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Jeep Grand Cherokee

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  • rinkinkinrinkinkin Posts: 35
    Built in 05/00
    Bought in 09/00
    I had almost 10000mi on it now.
    Glad to say not a single rattle, love the v8 and so far it's one of the best vehicle I had ever owned. Only problem is the rotors need replaced every 4000 mi or so (under warranty).
    I want to let the folks to know that there are happy/lucky owners and a lot of problems you read from this forum do exist, but it seems that the first run of the current model in 1999 was a bad batch . My brother's 1999 V8 with QD had all the whining and rotor problems you read about.
    But in this part of the continent where I live now is dominated by SUVs and I am surprised that 99% of the GCL are V8 QD (not QT or Select Trac) and I haven't heard any owners complained about it. I tend to believe that the whining and spotty
    quality control is not wide spread in the GCL platfrom and I think you will get a perfect GCL or a very bad one - nothing in between.
    This contrast with my 93 GCL I-6 which had every single problem you can see on this forum except the engine and the tranny (thank God).When you sit in the driver's seat, everything you see --- every gauge, radio (7) , computer, cruise control, horn etc etc had been replaced or repaired at least once . I put on 140000mi before I traded it in for the 2000 .
  • jeepluvjeepluv Posts: 36
    Just thought I'd add a good experience - bought a 96 JGCL I6 w/ 30k miles, now has almost 80k and only minor problems - no rotors, shakes, rattles, excessive tire wear, etc. Just an a/c condenser, small coolant hose (to fix a small leak), and a new radio (old one had caused an electrical short). Other than that, still works and drives great. I'm about due for a new truck and will definitely consider the JGC along with Pathy/QX4, Sequioa, MDX, ML, and Tahoe/Yukon. I've got a friend with a 2000 Laredo who has had no problems. So hopefully quality/reliability is improving post-1999, just as it did post-93.
  • zeenzeen Posts: 391
    Replacing the rotors every 4000 miles? You gotta be kidding.
  • blujeepblujeep Posts: 44
    Funny you should ask! :) I have a I-6 '99 GC also & I just had a catback installed last Saturday. After much research, I went with a Gibson performance exhaust system. (www.gibsonperformance.com)
    I got the "Single Swept Side" model which they say is their quietest one.
    I love it! It has a big, mellow sound that's mainly heard from the back, so yes, normal conversation is possible. It's louder than stock, but not annoyingly so. There is no resonation in the cab at all. It's loudest when under full acceleration but it sounds so cool it always makes me grin like a fool! Once I get over 60 mph the sound mutes to a slight drone.
    The name of the system is a misnomer in the GC's case as it exits straight out the back like the stock pipe. But it looks so much better! The kit comes with a polished stainless tip & looks great!
    Gibson claims (for our truck) about 10-12 extra horsepower at the wheels, 15 extra lb. ft. of torque & about 1-1&1/2 more mpg. I can't confirm those numbers, but I do know acceleration from a standing start is much quicker (& again it sound so cool!) & I'm passing other vehicles more quickly & I get up to 60-65 mph faster than before, so I'm pretty impressed with the power increase. It's definitely noticable.
    Sorry to ramble on so much, but I would definitely recommend that you check out the website, email them (they are very helpful) & go buy one! The dealer I went to installed it in under 40 minutes & was very meticulous.
    In case you can't tell, I'm lovin' my Gibson. *grin*
  • blujeepblujeep Posts: 44
    Has anyone here installed an aftermarket ignition system? I'm thinking of installing one & I've been doing some research on Jacobs Electronics' systems. They claim that by installing their "Ultra Team Energy Pack" system, horsepower, torque, fuel economy & a host of other things are improved dramatically.
    Has anyone here had any experience with this type of system? I'd like to know what the drawbacks are - does installing one violate the warranty, can it damage the spark plugs or other electrical components?
    I'd appreciate it if anyone who knows anything about this type of product could respond.
    Thanks.
  • leo948leo948 Posts: 38
    do you mind sharing the price of the cat-back you got for your jeep? i've also considered getting a stainless system for my jgcl (leaning toward borla for now) but i'm still debating on getting just the muffler, a cat-back, or possibly going all out with the cat-back, headers, and k&n intake. eventually i'd like to add a screw-type blower and an air bag suspension, but that's so far in the future it's not even funny.

    leo
  • blujeepblujeep Posts: 44
    One of the other things I liked about the Gibson is that it's cheaper than most other brands - a stainless muffler, stainless mandrel-bent 2 1/2" pipe & a polished stainless tip, installed & all, cost me only $475.00.
    The B&B Triflow (I think that's the name) is almost $700, & that's w/o the installation!
    Do you have the 6 or the 8? I'm not sure if Borla makes a catback for the 6, check it out.
    I'd suggest going with the entire catback system, not just the muffler. Headers would be great too, but Gibson doesn't make 'em for the GC. Too much $$ for me now, anyway. Maybe when the originals go...
    As for the K&N intake, again, they don't make it for the 6 cyl, only the 8 so I'm outta luck there too. I just have the regular K&N air filter & I'm hoping they make the FIPK for the 6 cyl soon.
    Have you priced the screw-type blower yet? How much do they go for? & how much performance gain is there?
    I'd appreciate any info you may have.
    Thanks.
  • mike331mike331 Posts: 6
    i am not alone in this jeep nighmare. 93 jgc...
    warped rotors, rough idle, lousy gas milage, sloppy steering, slow window motors, leaking trans, leaking ps, ac always under repair, fog lamps just fell out, rust. where does it stop??
    anyway, now when it gets driven for say over 1/2 hr or so and hiway or city, a sharp turn produces a lurching as if the wheels were oval. jeep says front transfer case and $1,000....anyone have similiar experience?
  • turndirtturndirt Posts: 1
    Yes, it does seem to be a Jeep thing.
    I purchased my Jeep with 36K from the dealer in Winston Salem. Good folks, bad product.
    Here is the list of things that I have had to deal with since I bought it (glad I bought the extended warranty too):
    38,000 miles: Much spark knocking begins. No noticible smoke from tailpipe. Take it back to the dealer to have the intake manifold gasket replaced. Engine had run almost completely out of oil during this fiasco.
    55,000 miles: Front end is roaring like a herd of lions on the plains of the Serengetti. Dealer replaces hub, pinion, and carrier bearings in front end. Interior light that stays on all of the time is fixed, and I am told that my ABS pump and controller unit may soon need replacing as the light has been coming on since Friday evening. This little piece of information could eventually cost me around $1500 in parts. Don't know what the labor will be like. I think that I am going to fix the problem by covering up the ABS light with electrical tape. Did you know that ABS stuff isn't covered under an extended warranty package?
    I am EXTREMELY disapointed with this vehicle. As far as size, styling, power, and comfort goes, it's a great. That does not, however, out weigh the reliability issue. Three MAJOR problems under 60k. I suppose that I have been spoiled by my last two vehicles that hit 100k with ner a problem. The Chevrolet went on to see 237k. I think that I am going to try to find that little old lady that I sold it to and ask her if I can have it back...
  • leo948leo948 Posts: 38
    mine is an '01 jgcl w/the v-8 and the 28k pkg, silverstone/taupe. i like the stock performance but i wouldn't mind a nice rumble when i jump on it. i've read some good things about the k&n kit but i think there's a tradeoff with underhood howl. if you'd like to see some prices check out http://www.truckperformance.com

    for some performance numbers (for a supercharged v-8) you can do a search for 'jeep grand cherokee unlimited' and you'll find a nice custom job put out by chrysler (i think).


    happy reading...

  • kwylliekwyllie Posts: 13
    Thanks for the reply Blujeep. The Gibson looked like a good deal, but I only found reviews for Borla, Edelbrock and the like, so I was wary. A Gibson dealer here in town has the stainless steel model for $353, the aluminized for $258. The shops I've talked to here all want to custom bend the pipes and add a Flowmaster muffler, for $400+. They say you get the greatest power boost from the Flowmaster. I read one review from a guy who said his neighbors are not pleased with his new Flowmaster muffler. The shops say it depends on which Flowmaster model you buy. I'm going to buy the Gibson aluminized and install it myself ("It can't be that difficult" are always my famous last words). I'll add a drop in K&N air filter and be on my way. I'll let you know how well it works.
  • blujeepblujeep Posts: 44
    Well, they say it's pretty easy & should only take a couple of hours, but good luck to you. :) I'm not that handy so I had it installed by the shop that I bought it from.

    You might want to re-think the aluminized system, tho - from what I've heard/read, aluminized systems will only last about 8 years or so, whereas stainless will outlast your truck! I was gonna go with aluminized, but there was only about a $90 difference in the prices, so I went with the stainless. But that's your call, obviously. The prices you quoted are a little lower than my dealer's prices, so that's a great deal.

    As for the Flowmaster, my understanding is that they are very noisy, inside & out, which I don't think is what you (or your neighbors) want. I think you'll be happy with the Gibson. I have a K&N air filter also, tho to tell the truth I can't tell if it makes any difference in performance.

    My next "upgrade" (possibly) is a Jacobs Electronics "Ultra Team" computerized ignition system - also supposed to boost hp, torque, mpg & a bunch of other things. I'm still checking up on it.

    Yeah, let me know how it goes. Have fun!
  • blujeepblujeep Posts: 44
    I'm gonna check it out. :)

    Sounds like a nice Jeep you got there.
    My GC is a Laredo in Patriot Blue (duh) with taupe interior. I got the F package plus leather heated power seats, the Infinity stero w/cd & steering wheel controls, sun roof, Select-Trac & a full size spare with matching wheel.
    Except for a few problems here & there it's a great truck. *keeps fingers crossed*
  • kwylliekwyllie Posts: 13
    You are probably right about the stainless Blujeep, expecially since it's only about $100 more. I'll only have this Jeep another 2 years at the most, so I may stick with the aluminized. The only reason I'm considering a cat back is because I bought a bigger camper trailer last summer and the old I6 needs a touch more power for travel in the mountains. I'll buy a new Jeep late in 2002 or early 2003 and it will definitely have the V8. Thanks for your help.
  • blujeepblujeep Posts: 44
    Have fun in the mountains. :)
  • calwcalw Posts: 1
    Hey guys, I am looking at a used 99 GCL w/ quadra drive. Is it correct in that you can only shift in and out of 4 wheel drive at low speeds (like below 8 mph) with this type of transmission? W select trak you can shift on the fly anytime at any speed. If someone is familar with this, please advise.
  • livetodrivelivetodrive Posts: 104
    Quadra Drive is always in 4-wheel drive mode. When a wheel starts slipping it passes power to the other wheels. So when the vehicle is in high mode it is already in 4-wheel drive.

    Low gear is only meant for travelling very slowly, say going up a steep hill or travelling slowly on ice or snow. You are correct in stating that you can only shift into low gear at low speed.
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,963
    Jeep Remains Tenth Best-Selling Brand

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    Minivan fan. Feel free to message or email me - stever@edmunds.com.

  • bb_lhs_2kbb_lhs_2k Posts: 94
    Hi, my father-in-law has a Gold 2000 Grand Cherokee limited. Unfortunately, someone keyed the passenger door about 10 inches. I don't think it's all the way to the metal, but it's definitely noticeable. I'm just wondering if anyone knows of an easy way or method to deminish the scratch (from far away, obviously) without actually having the door painted. Thanks!
  • I have been trading war stories with a co-worker here at the Edmonds School District. I own a 1993 Jeep Grand Cherokee, he owns a 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee. I bought mine in December and have poured more than $8,000 into it to keep it running. Even now, it is sitting in my driveway and refuses to start. When it does, it frequently revs without warning and is difficult to stop. The transmission shifts at incorrect times, the gurggling behind my glove box is now so loud that we cannot have conversations while driving, and it struggles to start every morning.

    I just paid $906 to have these three issues addressed, but the dealer service only worsened the symptoms as they were unable to figure out the problems.

    My wife was impressed by the look of the Grand Cherokee. It seems that may be the only positive thing about the vehicle - how impressive it looks in the driveway. (We spent $1500 repainting the vehicle after your paint peeled off.) We thought, at first, it may offer additional security in that people passing by may think someone is home. Given the reputation of your product, it is more likely that potential burglars will suspect the owner is an idiot and stuck in a bedroom closet with drool cascading down his shirt.

    Furthermore, I would recommend that your designers increase the size of the glove box, as all of the service bills no longer fit inside.

    I am deeply concerned about the reputation of your product and the long term impact of assembling shoddy vehicles. Even the list of recalls and bulletins is far too long to read in a single sitting.

    What can I do to address these issues. I am growing tired of spending all this money for something that barely rolls down hills.

    Please advise.

    VIN 1J4GZ58S6PC101666 (Note the last three digits)
  • mdjeepmanmdjeepman Posts: 21
    I have a 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo I6 which I really like. I have not had anywhere near the problems I have been reading about here. The only problem I have experienced was with the fuel pump and trouble starting on the first crank. It was fixed under warranty back in November 2000 and so far so good. But I have had no problems with transmission whine, power windows, brake rotors etc. This just goes to show you that the Jeeps being built are not all equal. I feel fortunate to have found a good one, and I am em pathetic with those on this board experiencing great frustration with their many problems.

    But that is not why I am posting. Can someone tell me where the temperature probe is located on my vehicle. This is the sensor which is connected to the overhead console and gives the outside temperature reading. I just love this feature on my jeep, as I am an avid weather buff, so I was just curious if anyone knows where the sensor is located. I looked in the owner's manual to no avail. mdjeepman/Greg
  • bikybiky Posts: 20
    I see that everybody has been having this shifting problem with the transmission. Mine is a little different than those posted here recently. My JGC (97 Laredo 4.0L) hesitates to shift from 3rd to 4th. Sometimes when it does pick up the 4th, it'll not stay there for long and shift down to 3rd again. And it'll keep trying to go from 3rd to 4th and come back to 3rd again. This is so irritating that I've started driving with "overdrive off". Also, on the 3rd and 4th gear, if it's not trying to switch gears, the rpm keeps fluctuating by a few hundreds. This is irritating too, but I cant escape this.

    A year back when I was in Nashville, I had taken it to a few dealerships for repairs to this (almost 6-7 times). At first, they said that there's nothing wrong with the transmission. When I went again and again, they said "okay, we found out the problem, some cable in the transmission was faulty, it needed some adjustments". I happily started driving home and found no improvement (or maybe neglegible). The problem was still there. Then I took it for repairs a few more times and every time this same thing happened, they would adjust some cable and say it's alright now and it won't be any better.

    Sept 2000, I moved to Minneapolis. Took it to a dealership. They found the problem and fixed it. I was so happy that it's gone. Drove my jeep thru the winter without any kinda problem, but now this transmission problem has reappeared. This Jeep dealership charged me around $70 for adjusting some pressure cable, said it wasn't covered in the Chrysler Service Contract (Max Care) which I have till 60k miles. I dint dispute this charge with DC, 'coz I was happy at least my jeep drives fine. But now that it has started again, I dont want to spend money on fixing it. After all, why did I spend a grand on buying the Service Contract?

    Anyway, this is the story so far. I know many people have had this problem before (saw it on edmunds' townhall itself). Can someone explain what exactly is wrong and how it has to be fixed... permanently? If some part, such as torque converter and/or some cables, have to be changed, I'd like to tell the dealership to do that. I dont want my Jeep to have any problem when it goes out of that Service Contract period in Feb 2002.

    (I'm sure, the explaination/solution to this problem will benefit many.) Thanks in advance.
  • rwharcharwharcha Posts: 19
    SUV with 55K started having vibrations at all speeds. Diagnosed with Bulletin No. 09-06-97.Drive Line Vibration. NOT a recall. Cost to replace Mounts, add stiffening brace, new cross members , and bolt various transmiss. supports is approx. $ 1K , parts & labor. Was told it was only a nuisance "noise , vibration", and does not harm car to drive. They recommended to not have work done. Has anyone on this forum had this problem? SUV , fine otherwise. SUV is 5.2 L 8 cyl. TIA ,
    Russ.
  • bblahabblaha Posts: 329
    I have a JC, not a JGC, but the temperature sensor for the overhead console is screwed into the radiator support in front.


    image

    Scan from service manual

  • mdjeepmanmdjeepman Posts: 21
    Thank you for your quick response complete with diagram. I have been curious about the location of the temperature sensor for quite a while now. I bought the JGC back in May 99. I should have tried this forum a lot sooner I guess. Thanks again and take care....mdjeepman/Greg
  • cheryltalkcheryltalk Posts: 1
    Anybody have this problem? My JGC suddenly won't start. I can hear the engine turn over, but it won't catch. What things should I look for under the hood?

    cheryl
  • livetodrivelivetodrive Posts: 104
    I just turned 10,000 miles on my 2001 JGC with V8, Quadra Trac and 5-speed transmission. So far, I can report the following:
    - Gas mileage (over the last 4,000 miles): 17.3. The best I've gotten is 22 mpg in cruise control at 62 mph (not too often!). Most driving is suburban: mix of fast highway and local stop and go driving.
    - Repairs and adjustments: none (I'm not counting the license plate bolts - they weren't factory-installed!).
    - Service: 3 oil changes and a tire rotation.
    - Brake condition: no signs of wear, no pulsing or squealing.
    - Differentials: no signs of whining.
    - Accesories: I bought the cargo mat and rear mesh net to confine the dog to the rear. She's happy and the seats stay clean. I also bought the bicycle rack which attaches to the hitch. It's a little pricey, but it works fine, even on the highway.
    - Most liked features: comfortable seats, huge side view mirrors, all the electronics (key-controlled memory, steering wheel radio controls, etc.)
    - Options I like: awd performed like a champ in the winter, heated seats, moonroof.
    - Options I would like offered: The JGC alredy offers almost everything. Speed-controlled volume for the radio would be nice.
    - All in all: very satisfied.
  • Jeep Grand Cherokee 2.5. TD, European market
    There were a broken hose in the cooling system (from engine to radiator). Engine overheated. The hose was changed and cooling system was refilled with coolant. After starting the engine temperature is rising very quick and some hoses are cold.
    What is the procedure for the airation of the cooling system? What can be the solution for this problem?
  • mmoore8001mmoore8001 Posts: 1
    Had same problem - the first code was related to the Crankshaft position sensor - check it out before replacing it, the second part was another sensor on the same low voltage circuit - the real culprit was the computer. The final sign was a code indicating that the O2 sensor was failing. Go to the dealer and ask for a price for a rebuilt computer - about 1/2 to 1/3 price of new one - realize that you do have to give them the old one.

    Good luck!!!
  • cpa4ucpa4u Posts: 136
    I have been looking to trade my 1998 Grand Cherokee Laredo for either an Acura or an Infiniti. It has the special edition package, I added the 16" Limited wheels from the dealer when I bought it. It is a 4x4 and V-6. A couple of things do hurt it: no leather and no sunroof. But, it is in absolutely perfect condition. There are no dings, dents or scratches at all anywhere on it. Just turned 42,000 miles. Been to 3-4 dealers and the range for trade allowance is $11,900 to $13,250. Now, am I just completely out of line or is this LOW???? I know that dealers can't put retail in a trade and try to sell it, but I've called about a few I've seen on lots around locally to see what the asking price is and comparable vehicles to mine are in the $16,900 to $17,500 range (retail of course). Anybody got any thoughts for me?? Thanks!!
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