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Nissan Pathfinder



  • jiaminjiamin Posts: 556
    I believe the best way is to open the glove box door and see if there is a sticker on it. My QX4 has two stickers, one is for the tire/wheel, and the one in the center (recessed area) is for the micro filter, saying something like "replace it every 30,000 km or 1 year..."
  • pathstar1pathstar1 Posts: 1,015
    If the sticker is not there, look up behind the glove box on the air plenum (plastic ribbed housing). It goes in on the right end of the plenum, as I recall.
  • goose1207goose1207 Posts: 113
    I paid $30 or so for mine at the parts dept at my local dlr. Nissan has a discount coupon on their website for any parts purchases. This is definitely a DIY job. Why pay the dealer so much $$$ ($100+ including the part) for labor? It will take you 15 - 20 minutes max.

    As far as the A/C issues with the '03 PFs, why not just get a used PF then? If I were in the market today, I would get an '01 since that has the VQ35 motor so it is the same car as an '03 other than a redesigned dashboard, 17" alloys (LE only), tire pressure monitor (optional) & VDC (optional as well). Save your $$$; why take the depreciation hit? I would have bought used in 12/00 but I didn't because I was coming out of my lease on a 99.5 PF SE Limited and wanted the 3.5l engine.

    As for the extended warranty question, if you have the vehicle history/service records, and they are clean, there is no need to spend the $$$ on an extended warranty on these cars. If it was an Audi/VW I would definitely say yes since they are known to have reliability issues. The PF has been ranked the best SUV in its class in initial quality the last few years and also just ranked #2 in it's class for long-term reliability (JD Power).
  • garthdgarthd Posts: 2
    2 things I am trying to get fixed:

    1) shrill metallic squeal coming from front end after 15-20min driving, appears once speed is over 40kph

    2) power loss at higher speed/high rpms (ie hills climbs over 70kpm and 3500 RPM). Engine feels like it is choking itself out. Easing up on gas results in power recovery.

    Any thoughts?
  • mchinmchin Posts: 22
    I was checking the battery cell levels last evening. I filled the cells that needed to be filled with distilled water. I started the car this morning and the AT temp, battery and brake light came on. I drove it about a mile and the warning lights would go off and come back on. Has this every happen to anyone? Thanks.
  • xplorx4xplorx4 Posts: 621
    I don't think the warning lights are related to your battery maintenance. The occurrence is likely coincidental.

    If all of those lights turn on at once, it could be a sign of a loose belt. Check the tension and condition of the serpentine belt, which runs your alternator (battery warning lamp), water pump, and engine fan (AT temp warning lamp).

    As for the brake light, check the fluid level in the reservoir. If it's low, the brake warning lamp will glow. The brake fluid level may be low because your front (or rear) brakes may be near the end of their useful life and should be checked.
  • mchinmchin Posts: 22
    Weird how all of a sudden the belt would become loose??
    I know that the brake fluid level is fine. You might be right about the brake pads. They may need to be replaced. Any idea on how much it will cost to replace by the dealer? Is it easy to replace it yourself?

    Thanks for your help xplorx4...
  • xplorx4xplorx4 Posts: 621
    Not sure how much your local dealer quotes for front brake pad replacement. Contact some other local auto service shops for estimates as well. Ask them what they do, besides just replace the pads. Some places will also resurface (aka "turn") the rotors, which is quite a bit more costly. Depending on the mileage on your truck, they may also try to sell you a brake system flush, which may not be a bad idea if your truck has over 60,000 miles.

    If you've got a garage, a floor jack, a lug wrench, a C-clamp and a 14mm socket/ratchet, you can do a "pad slap"- replace the pads without servicing the rotors in less than an hour. It's a relatively simple job, but if you're not handy with tools or are remotely squeamish about working on your car yourself, leave it up to a qualified shop.

    For reference, during the first 110,000 miles, I did nothing more than "pad slaps" (myself) before it was necessary to remove the rotors, which were in need of replacement. I was fortunate enough not to have ever warped my rotors, unlike many other people on this discussion board.

    Also (FYI), rear brakes tend to outlast front brakes by 3 to 1 or 4 to 1. That is, you'll probably replace your front pads 3 or 4 times before you need new rear shoes.
  • dcmikedcmike Posts: 52
    First time poster on this board (usually on the Maxima board) with a question - my sister just bought an 03 LE PF and told me that it was AWD. Is there any labeling outside the vehicle to specify that it is an AWD model? I know that my wife's Highlander clearly states AWD, just wondering if the PF does as well (because of the price, I'm really concerned that the dealership screwed her and gave her a 2WD instead of the 4WD). Thanks for your help...
  • dpphotodpphoto Posts: 1
    I am thinking about buying a 2000 4x4 PF from a dealer. The car is from New York and I live in CA, will I have trouble with the DMV and passing smog. Is the 2000 a good modle year? Thanks
  • jiaminjiamin Posts: 556
    I think 03 PF is almost the same as 02-03 QX4. In 4WD QX4, there is a rotary switch on the lower left center console indicating 2WD, AUTO, 4H and 4L. If it's a 2WD, then this switch is replaced with a coin box. I don't think PF has outside labeling for this.
  • The 2003 Pathfinder LE has both AWD and 4WD.
  • Hello M99,

    I guess we were doomed both ways in our choice between the 2003 Pathfinder and the 2003 4Runner. Both vehicles have been subject to the Lemon Law (see the 4runner board for redfish story).

    Disappointing really.... Gee both vehicles were the leaders of the pack in terms of quality...

    On my side no Check Engine light problem but the front end of my truck was damaged by some sort of sandblasting that might have been done this winter (they put sand on our icy roads here during winter). I went to a couple of windshield and body shop who explained me that sandblasting here was somewht normal due to the conditions but it was not normal on a new vehicle like mine after only 1 winter.... They all agree that this is the results of poor quality parts....

    Quality is less present as car makers are trying to cut costs to stay competitive..

    Anyway, aside from this issue the truck is behaving flawlessly and MPG as sky rocketed with the summer temperatures (best MPG so far: 20.5 US MPG - 90% higway driving) and normal city/highway driving 16 US MPG.

    I finally pulled my boat over the last few weeks and while the PF was powerfull enough to easily handle the load I have to admit that I do not like the feeling of pulling with a unibody. You feel the trailer much more and it makes the backend sway a little. With the 4Runner I could not feel the boat/trailer at all except when braking. I guess that frame-based vehicle are more comfortable for pulling stuff.

    The brakes are powerful but since I braked a bit hard with the boat attached I feel a vibration now when I brake. Thye may have warped a little.... Unfortunate... that did not happen with the 4Runner after 4 years of pulling my boat brake hard once in a while....

    But the handling is great. The PF corners 10 times better (but I haven't tried the X-Reas suspension), almost like a car.

    Anyway it is fun to try different vehicles and develop a taste for particular technologies (frame, brakes, suspensions.)
  • pathfinder13pathfinder13 Posts: 110
    It doesn't have 4wd logo outside the vechile but you can just look at the center dash where you can see round nob like auto, 2wd, 4h and 4l.

    World Traveler: You said when you hit the brake you feel vibration, does that mean it has wraped rotars because I too am feeling some sort of vibration when I hit the break hard. I had no idea it was a wraped rotar. I just have 17000 miles. Will the warranty covered the wraped rotors?
  • twelsh140twelsh140 Posts: 7
    Don't forget when braking hard the anti-locking brake system will cause some feedback. Some people say vibration and some say it feels like a pulsation. In my experience of owning 4 different Pathfinders from 96 to current production I have never had the rotors warp in 45,000 miles of operation. Even when I towed a boat. Remember the LE models have standard anti-locking brakes.
  • xplorx4xplorx4 Posts: 621
    When the ABS activates, it feels like the brake pedal buzzes/hums. You feel a strong, fast vibration.

    Warped rotors is a much slower pulsation, and the steering wheel may even shake back and forth a little.

    (FYI; just so you can tell the difference.)
  • pathfinder13pathfinder13 Posts: 110
    since my steering wheel don't shake. In fact, it kinda feels like pulsation. Thanks guys for some advise. By the way, what causes it?
  • xplorx4xplorx4 Posts: 621
    The ABS system causes the pulsation. The ABS rapidly modulates the brake pressure (from your foot stomping on the brake pedal) to keep the wheels from locking. In loose or slippery conditions, actual brake pressure needn't be very much to induce wheel lockup, which is where ABS truly shines. Basically, the system reacts in such a way that no matter what surface you're on, the wheels aren't supposed to lock up while the truck is moving above 6mph.
  • I can make the difference between ABS and warped rotor, I've had a couple of vehicles equipped with ABS, I know the ABS feeling.

    Since the steering wheel shakes a little I would say that the rotor is actually a little warped but not much. I can mainly feel it when I have to stop a bit harder to stop in time when I misjudged the braking distance for some reasons.

    No big deal really but I think I'll have to fix the brakes before my lease will be over.
  • goose1207goose1207 Posts: 113
    The AWD/4x4/All-Mode model has a lit 4WD diagram within the tach guage. It shows you if the differential is locked (4HI & 4LO) and there is also a green indicator if it's in 4LO. When in All-Mode, all 4 wheels a lit in green. I believe the 2WD model does not have this but like the others said, it would definitely not have a 4WD mode knob just ahead of the shifter/below the radio.

    I would go with a MY2001+ instead of a 2000. The former has the latest 3.5l 240hp VQ motor. The old 3.3l is underpowered (~170hp) for a vehicle this size. I leased a 3.3l before I bought the '01 and it had trouble maintaining speed when going up steep inclines on the highway.
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