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Nissan Pathfinder



  • aigengaaigenga Posts: 14
    I feel the shudder of warped rotors, especially when braking on the highway. At 28,000 miles on my 20001 QX4 it is too soon, but reality is hard. I am thinking of replacing the rotors and found interesting offerings on ebay: &item=7910942643&category=33564

    The question is - does anyone have any experience with secondary market rotors? What do you think?

  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    That must be a rather futuristic version of the QX4 - but I'm not sure why you're the Pathfinder discussion.

    tidester, host
  • canuck3canuck3 Posts: 6
    Hello all:
         I'm looking to buy a PF 04 the Chilkoot edition with an automatic in Canada in the next 2 weeks. Just wonder if anybody especially in Canada have recently bought one. The dealers I called are not willing to take anymore than $1500 off the MSRP of $36200 CDN. I'd thought there would be better deals than that considering it's the end of the production. Any input would be appreciated.
  • aigengaaigenga Posts: 14
    Yeah, the date is a bit ahead of time, but so is the problem. I am on this site because the machines are almost identical and this site is far more active than the QX4 one. The question remains.
  • xplorx4xplorx4 Posts: 621
    I have had good results with aftermarket rotors on my '97 Pathfinder. I purchased a set of cross-drilled rotors from for just a few bucks per rotor more than OEM parts would have cost me. The stopping power is phenomenal.

    Click here for a pic
  • This is interesting. I have actually experimented twice on long distance trips to determine the effect of octane level on my 2001 LE, and in both cases found that Premium gave me more power and better mileage...what I expected and the opposite of what a few of you are finding.

    I remember calculating that the increased cost of premium was almost exactly offset by the improved mileage making it economically indifferent, but the premium grade had the added advantage of more passing and hill-climbing power (very important when travelling on 2-lane highways in the Cdn Rockies between Calgary and Kelowna). I've never tried calculating this for city driving (too much variability I would think).
  • Are you using aftermarket calipers or the stock units? Have you noticed improved resistance to warpage or increased pad wear? Thanks in advance.
  • xplorx4xplorx4 Posts: 621
    Only the brake pads ands rotors are aftermarket. The calipers are stock; I just painted them red. I have noticed no signs of warping (and I tend to drive more aggressively), and not only have my pads lasted longer, but they don't leave as much dust behind either. The pads are Akebono ceramic.
  • I'm sold. I know what my next rotor/brake pad combo is. Thanks.
  • zzr12zzr12 Posts: 18
    I bought my LE in March and got $5,086.00 off. Paid $41,600.00 Retail in Canada is 46,686
  • danpf1danpf1 Posts: 80
    I experienced the same results but was able to increase my MPG by changing over to full synthetics in my 2001 LE. I average 22MPG HWY and 18 City driving. I also use the K/N air filter. I use Royal Purple synthetics for a little over a year now and they work great.
  • Hello,

    I have an 03 Chilkoot, the 04 is called the Chinook with the addition of the power sunroof at no charge and one or two new paint colours. Your price of $36,200 is the same as my PF. My total price with taxes was just over $43,100. I made him an offer of $40,000 on the road and I was out of the dealership in half an hour with a brand new vehicle waiting to be deleverd to me. No hagling, no hassle and no b.s. The difference in price was the "trade in allowance" (NOT the same as trade in value)as I traded in my 13 year old Z-24. This was on a Saturday morning and picked my PF on Tuesday morning and drove it home. Good luck and keep us posted on your pending purchase.

    Also, when turning the key, the ignition beeps four times along with all the check lights coming on. What do these beeps mean and should you wait until they stop before starting the engine, or, can you turn and start right away ?
  • jiaminjiamin Posts: 556
    Sometimes when I was in a real hurry, I started the engine right away. Never had a problem. I don't think owner's manual says we have to wait.
  • bowke28bowke28 Posts: 2,185
    the whole idea behind the manual saying not to "quick-start" your vehicle is to get you to wait 10-15 seconds after you start it before you put it into gear. this short time allows the oil to properly lubricate the entire engine.
  • xplorx4xplorx4 Posts: 621
    When you turn the key, the dashboard lights glow to confirm the lamps aren't burned out. It's like a self-test. The four beeps you hear alert you that you're turning on the ignition with your seat belt unfastened. Note that you'll not hear the beeps if you fasten your seat belt before turning the key. Either way, it's safe to start the engine as soon as you insert the key into the ignition. No need to wait.

    However, as bowke28 stated, it's usually a good idea to wait a few seconds (especially if the truck has been sitting for a few hours) before putting the truck into gear and driving.
  • jiaminjiamin Posts: 556
    I usually wait for at least 30 seconds before putting into "D" and drive away slowly until the temp needle goes up and passes the first division. Then I slowly speed up to normal. I can obviously feel the car drives rougher than at normal temp.
  • andy1961andy1961 Posts: 32
    Anyone have experience with the replacement? Does the shop manual recommend replacing any strut bearings?

    KYB should have a new gas fitment next month according to the tech support person I contacted.
  • pathstar1pathstar1 Posts: 1,015
    Has anyone had long term problems putting on 265/70-16s on 2001 LEs? Looking at Nokian WR SUV. The stock junk is finally wearing out! No more sliding through intersections in winter ;-).
  • xplorx4xplorx4 Posts: 621
    When replacing the struts, I strongly advise replacing the strut bearings as well.

    This photo shows strut bearings that are completely toast. They had only 50,000 miles on them. Relative to the overall labor cost and cost of the struts themselves, the bearings are cheap. If they go bad later (usually indicated by popping noises while turning), you'll have to pay the same cost for labor as a strut replacement.
  • smokey75smokey75 Posts: 434
    I to have had a constant problem with warping rotors on my 2001 PF. The first set was replaced around 15,000 miles under warranty and those have been warped for some time, but I am waiting to replace them until my 60,000 mile maintenance while the front wheel bearings are off for re-packing. I have been researching aftermarket rotors and have come across PowerStop also. It seems as though they only have a cross-drilled rotor for my PF, not a cross-slotted like the one shown in XPLORX4's pic. However, the person I talked to at said he would recommend a cross-drilled anyway. He said the cross-drilled does most of the work as far as heat-dissepation and that the slotted only helps slightly with water removal. He also said that the slots will cause faster pad wear because they act like razor blades on the pad. He recommended using a high quality semi-metallic pad instead of a ceramic because he said the ceramic pads, which cost more usually, don't have as good of performance with cross-drilled rotors. He recommended the Axxis Metal Master pad for low dust & good performance. The best price I've found is at The rotors are $100 a piece there... $20 cheaper a piece than
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