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Isuzu Rodeo



  • elticoeltico Posts: 1
    I just got a Isuzu 99 4 cyl. 5 speed manual trans-mission. While I'm driving a light goes off and on at the instrument panel it shows "U/S" What's the meaning of it? I don't have a user's manual.
  • 97rodeo97rodeo Posts: 12
    I have a 97 rodeo with 205K.
    This occurance has happened once before, but seemed to fix itself. It happened again yesterday, dont know what it will do today.
    Heres what happens;
    Driving down the highway with the cruise control on, approach an incline (hill). Starting up the hill, the cruise works at keeping the same speed. Suddenly however the engine starts over revving, under revving and so on and naturally the tranny is trying to keep up with this. Not a good feeling. I take the cruise off and feather the gas pedal to smooth things out. Once I am back in town driving, from a stop, I accelerate and the same thing happens. The tach jumps up about 500 RPM and then back down again, over and over. My speed slowly increases, but can't stay constant on the pedal to accelerate.
    The first time this after happened, I after the fact changed the fuel filter, but it had already stopped doing this "thing".
    I haven't got a clue!
    I read through the forum until about page 58 and wasn't finding this occurance per se.
    My Rodeo has never had any major problems. It keeps on plugging away and I love it.
  • jbkennedyjbkennedy Posts: 70
    My wife's CEL comes on intermittently on her 2001 Rodeo with 44K. She says it will come on when she is accelerating I have checked all the the fluid levels and the gas cap. My nearest dealer is over 20 miles away.

    Any ideas?
  • r0de099r0de099 Posts: 35
    I just notice that i have a couple of small leaks
    under my car and it looks like anti freeze what do you guys think would that be?Maybe you guys can give an idea.THANX....
  • makayemakaye Posts: 81
    With an automatic transmission, a possible culprit is the torque converter or lock-up feature. If you do the same thing in 3rd gear instead of OD, does the hunting occur? When accelerating from a stop, if you manually run through the gears, does this happen? I would place my bets on the torque converter or the lock-up solenoid.
  • df2000df2000 Posts: 60
    U/S - UP SHIFT.
    ECM think you should change your shifting habits. Disregard it.
  • iatechiatech Posts: 1
    I have a problem with my remote, it opens only the driver's side door lock, but will lock all locks. I tried using the key and it will only open the drivers side and not all the locks when I turn the key for the second time. The inside switch on the drivers door locks and opens all the locks. The passenger lock switch will lock all doors, but will not open any of the locks. Any ideas on whats wrong?

  • jbkennedyjbkennedy Posts: 70
    I think that you have to press the unlock button on your remote twice. Pressing it once just unlocks the driver's side only. Pressing the button a second time opens the remaining doors. This is how it is programmed on our 2001 Rodeo.

    Good Luck!
  • Boris2Boris2 Posts: 177
    The lights will only come on when you have your regular lights on. They will go off when you turn on beam lights.

    Installation is pretty much fool proof. Put the brackets under the bumper and screw the lamp assembly to them. The pig tails will connect the lamps to the car wiring.

    To remove the switch plug on the dash board, you need to remove the two screws that hold the hood release and the one on the bottom right corner. Then, pull the weather strip out and remove the bottom pannel.

    I just finished the installation on my Rodeo and the memories are still fresh :-)
  • mdocodmdocod Posts: 1
    Bought my 1995 isuzu rodeo about 9 months ago (~6/04) with 144,500 miles. Condition looked nice and I had the chance to see the condition the owners traded into the dealer and drive it before it went through cleaning/inspection etc. The vehicle had nice 16" allow wheels and nearly brand-spankin new dunlop radial rover xt tires. This is the V6 model with manual tranny, nicely loaded. very few minor things wrong with this vehicle upon purchase.

    The dealer was asking $3900, plus $400 dealer fees, plus tax.

    I offered them $2700 out the door and they took it.

    Of those minor things wrong, 1 of them was an outer CV boot. I let this slide on word from a friend that I could buy a quickboot repair kit and take care of it myself.

    <<<I've read some posts about expensive boot replacements... to help those folks out with outer CV boot problems, get yourself a few bottles of brake cleaner, prop up on jack stands, remove wheel, rip off the old boot, clean all the old grease and dirt out of the CV with the break cleaner, install a "quickboot" repair kit, I found that Pepboys had some that for my rodeo. They are slitted and do not require the removal of the CV shaft to install. you can do this yourself in ~1hour for about $20-30>>>

    The week after I bought it, I drove it on a 3,000 mile road trip cross country to visit family, there and back, all things went very smoothly and I could not have been happier.

    Did some 4-wheeling with it this last summer, seems to handle itself offroad as well or better than many other stock SUVs. very happy there.

    Then, a little over 150k, the infamous valvetrain clicking began. This was very discouraging. Took it to a good mechanic I know, he wasn't suprised at all and I would soon learn that this is common for these enguines. My "good" mechanic said to keep changing the oil and I would be lucky to get another 10k out of it before it needs to be rebuilt.

    Well, I'm sure some of you out there have had a look at the rebuild and part costs for these enguines, not to mention how hard it is to get ahold of the parts for them to do any DIY enguine projects. The hydrolic lifter that is the culprit for the noise, is a little piece of metal, a shim about the size of a .45 bullet. From isuzu they cost about $20 each, that's $480 for a full set. pretty nasty. Isuzu has a somewhat poor enguine design with no roller anything in the valve train that is prone to these problems.

    I wasn't willing or able to have the enguine replaced or rebuilt so soon, So I've been on a search for oils, oils stabilizers, oil treatments, cleaners, etc etc. Trying different weights of oil, 5W-50, 10W-30, 10W-40, 10W-50, 15W-50, synthetics, high milage formulas, blends, STP, marvel mystery, rislone, MOA, etc etc.

    162,000 miles was my last change, (i'll be doing another one tomaro for my ~165,000 change). I started this set of oil off as usual with a 99% multipass efficiancy filter from fram, this time I tried 10W-40 Mobil high mileage synthetic blend. I should point out that each oil change since the tick has began, has been the onset of a noticably louder time in this little enguines life, seems that the detergents in the new oil clean away varnish that helps bolster up warn out parts. hence- newer oil is both helping and hendering the problem. The mobil brand was no better or worse it seemed. To further suggest that the cleaning action was actually hurting the senario- I tried a karoseen flush using a karoseen based flush. (for use at drain time), after using this, the clicking got much louder.

    I loose about 1 quart per 1500 miles since I bought the thing, this isn't suprising given the age of the enguine, it's bound to have some consumption. About 700 miles into my last oil change, (about 0.5quart low) I decided to try adding some oil treatment. This time it would be "Enguine-Restore,".. comes in a silver/black/blue can in different sizes for different sized enguines... (though I think the 8 cylinder size would be fine in the isuzu, since the oil capacity is nearly as much as many small-blocks) This stuff is a blueish milky looking substance that looks like it would never belong in your oil. However, the results were astonishing. The clicking was hardly noticable within 5 minuts of driving, and the very next morning, when those "cold-morning-CLICKS" are usually the worst on these enguines was completally silent. Sounded like this enguine was bought yesterday. If you are having this clicking problem, try enguine restore for awhile. I doubt it will make any enguine last forever, but It might just buy these old enguines another 20-40k before they actually need replacing. I should also note, that my oild consumption dropped slightly.

    I should point out, that towards the end of this change, the clicking has returned a bit, but is still significantly quieter than it has been for the last 12K or so. tomaro i'm going to use the larger size can combined with a heavier oil with less detergents. I'll try to post some results in another 3k.

    Try enguine restore before rebuild/replacing these things.
  • duncan21duncan21 Posts: 1
    I have a 1995 honda passport 2 wd with about 100000 miles. it is in pretty good condition and been having trouble with acceleration on the hwy. I have taken it to about 3 mechanics and have spent over 2500 trying to fix it. The mechanics cannot seem to locate the problem or give me a direct answer to my problem. the just keep telling me to bring it in and they will check it. and i get the vehicle back doing the same thing. what happens is i am on the hwy and when i reach around 50-60 mph i let up on the gas and my RPM"s go below the 2 on the RPM odometer and after that i have poor acceleration it hesitates really bad and i have to push the gas pedal alot to get up to speed. i did some research and i think it might be oxygen sensor but i dont know i just dont want to put anymore money into it. If anyone has experienced what i am going thru or have any suggestions please help me.
  • bigmax13bigmax13 Posts: 1
    This is the second time this has happened. The first time after my husband drove the vehicle for a while keeping his left foot on the brake and the right foot on the gas when he came to a stop the car continued to run and after about 3 mile of this the problem corrected it self. Tonight after the vehicle started up fine, while driving home every time I went to slow down, the start spudder and finally stalled. This time when it stalled at first would not start idle at all, and then after I let it sit for a while it started, and idled for about 4 minutes. Also during this time I could be it in reverse and place it in 3rd with my foot on the gas or in neutral and the vehicle would idle. During 5 o'clock traffic I opted to have the vehicle towed home. The towed truck drive had this exact model and problem and suggested that it was the fuel pump. (Also my 81 year neighbor who came and met me said the same thing.) Any suggestions or has anyone else experienced this?
  • elgruelgru Posts: 2
    I just purchased a 97 Passport and the the check engine light stays on. I hooked up my code reader and the code is P1406. Any ideas on this code, it isn't listed in Haynes. Thanks
  • anthony2nanthony2n Posts: 48
    The p1406 code indicates an EGR valve problem. Before replacing the valve remove it and clean it with carb cleaner. These valves get fouled up over time. Most of the time cleaning fixes this problem.
  • anthony2nanthony2n Posts: 48
    Your problem may be an IAC (idle air control) solenoid problem. But, there are many possible causes including intake manifold gasket leak or exhaust restriction. The point here is that your first step needs to be finding a reputable mechanic that knows these vehicles. People say that dealerships are overpriced, but spending 2500 bucks with no end to the problem can't be much better.
  • pha_roahpha_roah Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 V6 Rodeo.
    I just had the emissions inspection for the first time since buying the car 3 years ago.
    The results seem excellent except for the Carbon Monoxide reading which did pass the test, but is double the average emission for vehicles in this class. Does anyone else have the same obvservation? is this normal for Rodeo's? or could something be wrong with mine?
    Thanks in advance
  • nj2miaminj2miami Posts: 3
    2nd gear has begun to grind whenever I am over around 1800rpm from 1st gear and anytime I downshift from a higher gear.

    Put in a rebuilt tranny and changed the master cylinder.

    Any ideas why this is still happening?

  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    or could something be wrong with mine?

    If your CO reading differs significantly from other Rodeos then you might have a problem with the catalytic convertor.

    tidester, host
  • anthony2nanthony2n Posts: 48
    CO can also be high if the car was not driven long enough before the smog test to allow for the catalytic convertor to reach optimal temperature.
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    That's true but I assumed (possibly incorrectly) that one drives to the testing location and does not have to wait long for the test to be conducted. Perhaps the original poster will elaborate.

    tidester, host
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