    Looking for any help. Thanks.
  • So i was driving my rodeo and i had a series of loud and i mean loud bangs. now my passanger side front tire will not rotate. it just drags and refuses to move. i tried getting out and pushing since its a manual transmission but the car wont move. i was forced to move it out of the way and i left a continues drag mark on the ground. anyone have any idea what would cause this?
  • jose54jose54 Posts: 1
    I have an Isuzu Rodeo 1996, changes two alternators and one battery and still have charging problem. Fuses are OK. Can someone help me?
  • meln29meln29 Posts: 1
    i have a 2004 rodeo i hit a pot hole while driving and then my car started making a rattling noise. i had my car check by a mechanic he could not find anything wrong with my car told me to take it to a muffler place i needed a new muffler but the rattling contiue. i can have my car in park and rev up the gas to 20-30 mph but i hear no rattling as soon as i start drinving here comes the rattling, it does it when im turning and when i press on the break to slow my car down its like the rattling is settling down so it makes a louder noise. what could this be?
  • I have a 94 Passport, never had this problem but I have had a similar "rattle" happen on another vehicle where part of the "honeycomb" inside the cat. converter broke off and started rattling about. If this is the case the noise will change with RPM, also makes sence about how it all started. The chunk can cause exhaust backup problem and can burn out the cylinder components. I would start with a muffler shop if a mechanic couldn't track it down then that would be the next step.
  • chemoniechemonie Posts: 2
    Mine did the ticking for 4 years. I took advice and changed my oil useing Mobil One 0w30. Believe it or not the ticking stopped in less than 20 miles although other people stated it took their Rodeo near 1,000 miles tostop the ticking.
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