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Nissan Pathfinder

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Comments

  • pt4x4pt4x4 Posts: 2
    lofquist, you previously mentioned that the Canadian Pathfinders are identical or better equipped than the U.S. counterpart. I was on Nissan's Canadian web page and it displayed a picture of the LE pathfinder shown with the "U.S. roof rack" What is the Canadian roof rack on the LE? It implies that the Canadian roof rack on the LE is probably the SE roofrack. Thanks for any insight.
  • lofquistlofquist Posts: 281
    pt4x4,
    The roofrack on the Canadian LE and the US LE are just about the same. The cross rails on the Canadian one are slightly wider (front to back - maybe 1/2"). You almost have to have them side-by-side to see the difference. Also the side mounts are smooth without the big knob and they have a locking feature using a tamper-proof hex bit. All in all, you'd barely notice the difference, but they feel more strudy and don't seem to make as much wind noise.

    The Canadian SE has the same roofrack as the LE (like it was for 2001), not the "unusual" Xterra-like rack the 2002 US model has.

    -Jon
  • woodyr1woodyr1 Posts: 142
    I live in a snowbelt of British Columbia, complete with many hills and valleys. I have LSD as standard on my 2001 Pathfinder, and found that the Bridgestone Dueler HT's were not adequate for this past winter. I purchased 4 Winter Dueler's by Bridgestone and am very impressed with traction and stopping ability.

    Regarding the roofrack, I have removed the factory unit and installed clips on the rails to fit my Yakima equipment, which I find much more sturdy than the plastic roof rack units which Nissan Canada supplies. I have the Yakima fairing, which seems to cut down on the wind effect.
  • pathstarpathstar Posts: 201
    Our wonderful govt. is protecting us - the Canadian roofrack is allegedly stronger than the US one. As Iofquist says, it uses "security" allen bolts (pin in centre) to secure the rails - and they give us the tool as well. I don't have the documents here at work, but I think it's rated at 80 lbs vs 50 lbs for the US one.
  • It also has the handy "moose carrier" attachment, not available in the US
  • Moose carrier - LOL :)

    I use my 4WD almost daily because I live at the bottom of a gravel hill. I could probably NOT use and it get out with a lot of slippage, but my theory is: it's there, why not use it? The other day the ground was wet. I was on cement with some gravel on it, had it in 4WDH (I have a shift on the fly, not AWD) and it was having trouble getting traction, smoke was coming from somewhere and there was a acrid smell. I'm HOPING it was just my tire rubber. I'm taking it to the dealer next week because I have 34K on it and I want a good looking over before the warranty expires. Any comments from the gang on if I could have done something bad to the car that they need to check?
  • xplorx4xplorx4 Posts: 621
    I will be helping some relatives move at the end of this month, and they need to tow their truck. They have an 88 4x4 5-speed Pathfinder. Is there anything special that needs to be done to safely tow this behind a moving van?

    I've checked various web sites about towing with a tow dolly, and their information seems to conflict. The sites claim that transmission damage (usually to automatics) can occur if rear-wheel-drive vehicles are towed improperly. Some say that the driveshaft has to be disconnected, some say it's OK if you just shift the 4x4 t-case into "N".

    I thought that the drivelines are fully disconnected from the engine/tranny if the t-case is in 'N'. How can transmission or t-case damage result under these cirumstances?

    Also, they're on a tight budget so I don't think they can afford the full car carrier, and they'd prefer not to have to climb under the truck to disconnect the driveshaft.

    Does anyone have any recommendations on this? Thanks!
  • Since I didn't have another valentine to spend it with I spent tonight hardwiring my Valentine One radar detector. It was so simple I wish I'd done it months ago.
    Here's the deal. Wire the detector to the roof console where the compass/thermometer is located. Removing the roof console could not be easier. Open the sunglasses case, remove the single phillips head screw and that is it. There are four clips, one in each corner - pull at each straight down. I used a flat head screw driver with some duct tape on it to avoid scratching anything to pry it down, but it comes off pretty easily.
    Once inside there 3 wiring harneses. The furthest one back is flat, has 8 pins and goes to the compass. Disconnect it and peel back some of the tape. On the car side of the connector pin 7 is green with silver and a red stripe. This is your POWER. Pin 2 wire is black. This is your GROUND. Splice into these. Pop everything back together and drink a beer. 20 minute job max.

    OD.

    PS. Lofquist, can't believe you're still at it!
  • I did basically the same thing. But I spliced into the wires for the lights. So, unless the detector has been turned off, it stays on for 8 minutes after I get out of the truck. It also comes on as soon as the door is opened if the truck has been parked for longer than 8 minutes.
  • The '01 manual says not to tow with the transfer case in neutral. On the other hand I had a Ford Ranger pickup that the owner's manual said just the opposite, it was OK to tow with the rear wheels on the ground with the transfer case in neutral. The tow dolly people are probably just covering their butts against law suits.

    They could tow with the trucks rear wheels on the tow dolly as long as its not in 4WD.
  • Im interested in a Canadian Purchase but concerned about how easy it would be to change the odometer from metric to US. For those whove imported vehicle back into the US - will a US dealer replace the unit? Has anyone done this in California and will this affect the title of the vehicle. Thanks.
  • I bought my 02' LE 2 weeks ago from Richmond Nissan in Vancouver. Jon L. has all the details on it. All in all is was VERY easy. I was a bit stressed about it at first but after many many emails with Jon I was ready to dive in. The biggest problem for me was A) getting a loan for the car because it was being bought in Canada. B) getting the funds converted to Canadian. there are very few lenders that will do this.

    I would recommend you not tell the bank that you are buying it in Canada and just tell them the name of the dealership. If I had not told my bank what I was doing they would have never known. You might be able to make special provisions with the dealer to allow you to bring US funds but make sure you check first.

    I am in Seattle and registering it is no big deal, though after I bought it I went on vacation and need to go down and do it :-) I have spoken with a person that live about 10min from me, he bought the same PF as I have and he says it was pretty easy.

    If you have any questions feel free to email me. I am sure Jon has been in contact with you but if you have any other specific questions let me know.

    Bryan
    no_spam_bryanw@speakeasy.net (remove"no_spam_")
  • lofquistlofquist Posts: 281
    Paul,
    I'll add one more comment to Byran's nice post. There are a number of speedometer places in the Seattle area that specialize in conversions (one place is even named "Kilometers to Miles"). What some Calif people do is just stop at one on the way through and get it done. Then it would be in miles before you even registered it at home.
    -Jon
  • With a 1 hr drive up 495 in MA in the am, I need to install one in the 01 Pathy. It sounds like the hard wiring is not too difficult, but looking at the console(Temp Gauge,compass,etc) I'm not sure where to mount the detector as I dont really see a flat surface.Any pictures?
    Where did you put yours? And what type?Valentine, Escort,-which is the best?
    Thanks,
    db in RI
  • xplorx4xplorx4 Posts: 621
    Most detectors come with windshield mounting kits that use suction cups. If you mount the detector near the compass/temp gauge where you can also obtain 12v power for hardwiring, then this makes the most sense.
  • smokey75smokey75 Posts: 434
    Hey, I have a 2001 PF & was wondering if any one else has had these problems:
    1) My brakes are pulsating like I need the rotors turned... with only 16000 miles on it.
    2) I've rotated my tires twice & both times I noticed a lot of tire wear on the outer edges of the fronts. I'm hoping I just need the camber adjusted or they're toe'd in too much. I just hope the dealership doesn't tell me they all do that.

    Also, something that surprised me... I was checking the transfer case fluid for the first time (15,000 mile maint.) & when I removed the fill plug fluid ran out until it dropped to that level. Dealership says they overfill them at the factory & it's nothing to worry about. Just let it drain to the fill plug. Thought you might want to know. Thanks...
  • Funny thing happened today at the dealer. I stopped in for the 15K oil change and tire rotation. I asked the service woman writing up the order to make sure they will lubricate the propeller shaft. As the Service Manager walking by overheard this he said yes they do it as part of the oil change/lube. Good. Then he adds that it is time to change out the fluid in the differential, which is needed for vehicles with limited slip differentials (LSD). I told him this PF did not have LSD, and he said all of them do. I said no, that was an option I didn't get and to not worry about changing out the fluid. I wonder how many PF owners have paid for this not knowing otherwise?
  • meca2meca2 Posts: 284
    Yes the PF brake seem to be less than adequate.
    Several the last year have had the rotors turned.
    Just be sure and have them install new pads if you
    have the rotors turned. There is something about
    turning them on the vehicle?
    The caster and camber is not adjustable. Sounds
    like your PF has to much toe-end. I had my PF
    in for adjustment before it had 6k on it.
  • xplor- thanks for that- I wasnt sure if there was any other alternatives to mounting besides the standard suction cups.
    Anyone want to chime in on brand of radar and why?
    Thanks,
    dean
  • dbenjamin1, I have always sided with BEL, but I think their remote unit did not work well. If $$ is no issue, go with Valentine, as I have not heard a bad review on them. I also have an old unit from Radio Shack that has had no problem for 10 years. The only new twist in south Jersey is that I have picked up more laser warnings, especially going over the bridges into Philly. Even around my neighborhood, I have noticed more laser and K and Ka bands, while X is diminishing. I have my BEL suctioned to the front lower windshield, and plugged into the cig lighter. Even though it is somewhat blocked by the resting wipers, the range has not suffered.
  • bgritzbgritz Posts: 139
    Hey all,
    Does anyone know the part number for the '01 Pathy oil filter? I stopped to pick up one yesterday, and it's about as big as a 6 oz. beer can. All the exterior packaging mentions numerous Sentra models, but not the Pathy.
    I asked the parts guy and he said that he wasn't sure if it was that filter or not, some have a different size for '01. Sounds questionable. Thanks in advance for any help
    Gritz
  • My pathy's brakes are pulsing as well (60km/hr to 0km/hr in about 10 seconds) you can feel the pulsing of the brakes - sounds like the rotors are warped or ?? Anyone else with this problem.
    By the way there is only 12,000km on the vehicle. Will I have to pay for this to be repaired (turned etc.?)
  • I don't know why you would buy any other radar detector than the Valentine One. It has saved my a$$ countless times. Nothing else even comes close. You're fooling yourself if you think you can find a better radar detector. No, it's not perfect - it falses like every other detector but with a little practice it's very easy to tell what's real. Car and Driver hadn't reviewed detectors in 5 years until this month. 5 years ago the V1 dominated the rankings. Guess what happened this time? Same. V1 destroyed BEL and everyone else. See for yourself: http://www.caranddriver.com/xp/Caranddriver/features/2002/february/200202_feature_detectors.xml

    or do a search on CNET. People are fanatical about this detector. And it comes with a hardwire kit that makes the job very simple (especially if you follow the guidlines I posted before).

    OD.
  • yoeddyyoeddy Posts: 46
    I had to have my rotors resurfaced at around 15k miles on my '01 QX4 and it was done under warranty. Not sure about Nissan. I'm about to bring it in for the 30k service and I'm having the problem again. This time, I might see if I can get the brake pads changed.
  • bgritzbgritz Posts: 139
    Note to all automatic Pathy owners.
    The self-adjusting rear drum brakes only self-adjust when the vehicle is stopped and the E-brake is applied. If you are only placing it in P, and not setting the E-brake, then the rear drums might not be adjusted and therefor less effective than they are supposed to be.
    If so, the front rotors would be handling a dis-proportionate amount of the force required to stop, thus heating them up hotter,and more quickly than normal, causing them to warp.
    Another factor is lug nuts. Lug nuts that are tightened to tightly can cause warpage of the rotors as it can flex the assembly.
    Since I purcased a torque wrench and have used it when tightening down my wheels, 90% of my pulsing has disappeared. ( the other 10% is probably from a previous incident involving someone cutting me off while I was towing a trailer resulting in hot rotors)
    We have almost 40k on our '01 SE, and have VERY minimal pulsing, and ONLY if I have accidently heated them up a bit coming out of the mtns.
    ;-)
    gritz
  • smokey75smokey75 Posts: 434
    Hey BGRITZ... is this something you can do every once in a while? Or do you need to set the parking brake every time? I've always used an impact wrench (w/ the proper torque stick to bring the force down) but I'm still getting warping at only 15,000 miles.
  • I tried to get the inner door panels off of our 2001 pathfinder last night, got all the door clips released (around outside perimeter of door), removed the screw from the door "handle" (used to pull door closed from inside) and also removed screw from behind other handle (mechanically opens door from inside). There seems to be at least one screw still holding the panel on to the actual door. Does anyone have any guidance for me.

    Thanks
  • Yes the best radar detector are YOUR TWO EYES.

    But as an aid on the road, you just can not go wrong with VALENTINE ONE. For it is worth every cent.

    Greetings to you all.
    full5.
  • Davie- thanks for the tip- I've heard about Valentine and the great praises that come from it. Sounds like you're a bit fanatical about it too ;)
    Pond- you're absolutely correct- eyes are the best, along with driving the speed limit. But, sometimes, the ride is so nice in the pathy, i dont notice that I'm creeping close to 75..and the fact that the po-po here use an assortment of unmarked vehicles.
    Thanks to you all for the tip. Valentine it is.
    db
  • bgritzbgritz Posts: 139
    Smokey,
    Since we have the 5-speed, ours (E-brake) gets pulled every time we exit the Pathy. My best guestimate is that if your set it a couple times (even @ one stop) it would self-adjust. I don't know this for sure, but it would make sense from a mechanical aspect.
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