Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Jeep Grand Cherokee

1353638404181

Comments

  • sakinoshsakinosh Posts: 34
    I have recently been looking into purchasing a 98 Limited 4WD with the 5.2L V8 engine. It has 66k miles and is in AWESOME shape. Silver ext/grey interior leather. I must say, you definitely get the bang for your buck.
    I am just EXTREMELY concerned with the reliability of the thing. According to two ex-car mechanics that I work with they said "Stay away!" There's rotor problems, intake manifold leaks, rear end problems, tranny issues, etc.. Apparently, even the Durangos around this time weren't the greatest either. And unfortunately, I'd say about 75% of the past posts support that claim. But like the other 25%, I love this thing! The power's awesome, the sound system rocks, the luxury is great, and the memory seats and steering wheel radio control are top notch.
    However, being the sole source of income of a family of 3 (and soon to be 4), I don't want to purchase something that will be a hassle a few thousand miles down the road. Should I be this concerned?? Please help with any input - positive/negative.
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,231
    Just wait for the front door to fall off. Buddy had a '97 and he drives alot of highway miles. Typical GM stuff (starter, waterpump, alternator, battery, 3 sets of rotors and equal number of pads) in the first 100K, but after that it went completely to pot. Front door wouldn't close past the first catch, had to have the thing taken apart, welded, and new parts. Then the tranny went at 120K and then he started having overheating problems due to sludged up engine. That was the first vehicle he didn't put 200K on before scrapping. And oh my, rattles aren't even the description for the noises that thing made even at fairly low miles. My in-laws '99 JGC Ltd was quite tight when they traded at 85K a few months back. Always had the gear-train whine but if that's the draw-back to climbing snow/icy hills like a goat it was worth it to them. Plus it could tow two horses quite well in a pinch. I'm not aware of anything that compares to a V8 JGC in terms of power, ability, and comfort. Several makes have the comfort down to a science, but stick lame V6's in them. The new 4runner coming in the fall should be good competition. I may wait until the fall to see if it's worth it. Overall I agree the domestic SUV's aren't as reliable/tight/etc but Toyota/Nissan doesn't have much available with a real motor. Anyone that intends to tow is limited to a full-size or a JGC unless they want an V8 explorer but like mentioned above, those are pretty much cheaply built fleet vehicles in my book.
  • abc246abc246 Posts: 305
    Don't even think for a minute that I think the Blazer is a good SUV. GM should be forced to buyback every one of them on the offset crash test score alone. They are pure junk in my book. Now, to my surprise, I have been test driving some used JGC Limiteds thinking I was going to upgrade and found that vibration and gear whine is like driving a 20 year old pickup truck. I am trying to buy American and I don't think I will be able too. If I was going to use this SUV off road 100% I would buy the JGC, but I plan on doing a lot of highway driving at high speeds. You should hear these Jeeps at 85 mph, they actually sound like something is going to lock up. Do they make non Quadra-drive V8s? Would the noise be less?
  • MY 02 JGC has the pitiful stock CD deck and speaker system. I should have known better. BUT i have a new Eclipse that I plan to install. HAs anyone popped the rear panels to replace speakers OR can you steer me toward some instructions on this ?

    Thanks
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,231
    My in-laws ltd did not whine anywhere near a level you're describing and it was the quadra-drive. There was some whine, but was most noticable when coasting. I had her well into the 85+ range on a few trips and it was fairly quiet. I think you're driving some well ragged machines, and my in-laws are not easy on a vehicle by any stretch of the imagination. I'm not sure what was available all years, as it's changed. Currently you can get V8 with the Selec-trac. I know prior to '99 you could get a V8 with the Selec-trac because that's what they had before this last one.
  • jbaderjbader Posts: 2
    Hi,

    2001 JGC. The dealer replaced the master brake cylinder but the pedal can still be depressed to the floor.

    There is also a whooshing sound from the pedal when it is depressed.

    Any ideas?
    Thanks,
    Jack
  • eenglisheenglish Posts: 22
    To paramedic99. Here's some info on speaker replacement.

    The pictures didn't make it

    I have a '99 JGC and replaced the stock tape deck with a CD player.

    If you have the same stock speakers as my 99, you might hold off on changing the speakers until you change the deck. The kid that changed my deck at the Best Buy said it had a built in power amp and the speakers were very good.

    Personally I think after changing the deck the speakers sound great. Even my son thinks they're great and he had a custom system in his car with a bass tube and mine blows it away.

    REMOVAL

    Instrument Panel Speaker

    1.Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable.
    2.Remove the top cover from the instrument panel. Refer to Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators/Instrument Panel/Instrument Panel
    Top Cover Replacement for the procedures.

    Instrument Panel Speaker Remove/Install

    3.Disconnect the instrument panel wire harness connector from the speaker wire harness connector.
    4.Remove the two screws that secure the speaker to the top of the instrument panel.
    5.Remove the speaker from the top of instrument panel. Front Door Speaker

    1.Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable.
    2.Remove the trim panel from the front door.

    Front Door Speaker Remove/Install

    3.Remove the four screws that secure the speaker to the front door inner panel.
    4.Pull the speaker away from the front door inner door panel far enough to access the front door wire harness connector.
    5.Disconnect the front door wire harness connector from the speaker connector receptacle.
    6.Remove the speaker from the front door inner panel. Rear Door Speaker

    1.Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable.
    2.Remove the trim panel from the rear door.

    Rear Door Speaker Remove/Install

    3.Remove the three screws that secure the speaker to the rear door inner panel.
    4.Pull the speaker away from the rear door inner panel far enough to access the rear door wire harness connector.
    5.Disconnect the rear door wire harness connector from the speaker connector receptacle.
    6.Remove the speaker from the rear door inner panel.

    INSTALLATION
    Instrument Panel Speaker

    1.Position the speaker onto the top of the instrument panel.
    2.Install and tighten the two screws that secure the speaker to the top of the instrument panel. Tighten the screws to 2.2 Nm (20 in. lbs.).
    3.Reconnect the instrument panel wire harness connector to the speaker wire harness connector.
    4.Install the top cover onto the instrument panel. Refer to Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators/Instrument Panel/Instrument Panel
    Top Cover for the procedures.
    5.Reconnect the battery negative cable. Front Door Speaker

    1.Position the speaker to the front door inner panel.
    2.Reconnect the front door wire harness connector to the speaker connector receptacle.
    3.Position the speaker onto the front door inner door panel.
    4.Install and tighten the four screws that secure the speaker to the front door inner panel. Tighten the screws to 2.2 Nm (20 in. lbs.) .
    5.Install the trim panel onto the front door.
    6.Reconnect the battery negative cable. Rear Door Speaker

    1.Position the speaker to the rear door inner panel.
    2.Reconnect the rear door wire harness connector to the speaker connector receptacle.
    3.Position the speaker onto the rear door inner panel.
    4.Install and tighten the three screws that secure the speaker to the rear door inner panel. Tighten the screws to 2.2 Nm (20 in. lbs.) .
    5.Install the trim panel onto the rear door.
    6.Reconnect the battery negative cable.
  • eenglisheenglish Posts: 22
    I can't take it any more

    I recently gave my 99 JGC to my son and bought a Highlander. I couldn't take the reliability problems.

    I have 30,000 miles on it and I'm on my 3'rd set of new rotors and they're warped after less than 5,000 miles; even with replacing the pads and putting on the 'good' rotors and I baby the brakes. Replaced both windows motors, front differential overhaul, wiper problems so I can't see in the snow and other problems.

    The Jeep looks a lot better that the Highlander and will probably be better off road than the Highlander but it just isn't fun to drive it any more. I'm always waiting for something else to break and start feeling the inevitable brake pulse.

    Doesn't DC care that I personally short circuted 5-10 sales?

    I wanted to buy American but it doesn't make any sense. In between Toyotas I bought a Buick and it was junk and I bought a Taurus and it was junk. I thought I was insulating myself from the new model problems by buying the old design I6 and transmission, but that didn't help much.

    Although it seems like a lot of people can say "ya, I have to replace the brakes every 5,000 miles, I need transmission overhauls in the time interval you might expect a brake pads, I can't open my window, but I love it."

    I can't in good conscience recommend a Jeep to anyone and wouldn't even have given it to my son if I hadn't done the only smart thing I did in the Jeep dealership and got a 7yr/100,000 mile warrantee.
  • kdshapirokdshapiro Posts: 5,751
    3 years going off lease. Ltd with Quadradrive and V8. When I first picked up the car I had the dealer replace the front leather seat. 12,000 front rotor problems - dealer fixed under warranty. Drive train whine. Every SUV I been in in three years had it, even a Lexus RX/Highlander, CRV, Escape, Explorer. I now am sensitive to it on a lot of cars as well. It comes with the territory. The whine on mine was about par, especially given the fact this thing went through 12 inches of snow like a goat. The air conditioner blows like a freezer, and the heater like a sauna, but the ATC did a lousy job of keeping the car at any comfortable level that I choose.

    Three years later. I haven't been to the dealer in about 8 months, as I brought the car into local oil change places. (edit - when I walked into the dealer today my service advisor remembered me after after 8 months) My five star dealer changed my oil gratis most of the time anyway. Rear passenger window doesn't work and rotor problems. That's it. I don't quite call this a problem vehicle. All cars have problems. Friends Honda tranny went after 2 years and my cousins Honda was just bought back under the lemon law. My mother drained her battery because she left the interior lights on in her $40K RX-300. Never happened to me in my Jeep.

    That's the other side of it. I would have bought another Jeep in a second, but we wanted 7 seats and more cargo room.
  • bigorange30bigorange30 Posts: 1,091
    I have a friend that has a 2000 JGC. She told me that she has to get new rotors every time whe gets the oil changed (4000 miles) She is now on here 6th set at 24 K miles. What's up with these rotors? Is there a recall or TSB?
  • kkuligkkulig Posts: 150
    Bigorange30...

    Warped brake rotors have been a chronic problem on DC vehicles ever since they started putting them on vehicles in the 60's, and on every JGC since they came out in 93.

    Someone out here once wrote a very technical post on why this is happening. I'm not a metallurgist like this guy appeared to be, but in a nutshell, here's why DC hasn't and won't do anything about the problem...

    The name of the game today in the corporate world is "cost reduction" and to "maximize profit" and they lean quite heavily on their part suppliers to lower their production costs. The end result is cheaper material, less material used in the part, fewer machining steps, etc.

    Take all the complaints on JGC axle whine for instance. DC leaned on Dana Corp to cost reduce the axles they supply. There were several good articles on this awhile back. Dana changed from a traditional cast iron differential housing to one made from aluminum. They also eliminated several machining processes in production... all to reduce DC's cost. The end result is a noisy axle. Dana's reputation and stock price has taken a major hit for this in the last couple of years.

    Brake rotors are made so cheap and thin today that you're barely able to machine turn the rotors once to try and eliminate a warpage problem. Remember how many times you could resurface a rotor in the 70's if this problem appeared? You could easily expect a 50-60K mile life from a set of brake rotors back then. At least you could on a GM vehicle that is.

    The other reason DC won't address the problem is that they tell the dealers not to replace warped rotors if over 12K miles because they're a normal wear item and not covered beyond the basic 12K warranty. That's the loophole they use to weasle out of the problem. That's corporate policy and you can rest assured that this is the same approach used by the other vehicle manufacturers. DC isn't the only one with brake rotor problems.

    At best, they'll offer to turn the rotors because that's cheaper than replacing them. They know that it's a temporary fix but are hoping that it will last beyond the 12K warranty limit. After that, it's your problem and you're on your own. A voluntary recall and replacement would obviously be very costly. That certainly doesn't fit in well with today's corporate policy of maximizing shareholder/corporate profit margins.

    So what are you gaining if you can get the dealer to replace the rotors? Nothing. The Mopar replacement rotors are every bit as poor as the OEM rotors (same supply, right?). All you're doing is starting the brake rotor problem all over from the beginning. You'll be right back to square-one after only a few K miles of driving. If you have to replace rotors, go with any decent aftermarket rotor. It'll cost you a fraction of what the dealer will charge and I'd be willing to bet (from my own experience) that you'll never have a rotor problem again.

    As for recalls on the rotors... the only one I'm aware of was one issued for 93-97(?) vehicles sold in the "rust belt" states that use a lot of road salt in the winter. They claimed that the rotors could excessively corrode and the rotor could end up separating from the hub. DC had to replace those rotors. If there are any TSB's, they probably say nothing more than the rotor needs to be resurfaced.
  • milousmilous Posts: 39
    paramedic99, here is a page with some detailed info and photos for the JGC audio system:

    http://www.wjjeeps.com/jlaudio.htm
  • Thanks alot for all this great information. I will try the factory speakers first as you suggest - maybe they with a new deck will sound better. Thanks again I will keep you posted.
  • THanks for the info. The pictures are great.
  • kw_carmankw_carman Posts: 114
    A relative of mine's co-worker has a JGC (95 or so) with 150,000 miles on it for sale. I have always thought that the Grand Cherokee looked nice, but have heard of all of the gaud-awful problems. He is selling it for $3500. It was used as a salesman's car for a local air conditioning company, and is in great condition. I don't know much more, but it sounds like a great deal. I would like a JGC or something similar to be the car I take to college. Should I look at it?
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    I have a 2000 JGC Limited with the Quadra Drive. Patriot Blue, grey leather, towing, everything... just want a DVD in it now. :)

    My problems are such:
    leaks from the differential (front) and transfer case
    dead battery

    Other than that, it is has been a great vehicle. The tranny is quiet on our car and we live in the mountains. If somebody is replacing their brakes every 4000 miles, I would suggest they start driving with their foot off the brake pedal. :)

    We use the tranny for slowing down on the hills, letting the engine compression do it's magic. After 59,000, I am having to finally start looking at replacing the pads. There is no rotor issue at all on my car.

    The leaks piss me off, but we knew of transmission issues with Jeeps from the get-go. We bought the 7/100 warranty too. Best thing we did.

    -Paul
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    paul,

    You might instead say the leaks upset you, annoy you, make you angry, enfuriate you or drive you crazy. :-)

    tidester
    Host
    SUVs; Aftermarket & Accessories
  • fastdriverfastdriver Posts: 2,273
    tidester HOST-

    WHY? "Piss me off" is more with today's vernacular and to the point! ;-)) Don't tell me this is going to be banned too?

    fastdriver
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    Nah - it won't be banned and I'm not making an issue of it. I was just offering alternative forms of expression which I think are more becoming of GCers! :-)

    tidester
    Host
    SUVs; Aftermarket & Accessories
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Okay, to rephrase my emotional condition... :)

    The issue of fluid containment in my 4 wheeled propulsion mechanism effected my bodily condition to react in a similar fashion. :)

    I will add though, that since my last service, no new leaks have shown up. I believe that the last time around, I made such an issue of it, they examined and I believe replaced all the seals on my transmission to keep it from happening again. Kudos to them for taking a proactive approach and keeping me out of the shop for that.

    Now... my battery died. :) Replaced it with an Interstate and everything is great again. I've never had good results with batteries in American (GM and Jeep) vehicles. I consider it a wear and tear item.

    -Paul
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    Nicely done!

    tidester
    Host
    SUVs; Aftermarket & Accessories
  • fastdriverfastdriver Posts: 2,273
    erickpl-

    Nah.......... too wordy! PO'd was more to the point without excessive verbiage! ;-))))))

    fastdriver
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    Some of us prefer elegance! ;-)

    tidester
    Host
    SUVs; Aftermarket & Accessories
  • fastdriverfastdriver Posts: 2,273
    tidester HOST-

    :-)))) I seem to have lost my class!

    fastdriver
  • zonkzonk Posts: 208
    A rain/windstorm passed through yesterday while my wife was out driving her 2000 JGC. She heard a sharp crack and saw that the passenger side mirror had been busted. If the electronics are ok, can the mirror only be replaced, or does the whole assembly need replacing?
  • milousmilous Posts: 39
    Yes, you can now get just the glass replaced:

    OUTSIDE REARVIEW MIRROR GLASS REPLACEMENT
    Date: 09/2001

    Bulletin # 2302701

    Model year(s): 1999-2002

    Description: Outside rearview mirror glass replacement.

    Details: It is no longer necessary to replace the entire mirror assembly when the mirror glass is broken or is missing. Mirror glass holders are now available from MOPAR.
  • kw_carmankw_carman Posts: 114
    I am looking around and researching at used JGC's (mostly pre-redesign ones), and was noticing the dreadful reliability problems on certain models. From what I have seen, 1997-98 were its better years as far as reliability goes. Can somebody help me out?
  • cdh2513cdh2513 Posts: 1
    I am in the process of purchasing a 2001 JGC. Thought I would check to see if this is a good idea. This one has a lot of options: White, 31k, V8, Factory 10 disc CD and cassette, leather, power sunroof, heated seats, cruise, tint, etc.

    The asking price was 22K but the dealer will go for 20K - sound reasonable?

    I appreciate any feedback - I am new to SUV's and I don't want to regret my decision.

    Thanks in advance.
  • kdshapirokdshapiro Posts: 5,751
    A couple of months after I got my 99 JCL LTD, backing out of the garage the passenger mirror caught the side of garage. Ouch. Busted the mirror to pieces but the exterior was untouched. $135 later dealer replaced just the glass. Since then I've learned to watch where I back up. :)
  • tloke1tloke1 Posts: 185
    "Busted the mirror to pieces but the exterior was untouched. $135 later dealer replaced just the glass"

    I think that dealer bent you over a long, long way...
Sign In or Register to comment.