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Isuzu Rodeo

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  • pondviewpondview Posts: 22
    Thanks for the links, Partscheap.com was fantastic. Ordered side steps, hood protector, and tail light trim and shipping from CA to RI was only $36. Side steps were only $281..a far cry from the dealer quoted cost of $411, then an extra $100 to install. You got to be kidding me, all it is is a couple of bolts to fasten.

    thanks again
  • armtdmarmtdm Posts: 2,057
    If you have a car max or similar operation near you worth a shot. They guarantee the price for a week and you can then do the buy out and go to Car MAx and sell it to them for a profit. Assuming the price is higher of course. I have seen some great used car prices offered from Car MAx
  • pondviewpondview Posts: 22
    boy, this board is dead, lol I just bought a new Rodeo LSE. The ride is so much better than my 1998 Rodeo. Is the intelligent suspension the reason? Would the ride be the same as my 1998 without the Intell. susp. option, or have there been other improvements?
  • amigo_johnamigo_john Posts: 107
    I think most of the hardcore off-roaders either own an Amigo or Trooper. Most of the Rodeoites are daily drivers and don't tinker with improvements and aftermarket add-ons so they don't have as much to talk about.

    The 98 had a lot more problems than the following years. The 2001-2002 models have a slightly beefed up frame in the front for better crash protection. I wouldn't be surprised if they made some ride improvements too. My 2001 rides a lot smoother than my 96 Rodeo or 98 Amigo did. Do we have a Rodeo suspension expert around here???
  • jbkennedyjbkennedy Posts: 70
    Our 2001 Rodeo LS is now a year old, with 10K miles, and we have really enjoyed it. We have had no problems, so far. Good luck on your new LSE.
  • catamcatam Posts: 331
    Does anyone know if the Rodeo engines are interference or non-interference engines??
  • pondviewpondview Posts: 22
    The ABS light on my 1998 Rodeo stays on all the time, it statted about 3 months ago(it has 37k miles) My local mechanic tested the brakes and said they were fine. Is it probably just the sensor and no reason to be concerned...or could it be something more serious? I really don't want to take it to the dealer.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Probably a sensor. The parking brake light would come on if it was a problem with the brake system.

    -mike
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Depends on what generation. The SOHC are non-interfernece, the DOHC is interference IIRC. http://isuzu-suvs.com I think has a link to the Gates page which tells which is which.


    -mike

  • As I recall too, if it is the SOHC Isuzu V-6 then non-interference, if it is the DOHC Isuzu V-6 then it is interference. I do not know which engine Isuzu was putting in the '98 Rodeos though.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Was DOHC.

    -mike
  • jspikeyjspikey Posts: 21
    I had the same problem with my 97 honda Passport. You can check if the fan is working by supplying 12 Volts to it. If it spins then it's not the fan. More than likely it is the switch, even though the A/C light comes on. The switch is easy to replace. It's right next to the fan, if you're looking up at the fan, it should be on the right side. It costs about $50.00 for the switch not accurate though, it's been a while since I replaced mine. Hope that helps...
  • jspikeyjspikey Posts: 21
    I just replaced my original tires Goodyear Wrangler AP 245/70 16 with Continental Contitrac SUV. I am pleased to say that the Continental tires are better than the goodyear. I used to feel vibrations on my 97 Passport at 65 MPH and disappears at 70 MPH. The Vibrations disappered with the continental tires. I got them at Discount Tires for 85 bucks ea. My other problem with the goodyear tire was the shock absorption of the tires on rough roads. The sidewalls were very stiff so I felt every bump on the road. With the continental tires I did not have to dodge the same bumps I usually drive to and it doesn't feel jittery at all. It's like driving a car. This tires are highly recommended. It comes with 60,000 mile waranty.
  • tapone1tapone1 Posts: 8
    I just took my 98 Rodeo to Discount Tires. They twisted one stud off, so they never put the tires on (appears it is their policy). They told me it was a common with Isuzu to use a lesser quality stud. I have received conflicting info from two different Merlins Muffler shops with one agreeing about the lesser quality studs and they suggest I replace all of them. The muffler shop also twisted one off when doing the brakes. Anyone else have this problem?
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    It is the shops. They don't use the proper torque stick on their impact wrenches. Basically you are supposed to have no more than 75ft-lbs of torque applied to the studs. Most put them on with the full impact wrench of 150ft-lbs, and therefore twist them off. I always fore-warn a shop that they'll be replacing them if they snap em off.

    -mike
  • This happens on all makes and models because shops are lazy and set the impact wrench way to high when they put the nuts/lugs on the studs. The next time you try to take them off, whether by hand or by machine, they are going to bust. The problem is now you have gone 5000 miles or more and you don't even remember the name of the shop that torqued them down too much in the first place :-(
  • I used to have studs breaking all the time on my previous Isuzus. Isuzu was definately using an inferior stud. That simply should not happen and it consistently did.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    That is the key, it happens to Montero, subarus, tons of cars, not just isuzus.

    -mike
  • tapone1tapone1 Posts: 8
    I personally have never taken the tires off, with the exception of the recent brake jobs done by a shop. The corporate office states that they torque to manufacturers specs. I guess there are multiple reasons why this happens; it just seems odd one seems to break each time the tires are taken off. I'll post the end result.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    They all *SAY* they torque em to the manufacturer's specs, but in actuality they don't usually, unless you specify it or you watch em do it.

    -mike
  • drmpdrmp Posts: 187
    I read an article on an auto mechanic journal about hand tightening the studs in a gradual and even fashion. Actually, the topic was about wheel vibration and not having the wheels seated properly. Regardless, it still emphasizes proper torque applic to the studs.

    What's up with the hard start. My '99 Passport takes about 3-4 engines turns before it fires up. It doesn't change even if I start it immediately or wait for the chime to end. Any insight? Please help.
  • tapone1tapone1 Posts: 8
    Merlins corporate office called. They are going to step up to the plate and help me out with this one. Actually, they claim that was the plan all along (they have been the only ones to take the wheels on and off). Still playing phone tag with Isuzu as to whether or not there is a common problem with studs on Isuzus in general.
  • armtdmarmtdm Posts: 2,057
    When I had some tires mounted last year the shop also stated to me that this was a common problem with Isuzu studs, break them all the time. Now whether they are incorrectly over torqued I don't know but I cannot remember ever having any shop break the lugs before on any car I have owned.
  • I am going to have to disagree with you on this one buddy. I have been driving Isuzus since 1986 and on my '86 Trooper, 89 Amigo and '94 trooper the studs always were breaking and stripping. They were definately using an inferior stud compared to all the other manufacturers. I understand they are spec'ed to a certain torque setting, but maybe the torque setting was simply too low. I don't know of anyone else who ever had the stud problems I have had. Hell I even had them break when taking the lugs OFF myself with a tire iron. That simply should not happen.
  • Studs usually don't break when you put on the lugs, they break when you take them off. It's becasuse the last time that they were put on, they were over torqued. Now when you try to undo it, it's all jacked up and bam.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    What Die said. Also I wheel with Monteros, Isuzus, Suzukis, Fords, Dodges, etc. They all have broken studs due to tireshops and/or dealers improperly torquing down on em. Heck here on the TH there was a lot of discussion about a year or 2 ago about Durango studs breaking with the same problem being the root cause. Maybe they torque setting was lower than other makes for Isuzu, but the manufacturer makes the rules by which the mechanics need to live by.

    -mike

    PS: It's funny that we are bickering and complaining about stud bolts, the guys in the Trailblazer/Envoy are having major issues with their trucks! :)
  • bburton2bburton2 Posts: 1
    I am thinking about buying a 2000 Rodeo. It is fairly priced and very clean with only 28000 miles. However, I have heard that older models had problems with cracked head, head gaskets, and valve gaskets. I was wondering if anyone has had these, or any other major problems with their Rodeos. I have two days to make the deal, so I need some advice. Please help!! Thanks!
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    The only problems for late models isuzus has been intake manifold gaskets that sometimes crap-out. Other than that no problems. Also on 98 and some early 99 Rodeos they had wheel balaning problems, but that was fixed by early 99.

    -mike
  • norml1norml1 Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Rodeo LS 4WD. Love it, EXCEPT -
    there is an irritating squeak that seems to be emanating from the rear on the passenger's side. It sounds like it could be suspension related because it gets more active and louder on bumpy roads. I'm calling the dealer next week, it's still under warranty, but I'd like to be able to make some intelligent suggestions as to the possible source. Anyone have similar experiences and solved it?
    I took my wife 4-wheeling yesterday on a sand road in the Oregon Dunes. Quite an experience as much of the time the car was floating on sand while digging its way through. Performed great! I made sure to keep the speed up a bit, but it handled like a dream and we never got stuck. I did learn that I need new shocks - there's about 28,000 miles on the truck and I bottomed out several times. I'm most interested in shocks that will smooth out the highway ride a bit. I've seen Monroe's mentioned before. Will they do the job and still allow me to do some mild off-roading occasionally?
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Could be from the rear hatch/door seal? Try spraying silicone on the door seals and see how it works.

    -mike
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