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Isuzu Rodeo

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  • brianc3brianc3 Posts: 1
    Hey Boris2, I just had the same problem w/ my 2000. At the end of a 1200 mile road trip my C/E light came on also. I have been driving around for a week with it on and just finally had time to go and have the codes read. Before calling the dealer with the codes I replaced the PCV and disconnected the battery. Well, the light is still on. I called the dealer and they said my code P0440, is a fuel system leak,e.g. loose gas cap. Also, the service person said to disconnect both battery cables and hold them together for 30 seconds and return to terminals. This last step is supposed to clear the code.
  • bugsy1bugsy1 Posts: 16
    I HAVE A 20000 LS AND ITS 86000 MLS I JUST DID MY TIMING BELT , RUNS OK EXCEPT FOR THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT WHICH COMES ON SOMETIMES NEXT TIME IT STAYS ON THEN FLICKER SOME TIMES .WHEN IT COMES ON MY FUEL PUMP MAKE NOICES AND THE VEHICLE SHAKES . OTHER THAN THAT I LOVE IT . DONT REGET BUYING IT .
  • i have a rodeo and yesterday we stopped then tried to start it and it turned over but didnt catch. All the lights work, everything except the engine fully starts. We checked the battery, all the fluids, and all the lines.. We tried to jump it just in case, but it started then stopped once again. I dont think its the starter because its turning. It just seems like the engine isnt getting any fuel in it. Does anyone know what the problem could be?
  • anthony2nanthony2n Posts: 48
    Crank the engine and have someone listen for the buzz of the fuel pump in the fuel tank. If you hear nothing, your fuel pump is likely out or a fuse/relay needs to be replaced. The fuel pump relay should be in the engine compartment.
  • Why thank you! I appreciate that bit of information.
  • bugsy1bugsy1 Posts: 16
    i have the same year same model isuzu same mileage did my timing belt too, same problem with the check engine light and the shaking when it comes on or flicker fuel pump makes noises too. and i love it a nd dont regret buying it .can any one tell me whats the problem , i even bought spark plugs from the dealer at $18.00 a pop, . first it was my gas gauge . i went o auto zone they reset the code a nother mechanic reset the code too same thing . im afraid of the dealer , please tell me what to do thank you .
  • r0de099r0de099 Posts: 35
    I took my car to the shop this weekend to put a new brake pads on it.But before i took it to the shop i notice that while im driving sometimes i have to step on a brake real hard for the car to stop completely i mention this to the mechanic and he notice it when he test drive it and besides it i told him that the brake is too stiff.
    After he test drive it he called me and says that brake in the back is lockin up and i need to replace the front calipers which is cost me $460.00.including the pads.But after he finish and i test drive the car the brake pedal is still stiff nothing change.He said its normal but for me i think the pedal is not suppose to be that stiff its suppose to have a little softness in it.I dont know if this guy just makes me change caliper even though its not the real problem.What do you guys can think any idea?
  • cpophotocpophoto Posts: 1
    I have the same problem, also I notice that the blower on the fan will not go on. Could my alt be bad???? The car will just not start, Also someone said the presure valve could be bad???
  • anthony2nanthony2n Posts: 48
    The blower fan on my 95.5 rodeo cannot be turned on with the key in the on position - The engine needs to be started. If you have a bunch of dash lights on (bat, brake, etc) then that is the typical symptom of an alternator failure. The fuel pressure regulator could be the problem, but if you're seeing or saw electrical issues (dash lights etc), then my bet is on the alternator. As the alternator starts to go, the transmission will often be forced into a failsafe mode, where it stays in third gear all the time. This is another symptom of a bad alternator. But, if yours won't start, then you won't be able to experience this.
  • quynneequynnee Posts: 1
    I have just started to have a problem with my 99 Rodeo that sounds a lot like yours, although I think you were able to articulate it a little better than I. I am curious as to what you've found out from the dealer. Currently, I think warming up in the mornings or a cold day for a little longer than I've had before, the problem won't happen but I'm not sure. I've been thinking about taking it to Midas to have it checked out. I don't feel like the dealers can help me out because I've tried taking my car in there for various probelms and it usually takes about 3 times before I can get anything resolved if anything.
  • I have the same model and same problem. I had it checked out and the anti locking brake sensor is bad. Estimated price to replace it was $500. The mechanic said it wasn't absolutely necessary to replace as long as I could stand looking at that light. So, I passed on the sensor and had them take the brake light out behind the dash. Problem solved! ;)
  • I was also having poor acceleration with my 94 passport and we found out that the catalytic converter was severally clogged. Once we got that fixed it was like a new vehicle.
  • Hello, I have a 94 Honda Passport V6 Automatic with 94,000 Miles. I am having trouble with it Intermittently not starting. It will start fine for a few days then not start. I will let it sit for a few hours or over night and it will start right up. When I put the key in and turn it, the radio and lights will all come on but nothing else. It does not turn over, click or anything. It kind of feels like it is out of park yet the shifter will not move. I have taken it to three places and no luck. I have had all the relays replaced, got a new starter and everything else checked out. When ever I take in it they say it's in perfect condition and they cannot find anything wrong. They tell me to bring it in when it happens but they are all a hour from my house (could tow it but it would probably start by the time we got there). Can anyone help me? I am going to be having a baby in a six weeks and really need to get it fixed. You can reply to this or email me at Bobbie_fogg@yahoo.com or my Husband at Jamiewc27@hotmail.com. Thanks :(
  • anthony2nanthony2n Posts: 48
    If you hear nothing when turning the key (no cranking, no click), then it is likely one of two things. The Neutral Start Switch could be intermittently failing. This switch ensures that the car can only be started in PARK or NEUTRAL. Otherwise, you may have a faulty ignition switch. Failing ignition switches can cause the car to fail to start almost randomly, with neither rhyme nor reason.
  • Thank you! I will pass this on to my Husband.
  • mfallonamfallona Posts: 4
    Thanks for the info. I think I will do the same.
  • bugsy1bugsy1 Posts: 16
    HI , i did everything you could think of , to get rid of my check engine light . i took off the egr valve clean it very well disconnected the battery while doing that
    bought spark plugs from the dealer check and clean pcv valve . nothing i did seems to work
    auto zone cleared the code another mechanic aldso cleared the code and it just came back .
    can some one please tell me what next to do thank you .
  • I had the same problem with my check engine light ..My mechanic removed my EGR valve and flushed it out ..the light went off for about 3 days then came back on.evidently my EGR was just bad..it takes the mechanic all of 10 minutes to install but the part from Isuzu is around $250... Another possibility is your cadalictic converter is stopped up or full...
  • pkutzpkutz Posts: 6
    Brianc,

    My C/E light has been on on my '98 Rodeo for a solid 2 years. It is also a P0440. I tried the gas cap - no dice. I am convinced it's the EVAP canister back by the gas tank. The EVAP systems on early OBD-II vehicles are often too sensitive. Eventually I'll get around to it but the dealer wants a ridiculous amount for the parts and I'm leary of ordering on-line and having to deal with the hassles of returns if they send me the wrong part (can't count how many times I've had it happen at a walk-in parts store).

    Also, my '98 is the biggest pile of garbage I've ever seen or known about. It's only got 75K of the best maintained life a car could hope for and it will soon be on it's 4th set of intake manifold gaskets (first replacement by dealer, 2nd and soon to be 3rd replacement by me), it goes through at least 3 quarts of oil between oil changes (3,000 miles - I think it's the head gasket, but I haven't conclusively determined that), the EVAP canister problem described above, and about half the power windows switches on the driver's door haven't worked since right after it came off warranty (what a coincidence).

    While it was under warranty, it spent a total of a month at the dealer in 3 years. That's the only piece of justice in it - when we mailed Isuzu and pointed out that it had spent a month in the shop, they sent us a check for one months payment. It was all little stuff, except for the intake manifold gasket and the fuel pump (which the dealer screwed up and had to re-do) so we were never approaching lemon law status but it was, and still is, irritating.

    Has anyone here heard of similar problems with the manifold gaskets? When I realized what was causing the problem this time I first thought I must have screwed up the job last time, but now I've realized it's right on schedule - every 2-3 years or so. First set went '98 to '00, second set went '00 to late '02, and now ready again in early '05.

    Also, has anyone replaced the fuel pump and/or fuel gauge sending unit? I know I need a new sending unit and I suspect the fuel pump is going (that will make three of them as well).

    Any guidance would be appreciated.
    :lemon:
    Thanks for letting me vent.
  • pkutzpkutz Posts: 6
    Did you get the code from Autozone when they cleared it?

    Was it a P0440?

    The information I found for that error (I have had it for a long time), lead to changing the gas cap (no dice), and now has me believing the problem is the EVAP canister by the gas tank. Testing to confirm that before replacing takes more sophisticated tools than I have so eventually I'm going to end up ordering one
    (I found one online for about half the dealer cost) and crossing my fingers as I won't deal with dealerships for anything but a purchase and I don't know a mechanic I trust either.
  • I just bought my 96 rodeo (V6 4x4) about 2 weeks ago I absolutly love it!!! ...its an LS...What is the difference between an LS and an S...? What does LS and S stand for. This is my first SUV and 4x4 for that matter and this forum ROCKS!!!
    Also if I may ask...where is the jack? I cant find it.
    Thanks
    JeffG
  • I have 2000 LS, I have had trouble when I put the vehicle in drive, it is very sluggish almost like the brakes are on. When I hit second gear it is normal again. The check engine light comes on and the check trans light blinks. This does not happen all of the time. It happened about 3 weeks ago and yesterday it did it again. When I started it today though it seemed fine. Anyone have a suggestion?
  • chech engine light would not go off after i start the engine. sometime it is flashing and off...on..off and stay on.engine speedometer is ocillation betweem 1X1000 to 2X1000. engine will shutdown if you hit the break and stop. i have to restart it again. Anyone have a advce? thanks. my car is Isuzu rodeo ,year 2000 and v6
    2xw, with 26,000 miles on it.
  • Dear pkutz:
    your advice is great appreciated and i will follow your suggestion to try. hopefully, it would be working out. I will email to you and thank you again.

    best regards

    kiaping
  • pkutzpkutz Posts: 6
    I think your previous reply thanking me was to message I left for someone else, but thanks anyway.

    The sympton you describe here sounds a lot like my current problem with the intake manifold gasket.

    With hood open, try to let the car idle. I know it's likely to stall so have someone in it to give it a little gas to keep it running. If it is the intake manifold gasket, you might be able to hear a hissing sound from the vacuum leak. If you're careful you might even be able to find it by moving your fingers near the hissing. Unfortunately if you can't hear anything it doesn't mean anything so you have to get lucky to be able to tell this way. Make sure to watch your hands and fingers around hot an moving parts. I'm not going to describe the other way to find a vacuum leak as I cringe whenever I see it done.

    If it is the intake manifold gasket, it's not as bad a job to DIY as it might look like if you have some basic mechanical ability. It will be nasty expensive by a dealer or mechanic though. There's a fair amount of grunt work involved in taking stuff off to get the manifold off so the labor cost will be somewhat hefty.

    Also, if it is the manifold gasket, it's only going to get worse. Eventually you'll have a miss in it and it will be pretty much undrivable until repaired properly.

    Also, I know it sounds stupid, but make sure you've replaced the air filter and fuel filter recently. Always try the simplest things first.
  • pkutzpkutz Posts: 6
    Sometimes the brakes will feel a little funny and even squeal when they're brand new. I'm not saying he didn't try to rip you off (I have an inherent distrust of mechanics), but I am saying you might want to give it a week or 2 of driving.

    In the mean time, complain like crazy to him. Not that that ever gets you anything, but it also doesn't hurt.
  • In my '92 Rodeo, as I recall, part of the jack was in a compartment in the luggage area, part was under the back seat. There might have been part under the hood as well. It was a lot of fun the first time we looked for it!
  • Can someone tell me the best way to replace the master and slave cylinder on a 1995 Isuzu Rodeo V6. Please I am desperate.
  • anthony2nanthony2n Posts: 48
    To replace master cylinder:

    1. suction out as much brake fluid from the reservoir as you can
    2. disconnect nuts that connect the brake lines to the master cylinder. caution: brake fluid will pour out of the brake lines when you do this.
    3. remove the mounting nuts that hold the master cylinder to the brake booster.
    4. Installation is the reverse of removal
    5. After installation, you need to bleed the master cylinder of air. Have someone pump the brake pedal a few times, then press the pedal to the floor. Loosen one fitting nut to allow air and fluid to escape. Do this till the fluid coming out is clear (no bubbles). Repeat with the other fitting.

    It's an easy job. Use caution as brake fluid will strip paint. Don't let contaminants enter the brake lines.
  • anthony2nanthony2n Posts: 48
    The jack should be inside a compartment on the left wall of the 'trunk' area. The crow bar tools and related gadgets are under the rear seat.
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