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Isuzu Rodeo

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  • I'm also having this problem with my '99 Rodeo, where the transmission is slipping in 1st gear/drive and it jerks when it finally does engage. Do you guys know what might be causing it or what I can do to fix it? It seems to only slip when I start the car, and goes away once I've driven the car for a few miles. I've already tried changing my transmission fluids and filter. Please help!
  • I bought a brand new 04 Rodeo in December of 04. About 5 or 6 months later, I started noticing it acting funny (i.e. no power, missing, sometimes wouldn't start the first time, etc...). It had about 18000 miles on it so I took it in to the dealership. It had to have all new spark plugs, because the ones in it were bad. Even after that the problem wasn't completely fixed. Then when it had about 22000 miles on it, my husband and I were driving down the highway and turned the rear defroster on and my back window EXPLODED!!! We finally got them talked into taking responsibility for it and fixing. There is no doubt in my mind that the rear defroster did do this to my window. I got tired of not having a dependable vehicle so the day they got my window fixed I TRADED IT. I CAN DEFINITELY SAY I WILL NEVER OWN ANOTHER ISUZU!!!! :lemon:
  • Boris2Boris2 Posts: 177
    I replaced my original Bridgstones with Michelin LTX M/S. used them as all year tires for the last 30K mi. Excelent tires for winter and very quite and nice tires for summer. I've driven through several winter blizards and did a lot of beach driving. Granted, it doesn't perfom just as good as studded snows on clear ice, but based on my experience this has so far been the best tire i've ever had on any car.

    LTX also comes in A/T configuration, but they don't have the size that would fit Rodeo. Also, I doubt A/T will perform just as good as M/S on snow and in wet conditions. For off-roading and beach/sand driving, it'll probably outperform M/S, but for regular city/mountain driving, I think, M/S is the best you can get for this truck.
  • dude i have the same problem...check ur gas cap first...if that doest work then its more than likely ur egr flow valve....they have tendancy to "go bad". It wont hurt ur car tho.
  • THE REDUCE POWER INDICATOR AND CHECK ENGINE LIGHT KEEP COMING ON IN MY 2001 REDEO SPORT. THIS IS THE 3RD TIME BACK TO THE DEALER THIS MONTH. THEY HAVE REPLACE THE EGCI WIRING HARNESS AND NOW ARE PRETTY PREPLEXED AS TO WHAT IS CAUSING THIS PROBLEM. CAN ANY ONE HELP?
  • staabrstaabr Posts: 1
    Thanks for your contribution. I took my rodeo in yesterday and after they came back with "take it to the dealer" I insisted that they go ahead and replace the alternator. They were surprised when that worked and I was glad I had read your advice. Thanks again
  • You need to get it to a dealer... especially wdlands99, his is the same year as mine. The dealer is aware of the problem and can fix it quickly (I had the problem as well). Its important to let the dealer handle transmission issues, as these are sealed units that a consumer really cant even check the fluid level on.

    cheers from a very rainy Washington state...
    Mike
  • I have a 1994 Rodeo 4WD with 92k miles. Over the last year or so, I have had the alternator, crank sensor, battery and idler pulley replaced. These were all done by the same mechanic. My thought process was that they all may have had something to do with eachother so if there were any mistakes made I wouldn't have to pay twice.

    The alternator was first and seems to be "alternating" just fine. The crank sensor was next and was a big price tag b/c they couldn't get it out. They said it was melted in the casing and they (eventually) used a heated up screw driver to re-melt the plastic and pull it back out. After they finished, the car still wouldn't start. In a nutshell, their work order said "no power to ignition module......no power to computer......main feed wire somtimes had power and sometimes didn't". They ended up "running a new fused feed to ECM and ignition module".

    Now my temp gauge jumps to half way within 5 minutes and then slowly creeps toward the red while never hitting it or overheating. (Although two weeks ago I heard the radiator boiling when I shut the car off. This has never happened before or since.)

    Can this just be an elctrical glitch with the gauges that has nothing to do with the car running hot or should I be targeting somthing else? I have the oil changed regularly and they tell me the fluids are fine and it must be the dial.

    Sorry for the long post. Any thoughts would be appreciated!
  • 65ford65ford Posts: 1
    Just today of all days. My husband took the truck to work and called me half way through the day and said that antifreeze was leaking from behind the motor but maybe from the bell housing. Does anyone know if there are any gaskets or freeze plugs in this area that might be leaking? I really want my truck back. :surprise:
  • I Have a 97 rodeo & my gas pedal stuck what is causing this??
  • Hello to the group...

    I have a '97 Passport. I very rarely use the 4WD, and I'm trying to squeeze every mpg I can out of it. Are there are locking front hubs available for these SUVs? I checked the Warn website and the only hubs they showed for Isuzu fit the Trooper, not the Rodeo.

    Thanks!

    Mike
  • df2000df2000 Posts: 60
    There is 2 metal pipes with coolent going from front of the engine to coolaent manifold on the back under uintake manifold. They connect to coolaent manifold with rubber O-rings. These O-rings dried over time and leak coolant into V between engine heads and down.To get access you have to remove stuff on top of the engine(intake manifold, fuel rail). This repair pretty common on truck of your age. I can show you a pictures of somebody make during similar repair but edmuns rule not allow to link to another forum.
  • I have a 1999 Rodeo. The transmission started shifting ruff into 3rd gear and fills like it is skidding when braking coming to a stop. This only happens when the shift indicator light does not apear on the dash. I replaced the mode sensor and the vehicle was fine for about 2-3 weeks. The indicator light quit working again and now I'm experiencing ruff shifting and high rpm's in park and neutral.When you put it into gear the RPM's drop to 300. I also blew fuses that controled blower fan and turn signals.Please help???
    Thanks
    Mike
  • Bought the Rodeo new took it to Germany and put about 40k in 3 years often at 90 MPH. I have done normal maintenance with 1 set of tires with shocks/struts, new brakes all around. I also put a high flow oil saturated air filter on it (K&N). I get about 18 - 20 MPG depending on my mood. No severe off road just a little snow here and there throughout Europe. Brought it back with me this year. No dents, no complaints and I have almost 60k on it now.
    This car has been a great value and I would buy another.
    V/R
    Jon
  • Yesterday out of nowhere my trans started slipping. within 10 miles it went to nothing in all gears (automatic 2w drive)It has 156K and has always ran perfect. Lots of power. Now the engine just revs. No leaks nor do I smell any fluid. Help
  • I bought a used 98 Isuzu Rodeo recently. The vehicle was in excellent condition and I had no issues with it till I noticed that the breaking was not quite good. I took the SUV to a Isuzu service center and got it inspected. He changed the front brake pads but left the rear pads unchanged as it was in a good condition. The mechanic who worked on the vehicle also remarked that the SUV was in a very good condition. Well maintained.
    I took the SUV out of the service centre and onto the Interstate. At around 40m/hr I noticed a constant low rubbing sound coming from the front wheels. When I decrease the speed, the sound is gone. I thought it was due to the new brake pads. After three weeks the sound still remains. I took the SUV back to the same service center and this time they inspect the vehicle and tell me that I need to do the following :
    1. change the inner and outer bearings.($190 + labor)
    2. replace/repack the upper and lower ball joints.($200 + labor)

    They are going to charge me atleast $800 including labor. I personally feel that it is a rip-off. When I pointed out that the sound was not there before the brake change....they tell me that 'something' could have 'shifted' during the change!!
    I was surfing the net to find some advice and I luckily found this forum. Please please advice me on what I need to do. Thanks.
  • df2000df2000 Posts: 60
    Change brake pads is so simple and it is NOT involve to do anything around the hub unless shop tried to remove brake rotors from the hub to turn them, on Rodeo you have to disassamble the whole hub to get rotor off and you can easy put bearing wrong way, overscrew hub nut and it actualy pretty involve assembly. Isuzu recomend front bearing repack every 30K, if you never deep water crossing you can easy go up to 100k without this service. Bearing dont brake right away, if noise just started you may be need just repack(just labor) and may be just on one side; or you may be need change one bearing on one side(much less$$ and labor). I not see what ball joints have to do with this problem. Look for another shop to inspect your problem and send bill to first shop for **** job.
  • Hey df2000, Thanks a lot for the quick reply. Yes the shop did turn the brake rotor. Can you also please explain to me why the brake rotor is turned during a brake pad change? Is this a usual procedure?
    This rubbing noise was not there before the brake pads were changed. From your reply, it looks like the rubbing noise started only because the mechanic did not put it back together correctly after turning the rotor. Is that correct? Can I go back to the shop and demand that they correct the problem because they had started it in the first place? I just want to get the facts right so that I have enough ammo to face them!
    Thanks again!
  • I have a simalar problem on a 1998 rodeo. Driving down our dirt road. Lights came on then truck died. I pulled and charged battery got it home, pulled and checked battery, fine, pulled alt. had it checked putting out 14.6 volts, noticed drive belt weather checked ,replaced it checked all pulleys for free spin, fine . Any ideas? :(
  • df2000df2000 Posts: 60
    Turn rotor is pretty usual for shop brake service.Sometimes new pads develop noice(sqveal) so shop just not want to do job twice, and make rotor surface smove and square by turning rotor on lathe. But unless your rotor has deep grove all over it or it thickness less than minimal allowed, I wouldn't do it.
    There is "Stop,let's talk about brakes" forum in Maintanence section here on Edmunds so you can read a lot about this subject. Yes, I think they did not put it back together correctly.As I told you before it somewhat tricky, for example preload value for hub nut 4 lb and there is a procedure to achive the right preload, somebody actually use fish scale. Of course, you can go back and demand anything you want... I wouldn't hold my breath...a lot.
    Good luck.
  • I have a simalar problem on a 1998 rodeo. Driving down our dirt road. Lights came on then truck died. I pulled and charged battery got it home, pulled and checked battery, fine, pulled alt. had it checked putting out 14.6 volts, noticed drive belt weather checked ,replaced it checked all pulleys for free spin, fine . Any ideas?

    I would still be suspicious of the alternator. Many people have had theirs tested and it passes, but replacing it ultimately fixes the problem. This truck is very finicky about voltage. Check wiring to alternator. And, replace with OEM unit. Aftermarket (parts store) alts don't hack it.
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    Here's the link if anyone is interested: Stop here! Let's talk about brakes

    tidester, host
  • df2000,

    Thankyou very very much for all the advice. Armed with all the knowledge you had given me, I confronted the shop. They agreed to do the repacking free of cost!!!
    This forum is the best!! You are a star! I am so glad I came to the right place for advice. I was able to convince the shop that it was their mistake only bcos I was given the right advice by you. Thanks again.
  • df2000df2000 Posts: 60
    You are very welcome!
    Hey, another Edmunds success story!
  • I have a 1997 Redeo LS and bought it from a friend (the original owner). The alarm seems to have a short somewhere because the indicator light will blink until I 'giggle' it. Now, the light doesn't blink, but the engine doesn't crank. Is there a 'safe' way to disable the alarm system until I can get it to a service center?

    Many thanks,
    -John
  • The airbag light is on and the horn does not work. Factory says I need a new SRI coil. Any experience with this problem and how hard is it to fix? I created this problem when I had the Steering bar disconnected and I turned the steering wheel to much. Could I just have disconnected the electrical connection going to the steering wheel/airbag?
  • tjd4tjd4 Posts: 3
    My daughter has a 2001 Isuzu Rodeo we bought used which she loves. We've had it for about 2 years and are experiencing problems now. It has 69,000 miles on it. It supposedly is burning oil, we will find out for sure in the next couple of weeks. Our mechanic is going to put a high grade oil in and check it. If it is definately burning he said we should rebuild the engine or dump it. The car is paid for and she is in her freshman year of college so we thought IF we have to do something why not put a new engine in it and she can drive it until the wheels fall off. What are your thoughts?
  • wlbrown9wlbrown9 Posts: 837
    Until you know how much it is burning, you can't make a decision. If it is burning a quart in less than 1000 miles, that might be excessive...if it is a quart over 2500 or more then it should not be a problem. Also, it would help you to know if it is actually burning oil because of internal wear or just the EGR valve needing cleaning or replacing. The EGR valve is a lot less expensive than rebuilding or replacing the engine.

    Ask you mechanic what the result were of the compression test on each cylinder. IF any of the cylinders has much lower compression, it could be worn piston rings.

    BTW, do you know if oil has been changed regularly at a recent interval? Also, has the oil level been checked regularly? If it has gotten very low at least once, then there could be excessive wear from that.

    If you decide it needs major work, you might consider trading in the 'problem' on something else instead of putting out a couple thousand on a replacement or rebuild.
  • tjd4tjd4 Posts: 3
    Thanks for the information. We will look at it all carefully. The only reason for not buying something else, is b/c its my daughter's car, she loves it (it has 20" rims, stereo system, brushguard, etc.) and its paid for. I just want it to last her through college then she can use it as a trade when she's gainfully employed. But also want to know that she is safe when travelling. Lot's to consider.
  • I am having similar problems withmy 2001 Honda Passport. How do you know it is the alternator. I read somewhere else about it might be the transmission range sensor.
    What do you think?
    I also am having problems with my window wipers and my fuel gauge. Do you know if anything is covered under warranty?
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