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Jaguar XJ Series Engine questions and issues

tedmantedman Posts: 1
edited October 24 in Jaguar
I purchased a 99 XJ8L with a remanufactured engine at 54k miles in 2003. My CHECK ENGINE LIGHT came on @72k in 2007 so I went to my mechanic who worked for Mercedes-Benz. He has a side business. He said I needed 4 sensors @1600 and an Air Flow Meter @ 260.00. The job was done but the C.E.L. stayed on. I took it to the dealership. The service man said that my air filter housing was cracked along with a hose and minor wirirng of 307 dollars. He called me and said everything is ok and to pick it up after he test drives it 5 or 10 miles. It was driven 18 miles. The service man called me and said I would need another engine. I still owe on vehicle. Is it worth the money to fix or should I suck it up and take lost? Is there reliable data on these engines?Are there legal avenues to pursue? The car was doing fine before I took it in.
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Comments

  • Sure doesn't pass the smell test. The was a period of time when XJ8's had a problem with NiCad linings on their cylinder walls. I don't know if the problem stretched into 99 or not. There is plenty of info about the issue ont the web. Certainly, you don't run less than 20,000 miles and need to replace the engine each time. I have a 1998 Jag XJ8 that I purchased with 72,000 miles. It now has 203,000 miles; doesn't use a drop of oil; and runs like a top. If somebody didn't satisfy my inquiries, I think I would look into legal avenues to approach.
  • I wouldn't buy a pre 2000 XJ Jaguar. They could have a Nicasil problems in the engine. If it has this problem you need to replace the engine(!!). Check the VIN # to have the last five characters beginning with A_ _ _ _(the A is important). Those cars with A in the VIN # have steel cylinder walls not like the pre 2000 once(cylinders bored out from the aluminum block and coated with Nicasil). To make sure that you don't have this problem you should take the car to a shop where they can make a cylinder leak down test.
  • kwrpkwrp Posts: 3
    I discovered an oil and white pasty leak under the front part of the engine. Any idea what causes this and how to fix it?
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,341
    Check for leaks in the transmission cooler line. Often tranny coolers have a small radiator mounted in front of the engine radiator and tranny fluid is cooled by it.

    Another possibility is the need to replace one or both of the main radiator hoses due to corruption over time.
  • kwrpkwrp Posts: 3
    Thanks for the response, I took it to my mechanic and they couldn't find an oil leak. But had to top of the trans fluid. I'll definitely keep your comments in mind as I start out this driving season.
  • eshazeeshaze Posts: 1
    Hi there i've got a 96 XJR, I started it 6months ago with no problems it used to be a daily driver however since moving abroad I haven't started it for 6 months. After coming back into the UK I knew that the battery would need replacing so I bought a new one, I've turned it over and tried to start it and it doesn't fire what so ever, what could have happened in the time that it was standing?? any help greatly accepted thankyou Sam
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,341
    Perhaps there wasn't enough fuel stabilizer in the petrol tank while in storage. For ignition you need fire and fuel. Your battery supplies the fire so I question the quality of the fuel.
  • kwrpkwrp Posts: 3
    I can tell you what happened to my '94 XJ12. I bought a new battery and discovered that the starter wires had corroded sp? and had new ones replaced. It starts every time.
  • lzolidislzolidis Posts: 6
    The ASC not available and TRAC not available lights came on when I was driving last week, triggering "Failsafe Engine Mode" as an immediate response. The dealership service center tells me the car needs a new throttle body assembly at a cost of $1550. They looked at the exact same problem 8 months ago and replaced a module (for $1700). Should the throttle body issue have been caught on the first visit? Since the dealer says the current problem is "new," it falls outside the 12-month guarantee of their work and I'll be out both for the repair and the rental car.
  • First off, I apologize for not posting this in the correct spot - as my user name indicates, I truly don't have a clue about any of this. My ex-husband left me with a 1985 XJ-6 that he had put a 350 chevy engine in. I know that at one time he had it running and drove it off and on, but the last I knew he said it needed a starter and had an oil leak. It's really in decent shape - white with blue leather interior. Can someone give me an idea of what I could get for it if I sold it as is? I really need to get it out of the shop but have no idea what to ask for it. Thanks for any help you can give me.
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,341
    Another division of Edmunds is their True Value Appraisal feature. Locate it and fill in the blanks. It considers many factors including location.

    There were quite a few Jags converted to the 350 Chevy engine in and around the Portland, OR area and the shop charged $1,000 for the conversion.

    Repair the starter problem, fix the oil leak, and have it detailed before putting it up for sale. (you never get a 2nd chance at a 1st impression) ;)
  • I own a 1991 XJS with the 5.3 V12 with 69,000 miles and everytime I take it out, after about an hour or hour and 1/2 the oil presure will drop to 25lbs, 15lbs then finally it will just die. It is very hard to re-start and shows no oil presure as I crank it. Sometimes won't start until the engine is completely cooled down.

    Does anyone have any idea what this might be? Oil looks clean, warms up to just slightly above the "N" on the temp gage.

    Lost in Charlotte,NC
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,684
    Well for one thing Jaguar V-12 oil pressure sensors and gauges are notorious for giving faulty readings. So you might not have low oil pressure at all. So have that checked.

    Also, you MUST use 20W50 oil. If you have lighter oil, you will lose oil pressure in this engine

    As for hard starting, this may be a different problem, with the ignition sensors for the flywheel rpm and the crankshaft sensors. They fail with age, as they heat up.

    there are also sensors for engine temperature that will shut the engine down if the sensor (right or wrong) "thinks" the engine is overheating.

    These are all kind of typical Jaguar V-12 issues. You need to have these things diagnosed one by one.

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  • Anyone know of motion sickness problem due to air suspension? and what can be done. thanks
  • gmcsweyngmcsweyn Posts: 1
    I have a 1992 Jaguar XJ6 and the heater motor quit running, not sure if the fuse has blown, not able to find the fuse box and is there a replacement blower motor available.
  • i have a 1996 jaguar xj6. the problem is the oil switch gauge keep going down to empty. i have to punch the gas pedel to make it move back to the full area reading. what causes this. and what must i do to fix it? any help would be appreicated.
  • i think some of the fuses are located in the trunk .
  • I purchased a 1998 carnival red xjr 48000k in 2003. I adored this car and the many extras I added for a xjr different from the rest. 18 inch jag 5 spoke replaced the center caps red to match the car. Purchased 4 more red centercaps peeled off the brackets an installed on every seat in the back rest 4 inch tv where the sunglass holder was and a system without changing any stock items no subs in the trunk 1 behind drivers seat just for anice touch of bass. alot moreinvested tolist in changed low beam, high beam, fog and parking to blue lights looks mean and serious head turner. this my 3rd jag i had a 91 xj6 and a 95 xj6 and might consider a 04 xjr
  • Help. I also have a 1991 XJS v12 mine also loses oil pressure after it gets up to normal operating temp. not going down the road at say 55mph but if i slow down to 30 or so mph it drops to below 25 lbs at a stop sign or stop light it falls to 0 then as i get moving again it comes back up. The temp gauge says normal operating temp. althought the engine seems to be hotter than normal. It does not die or its not hard to start at all. My question is rather than pays a dealership alot of money to tell me nothing may or may not be wrong with my engine i would rather just install a set of after market temp, and oil pressure gauges so i can be sure of my oil pressure and engine temp. can anyone tell me where the oil pressure and engine temp sending units are so i can disconnect them and install the after market gauges. thank you for any info. you can help me with
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,684
    The gauge must be inaccurate. If your oil pressure was actually zero, you would certainly be the first to know about it.

    Are you using an OEM filter and the proper weight oil?

    My books don't go back that far to locate your oil sender but surely the person who works on your car would tell you?

    OH WAIT! I see a diagram. It looks like it is between the V of the engine, up front, and there's a long hose arching over it. It's a small round cylinder with a wire attached to it that screw in.

    The book says:

    12 cylinder:
    Open the bonnet.
    Disconnect the battery earth lead.
    Disconnect the rubber boot and the transmitter feed wire.
    Unscrew and remove the transmitter
    Fit and tighten the new transmitter.
    Reconnectthe transmitter feed wire and the rubber boot.
    Reconnect the battery earth lead.
    Close the bonnet.

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  • thank you mr. shiftright that should help, and yes i am using the right oil 20 w 50 not sure what an OEM filter is though I did use and after market filter from the local parts store not sure its the filter though had the same problem before and after the oil change. now not sure if i should replace the old sending unit to see if that cures the problem or go ahead and istall an after market oil pressure guage. seems to be alot of problems with jag. gauges not the only one here that seems to have that problem. anyway thank you for your info. nice to have folks who care.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,684
    Well that sending unit is over $100, so you might not want to be guessing. At the very least, I'd be more inclined to pay a mechanic $100 to screw in an accurate mechanical gauge and tell you what's what for SURE. The aftermarket gauges aren't very attractive, after all, hanging like that under your dash.

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  • british_roverbritish_rover Posts: 8,476
    Depending on how good the parts stores are in your area you might be able to borrow/rent/lease a mechanical gauge from them.
  • snowboysnowboy Posts: 1
    so was it the throttle body? or something else
  • kconklinkconklin Posts: 2
    I own a 2001 Jaguar XJR. Every once in a while I have the same problem. I take it to my dealership and they find that the gear-shift cable requires adjustment. I'm not a certified mechanic, but I understand cars quite well, and this makes sense for my particular problem. It's never needed replacement, just a slight tweak here and there, and it goes away for a while. This has happened three times in four. I hope this helps.
  • kconklinkconklin Posts: 2
    My 2001 XJR, 97kmi, is overheating. I can stay at idle all day long with no problem, but as soon as I take it around the neigborhood for five minutes the needle hits the red. I don't have to exceed 30mph at 3k rpm to duplicate the malfunction. Any ideas?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,684
    I would guess a coolant circulation problem rather than an air circulation problem, so it's not the cooling fans, etc but rather a restriction in flow or inadequate circulation. So, clogged radiator, bad thermostat, bad water pump or perhaps a leaking head gasket as the worst case scenario.

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  • djagmandjagman Posts: 5
    the radiator is low in the vehile .they are prone to hitting parking stops and if you drove afterwards you might not notice the engine siezing.do you have insurance?and mbz is not jaguar...
  • brit644brit644 Posts: 1
    Have been very fortunate in never having had problemswith my beautiful Jag. However this weekend it just slowly died at a traffic light. Maneged to limp the 300 yds home. When I power up the revs go to 2k revs in park with no accelerator use, then slowly..on its own drops until it stalls. It will start again but same process, changed the fuel filter figuring fuel problem [the fuel coming from inlet side of filter was extremly brown/rusty] I also noticed that on occassion the pedal needs a tap or two to take from tickover, thought this may be throttle linkage etc etc sticking but wouldnt explain the stalling. I have a fear its electrical..as most posts on hear appear so. Once in ablue moon the 'trac-off' comes on but not while driving, a switch off and back on solves this.
    Have just completed 100k miles so not too many for this year.
  • well if it's an 85 then the chevy engine scores you major reliability points
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