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Isuzu Rodeo

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  • Boris2Boris2 Posts: 177
    WinterMaster is the only studdable tire among all of these. I don't know if it's such a good idea to go with studless tire, even though I've heard a lot of people are happy with them.

    Anybody got any experience with studless (or studable) tires on an SUV or Rodeo in particular.

    I got a quote for $396 from local Discount Tire store for a set of WinterKings (245/75-16), studs, labor and warranty certificates (lifetime road hazard). It seems like a reasonable deal except I'm still debating if I should go with studs and get 75 instead of 70 or go with studless (more expensive, less road noise, original size).
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    In most states they are either illegal, or only legal on snow covered roads, this means they aren't likely to be a common item found in a lot of tire places. Your best bet is to check in your local area for studded tires since they are non-existent in most of the country.

    -mike
  • Boris2Boris2 Posts: 177
    As far as I remember, based on the AAA report that I've read somewhere, studded tires are legal pretty much everywhere except Hawaii and Florida. I wouldn't on it because I don't know how old that report was. Pretty much everything you can even think about is legal here in Colorado :-))) You can use chains here, you can use studded tires all year round, etc.
    We just got some more fresh snow here today and tonight I'll do a test drive to see how the stock Brigestones perform on the snow. For some reason I don't think they'll do good, which means within the next couple of days I'll definitely need to decide what kind of tires I'm going to have to get for myself.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    In NY/NJ/PA/CT I know it's illegal to use studs on any street that is not snow covered, which is pretty much every street within a few hours of snowfall. So you could use studs but you could only drive on em for a few hrs between snowfall and snowplow. :( I guess things are different out West.

    -mike
  • jimmyp1jimmyp1 Posts: 640
    I used to live in Summit County and a friend of mine got a ticket for having studs on in May, even though there was still quite a bit of snow around, just not on the roads.

    Jim
  • jimmyp1jimmyp1 Posts: 640
    Ya know, after sleeping on it (and checking out the CDOT website for confirmation) I think the law may be vague on actual dates for approved use of studded tires in Colorado. I think my friend got his ticket because of dangerous equipment or something like that. I think he may have slid into someone and the state patrol found a way to work the studded snow tires into the equation. I know that there is a general consensus that it's not good manners to have studded tires on after the snow has melted off the paved surfaces.

    Jim

    P.S. Congratulations to Paisan for winning an autocross in his Subaru XT6! He beat some good competition.
  • Boris2Boris2 Posts: 177
    Well, probably Colorado is pretty much the only state where they can require you to have chains in July if you feel like going to the mountain pass :-)

    Anyways, we got quite a lot of snow yesterday and I took a test drive to find out if the stock Brigestones are any good. Well, they did a very decent job. The breaking distance is still longer than on a car with any tires (winter or all season) but it's twice heavier than most of the cars :-) The handling and traction, on the other hand, was much better than I expected so I probably stay with original tires for a while. That's my first SUV and yesterday i got a full understanding what 4WD actually means... :-) I think I'll get a set of snow chains and put them in the trunk just in case though.
    One thing that kind of turns me out about the studded snows that they offer in this size is that they all (it's actually only two brands) are car-like tires. I had them in different size on my prizm and even considering the size 245//75-16 the thread design is pretty much the same. I don't know if they are going to be any good for a truck.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    It was nice to win an auto-x. Too bad I don't have a nice 2.2l Turbo Legacy to do it with. Hee hee

    -mike
  • g159g159 Posts: 23
    The advantage of modern snow tires is soft rubber that stays in contact with the road better at low temperature. You want a tire with lots of sipes, those little cuts along the tread blocks perpendicular to the direction of rotation. Most any snow tire would be great. Or you could get a more off road/snow oriented tire like the Goodyear wrangler at/s. Even consumer reports thinks that snow tires on a suv are overkill, although I personally don't.
  • dchoppdchopp Posts: 256
    For the record the use of studded snow tires is permisable in the state of Pa.from Nov 1st thru April 15th regardless if the roads are snow covered or dry.
  • After two new sets of tires in a period of about 8 weeks(2 different models), an alignment, two balances (one by the dealership and one by firestone who put the new tires on, and a front brake job, I am still experiencing vibration in my steering wheel at 50 mph or higher. Dealership says there is no problem with the suspension although their is a leak around the pinion gasket. Dealership also says that three of my four new Dueler HL's are bad and are not able to be brought within balancing specifications. Firestone is willing to change tires out again with a smaller size 245/70R16 which is what the truck calls for although when I bought it it had 245/75R16 and I never had a problem with them. After the dealership did their high speed balance it does ride better but there is still vibration which is annoying. Do you think it will make a difference if I put a smaller tire on my truck. What could the problem be? What would you do at this point? Is it really probable that I have been sold two sets of bad tires even though they were brand new.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    You need to use a Hunter balancing machine. It's a fairly well documented factoid that '98&'99 Rodeos were poorly balanced rims. This will not be fixed by a run of the mill balancing machine.

    -mike
  • gpm5gpm5 Posts: 785
    I had my new TOYO A/Ts put on and on a long trip found them to be out of balance. I took the trooper back and told them. They pulled the tires off the rims reset them by turning them with respect to the rim and rebalanced. Plus, they told me they were not optimally balanced as they were.

    Generally, a heavier tire with thicker tread is harder to balance, and sometimes a tire replacement is necessary.

    I'm not a fan of Fstones, since I dumped my stock 684s at 20k miles due to cracking. But the 684s were well balanced. That larger size should not make a difference.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Just had my Pirelli Scorpion AT 275-70-16s mounted at Costco for $9/tire. They are all perfectly balanced. I believe they used the Hunter 9XXX machine and it worked out well.

    -mike
  • gpm5gpm5 Posts: 785
    Some places don't make the effort to get it right the 1st time, which is what happened in my case. They are balanced perfectly now, after I complained.

    BTW Paisan, how do you like the new tires? Do you have white letters out?
  • gpm5gpm5 Posts: 785
    Just read your other posts on the trooper page. Are the white letters out though?
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    I went black side out, not a big fan of white letters.

    -mike
  • Hi- been reading for awhile, first post. About Shocks...yes, I know they've been covered a thousand times but I have a 2000 LSE which supposedly has "intelligent suspension". I'm not impressed. To me, it is squishy with a lot of lean and bounce. Now bear in mind that I drove a 3/4 ton diesel pickup daily for 5 years prior to getting the Rodeo so I was used to a very stiff ride and feeling every bump in the road.

    The issues I have with the Rodeo are:

    1. A slight vibration - not in the steering wheel but in the vehicle overall. I notice it when I sing along (badly) with the radio and my voice vibrates. Now this may have happened in the diesel as well, but it was kind of hard to hear or feel anything above the engine noise so I didn't notice it. It could be the tires. I've mentioned this to the dealer and they say it's the tires not being *perfectly* round and if a perfectly round tire could be found, the Rodeo's ride would be perfect(?).
    2. Bounce and lean on turns. It often feels like I don't have full control of the vehicle and I feel like I'm wandering all over the road. It is easier over bumps, railroad tracks, etc. than the truck, however. I want a stiffer ride but then again I don't want to be thrown to the opposite side of the car when I hit a bump like I was in the truck.

    I do not go off road, except my gravel driveway and the occasional curb hopping in traffic so that is not an issue. I'm just hoping for a firmer, smoother, more controlled ride. Given this, which shock - Monroe SensaTrak, MonroeMatic, or Ranchos (or something else) would be best for me and would any be better than these supposed "intelligent" shocks on it now? I seem to recall reading a post that implied the intelligent suspension solved the problems associated with the Rodeo ride.

    Thanks for your help.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    If money wasn't a concern, I'd go with Bilstien shocks in your situation. They are pricey but deliver the best on-road ride. The stock shocks are still non-gas shocks and therefor do not deliver a good firm ride. I have my Trooper shocks here that I took out at 10K miles and they are shot. The 2nd best shocks in your situation would be Rancho 9000s since they are adjustable from rock hard to lincoln soft, these are what I have, for towing and offroading I stiffen them up, for normal driving I soften themm a bit.

    -mike
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,109
    We're glad you finally decided to join in the fun, bgabriel, and we hope to hear a lot more from you!

    tidester
    Host
    SUVs
  • When I took my 96 Rodeo to Isuzu they did tell me that while no tire is really perfectly round, mine were so unround that the couldn't balance them within specifications. I'm assuming they used the Hunter machine because the service tech explained to me that it was a very expensive piece of equipment and that not every one had it. It gave me a print out of the position of the weights and told me whether or not my rims and tires passed or failed. One tire passed, one was marginal, two failed and all rims passed. When I bought the truck in February of 2000, it had 47000 miles and had Firestone Dueler APT tires size 245/75R16. I loved them. I guess I'll just have to live with the vibration and hope maybe it works itself out.
  • gads3gads3 Posts: 1
    I own a 2001 Rodeo LS. As per normal, I am unhappy with the shocks, and maybe I need new springs as well. When I had my '95 rodeo, I installed Monroe gas shocks and Good Year Wranglers (the largest size for a 15" wheel), and the car rode like a dream (for a truck)on and off road.
    Currently, Monroe says they do not make shocks for the Rodeo 2001. Apparently, the design changed. Only the replacement shcoks are available from Isuzu. Is there another brand? These Isuzu shocks SUCK! It really makes it a drag to drive the car, if not plain unsafe! Also, I read that tire pressure changes might help. I have standard P245-70R16- Bridgestone. Can wait to get a size wider tire. Noisier, but more stable.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    I don't think there has been any changes to the shocks on the rodeos. I believe that the manufacturers just haven't updated their catalogs yet.

    -mike
  • gpm5gpm5 Posts: 785
    I would not live with that! If they can't balance the tires do to them being to far off, they are JUNK. Make them take them back and get another brand. The vibration will not work itself out and could end up damaging your truck.
  • Thanks for the suggestions. I have a question. What exactly is the Intelligent Suspension? Is it in the shocks themselves or will it still exist when I replace the shocks? Others have been happy with the Monroe shocks - are you saying they are an improvement over the regular Rodeo suspension but not the ISC? (Jeez, how bad is the ride in the "non-intelligent" Rodeos??) Also, how long should one expect the stock shocks to last? I have 16000 miles on the truck and don't really want to replace the shocks until it's necessary.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    ISC changes the valving of the shocks in the rear, it continually changes em. They re-programmed em for 2001 and they should be much better in the 01 as opposed to the 00 models. I personally would change out the fronts first and see how it rides, I'll be the problem is the front non-gas shocks. The rears should last like 50-100K miles, the fronts though 10K and they are shot.

    -mike
  • That sounds like a plan. I think I'll put the Bilsteins on the front now (or when I find a job - tis the season for layoffs) and, if that does the trick, replace the rear when I get new tires in a couple of years. Thanks.
  • Paisan - you said 10K for the front shocks. Does that mean I should expect to be replacing them every year? Would that be the same with the upgrades?
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    The stock shocks they put on the US bound/US built vehicles are crappy Tokico Hydrolic shocks. They wear out in the first 10K miles. Once you upgrade they'll last probably another 50K->100K like normal shocks. The ISC ones should last 50K-100K because they are gas charged.

    -mike
  • Boris2Boris2 Posts: 177
    tjackisu, I don't know if it could be the case with your Rodeo, but I had similar problem on my Prizm. I replaced the original Firestones that it came with at around 20K primarily because of the bad vibration. Instead, I bought a set of Assuro's (Big-O brand) and the problem dissappeared for a while. At around 50K it started again. I did a total of about 10 ballances + 2 allignments. Took it to various shops several times, had the front tires replaced but nothing seemed to fix the problem. However, I took it for regular brake inspection to Brakes Plus and also told them about this issue. They suggested I replace the front rotors. I never did so (sold the car before I decided to change the rotors), but it seems completely reasonable. I'm not sure when was the last time you had you rotors machined or replaced, but I had almost 70K mi on my Prizm when I sold it with ORIGINAL brakes - pads, rotors and drums. It could easily be the case with your Rodeo - the rotors are pretty heavy and if they are bended it might easiliy cause the vibration. A lot of shops might not even notice the bending if it's very slight, but it can still cause the vibration.
    Hope this helps.
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