Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Isuzu Rodeo

1…1920222425…45

Comments

  • ryanendresryanendres Member Posts: 122
    I paided 90.00 at the Dealer or you can go to a jiffy lube type place for about 60 bucks.
  • r0de099r0de099 Member Posts: 35
    I have a 99 rodeo ls 4x4 i have 60,000 mi. on it
    and its due for maintenance.What kind of maintenance work i need to do for my car?
  • labbottlabbott Member Posts: 2
    I'm checking out a 99 rodeo with 47K miles. It has a 5 speed. What particular items should I pay attention to in terms of past service by previous owner and what I will need to do or have the dealer do? Many thanks, larry
  • armtdmarmtdm Member Posts: 2,057
    Note if you have a dipstick or not. If you have no dipstick for the automatic tranny I would not go to a quick lube. (my 97 does not have one) It is very difficult to drain and fill the ATF fluid and once filled via the filler plug it must be checked with engine running and topped off. Most quick lubes will know nothing of this procuedure for your Rode. I suggest doing it yourself or the dealer or good independent mechanic. Mine actually would not touch it as he had no way to pump the fluid in as the fill plug is vertical and you need a hooked tube to pump it in. I designed my own tubing to pump the fluid in.
  • r0de099r0de099 Member Posts: 35
    I have a 99 rodeo ls 4x4.What usually the problem when you have a check engine light on?
  • ryanendresryanendres Member Posts: 122
    Lose gas cap.
  • watsonc7watsonc7 Member Posts: 2
    I'm currently making payments on a 1997 Rodeo S (basic, no power doors/windows, no cruise...very basic). It's my first one and i love it! I bought it 2.5 years ago with 70000 miles and have only brought it into a shop once (replaced the clutch about a year ago). It now has 133000 miles. I have driven the mess out of it and am ashamed to say that I'm not very consistent with basic maintenance..but it still runs like a champ. The only problems with it now is the airbag light is on (i'll be heading out to an auto shop soon). Since i've had an awesome experience with my first Rodeo i've decided to buy a newer one, however the complaints i've read are scaring me a bit. Here's the thing, i've researched prices so many places and have, of course, gotten many many different quotes about the retail values, so i've decided to see what other consumers have paid, not what the dealerships want you to believe you should pay. I've decided to purchase a 2002, perhaps 2001, hoping that all the gliches have been fixed from the newer model. I'm seeing different prices but basically around $15-16k for a 2001 (v6, which i don't really need, my current 4cyl is powerful enough for me) with around 30k miles on it. I'm thinking of trading my 97 in too, but i still owe 4000. It's in good condition but with the high miles i'm concerned. I've got my heart set on getting at least 2k trade in for it (this is around the wholesale value i've seen in NADA and edmonds). That means that i'd have the remaining 2k tacked onto whatever i purchase. I'm thinking of going into a dealership and telling them i will give them 1500-2000 under their sticker price and the remaining 2000 from my 97 (if they pay 2k for my trade in), bringing the total back up around their sticker price. Do i have a chance? I've only been to one dealership, really bad experience, so i'm already tired of the haggling game. Also, i've read online that extra dealer charges such as dealer prep (which I read is actually already paid to the dealer by the factory), floor plan fee, advertising fee, and others are pretty much bogus. Anyone know about these kind of charges?
    I'd love to hear about what people are paying for the 4cyl and v6 models around 2001-2003. Is it true that if i waited until around november the price of a new 2004 would still be around the same as a 2003? I'm super cheap like that and would appreciate any suggestions on how to get an awesome deal.
  • jtk152jtk152 Member Posts: 139
    WatsonC7, I paid $21600 for my 2002 Rodeo LS 4x4 (V6, AT) over a year ago. Sister in law just bought her new 2003 Rodeo 4x4, V6, 5spd w/ pref.equip pkg for $19900. If you are looking to buy new, 2003 is the last year for a basic 2WD 2.2L 4cyl in the rodeo. No more 4cyl after 2003. No more rodeo sport after 2003. A totally basic new 2003 rodeo can be had for around $15K. IMHO, you are better off taking that $15K & buying a slightly used 2001/2002 V6 w/ more options. G/luck
    Joel
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Check out this discussion: Isuzu: Prices Paid & Buying Experience.

    tidester, host
  • r0de099r0de099 Member Posts: 35
    I have a 99 rodeo 4x4 ls.This morning on my way to work my car wont start.Then after a few tries it finally start, but i notice in the dashboard that the check engine,oil and battery lights were on.I was worried that maybe theres something wrong with the car but when i turn off the engine and on again it disappear.Is there something to concern about?
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Rodeo99

    It's your alternator. Common problem. Should be a cheap fix.

    -mike
  • Boris2Boris2 Member Posts: 177
    Anybody had any experience with extended warranty? I'm getting close to the end of my manufacture warranty (powertrain will stay but Bumper-to-Bumper is running out). I am shopping around for third party (or possibly Isuzu) extended warranty. So far the best deal I got offered was from WarrantybyNet.com.
    Their deal is actually a bit too good so I was wondering if anybody used them. Also any suggestions about extended warranty for 2001 Rodeo LS 4x4 will be appreciated. I got about 41K mi right now and need to start thinking more serios about it.
  • jtk152jtk152 Member Posts: 139
    Boris2. Much of it depends on the shop doing the work for you. Most shops wont even deal with the aftermarket warranty companies directly. You wind up paying out of pocket & have to submit a claim to the warranty company, Then hope & pray they'll cover some or all of it. I guess the best way to find out is ask the shop(s) that will be doing the work for you. See what they recommend. I've not heard many good things about the a/m ones. The isuzu 10yr/120Kmi PT warranty is pretty extensive, quite a bit gets covered. But- I know whacha mean. Things like ABS, A/C, starters, alternators, interior electrics, etc.. are not covered. A lot of the emissions stuff- computers, cat cons, etc, go quite a long way on warranty on there own (check you manual). IMHO, you are better off just banking that $500-$1000 for repairs down the road. G/luck
    Joel
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Just got Warranty direct.com for my Trooper. Paid out $600 2 weeks after I bought it at 51K miles!

    -mike
  • drudiggydrudiggy Member Posts: 1
    I'm looking at a 2001 Rodeo LSE with 20,000 miles, all options, 4WD. The dealer listed for $17,900 and right now he's willing to deal for $15,800. The condition is virtually excellent, from what I can tell. The brakes were pulsating a little, so they said they will look at that and fix if there is a problem. Does this sound like a good deal? I'd like to buy, but I want to make sure I'm not getting hosed. Any opinions will be appreciated!
  • jtk152jtk152 Member Posts: 139
    $15800 is a pretty good deal. To get a 2003 with comparable options as the LSE (No more LS or LSE w/ 2003) would cost $23-24K. The only major downfall of buying a used isuzu is the P-train warranty will drop to 5yrs/60Kmi. G/luck
    Joel
  • gf6gf6 Member Posts: 3
    I read somewhere that there are 3 service recalls for 2000 Rodeos. But when I asked a local dealer, they said there are none. Any one can verify this? Thanks.

    Gang
  • raydahsraydahs Member Posts: 449
    http://www.alldata.com/TSB/0029_mo.html
  • gf6gf6 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for the info. I still have a few questions. Does the service recall affect all vehicles or just a few? Would the owners receive a notice? How do the manufacturer determine which vehicles should be recalled? If they use manufacturing records, shouldn't they fix it before sell them?

    Thanks for your help.
  • Boris2Boris2 Member Posts: 177
    I just got back from a lake trip where I noticed that something has gone seriously wrong with my 4WD system. While driving on the sand beach with 4WD turned on i got stuck with my rear wheels burried up to the middle line. The funny thing is that I couldn't figure out how that happened because the front wheels were on relatively hard compressed sand. The more I was trying to get out the more I was getting stuck because the front wheels were not turning. The differential was locking just fine because the rear wheels were spinning independently from each other. Also, when I put it on 4LO more power went to the rear axle but front tires were still not spinning. Anybody experienced anything like that before? I am going to take it to the dealer tomorrow and let them check it out but I wanted to do my homework first.
    Also, anybody knows if 4WD components are covered under powertrain warranty? The manual is not too specific about it.

    Thanks!
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Have you engaged your 4wd every month at least 1x? If not, then chances are it's the actuator for the front axle causing the problem. On any 4wd vehicle you need to engage or disengage the 4wd unit at least 1x a month to prevent corrosion/lack of lubrication. I had this happen to me over the winter with my TOD on my trooper, I left it in 4wd all winter, and then it wouldn't come out for me in the spring. This is NOT covered under the PT warranty, although your dealer might cover it.

    -mike
  • Boris2Boris2 Member Posts: 177
    I wonder why manual decided to omit such a "minor" issue :-(
    Anyways, I was using 4wd two weeks ago, about a month ago and up to April in Winter. I know it was working fine during winter because I was able to drive in really bad snow storm that basically shut down Denver for 3 days. However, all three trips to lake beach that I had this summer, even though I was using it extensively, I don't know if it was working right. I didn't get stuck during my first two trips but I had troubles pulling my friend's subaru from the sand while early 90s Pathfinder got me out very easily. Considering the fact that SUbaru was much lighter than Rodeo and wasn't that badly stuck it makes me wonder if 4wd was actually working.

    Also, when I was pulling Subaru and when I was trying to get out on rear wheels this last weekend I had a HUGE vibration occur when I was revving up. It only took place when I was on 4Lo. I was barely mooving, or should I say I wasn't really mooving but rather digging myself deeper into the sand but the car would start vibrating so badly that I had to stop and try again.

    The problem is that I doubt they'll be able to duplicate the problem as I haven't seen a dirt ditch next to them to test 4wd :-)
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    It is in my manual I think.

    Hmm if there is a vibration, it could be a transfer-case, in which case, it would be covered under the PT warranty. Bring it to the dealer and see if they can diagnose it. It could be something even simpler like a fuse.

    -mike
  • jtk152jtk152 Member Posts: 139
    Did your 4wd indicator on the dash stay on steady during this ordeal, or did it just keep flashing on/off?? The transfer case engages electronically when you press the 4wd button, but the front (left side) axle wont spline together (by the SOTF actuator) unless the wheel speeds match. If the front axle does not lock in, the 4wd indicator should just keep flashing. Either way, like paisan says, look into the SOTF actuator first. These seem to always be the problematic link to the 1998+ isuzus. G/luck
    Joel
  • Boris2Boris2 Member Posts: 177
    Yes, the indicator was on and that was the reason I didn't even though that something is wrong with 4wd. I just thought I was being stupid and managed to get myself stuck where I shouldn't have. However, when somebody else came to us with the shovel and noticed that the front tires were not spinning I figured out it wasn't completely my fault.

    BTW, are the front tires independent fron each other? I mean I understand there is not lockable differential on the front axle but if, say, left front tire starts spinning, will the right one still be rotating or it'll just sit there? On the rear axle both of the tires were spinning independently so I was just wondering it the front ones are like that too.

    I will drop it off at the dealer today and let them take their time. It's still under Bumper-to-bumper warranty anyways so I'll let them figure it out. I'll mention SOTF actuator though...

    Thanks
  • jtk152jtk152 Member Posts: 139
    If your 2001 4x4 has the limited slip rear diff (two metal tags on the bottom of the pumpkin), both rear wheels should have spun at the same time in the sand. The front diff is open (non posi/LSD) so only one wheel will spin at a time in the front. Typically the wheel with the least traction will spin on an open diff. Hopefully your dealer will get you fixed up in no time. G/luck.
    Joel
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    On the rear you probably have an LSD which means if one spins some power will go over to the other one. On the front it will go to the wheel with the least resistance and the other will likely stay still :( I just sold my front LSD for $200 cause I never got around to putting it in my truck.

    -mike
  • Boris2Boris2 Member Posts: 177
    Mike, I didn't know you can buy front LSD separately... interesting... I might look at that - we get pretty harsh winters here in Colorado...

    Anyways, I got a call from Courtesy Isuzu today. They told me that whoever did 30K service (Midas) didn't do the repacking of the bearing right. THe very first thing they noticed is that the right axle is very loose which cause the ugly noise that I complained to them about and possibly the 4wd failure. What happened is that they put the parts that were supposed to go on the right side on the left and vice versa. Here's what the official diagnosis read:
    "Axle clips misinstalled from bearing pack causing clips to come off of axles - axle nut retainers misinstalled - need to R&R right knuckle and clean out bearing and repack both side wheel bearings."

    I went to Midas and even though they were not too happy to see me they immediately offered me to have Isuzu put the truck back together and get it to them so that they can fix it right this time. I told him that I don't have any personal problems with them but I'd rather have Isuzu fix it up this time but they will have to reimburse me (about $400). I can't say he was thrilled about it but said he'll take it to corporate and will see what he can do. I asked Isuzu to get an oficial estimate done for me and will ask them to fax it to Midas first thing in the morning. What concerns me is that I've heard that there is a law in Colorado that I must give the original repair facility a chance to fix what they messed up. However, I don't know if I can trust them this time and I don't know if Isuzu can check their work if I take it back to them after Midas fixes it (if it gets to it). Now, I don't know if there is such a law for sure and I don't think i'll have enough time to find that out - my Prepaid Legal Services takes 2 days to get back to me :-( Anybody knows about Colorado?

    I specifically asked Isuzu if axles or hub are damaged and they said no, which is a good news but if I do have to take it to Midas I will probably have to face inspection fee and towing (I have absolutely no intentions to drive it with axle barely in place). Hopefully I can get Midas to reimburse me for those expenses. Hopefully it won't get to it but anyways... That's where I stand at the moment... I'll post more as situation progresses...
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    Don't take it back to MIDAS. It is a crap shoot at those types of places...and it seems like you didn't find a good one. Although if they will reimburse you, that is something.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    It's actually the rear LSD unit from in impulse! Their rear diffy is the same as our front, 10-bolt corporate Isuzu diffy. A friend bought it new from isuzu a few years ago, put it in his truck, then switched to an arb locker, i bought it but never installed it and needed cash lately so I sold it :(

    -mike
  • 9815598155 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 99 Rodeo sibling (Passport) which often has a rough idle then dies. The idle pulsates when idling, then sometimes kills the engine. It appears to occur when the weather is hot and the car is nice and warm. Does not occur when weather is cool or engine is cool. Dealer said they can't figure it out without seeing it do it.

    I saw posts in Jan 03 by xcokeman, paisan and nato1 which sounds similar, but no note on the temp factor. Any clues?
  • Boris2Boris2 Member Posts: 177
    Well, Midas called their corporate office and contacted Isuzu, who, in turn, faxed them an official estimate. For some weird reason the estimate now was $471 and some change instead of originally quoted $400 (hmm... makes me wonder as they said yesterday that $400 is relatively accurate). Anyways, Midas general manager said that even though he doesn't agree with the estimate and think that they are overcharging he will authorize the payment to be made to reimburse me. I called Isuzu and gave them a go and just hope when they call me back they don't throw another number in my face. After that I'll have to take the papwerwork back to Midas so that they can reimburse me. Hopefully, it'll be the end of the story... We'll see if there are any more surprises...
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Hopefully that works out for yah.

    -mike
  • Boris2Boris2 Member Posts: 177
    Thanks Mike! I just got a call from them and authorized a $471.10 charge... Ouch! They said they gave me a 10c Super Midas Discount (I guess the estimate was $471.20) :-) Now I'll just have to make sure Midas doesn't forget about paying back.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
  • Boris2Boris2 Member Posts: 177
    My original Duelers are showing some age at 41K mi. They still look decent but the grip is definitely not good enough for winter and they squeal a lot when cornering. So, it looks like it's time to get a replacement in a month or two. I wanted to stay with all-season and like how Duelers performed. However, while 41K is decent milage for original tires, it's not what I'm looking for from the replacement ones. I got a good quote for Pirelli Scorpion A/T and wanted to get any feedback.
    First of all they don't come in original sizes so I have to go with 255-70/16 instead of 245. While I don't think it'll be a problem I wanted to find out if anybody have any experience with it.
    Second, how do they perform in off-road conditions? I don't do any serious off-road but I do like to be able to drive on the beach or on some moderate off-road sites. They don't need to be really high terrain tires but something comparable to original Dueler. Also, most of my driving is highway driving so they must have a nice ride at high speeds on good pavement.

    Any comments?
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    AWSOME tires. I love mine on my trooper. I'm running 275-70 size. Great in snow and offroad. Only wish they came in a bigger size so I could put them on to replace my current ones.

    -mike
  • Boris2Boris2 Member Posts: 177
    Are they decent on road as well? Not too noisy or bumpy?
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    At full pressure they are a bit bumpy, but only if I inflate them all the way up. My trooper is pretty quiet, so even with them I didn't notice excessive noise.

    -mike
  • Boris2Boris2 Member Posts: 177
    I just called Discount Tires to get a quote on Scorpions and they said they suggested I go with something else because Pirelli discontinuing all their truck line and will switch completely to performance car tires. They said I can get a very good deal on them now (about $75 each) but if it blows up in a year or I get a flat that can't be fixed they might not be able to get me a replacement and I'll end up with having to buy 4 new tires :-(
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I haven't read that anywhere yet. So it's probably just them throwing you BS.

    -mike
  • Boris2Boris2 Member Posts: 177
    I hope you're right... I'll try calling couple more places and get their 2c on it... Will let you know..
  • blklionblklion Member Posts: 5
    i recently purchased a used 97 rodeo ls w/76kmi and have been having problems w/ electrical/charging system. the idiot light start showing (batt and brake usually) and the volt meter dips down near or under 12. i initially thought it was an alternator/battery situation but i am still having the problem after replacing both w/ good aftermarket parts. it recently died at the light on a hot day w/a c on (live in desert), it started right up though. i checked the batt and its at full charge so i took it to the DEALER service guy to check the electrical system and he says everything is fine and the alternator is bad. so i replaced the replacement alternator and guess what? same problem. DEALER says i have to buy isuzu alt. (415.00) to fix problem but i have also found out, it is the same 60amps as the aftermarket one. can someone please help me out. hopefully i'm not the only one with this problem. i was always told these were good trucks but i'm starting to wonder.
  • blklionblklion Member Posts: 5
    found out alternator was upgraded to 90amps in 98 it was only 60amps in 97. want to upgrade amps on this truck some how.
  • jtk152jtk152 Member Posts: 139
    blklion, I'm not positive about the actual alternator fitment between 1997 & 1998, but the engines are different in 1998 & 1998+ have a serpentine belt setup as opposed to the multi belt, V-belt setup of 1997 & earlier. My experience w/ alternators is- you are better off paying the price for a new, factory replacement. I've had parts store rebuilt/reman units (alt and starters)last as little as a month. G/luck
    Joel
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    What jtk152 said. Your simptoms are very very common, and those of us in the isuzu circles know that that is the sign of a bad alternator.

    I'd get an isuzu part for the replacement and call it a day.

    -mike
  • df2000df2000 Member Posts: 60
    My mechanic used PRECISION brand alternator on my 97 Rodeo. Cost $220 after core credit, with lifetime warranty. So far after 1.5 year it still OK.
  • nato1nato1 Member Posts: 102
    The duelers on my wife's '00 rodeo started to show serious integrity issues at 25k miles. Cracks around the treads on 4 tires and 2 tires had cracks in between the rows. Not trusting Bridgestone (aka Firestone) I dumped them for Michelins x-terrian suv and I run them at 32psi and have no issues.
  • karman1karman1 Member Posts: 25
    Hello
    I have a 98 rodeo with a 6 disc in dash changer. Recently it stopped working, gives me ERROR 3 msg,( although sometimes it does read the disc and plays it) when I took it out of the dash and unplugged it and plugged it back in, it was working until I screwed it back in to the dash. Does any more have a clue what the problem could be? Could it be the wires or something of that nature?
  • jtk152jtk152 Member Posts: 139
    karman1- The 1998-2002 changers are known to be problematic. The weak link with them is the feed,eject,internal CD rack mechanism. They hold up OK if you dont feed & eject CD's very often. Once your warranty is up, it's best to pull it and just install an aftermarket unit when the OEM unit poops out. G/luck
    Joel
Sign In or Register to comment.

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles