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Nissan Pathfinder

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Comments

  • sanandtonsanandton Posts: 342
    Where do you live? I have a dark green 01 PF LE calling your name for a detail. The burnt cherry was my first color choice with the charcoal leather interior, but I bought one of the first ones delivered in my area and got my second choice of green/charcoal. The Burnt cherry looks great.
  • podagrapodagra Posts: 1
    I live in VA and considering a new pathfinder. I am interested in the SE with sunroof or the LE without leather -- not sure yet, about the same cost. I am wondering if there are any incentives/rebates. Also, I wanted to know if the interest rate is still as low as it was last month. If anyone out there is from VA and just recently purchased a pathfinder, how much will one set me back?

    Thanks for the info.
  • sscherrsscherr Posts: 4
    Thanks for the tips, everyone. I have two offers on the table for the Bronze Gray/Charcoal. First is $31,091 for LE, AWD, everything but navigation and entertainment. Second is for exact same vehicle except without tow hitch for $30,573.

    Any thoughts on the importance of the tow hitch? I doubt we will ever own a boat or pop up camper.

    Will decide today. Thanks.

    Scott
  • smithmdsmithmd Posts: 167
    The hitch isn't worth $518...especially if you aren't going to tow.

    It makes a nice step and offers a little extra rear collision protection. Also, there are bike racks and cargo shelves/carriers that can be easily mounted on the hitch. And it is convenient to have the hitch and wiring already on the truck if you ever have need to tow a U-Haul.

    Even if you do want the hitch for the reasons I mentioned, it still isn't worth $518. I paid $250 to have a Drawtite hitch and wiring installed at a local truck accessories shop. I should have done it myself and saved $50, but I needed it right then and didn't have time to do the install myself.

    Congrats on your upcoming purchase! You're gonna love it!
  • bgritzbgritz Posts: 139
    ballfire8888:
    The harness is what they call a T-harness. There is a left side, & a right side that both join up and go to a standard 4-bar socket. The right and left sides just plug into the factory wiring near the brake lights.

    For installation you have to remove a few of the trim and side panels in the rear cargo area, but it was actually pretty easy. To allow the wires to come out under the vehical rather than out the rear tailgate, I removed the starage bin under the cargo area.

    Once this was removed, it allowed me to put a hole in a rubber drain-type gasket that went to the outside above the spare tire. I just fed the harness through and presto, the harness now comes out on the exterior, behind the hitch. After putting the storage bin back in and attaching the interior panels, you can't even tell that there is any wiring installed.
    good luck

    sscherr:
    An aftermarket hitch would only cast you a few hundred at most installed. So I'd save the $518 untill you decide you need one.
  • On Monday 4/16 my wife and I decided on a 2k1 PF LE. We agreed on a price(under invoice)with the dealer. The current Nissan fin for 60mths was 5.9%. Much to our surprise and delight, when we came back last night to pick up our PF, our sales rep said he had a nice surprise for us. We had signed all the paperwork on Monday, 4/16. They told us there were tearing up the old paperwork because Nissan had dropped its fin rate to 3.9 for the same time frame, effective 4/18.
    I know Nissan had a 3.9 rate which ended 4/2. We were not ready to buy then. Since we had already signed the paperwork they could have just let us
    drive off the lot and closed the deal. The cut in rate saves us over $1600 over the life of the loan. We love our PF.

    Al & Ann
  • I'm a new PF owner (2001 PF LE) and after 2 Jeep's I'm really enjoying driving again, especially cornering. I really love this machine. I am interested in adding the rear window deflector myself. I've looked at instructions on some of the great web sites posted here and then looked at my rear window hinge section.

    There is a black covering over the screws where the hinges are attached and I'm not sure as to how to go about removing this. Do I need to? Does it just snap off? How do I go about removing it? Any input would be greatly appreciated.
  • path63path63 Posts: 8
    First unscrew the visible set of screws. Then snap-off the cover that is covering the other set of screws.
    (NOTE:It is important to replace ONE HINGE AT A TIME. Removing both hinges simultaneously will disengage the window and it will be extremely difficult to re-mount.)
    Next screw the deflector onto the new hinges. Hope this helps.
  • jmtreetopjmtreetop Posts: 130
    I live in the ghetto of Spokane, WA. It's not my favorite city in the world. I only live here right now because of school. Originally, I am from Billings, MT (where my pfinder is registered) I am moving to Denver in early May. Maybe this summer I will load up all my detail accessories and make a Pfinder Detailing Road Trip down to SC. ha ha. BTW, I only do everything by hand, no motorized buffers!
  • danogdanog Posts: 318
    I'd say you scored big with those seats at the Air Canada Center. We paid $85 Canadian last year for the nose bleed section.

    Linsey807,
    The black plastic piece is held in with clips. I was not sure at first, but start at one end and it will pop loose. I had one clip missing when I pulled mine off, but it doesn't cause any problems. The Rear Air Deflector is the best addition so far. Going on 4 days and no dusty grime on the rear area like before.
    Good luck!
    Dano
  • loachloach Posts: 246
    You mentioned fixing some rock chips on your PF. What do you do to fix them - anything special? Did you get touch-up paint from your dealer? After only a month and a half, I already have a couple small chips on my hood that I'd like to take care of. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
  • smokey75smokey75 Posts: 434
    Hey, if I leave my PF in Auto 4wd mode & it automatically engages due to wheel spin, does the 4wd display on the dash change at all?
  • phil47phil47 Posts: 394
    it stays the same.
  • ced1ced1 Posts: 8
    podagra, I live in Northern VA and bought an 4wd LE at the end of February. I paid Edmunds TMV for Feb., the TMV now is actually LOWER! I am not upset because I got a truly fair deal on the Pathy at the time, and an excellent deal on my trade in. I recommend staying away from the D.C. area unless you enjoy the game playing that high overhead cost dealers make you go through. I traveled to Tri-State Nissan in Winchester for a fairly straight forward deal. Good Luck.
  • skips2skips2 Posts: 52
    What's the name of the dealer in Baltimore offered you the low prices on a Pathfinder that you mentioned? Thanks.
  • bimmer4mebimmer4me Posts: 266
    FYI: There will be a redesigned 2003 Pathfinder according to Nissan slightly larger than the current one. In addition to the Pathfinder there will be a FULL SIZE suv from nissan that hasn't been named, and it will not be called the Pathfinder. I'm really looking foward to the next Maxima redesign...I only hope they do a better job on the styling, the current styling is somewhat strange/awkward looking, especially from the rear end. I guess that's why they havn't been selling that well. The all new Altima that's arriving soon, will probably surpass the current Maxima in sales...a much better looking car.
  • jmtreetopjmtreetop Posts: 130
    I purchased the touch up paint directly from Nissan. It is only like $5 that will most likely last the entire time you own the vehicle. I had some problems with the paint blobs that were somewhat obvious after a nice wash and wax so I purchased Langka blob remover...an it actually works well. Here is a link if interested.


    http://www.langka.com

  • mbuntingmbunting Posts: 158
    sscherr -

    In January I purchased a Loaded (Minus the - Tow Hitch - Nav System & Ent. System) 2001 Sierra Silver LE from Tischer Nissan-Acura in Laurel, Maryland (3510 Fort Meade Road) for $31,000.00. NO ADDED FEES were even added went I went to pick the PF up!

    Rich Belliveau was my salesman. He can be reached at 301-498-3322. He was very fair and very easy to work with. I got the price quote via email also, but I cannot find his email address now, sorry.

    Good Luck! If you talk to Rich, tell him Mike Bunting sent you!
  • Since you've been discussing rock chips, what do you do for a chiped windshield from a rock. It happend to me yesterday. Now I've got a small chip right in my line of sight.
  • bgritzbgritz Posts: 139
    blincol68,
    Talk to an autoglass shop. The chip can be filled and any cracks stopped before they run. They still may be slightly visible, but all the ones I have had done have been improved markedly!

    The cost is usually between $40 and $80 depending on the number and severity. Our insurance (USAA) waives the cost of getting the chips fixed because they know its cheaper than a full windshield replacement claims.
  • phil47phil47 Posts: 394
    Here's a couple of tips. You can buy a product from Bullseye to repair windshield rock chips and star damage (not the real long cracks). It costs around $10 CAD ($6.50 USD). It is a syringe with a clear resin that attaches to a plastic adapter that sticks to your windshield (centered on the chip). The whole process takes around an hour (of which 50 minutes is spent watching TV while it seeps into the damage area) and then an hour in the sun to cure with UV light. It is good for one application. I have used it at least 6 or 7 times and been VERY pleased with the results. They are almost invisible. It is at least as good as any shop I have gone to. I have 2 kits in my glove box at all times (repair the chips before the cracks spread).

    As for paint chips, the LANKA system sounds like a much cheaper "do-it-yourself" system. Common acetone (from any hardware store) will dissolve touch-up paint w/o damaging cured auto paint. Perform your touch up ensuring that the paint "blobs" higher than the surface of the car's paint. When it is dry, wrap a piece of bedsheet (or other such tightly woven cotton) around a small, solid block of wood or metal (like a small version of a sanding block). Add a few drops of acetone to the cloth and lightly buff the paint chip. It will dissolve the blob until it is level with the surface of the paint. It works very well. Doing this with a thicker cloth or w/o the block will result in removal of all the touchup paint which is not the intended result.

    Hope this helps.
  • poswaldposwald Posts: 38
    I don't know about the rest of you but this post has got to be the most useful one for me!!! Paint chips and windshield dings are one of my pet peeves. Thanks a ton phil47!!
  • pathstarpathstar Posts: 201
    Where in Canada can we get the Bullseye stuff, Phil?
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,885
    Great stuff; may need to link this thread to Maintenance & Repair somewhere. My ins. (AIG) picked up the cost for my windshield chip--around $40--and the guy came to my house to fix it.

    I've also heard that it helps to put Scotch or other clear tape over the crack to keep the dirt out until you can get the chip glued.

    Steve
    Host
    Vans, SUVs and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards

    Moderator
    Minivan fan. Feel free to message or email me - stever@edmunds.com.

  • phil47phil47 Posts: 394
    Is manufactured by Loctite and is available from Canadian Tire....eh. I'm not sure where to get it stateside, but here is an online vendor selling the stuff:


    http://www.autobarn.net/per16067.html

  • jmtreetopjmtreetop Posts: 130
    Has anyone hit the 12000 mile mark yet and started using synthetics?? Any difference in mileage, performance, smoothness??
  • danog & path63:
    Thanks for the feedback. As soon as my rear deflector arrives I'll be taking your installation advice.

    Has anyone noticed 'play' in the PF gas pedal? It seems that mine has about a quarter to half an inch worth of play in it. In other words, when I step on the gas for the 1st quarter to half inch of depression, it does not engage the engine (it does nothing).

    Is this something I should be concerned about or 'normal' operation for a PF? I have a 2001 PF LE.
  • sscherrsscherr Posts: 4
    I am picking up my Bronze Gray/Charcoal Leather Nissan Pathfinder LE loaded with everything but entertainment, tow hitch, and navigation for $30,619 from Bob Bell Nissan in Dundalk. Ask for Mike Grimm. (410) 288-2500. Price includes freight. Only additions are tax and tags. 3.9% financing for five years.

    I could have gotten the same vehicle with tow hitch for $31,091 at (1) Nationwide Auto in Timonium (ask for internet manager), (2) Sheehy Nissan in Glen Burnie (ask for Doug Prichard), and (3) Bob Bell Nissan (Mike Grimm). I decided I did not need the tow hitch.

    Scott R. Scherr
  • poswaldposwald Posts: 38
    I have 13,000 miles on my 01 PF LE. Unlike many others who have advised against using synthetic oils in their new vehicles until a certain break in period, I have had Mobil 1 in my car ever since the first oil change. I use to work for Mobil R&D in the lubes group making this stuff and I have confidence in it. I don't really care if others think this is right or wrong. I have used Mobil 1 in all of my cars since 1985 and haven't had to get any major engine work done on any of them. I change every 7,500 miles and use only Fram filters. Nonetheless, to answer your question, I have had a slight increase in gas mileage (14.? to 15.?) lately as the engine has loosened up. Nothing great but definitely real and noticeable.
  • jci109jci109 Posts: 9
    I got my rock chip yesterday just right of the am/fm antenna thing on the window. What a bummer!!! But, glad to hear that USAA will repair for free. God, I love USAA...and my PF. I agree with others that this is one of the most helpful discussions I have read in a while. I just ran out and cleaned the windshield and put some scotch tape over it until we can get it fixed. Thank you for all the tips.
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