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Isuzu Rodeo

1606163656675

Comments

  • randyolmrandyolm Posts: 2
    1995 Rodeo, small red light in a non-moveable tab next to the electric tailgate release button. Located upper left of dash near window. It has never come on until yesterday when the car wouldn' start. I jumped it, drove it home, and the light stayed on all time. This morning, dead again, light is flashing, beeping when I try to start the car, the tailights and parking lights are flashing. I can turn the regular hazard lights on and off and they function, but the mystery light keeps flashing. It seems to be an automatice emergency hazard system. I replaced the battery, nothing changed, car still won't start. This light is not described anywhere I can find in the owners manual. Any thoughts from anybody? Thanks, Randy
  • Is your rodeo equipped with a alarm that is the only thing that i could think of, mine had a problem like that but when i turned the key and waited a split second it started. hope that works for you.
  • randyolmrandyolm Posts: 2
    Thanks, that seems to be the best guess from everyone. I've never armed the system before, so maybe it had something to do with jumping the car, electrical system got confused. Eventually got it started, disconnected the light. I'll have to read up on the alarm system to avoid this again.
  • jdman56jdman56 Posts: 1
    I'm looking at a 99 rodeo. Not sure if it's an ls or just an S model. This is pretty stripped down. Factory Isuzu stereo cassette radio. 4x4,3.2 engine,65,000 miles, no cruise, 5 speed manual, no pwr doors,windows etc. Spare on back gate. Interior looks great,no real material wear. Body looks great, all molding & bumpers seem all secure. Paint seems to match all around vehicle including inside door. Belts look new. Coolant looks green, oil ok.
    This is being advertised on the net from a dealer in colorado. car fax shows it was an east coast vehicle from Pennsylvania most of it's life with the exception of the last 2 years which is in Colorado. My concern is the "white' stains underneath the carriage area & some in the front grill area. The body paint has no signs of rust or repaint. The wheel wells seemed to be recoated with some kind of black coating perhaps rust proofing? Of corse the engine is power washed to look brand new so I can't tell of any rust or east coast salt damage. Great test drive pretty solid vehicle with a litte ratteling from the spare tire mount on gate. my question is buying a vehicle from the east coast area where they use alot of salt. There was some rust around a few screws underneath but nothing real major and I noticed looking thru the wheels at the brake area the disc or some metal disc it is rusty. The drum mabey?(i'm not very smart with car parts) Any suggestions? The online price was at 7,755 & I got him down to 6800. I am going to have my mechanic look it over on Mon after Easter so any help before then would be great. Any suggestions? Thanks, JD
  • How do reset the diagnostic computer?
  • I have a 1997 Honda Passport and there is a thumping under the front passenger side when we slow down and speed up. Usually happens going around 10mph or less. We need to figure out what the hell this is!!!
  • buck380buck380 Posts: 10
    Check to see if there was a recall for your rodeo. I know the 98 had one re faulty abs sensor that caused the light to go on.
  • toy03toy03 Posts: 4
    I have a 2003 rodeo . if i drive for about 35 to 40 miles on the highway when i come to a stop then start moving again it feels like the rear brakes are sticking it makes a loud grinding noise. it only happens on long drives around town its fine anyone else have this promblem.
  • tdogg2tdogg2 Posts: 1
    I just bought a rodeo. I can not open th back hatch. The button unleashes the spare tire and can feel the door is unlocked. The problem is the door can not be opened without the window being opened. That is the problem. I can't get it opened. I have no owner's manual. It is a 96. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

    Thanks
  • There are two switches that operate when you press the clutch pedal.

    The first one signals the cruise control that the pedal has been depressed ands subsequently disables cruise control. This switch is normally depressed when in gear or at rest.

    The second switch is located at the other end of the clutch pedal travel and us located closer to the firewall. This switch does not allow the engine to start unless it is depressed by pushing the clutch pedal all of the way in. I have installed a momentary switch in parallel with the OEM switch so that I may start with the transmission in neutral and the clutch pedal in it's normal position.

    My point is: It is relatively easy to crawl on the floorboard and look to where the pedal swinds back toward the firewall. You will see a switch mounted to a bracket. Pull the connector and either test the switch or replace it.
  • CatheCathe Posts: 7
    to reset the 'check engine light':-

    remove fuse no. 4 to clear memory
  • hikick1hikick1 Posts: 39
    they are on ebay search "altezza rodeo"...you will find them....
  • hikick1hikick1 Posts: 39
    Is there a "tool" I can purchase to use at home to get trouble codes for my 92 4x4 rodeo? I have the manual with codes. Thanks for any help.
  • hikick1hikick1 Posts: 39
    has your 92 rodeo ever ran like it was starving for fuel or surging upon high speed accelleration? I have a new fuel system and exhaust. The exhaust shop told me I had a broken off manifold bolt after they were done....could seepage be the problem? thanks
  • sullyairsullyair Posts: 2
    I had the same problem on my 1995 Isuzu Rodeo. I found that the headlight relay (under the hood) controlled the tail lights and dash lights as well. Actully, I didn't need to replace the relay, I unplugged it, put it back in and everything worked.

    Mike
  • jcb2jcb2 Posts: 1
    Hi, this is my first posting and I need help!

    My 2002 6-cyl / 3.2L Rodeo now has 62,000 miles on it. At about 40,000 miles, my check engine light began coming on and staying on. After several visits to a somewhat local Isuzu dealer here in Chicagoland, no one can find the problem. The dealer has cleaned the fuel injectors, installed a new engine harness, but I still go through a quart of oil every 200-miles! Now I find out that the Isuzu Rodeo has a history of oil seal leakage - oil seals that are defective. I even had a routine oil change (I change the oil every 90 days), filled the Rodeo with 5 new quarts of oil and was empty 4 days later. The dealer can't find the problem and won't admit that there is a warranty issue. This has dragged on since August 2004. Now the Rodeo has 62,000 miles on it and the dealer says he cannot help me because of the 60,000-mile warranty. This isn't right and it's certainly poor customer service. Any thoughts from the forum members?
  • hikick1hikick1 Posts: 39
    I am glad I ran across this post. I have the same problem. Did it cause battery drains if you didn't totally disconnect the cables? Did anyone find out what is causing this?

    Thanks...
  • freedom247freedom247 Posts: 6
    My 98 Rodeo goes through oil like no other. I have had it checked and checked again and I cant get it fixed either so I just have to keep an eye on it and top it off.
  • baylor2baylor2 Posts: 1
    Hello. New member here. I have a 2002 Isuzu Rodeo Sport (58K miles). Recently I noticed the truck had a hard time shhifting up from 1st gear. The RPMs would spike up and then it would run just fine. The other night the trans light kept blinking. When i went to take it to the shop the next day I found that it would go on drive, but it won't move on reverse. Before i have to go and sell my soul to pay for a new transmission, any ideas as to what the problem may be? Thanks!
  • eryneryn Posts: 1
    I'm having a problem with my 2000 isuzu rodeo. It all started when the CEL came on along with the transmission light flashing on and off. Took it the MEchanic and did a check found out several things. The code P401 came on which states that there is a EGR flow problem. But i had the same proble 1 1/2 years ago. Can I clean the valve myself? The second code staes that the transmission component is slipping. HAve no idea what thats about. Can anyone help me with this. Thanks :confuse:
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Posts: 414
    While I am not personally acquainted with your Rodeo, the EGR valve is very accessible and can be removed by unbolting two bolts and the electrical connector. Here is a link to a diagram of location on rt side of engine.
    http://www.carspace.com/atfdmike/.59a45120!v=
    The only reliable way to check the EGR valve itself is with a Tech 2 diagnostic tool, which monitors the electronic activity commanding the valve and the feedback from the valve. Depending on your desire, you can remove the EGR carefully and take care in doing so to not damage the gasket. Then you could carefully wire brush the pintle (moving) part of the valve itself. The orifice that the valve controls will also be accessible, and again, if you have the right brush you can remove some of the accumulated carbon. It can be awkward and you have to take care to remove as much of the debris as possible. A Vacuum will help. Once you bolt it back together,(being sure to reinstall it in the same position you removed it) if the problem is fixed then the code will clear itself after a number of ignition cycles, if you don't clear them using a tech 2 or removing the negative battery cable for a period of time.
    You don't give the Transmission Code, so it is difficult to give any indication of what it means, and slipping can also feel like surging, which may or may not be trans related. Supply the code and maybe more info will become available. Good Luck
  • hikick1hikick1 Posts: 39
    I believe the tech II tool referred to is also known as an OBD II computer diagnostic tool? I have a 92(OBD I) that I just needed to find the 12-pin harness to check for codes....still can't find it. the repair manual said under driver dash and to left. It said I could use a paper clip in pins A & B to trigger diagnostic codes on check engine dash light. This is done with suv NOT started but key power on.... I would verify this if I could find the electrical pin harness....any ideas?
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Posts: 414
    I think you are correct....GM call it the Tech II, but OBDII is probably the same.
    1992 Isuzu Truck Rodeo (2WD) V6-3137cc 3.1L (CPC)
    Vehicle Level Powertrain Management Computers and Control Systems Testing and Inspection Displaying & Reading Trouble Codes
    Displaying & Reading Trouble Codes
    ALDL/DLC Connector

    SYSTEM OPERATION

    If a problem develops in a monitored system with the engine running, the "Check Engine" light will come "ON" and a trouble code will be stored in ECM memory. As long as a problem is present, the light will remain "ON" while the engine is running. If the problem is intermittent, the light will go out but a trouble code will be stored in ECM memory. As a bulb check, the "Check Engine" light will come "ON" with the ignition switched "ON" and the engine not running. If no codes are present, the light will go out upon starting the engine. If the light remains "ON," the system has detected a fault. To allow checking circuits which may be difficult to energize without driving the vehicle and being under particular operating conditions, all ECM controlled relays and solenoids (except fuel pump relay) are energized in Diagnostic mode.
    Note that many electronic engine control tests require the use of a "Scan" tool.

    Field Service Mode
    If the diagnostic terminal is grounded with the engine running, the system enters Field Service mode and the "Check Engine" light will indicate whether it is in "Open Loop" or "Closed Loop." In "Open Loop," the light flashes two and one half times per second. In "Closed Loop," the light flashes once per second. If the system is running lean while in "Closed Loop," the light will stay "OFF" most of the time. Conversely, it will stay "ON" most of the time if the system is running rich. While in Field Service mode, the ECM will not store new trouble codes.

    Extracting Trouble Codes
    The "Check Engine" light displays trouble codes that are stored in ECM memory. To activate the Diagnostic mode, a special connector located in the center console is utilized. There is a conflict in the manual on this, as it also says it is located where you have looked previously. When the ALDL (assembly line diagnostic link) connector is jumpered between terminals "A" and "B" with the ignition "ON" and the engine not running, the light will flash any stored codes.
    Here is diagram of aldl: http://www.carspace.com/atfdmike/.59a46397!v=

    The first code to display should be code 12. This indicates that the self-diagnostics are functioning and is not a trouble code. The code 12 display is a flash followed by a short pause, then two flashes followed by a longer pause. If other codes are present, they will display in the same manner after code 12 has flashed three times. For example, the code 23 display is two flashes followed by a short pause, then three flashes followed by a longer pause. Each stored code is displayed three times, starting with the lowest in numerical order. Code 12 will repeat when all codes have shown. If no codes are stored, code 12 will display repeatedly until Diagnostic mode is exited by removal of the ALDL jumper wire. Remove the jumper wire before attempting to start the engine.

    INTERMITTENT "CHECK ENGINE" LIGHT

    "Intermittent" means that the "Check Engine" light may come on at times but does not stay on. Since codes may or may not be stored, the use of diagnostic charts could result in replacement of good parts.
    Most intermittent problems are caused by faulty electrical wiring or connections. Carefully check these potential causes:
    Poor mating of connector halves or terminals not fully seated in connector body.
    Deformed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuit should be carefully reformed to increase contact tension.
    Poor terminal-to-wire connection. This requires removing terminal from connector body to properly check.
    Poor ground connections.
    If a visual check does not find the source of the problem, the vehicle may be driven with a voltmeter connected to a suspect circuit. An abnormal voltage reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit. If wiring and connectors check okay and a code was stored for a circuit having a sensor (except codes 44 and 45), substitute a known good sensor and recheck.
    Loss of ECM trouble code memory. To check, disconnect throttle position sensor and idle engine until "Check Engine" light comes "ON." Code 22 should be stored in memory for at least 10 seconds after ignition is turned "OFF." If not, the ECM is faulty.
    An intermittent "Check Engine" light with no stored code may be caused by:
    Arcing at ignition coil, plug wires or spark plugs.
    EST wires should be routed away from spark plug wires, ignition system components and alternator.
    Poor power supply circuit connections.
    "Check Engine" light wire to ECM shorted to ground (circuit BLU/PNK 03).
    Diagnostic test lead to ECM shorted to ground (circuit 451)
    Poor ECM ground connections.
    Electrical system interference caused by a defective relay, ECM driven solenoid or switch. These problems cause an electrical surge and normally occur when the faulty component is operated.
    Improper installation of accessories such as lights, sound systems, alarms, etc.

    Hope this helps!
  • hikick1hikick1 Posts: 39
    thank you. You information does concur with mine. I prevoiusly went from constant check engine to intermitent check engine by replace fuel and exhaust components and I do have a shortage/battery drain to locate. It takes about a week to kill a new battery even with positive cable disconnected. Heater switch wil run with ignition off so I suspect it....It is not the alternator nor is it a bad battery....I have not thouroughly checked the ignition system. I still have to find that plug though.....I just don't see the aldl harness? I will also remove those strange loose wires left by the previous owner.....I will post to group in new message for location of aldl harness.

    Thank you Supertech,

    Audrey
  • hikick1hikick1 Posts: 39
    Hi group,

    The repair manual states and shows diagrams of the ALDL harness to check computer codes at home. I cannot see this harness. Has anyone seen the harness? The book says under driver side dash to the left. Here is a pic set by atfdmike of the diagram from the book. http://www.carspace.com/atfdmike/.59a46397!v=

    This Rodeo has had almost everything replaced so feel free to post questions..
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Posts: 414
    I don't know if I missed something, or was just unclear in my previous post,but the repair manual I use states that the diagnostic link connector is in the center console for your year Rodeo. It does refer in other areas to the LH kick panel but, I know that older models of the trooper also have the aldl connector there in the center console. I would try looking there for the pictured connector. Have you looked there for the connector yet? If not, let us know if you find it there. Best!
  • khanh1khanh1 Posts: 6
    Hi, I accidentalty overcharged my 2000 Rodeo A/C. I tried to relieve the R134a by pressing the low pressure valve. I see mostly oil come (shoot) out of the valve instead of the refrigerant so I stop. What is the proper way to release some of the refrigerant? I do have the little gage that come with the charging bottle. Thanks in advance.
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Posts: 414
    Hi, You don't say why you added the refrigerant or how much, but usually it is recovered through a recycling unit and can be reused and not released to atmosphere.
    I am not suggesting you release the refrigerant, but usually it takes some time of normal AC operation for the oil to settle down after running the AC, at which time it will usually end up in the compressor sump and the accumulator(receiver)/dryer bottle (if equipped). Once it settles, shutting down the system will leave most of the oil intact, and the slow release of pressure from an ambient system will not release a lot of oil at the same time. Unfortunately, you have no way of recovering what you release so that you can measure it. If you attempt it, there will be some oil moving when you start releasing, so short of using a recycling station, oil will be released along with the refrigerant.
    With ALL this in mind, the best answer is to have the system totally evacuated and drained by a suitable mechanic, at which time you can then add the proper amounts and type of oil and refrigerant and be assured that no ill results will take place. Your system holds by total amount only 5 ounces of oil and 1.43 pounds of refrig according to the manual. the oil is special and is a Polyalkaline Glycol (PAG) refrigerant oil. PAG refrigerant oil has a slight blue tint. The oil is hydroscopic (absorbs water from the atmosphere).
    One guys opinion, hope it helps. Maybe others have other ideas.
  • pennitoypennitoy Posts: 3
    I have a 2000 Rodeo doing this same thing...did you find out the solution? My Rodeo dealer can't seem to find out the problem nor any other mechanic, and I have already bumped into another vehicle and shot into intersections. Thanks
  • hikick1hikick1 Posts: 39
    I finally found that harness. I will clarify the book description in case anyone else wishes to perform this proceedure. The harness is located as a direct connection from the ecu(brainbox)..(located on the wall just past the driver door. You may have to remove a small panel and pull back the carpet to see the connector and ecu. You will be looking at the front of the harness. Flip to back of the black harness to see a picture like in the diagram. My 92 is equipped with two different set of terminals for diagnosis. This was not mentioned in the repair book. One set is>>>: It has the 2.3L style "plug and play" connectors. Two wires are taped together. They are blue and white. Plug them together. Turn the ignition to where dash lights up but DO NOT TURN ON ENGINE. The dash lights will flash three times by three times (9 times)...before beginning diagnostic proceeedure. THE OTHER WAY>>>>The aldl black terminal as described in the manual..Put a paper clip into the two terminals A&B(upper right pins). One end of the paper clip in A and the other end into B. Turn on ignition but do not turn on motor. The dash will flash then give codes if there are any. Need codes? just e-mail.....need photos? Just email. This is simple and can save lots of time and money...

    Hikick1
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