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Nissan Pathfinder



  • danpf1danpf1 Posts: 80
    I use Mobil 1 oil filters and I have used many other brands of oil filters, they all worked just as good, I haven't used an Nissan filter sense the first oil change. I change my oil every 10,000 miles, the trans at 30,000 miles the differentials I will top off when needed, the same for the transfer case. All have synthetics fluids. The only time the transfer and differential get changed is when driving in deep water or mud.
  • danpf1danpf1 Posts: 80
    I have been using synthetics now for about 15 years in all my vehicles, including my Motorhome which has full synthetics and I have never been told that I should not use them. The engines, transmissions, differentials and transfer cases all perform better and run smoother and cooler. No oil leaks, no transfer case failures, no engines failures, no differential failures or leaking seals of any kind. I have only experience positive results from using full synthetics.
  • danpf1danpf1 Posts: 80
    I stopped using Mobil 1 for that reason and it didn't hold up as good as Royal Purple, so I changed to 5w-30 royal purple but I still use their oil filters.
  • scottinkyscottinky Posts: 194
    I am using Mobil Dino oil. Drive clean is not synth. I was just wondering if 10W would be better for year round driving?
  • danpf1danpf1 Posts: 80
    I use 5w-30 Royal Purple syn. year around, temps in my area range from 28deg to 110deg and according to my manual you can use 10w-30 also but I prefer the later for all around use, no problems so far. In my Honda CR-V EX I also use 5w-30 Royal Purple syn., the Motorhome I use 10w-30 Royal Purple. Full synthetics front to rear on all the vehicles, except the Honda, Haven't changed it over yet to full synthetics but will soon.
  • scottinkyscottinky Posts: 194
    Can someone recommend a good set of aftermarket rotors
    and pads? mine are warped again at 20K, and I don't want to
    pay to have them resurfaced, I would rather them be replaced.
  • aigengaaigenga Posts: 14
    Well, I went ahead with the rotors and a set of AXXIS Metal Master pads (see my message #7506). The parts cost me about $120 and the service was $150 at a local mechanic. I bed them in as I have seen advised and could smell the brakes heat up. The results so far (200 miles or so) are great - better feel, better bite, shorter distances (I guess).

    I think this is a better way to go than cutting the existing rotors.

    Thanks for the replys, it gave me the courage to do the right thing.

  • smokey75smokey75 Posts: 434
    Go to
    I like the Powerstop cross-drilled rotors & the Axxis Metal Master pads. This is what two different places recommened to me also.
  • scottinkyscottinky Posts: 194
    What about Brembo rotors with the Akebono pads? They are
    $73 each vs $136 for those powerstops cross drilled?
  • gkarggkarg Posts: 230
    My brother just purchased a used 2001 Pathfinder and I was surprised at the fact that the only light to come on when the doors were open was the cargo ceiling light (yes just one light in the whole vehicle.) He said the middle ceiling light was burned out. I thought the map lights (front ceiling) should be coming on.

    I know there is a switch on the center light that changes when the light comes on - but which lights are supposed to come on and when? Can the map lights be made to illuminate when the doors are opened? Are there any lights that should come on for the floor/foot well areas?

  • Jack44Jack44 Posts: 221
    Has anyone found a longer oil filter than the small one's that are on there...For a little more filtration...

    I've been using Fram ToughGuards...
  • xplorx4xplorx4 Posts: 621
    The map lights do not illuminate when the doors are opened. Only the dome lights in the cargo area and above the rear seat illuminate when the doors open. The maps lights cannot be made to illuminate (at least not very easily) with the door open, since they are just a on/off pushbutton toggle switch. (The dome lights have a 3-way switch.)
  • smokey75smokey75 Posts: 434
    I haven't been able to find Brembo rotors for my 2001 PF. Where did you get them. I do like Brembo better though.
  • gkarggkarg Posts: 230
    Thanks - I guessed that was going to be the case. It just seems strange that they didn't have those map lights illuminate, too. My '92 Continental and '00 LS have similarly positioned lights - both on toggles, but they illuminate with the doors, also.
  • scottinkyscottinky Posts: 194
    at tirerack for $73 each. those are the plain jane ones, no crossdrilled, no slotted.
  • smokey75smokey75 Posts: 434
    Oh ok... I went on tirerack & looked at them. While I do like Brembo, I am looking for cross-drilled rotors so it looks like the PowerStop is still the best I've found. Thanks for the input though...
  • Is it true ? If you switch from conventional oil to synthetic, you cannot switch back to conventional oil.
  • danpf1danpf1 Posts: 80
    If you believe that , I have a bridge for sale, real cheep. I think what they meant to say was, If you change over to synthetic oil, you will never want to change back to conventional oil or fluids.
  • The VQ35 engine in the '04 has been used since '01 and is essentially unchanged (same HP, torque and MPG ratings seem to confirm that). I have no idea why Nissan is now recommending against using synthetics...maybe it has to do with new seals they are using or something (or they are playing it safe). My dealer also offers synthetic oil changes for the Pathfinder.

    As for myself, I have switched both diffs, the engine, transfer case and transmission to synthetic in my '01 LE. The difference in mileage was noticable right away (around 1 mpg) although I haven't checked it lately.

    While I'm posting...regarding the Premium vs Regular fuel grade issue, my own (repeated) results indicate a loss of performance and mileage with the switch to 87 octane from 91 octane...I'll stick to the good stuff. These are simply my own findings.
  • dieselonedieselone Posts: 5,634
    Well today was a bad day. Had to make a 400 mile round trip to Wichita, KS which is bad enough. I have an 01 LE w/ 52k miles. On the way to Wichita my CD changer played a complete CD and was changing to the cd in the #2 slot. I immediately noticed a grinding nasty noise comming from the changer, then the dreaded ERR 2 came up on the display. I was able to eject all of my cds, but it still will not play any cd's i've tried. To add insult to injury, on the trip back home the MIL light is now on. This is the 3rd time the light has come on since I had this vehicle since being purchased new. The 1st time was the 02 sensors which were under warranty. The 2nd occured about 2 mos. ago which ended up being a valve timming postion sensor & $300. Who knows what the problem is this time. I guess a trip to the dealer is in order and my wallet will most likely be much lighter when I get the truck back.

    Anyone have an idea on how much a new cd changer costs? I'm affraid of what the dealer will charge.
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