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Nissan Pathfinder

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  • li_sailorli_sailor Posts: 1,081
    Drew...you commented on my post re steep driveway in snow (8-10"). You said:

    "For uphill sections in deep snow, low range is good. However, keep in mind that with low range, you have over 2 times the amount of torque going to the wheels. This will make them easier to break free on slippery surfaces, and that may cause your vehicle to dig into the ground and get stuck. Just something to be aware of. Have fun in the snow! Wish there was some here..."

    I'm not sure what you meant other than that you should keep rpms down for good traction. Did you mean something else/more? Isn't torque always higher the lower the gear? Did you mean I might be better off with 4Hi? I was going 15-20mph, though..isn't Lo better for that speed? I'm new to 4WD so I'm always looking for info. I'm not new to snow though...and I've gotten pretty good at handling a car in snow. Still, it was great to have that mucho extra traction when I needed it. What a difference.
  • Well, it finally happen, got a few scratches on the rear bumper, my 8 year was trying to put his bike in the back, could not wait for dad, so there are five scratches, a couple of them are deep enough to show the black of the bumper,I think the others can be rubbed out, can this be fixed by the dealer or take it to a body shop or get some touch up paint from the dealer ?
  • pathy57pathy57 Posts: 25
    It's not cheap to fix, mine got damaged at car wash. Took to body shop, they removed bumber filled dings and gouges, primered, painted, clear coated and installed $286. Car wash paid for damage but it was a surprise at how much it cost. I didn't expect it to cost that much. You might be able to repair yourself. I had about 5000 miles and car wash, HEY HEY was a touchless. Nice folks paid without question after I was able to convince them that their Touchless Car Wash touched by bumper. I'm sure you can probably fix cheaper. With little guys you might want to fix it yourself, cause I got a feeling it wont be the last time.
  • tonychrystonychrys Posts: 1,310
    I apologize, but I have to ask... how does a "touchless car wash touch your car". (say that 10 times as fast as you can!)
  • pathy57pathy57 Posts: 25
    round and round touchless spray bar goes, round and round touchless spray bar goes. Then touchless spray bar defaults and swings in and gouges bumper. The car behind me was a witness and the spray bar nozzle groves matched my scratches. I dont go to that touchless anymore.
  • tonychrystonychrys Posts: 1,310
    Take T out of touch and you have ouch!

    Bummer, sorry to hear about the Pathy getting damaged.. and for a stupid reason at that! I hate when this stuff happens, you're just minding your own business...

    Sort of like when you are sitting in your car in a parking lot, somebody pulls in, swings open their door, right into yours! And you are sitting in the car. And they don't even acknowledge that they dinged you!

    I think the species needs to thin itself out a little quicker...
  • Thanks for the input, my wife is going to call the dealer and give them a song,dance, and tear, the owner is a good friend of my boss, I remember some talk about a clear film you can put over the bumper,I think it was made by 3M, does anyone remember?
  • pat01pat01 Posts: 23
    I have the ultimate in comparison experience. I have owned both a Super Black and now a Sierra Silver 01 PF LE. For those that follow the list, the former was a manufacturer repurchase (from me) having met the lemon law requirements. The Super Black PF was dirty and dusty without rain or snow in a very short period of time (days). I washed it more than I would care to tell and I only drove it for a very short period of time. The Silver car hides any dust and dirt very well keeping the vehicle looking sharp for much longer. I am somewhat partial to just how sharp the Black PF looks when clean, but Silver is a very practical alternative.
  • auto2000auto2000 Posts: 1
    Recently, I leased a 2001 Pathfinder LE. I've noticed that when I turn the engine off, the car occasional feels like it is about to lurch forward. I was advised by the Nissan service staff that this is caused by the "gears locking in". Does anybody know if this is normal? If not, what can I do about it?

    Thank you,
    auto2000
  • pathstarpathstar Posts: 201
    The clear film is made by 3M. It's not cheap, and it will gouge if rubbed by a sharp object, but it does work. I've scraped off some paint on my front "bumper" sides as well. I'm going to apply the black rubber strips to work as "rub strips". This painted bumper is nice to look at when new, but is pretty useless. It's a -bumper- .. when you "bump" it it should suffer no damage! I'm beginning to wish for a stainless bumper.

    The shut off lurch you notice is normal (in AUTO mode only). See my message 1699. It will also lurch if you move the vehicle, put it in park, and wait about 5 sec. with the engine running.
  • woodyr1woodyr1 Posts: 142
    On my 95 Pathfinder, I had Nissan running boards installed when it was new. They were black, extruded aluminum, with non-skid strip on the surface. They fastened to the frame rail by a bracket, and had two plates, which fastened to the wheel arches, the front one forming a mud flap. In the 6 years I had this truck, they worked great. I live in a winter climate, with gravel, snow and mud prevalent during the seasons. The running boards prevented chipping of the rocker panels, prevented my pants from getting soiled when getting in and out of the truck, as well as formed a step to the roof.

    The SE Pathfinder has a step rail, and the LE, running boards, but both lack the plates which fasten to the wheel arches. The cost of SE bars is Cdn $800, while the LE boards are $900. I can get aftermarket boards installed for about Cdn $300, similar to the ones I had on my 95 Pathfinder.

    Do any of you who have an SE or LE find the factory boards do an adequate job of keeping mud and road grime splatter off the rocker panels and side of the vehicle? Unless I find a substantive reason to stick with 'genuine' product, I will likely take the $300 route.

    Thanks in advance

    Woody
  • pathstarpathstar Posts: 201
    I chose the LE (over the SE) because the running boards appeared to provide better protection. They do, but it's not perfect. They will collect mud and gravel on top of the boards at the front and rear, because they don't have that tie-in to the "mud flaps" or wheel arches that you mention. I think they are stronger than the aftermarket boards, though (and probably heavier too). They look nicer than the aluminum "checker-plate" running boards to me (I think they look tacky). Anyway, so far no chips in the rockers or sides (11,000 km with only one 100 km trip on gravel roads).
  • drew_drew_ Posts: 3,382
    "It is not known what inspired Neil to want to begin racing cars, but what IS known… is about his love of cars. Neil Chirico, Road Test Editor for Edmunds.com is ready to answer your questions about the many cars that he has test-driven. Neil also brings you a wealth of knowledge concerning the many questions that you will have about vehicle service, having been in the trenches as a service advisor at the dealership level for many years. Don't miss having your questions answered by one of Edmunds best.

    image

    When:
    Tues, March 13th (Tonight) at 6-7pm Pacific/9-10pm Eastern

    Click on the link below to read more about/to enter the chat:
    http://www.edmunds.com/chat/chiricochat031301.html


    Drew
    Host
    Vans, SUVs, and Aftermarket and Accessories message boards
  • drew_drew_ Posts: 3,382
    Oops, the editors chat is tonight at 5-6pm Pacific/8-9pm Eastern. Apologies for the typo.


    Drew
    Host
    Vans, SUVs, and Aftermarket and Accessories message boards
  • Well, after 13 years of outstanding service to me and my family, I have finally decided to sell the 1988 Pathfinder XE that me and my wife bought the first Christmas we were married. Two door and bare bones, it has lasted all these years without a complaint. My two boys are 12 and 9 and they are real sad to see it on the sellers block. We own a 98 SE and have just ordered a 2001 LE to replace "old blue". I am sad, very sad. On the other hand, I am real excited about the new engine in the 2001 and look forward to another 13 years without problems.
  • I have a 97 Pathfinder and am taking it in for the 60k service at the local dealer. The service manager said that they recommend changing the timing belt at 60k. I checked the owners manual and the recommended replacement interval is 105k Anybody had their timing belt replaced or have any info on this? Thanks in advance
  • hasanashasanas Posts: 19
    I own a 2001 PF LE with auto transmission. I wanted to know if it's better to apply the hand brake before shifting into Park. A friend of mine told me that this way it will put less wear and tear on the transmission. Anyone have any comments/suggestions on this?

    Has anyone replaced the factory antenna with a power antenna? Was it costly?

    Thanks.
  • meca2meca2 Posts: 284
    hasanas: Yes,it is a very good idea to apply the parking brake first then
    put the trans in park. Also I'm in the habet to apply the parking brake
    then remove your foot from the brakes to make sure it hold and remove
    any pressure that might be on the transmission parking paw. If you do this
    you wiil never have any trouble getting it out of park and your trans
    will love you for it. Older Fords had big problems with their paws,they
    would brake off!! Cheers
  • meca2meca2 Posts: 284
    nismofreak: I have sent you the info you asked and some on knock sensors to update your info on how and what a knock senser realy does. The k-senser in our PF is a Piezoelectric Element and yes it has to here a knocking vibration one that you can here. Like a Ford Power Stroke. Also a fuel glossary so you can understand the difference between Octane and Volatility (Reid Vapor Pressure). If you have read page 10-5 in the owners manual it says if under very high throttle
    you will here a slight knock. This is called the "knock limit",this is where the engine gets the greatest fuel benefit.I have clearly stated that here in Oregon the fuel quality is not controlled by the state and we have the worst fuel in the country. During the winter the fuel is blended with alcohol and other compounds like zylene,benzene to make more volatile,make your car start better in cold weather. This "premium" fuel sets in the tank at the gas station these high ends of the fuel disapates and with it goes the octane. If cost of the fuel was the only concern I would have 3 Fords in my driveway instead of 3 Nissans. I try to get the "freshest" and cleanest fuel possable. Maybe the P-fuel might be better next summer? 25 years of Nissans/800,000+mi. Cheers
  • Hi all,

    Well, I picked up the Pathfinder from Port City Nissan in New Hampshire and put 1,500 miles on it in two days and will put 2,500 more miles on it in the next week returning to California. I checked mileage in the first 1,500 miles (5 tankfuls) and got the following: 18.92mpg, 19.1mpg, 19.34mpg, 18.7mpg and 17.25mpg. I was mostly on cruise control on I-95 at 70-82mph as speed limits/conditions allowed. The last tank was a night in Daytona Beach for Spring Break (worth the 2mpg hit!).

    I'm changing the oil and filter tomorrow morning with a Nissan filter and 5w-30 Mobil 1. I'll pay close attention to any potential differences Mobil might make and let you guys know.

    Captain Ron. . .
    2001 LE, 4X4, Burnt Cherry, black leather, navigation...
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