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Nissan Pathfinder

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  • Ahh...a topic I've obsessed over. dlundgren, I've not heard of a clear draft shield for the 02 SE. Removing it may be the closest option.

    As for accessories for the rack, they are WAY limited, but do exist. Both Thule and Yakima make different options. It pays to shop around.

    -a.
  • xplorx4xplorx4 Posts: 621
    You guys with the SE roof rack and wind deflector should take a look at this site to see what an Xterra owner did to his rack to make the deflector translucent.

    http://www.xterra4x4.com/mods/Owners/Thors/seethrough.html

    Here's another link :
    http://ultra.litpixel.com:85/pictures/Truck_Tour/roof_gadgets.html
  • dzartmandzartman Posts: 112
    I am having problems with my 4wd.

    it sounds like the hubs are grinding after the car has been put into reverse then into drive. The grinding continues until a series of ugly grinds and then somehow it sounds as if they lock into the correct position, then the grinding sounds stops and I can resume normal driving..

    I have found upon hearing the noise, if I put the car into 4wd the grinding will halt, but then I have to pull over and backup and do the release ritual of getting the car out of 4wd.

    Has anyone experienced this problem and what are the preventive measures to keep this from happening? because I rarely use the 4wd, maybe 3 times a year and I follow all the procedures pertaining to the use of the 4wd. Plus it is an expensive as hell repair and this is the second time this has happened.

    thanks all!
  • xplorx4xplorx4 Posts: 621
    Sounds like your automatic hubs are 'sticking'. Since you use 4WD so infrequently, you should make sure you shift into 4WD at least once a month, even just for a few hundred feet (in a straight line). This will keep the 4WD components lubricated.

    I assume the problem only occurs when you back up a few feet after switching from 4HI to 2WD (to unlock the hubs.)

    Wait a sec, are you sure it's your hubs and not the t-case?
  • pbk77pbk77 Posts: 23
    I have a 2001 Pathfinder SE, anyone know who to replace the In-cabin microfilter? First of all, any idea where it's located? All the help is greatly appreciated.
  • jflashjflash Posts: 45
    pbk77, you can find excellent information on the microfilter at the url below. Just click on "In-Cabin MicroFilter". It will give you part numbet, a schematic and location. If you click on the link "installation instructions" you will see clear diagrams to help you install the filter.

    jack <><

    http://www.courtesyparts.com/R50_tuneup.html
  • jclewjclew Posts: 4
    anyone out there replace their factory bumper (99.5-2002) with an ARB or anything else? Do you have pictures???

    Thanks
  • Trying to decide if I want to step into an older PF as a second vehicle. There are a couple that I have found. ('93 PF, 77K for $6600) & ('95 PF, 68k, $7750). Are there any previous owners out there that can give some insight on these model years? Have any of you owned one before and returned for a newer model? Or should I go after something else like a 4Runner or Blazer/Jimmy. Your help is appreciated.

    Thanks!
  • xplorx4xplorx4 Posts: 621
    A couple people I've met on other discussion boards have installed the ARB sahara bar on their late-model Pathfinders. It's a sweet bumper replacement.

    Do a google search for "Pathfinder Sahara Bar" for more info.
  • brisoupbrisoup Posts: 43
    After months of reading the many helpful post on this site I finally decided to get rid of my Exploder after it broke down on me for a third time.Getting the Pathfinder at $300.00 under invoice and 3.9% financing for 60 months was a deciding factor.Please don't ask me what i got for trade-in with my explorer.I't still hurts to think about it!The 2002 LE is a thousand times better in every way than my 2001 Explorer Sport.One minor nit-pick with the Pathfinder is fuel milege.I am barely getting 13 MPG in mixed driving. The truck has less than 500 miles on it. Does anyone know if fuel milege will improve after the break in period? I have kept the 4WD selector in 2HI since i bought it. I know there has been many debates about using premium fuel.According to the owners manual you should use premium fuel for "optimal performance".But the manual also says you can use any fuel higher than 87 octane. Does anyone think maybe you can use mid grade 89 octane and use premium once every third fill up is a good idea? Thanks for any imput.
  • gkatz1gkatz1 Posts: 296
    If your running 87 octane, that would explain your poor mileage. Stick to the recommended premium and you'll probably see 16 to 20 MPG.
    The engine is designed to run at its best with premium fuel. While you can run 87, performance and mileage will suffer. With the poorer mileage your not saving any money.
  • li_sailorli_sailor Posts: 1,081
    I agree with gkatz1...to avoid knock issues and get better mpg, I would say stick to premium...that's what I do.

    My first few tankfulls netted about 13 mpg...then it quickly jumped to about 17 avg and has stayed there as the engine loosened up.
  • plasmid1plasmid1 Posts: 11
    hi guys,

    i have a 02 pathy LE, i changed the oil to mobil1 synthetic this past weekend. according to the owner's manual, the capacity of the oil pan is 5 and 1/4 Qts. anyway, after the oil change and i followed the intructions from the manual, started the engine and shut it off and waited for more than 10 minutes. at the time, the oil stick shows a little lower than the max so i filled it up with a total of about 5 and 1/4 qts. the thing is that this morning i checked the level again (when cold), there seems to be a overfill (according to the oil stick). i am a little worried to say the least...any suggestions would be more than appreciated??? most importantly, should i get some oil out??? or it should be allright since i only filled out a little over 5 qts...thanks a lot in advance for ur help!!!
  • bnsj5221bnsj5221 Posts: 2
    I was at a Nissan dealership the other day and they were telling me that they had just installed a new style SE roof rack on a new LE at no cost, has anyone seen this done? I am more interested in doing the opposite, taking the SE rack off and putting the LE style on, anyone seen this? I have a QX4 now and like this style rack as my Thule rack works with it(I don't want to spend more for the adapters), and aesthetically it looks better.
  • yoeddyyoeddy Posts: 46
    Reading your post, it sounds like you have 10+ quarts in your Pathy when you should only have five quarts in there. Did you change your oil, draining five quarts out and then refilling with five new quarts of oil? Then start your engine, shut it off and then put in an additional 5 1/4 quarts? Why?

    The oil pan is for collecting oil when the engine is cold. When your engine is running, that oil is then used by the engine.

    If you do have 10+ quarts of oil, drain that sucker fast before you do serious damage to your vehicle.
  • yoeddyyoeddy Posts: 46
    After re-reading your post, it sounds like you were trying to fill-up your pathy based on what the oil pan's capacity. And waiting only ten minutes, won't allow all of the oil in the engine flow down to the oil pan. Also, when you drain the oil pan, you probably are not getting all of the oil out of the vehicle. Thus, you may have put a little more than five quarts in your engine. I wouldn't worry if you think you only have about an extra 1/4 quart.
  • ac6000cwac6000cw Posts: 18
    Does anyone on the board have any experience using any of the after market packages that allow you to hook up your Pathfinder's on board computer to a laptop PC? The Nissan version of this is called Consult II but there are several companies that provide a cable and software to allow the owner to download the information from the computer to a standard PC.
  • highuphighup Posts: 31
    When I got my new 01 LE, I would change the oil (Mobil non-synthetic) and filter every 3k miles and with each change it only took 5 quarts of oil (including the small amount I poured into the filter)to get to the full line on the dipstick. At 12k miles I switched over to Mobil 1 Synthetic. When I did this change, I waited till all the oil drained out and then jacked up the left side of the truck and got the a little bit more out. This is a step I hadn't done before and probably explains why it only took 5 quarts to show full on the stick on my last 3 oil changes. Now it take exactly 5 1/4 quarts for the dipstick to read full when the engine is warm. If I take a reading in the morning the oil level is a little above the full line. Perfectly acceptable. Fyi from the service manual a dry engine (engine overhaul) takes 6.8l or 7 1/4 quarts approximately.
  • plasmid1plasmid1 Posts: 11
    that explains why by filling in 5 1/4 the oil level is above the full line...i guess i have nothing to worry about...thanks a lot, guys!!!
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