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Nissan Quest Engine Problems

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  • Radiator Cooling Fan always ON – Fix.

    Sorry for the long post, but it has the 'Fix' too:

    9/16/07:
    I hope some one can help me also whith an issue that I have with my 2000 Nissan Quest GXE. I've had it since Oct 2003 when it had only 52K miles on it. Now it has about 113K miles.
    Recently, I had my Radiator fan ON all the time while the car/engine is on. Intially, when the problem surfaced, I had a 'plastic burning' smell inside my car. Found a 'burnt' fan relay in the fuse box.
    Had the computer scanned and the following code came up: P0325 which according to the computer, it is a 'knock sensor issue'. Now, a mechanic I know told me it would take about 5.2 hours of labor and about $190 for parts.
    Does this make sense? I mean, the 'knock sensor issue' causing my fan relay to burn and the radiator fan to be on all the time.
    Now he told me that the Radiator fan being on all the time is not a big issue, but that I should change the sensor.
    What do you think?

    9/10/07:
    Hi,
    Here is an update on what I've done so far, but it hasn't been fixed yet.
    I decided to troubleshoot this issue. From reading here in the web, I learned that this is supposed to be a 2-speed fan (Hi and Lo). Also, I looked at the relay box and learned that 2 relays are for the 'Hi' and one of these was the one the burnt. Also, none of the cables/wires are burned. Any ways, I have installed 2 good relays here and the fan still on. These relays are 'normally open' until 12v are applied. So when I check the car, as soon as I turn the key to the 'accessories' ON, I measure 12 volts at the inputs of the relays and so the fan is suppossed to be on because it closes/completes the circuit. This isn't normal as the car is cool because it was parked all night.
    So, this tells that something is sending the signal to always turn the fan on. So, the first thing I supected and changed was the 'water temperature sensor'. This did not fix it. I went ahead and replaced the entire radiator fan assembly. This did not fix the problem. I spent about $300 for this so far.
    Now, I talked to my mechanic and we learned that the ECM is what controls the radiator fan, among other things like the AC and engine speed; on this 2000 Nissan Quest. So now he recommends replacing the ECM on this car and says that the part will be very expensive - about $700 bucks. He suggested I find a used one somewhere and he will replace it for me.
    So here I go. I will hunt one of these down and see what happens...
    Will update later.

    9/12/07:
    Hi,
    So, I finally had my 2000 Nissan Quest scanned by the Nissan Dealer in my area. They charge $135.00 just for scanning the computer (ECM) and reflashing it if it needs it. I told them about the issue I am having with my car and about the parts that I have already replaced.
    They didn't find anything with the scan and told me that the computer was not sending any codes. So, they looked at all the wiring that leads to the ECM and said that there was a 'short' somewhere. When they verified that all the wires were OK, they went ahead and removed the ECM. They opened the ECM and found two burn wires/contacts. They then told me that for sure the ECM needs to be replaced. They gave me a quote fro $1,500.77 just for the new ECM. I was very shocked.
    So I told them 'No thanks' and asked them to put my car back together. The car is now back with me and it still has the radiator fan issue.
    So, I did a search on the web and found a 'used parts' site where you can request any auto parts and they send your request all over to see if anyone is selling it. I got back 10 emails from several places that say they have my ECM. The cheapest is $150.00 to the most expensive of $499.00.
    I opted to buy it from a place in Sacramento California for about $175.00 with a 6-month warranty. It is called sunrisenissan.net and they specialize in selling used nissan (and Kia) parts. Well, let's see how this turns out. I will post once I get the part replaced/installed.

    10/01/07:
    Hi,
    Just came back to inform everyone that my "Radiator Fan Issue" has been fixed.
    From my previous post, I/we narrowed it down to the ECM. I received the part about 10 days ago and I finally had a chance to change it this weekend. The one thing that the 'salvage' place told me was that it might need to be reprogrammed. But that's fine. I was more worried about getting the correct part. This is why: The dealer will give you a part number which really is not the same part number on the ECM it self. Most places that sell these 'used' ECMs want the part number that's on the ECM to match it 100%. I didn't know what this number was except that it starts with: MECM-XXX-XXX. So that's why I felt I took a chance ordering the used ECM without knowing the part number.
    Any ways, because I didn't know where exactly the ECM in the car was, I asked my mechanic about it. He told me it was under the dashboard, almost to the left of the front-passanger airbag. I told him I wanted to see the Original ECM in my car so that I can compare the part number with the used one.
    When I got home, I took the glove box and some other 'pannels' off to see if I could see or access the ECM. I was able to see it, but could NOT see the numbers. So, I decided to remove it my self. Note, you must remove a metal bar that sits infront of it. It's not hard. Once you do that, there are only 2 screws holding the ECM to the car. Once you unscrew these 2 screws, you have to unscrew the one screw that holds the connector (and wires) to the ECM. Once the connector is out of the way, you have to 'wiggle' the ECM and pull it out at an angle (with its rear lifted up and its front pulled down).
    Since I got it out, I compared the part numbers and most numbers matched. Only 4 numbers, which were at the end of the sequence, did not match. (I don't have those numbers with me but I have them in my car. I will post them when I get them). So I decided to try/install this used ECM to see, not only if it fixed my problem, but if my car would start. Once I screwed the connector on, I tried it by turning the 'accessories' ON. It worked. The Fan would not come on at all. I then turned the ignition/car ON and it did start fine. The engine ran good. So, I decided to leave the used ECM in and put everything else back together. I drove my car for a few miles and it ran fine. The radiator FAN problem was definitely fixed.
    I then took a 150 mile trip and the car ran great. It is still running great. The radiator fan is working the way it should. It turns ON only when the water temperature rises.

    Here is the Part Number that’s on the ECM:
    Original P/N:(Went bad -wires Radiator Fan 'ON' burnt inside ECM):
    _______PPZ_________
    _______YFCD________

    Used P/N(bought from Salvage place - now installed and works good):
    ______PPZ_________
    ______YFCD________
    MECM-C716 A1 0609
    Notice that the last 4 characters are different (9Z09 vs 0609). In my case, this didn't matter as my problem was fixed and m
  • Hi,
    Because of the my long post, the Part Number information was not posted. Here it is for those who need it.

    Here is the Part Number that’s on the ECM:

    Original P/N:(Went bad -wires Radiator Fan 'ON' burnt inside ECM):

    PPZ
    YFCD
    MECM-C716 A1 9Z09

    Used P/N(bought from Salvage place - now installed and works good):

    PPZ
    YFCD
    MECM-C716 A1 0609

    Notice that the last 4 characters are different (9Z09 vs 0609). In my case, this didn't matter as my problem was fixed and my car is running good.
    As far as PPZ and YFCD, I don't know what those mean/are, but they matched.
    Good luck to all of you who have this problem. Let me know if I can be of any assistance here.

    BL
  • You DA MAN!

    Power of internet and sharing information with strangers. I have really enjoyed reading your step by step process troubleshooting your car. I came to figure out where ECM was for my villager and I found your information useful. Thanks.
  • The van is overheating usually when at idle, and there is a coolant leak sometimes which seems to drip down towards the oil filter. Its a 95 villager. Do you think its the waterpump or ???
  • jeffgcjeffgc Posts: 2
    Does anyone know where the air relief cap for the heater pipe is on a 1994 Nissan 3.0 V6I need to bleed the cooling system and the manual says to" find the air relief cap for the heater pipe, connect a 1/4" hose to the air relief fitting and insert the other end of the hose into the coolant reservoir. I can't find it - anybody know?
    thanks,
    jeff
  • choschos Posts: 1
    Hello, I'd like to know if you have found an answer to your problem. I am experiencing a similar problem. I have a '96 Quest,I bought it new in '97. For the past 7 years I have had the problem that it dies all of a sudden in the middle of the road. This only happens in summertime heat and after I have driven it for a few hours. The problem has gotten progressivly worse, as in more frequent and after shorter and shorter periods of driving. After 30 minutes on the side of the road it cranks right up and I drive away. I have had it to numerous dealers and mechanics but no one seems to be able to figure this out. I am at witts end and ready to shove some dynomite up it's butt since the last time almost got me killed out on the interstate. I'm now afraid to drive it any distance. Can anyone help here?
  • It was the waterpump, the coolant was coming from the bottom seep hole in the waterpump. The condition of the belt was poor. I changed the timing belt at the same time as the waterpump because the lower timing belt cover has to be removed to access the pump. I also changed the ac belt, waterpump belt, alternator belt, and the thermostat. It cost me $188 for all the parts, and my labor was free lol. the tools i needed : 3/8 ratchets, and extendtions, 8mm, 10mm, 12mm sockets. 1 1/16 socket, 1/2 impact gun, and steering wheel type puller for the crankshaft pulley. I also used a 5/8 spark plug socket to remove no 1 plug to check for top dead centre. Thats about it. hope this helps somebody.
  • carzzzcarzzz Posts: 282
    so did they replace the engine for free ?
  • It is the distributor...change it for a new one or a rebuit one...new ones cost about $600-700.
  • mikek847mikek847 Posts: 12
    Do you mean the whole distributor assembly with shaft and all? What in the distributor assembly causes this to run rough? Is this a common problem for that particular engine? Your more detailed input would be greatly appreciated. :confuse:
  • Is the 1/2 impact gun you used in a shop with over 120psi or is it another type? I have my car on the drive way and failing to remove the crankshaft pulley. :confuse: Any suggestions to hold the pulley from moving?
  • I used an electric impact gun and a steering wheel type puller, you might be able to use a ratchet with the puller.
  • denhamdenham Posts: 76
    2000 Quest with 130, 000ML runs good when cold, when engine gets hot or well warmed up cant speed up, misses and cuts out.have checked exhaust. There is no codes showing except knock sensor.Any detailed help or information will be most appreciated.
  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,968
    My '99 Quest threw a knock sensor code around 125,000 miles. Wound up replacing it and three injectors. I don't really trust that the indy mechanic knew what he was doing with the injectors. It's running and getting the same mpg as before but it's not as smooth as it was before. It was barely running after the CEL came on though; didn't matter if it was hot or cold. Missing, cutting out and you could smell the unburnt gas coming out of the exhaust.

    The knock sensor is buried pretty good and just replacing that could run $500 to $700. Knock sensors run ~$175 and labor is 5.2 hours.

    Please report back on how it goes.
  • Trust me, knock sensor is a symptom, not the problem. Go and get a rebuilt or used distributor from the wreckers, I stupidly spent thousands trying to fix this problem, this is a common problem with villagers and quests .... Distributor ...try it and repost.
  • There is a small photo sensor deep inside the distributor which gets fouled up with carbon and heat stress over time... find a good distrutor and clear the codes, you should be ok.....
  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,968
    About 5,000 miles before my CEL threw the knock sensor code, I had replaced my plugs, wiring and cap. fwiw...
  • i had changed - new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, injector flush, coil, cataclic convertor, o2 sensor, knock sensor, neg battery cable, ..before i went to a nissan dealer who told me in 20 min that it was the distrubtor....i spent thousands ..i was so stupid not to take it to the nissan dealer first.
  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,968
    I had just changed my stuff on general principles - didn't want the plugs to completely seize or a belt to break since everything was original at 125k. Never fails - been better off just to ignore the preventative maintenance.

    And my indy mechanic wasn't too impressive either and I doubt that the dealer would have charged much more.
  • denhamdenham Posts: 76
    Yes with the help of this board I found the problem with the 2000 Nissan Quest, The
    distributor was the problem after getting warmed up and yet would run good when first started cold. I found the bearing in the distributors after the lubricant wears off from age and miles get hot and making the distributor get hot and this being the problem.
    Some oil down the distributor shaft say ever 50,000 I feel will help, but this is a problem and a new distributor with this design will we not have the same problem at a later date once the bearing lubricant wears off?
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