Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Nissan Quest Engine Problems

2456

Comments

  • Is the 1/2 impact gun you used in a shop with over 120psi or is it another type? I have my car on the drive way and failing to remove the crankshaft pulley. :confuse: Any suggestions to hold the pulley from moving?
  • I used an electric impact gun and a steering wheel type puller, you might be able to use a ratchet with the puller.
  • denhamdenham Posts: 76
    2000 Quest with 130, 000ML runs good when cold, when engine gets hot or well warmed up cant speed up, misses and cuts out.have checked exhaust. There is no codes showing except knock sensor.Any detailed help or information will be most appreciated.
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 40,129
    My '99 Quest threw a knock sensor code around 125,000 miles. Wound up replacing it and three injectors. I don't really trust that the indy mechanic knew what he was doing with the injectors. It's running and getting the same mpg as before but it's not as smooth as it was before. It was barely running after the CEL came on though; didn't matter if it was hot or cold. Missing, cutting out and you could smell the unburnt gas coming out of the exhaust.

    The knock sensor is buried pretty good and just replacing that could run $500 to $700. Knock sensors run ~$175 and labor is 5.2 hours.

    Please report back on how it goes.

    Moderator
    Need help navigating? stever@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • Trust me, knock sensor is a symptom, not the problem. Go and get a rebuilt or used distributor from the wreckers, I stupidly spent thousands trying to fix this problem, this is a common problem with villagers and quests .... Distributor ...try it and repost.
  • There is a small photo sensor deep inside the distributor which gets fouled up with carbon and heat stress over time... find a good distrutor and clear the codes, you should be ok.....
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 40,129
    About 5,000 miles before my CEL threw the knock sensor code, I had replaced my plugs, wiring and cap. fwiw...

    Moderator
    Need help navigating? stever@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • i had changed - new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, injector flush, coil, cataclic convertor, o2 sensor, knock sensor, neg battery cable, ..before i went to a nissan dealer who told me in 20 min that it was the distrubtor....i spent thousands ..i was so stupid not to take it to the nissan dealer first.
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 40,129
    I had just changed my stuff on general principles - didn't want the plugs to completely seize or a belt to break since everything was original at 125k. Never fails - been better off just to ignore the preventative maintenance.

    And my indy mechanic wasn't too impressive either and I doubt that the dealer would have charged much more.

    Moderator
    Need help navigating? stever@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • denhamdenham Posts: 76
    Yes with the help of this board I found the problem with the 2000 Nissan Quest, The
    distributor was the problem after getting warmed up and yet would run good when first started cold. I found the bearing in the distributors after the lubricant wears off from age and miles get hot and making the distributor get hot and this being the problem.
    Some oil down the distributor shaft say ever 50,000 I feel will help, but this is a problem and a new distributor with this design will we not have the same problem at a later date once the bearing lubricant wears off?
  • I'm new here and was reading everything and it sounds I might be in the same boat as most of you...I have a 97 villager that is running rough and when stopped at a light you can hear the rumbleing 'brrrrrr" sound but when I put it in neutral as I wait for the light to change the rumbleing subsides and the engine runs smoother. Now I just got finished having to have it serviced to pass a smog test and 2 codes came up one of which was the knock sensor but they didn't replace it cause they said that it was not the reason for the CEL to come on, so they didn't...they just replaced what they called a EGRC-BPT valve and it passed the smog test. Could this knock sensor be the problem?....I am scared that it might be a tranny problem but then I saw all this talk about the distributor....any opinions???
  • denhamdenham Posts: 76
    The Knock Sensor has to do with the timing or spark to the spark plug at he correct timing, and this comes from the distributor. The one we replaced would get hot after
    driving because of the bearing failure on the inside of the distributor from age and miles. After driving I put my hand on the side of the distributor and found it more hot than the rest of the engine is how I found the problem. You can order a new distributor
    complete on Ebay Motors for much less, and changing out is no problem if you mark the rotor button on the old one before removable and set the new one in the same.
  • I have 97 Quest with 180K miles and engin running rough. You said you have 2 code come up. (I know one is knock sensor). What is EGRC-BPT and did replacing that stop the engin from running rough?

    I have 2 CEL code and my other code is engin misfire. It does not specify which cylinder but random misfire is detected.

    I've been following this thread, (thanks to the board, it send you e-mail when new posting is entered) and distributor problem does not triger ramdom misfire code. Only knock sensor. Besides my Quest is running rough even when engin is cold (althogh this hard to notice because when cold engin is running fast).

    Your input would be appreciated. Thanks.

    mikek847@yahoo.com
  • What I do not know is the symtoms of this problem when distributor bearing is out. What symtoms do you see? So far, I've seen from posts:

    1. engin running rough when engine is hot.
    2. CEL code of knock sensor

    I want to be sure if the distributor is the villien for engin running rough before replacing the distributor. With 180K miles on my 97 Quest, I am pretty sure the baring on the shaft is out. Does CEL code of random cylinder misfire also come on if the distributor is bad? I wanna know.
  • denhamdenham Posts: 76
    Being a 1997 with the miles and age is also a problem and maybe lucky that it can still go if it has not had proper care. The distributor is the hart of the engine and when it does not work correct you may get a knock code, miss or what ever. It being a 1997 and unless it has had proper care, you may have more that just one problem!
  • I have compiled the problem and solutions that was posted on the board so far on the engine issues mainly two issues. Engine running rough and knock sensor on CEL. I am not sure if those two are related but I know the injector can also cause the problem similar problem. Replacement of injectors, replacement of knock sensor or replacement of distributor assembly are all costly expenses and I would like to relate problems with symptoms if possible.

    Efitzgerald posted following problem and solution:
    Started fine and ran fine until it got warm, then it sputtered/misfired and the rpm would dance. Solved this problem by titening ground wire of ECM. Also posed that small photo sensor inside the distributor could cause the problem too.

    chos posted following problem:
    For the past 7 years I have had the problem that it dies all of a sudden in the middle of the road. This only happens in summertime heat and after I have driven it for a few hours. The problem has gotten progressively worse, as in more frequent and after shorter and shorter periods of driving. After 30 minutes on the side of the road it cranks right up and I drive away.

    denham posted following problem and solution:
    Runs good when cold, when engine gets hot or well warmed up can’t speed up, misses and cuts out. There are no codes showing except knock sensor. Both efitzgerald and denham agrees and denham has solved this problem by replacing the distributor assembly.

    Auto_Dummy posted following problem:
    Engine running rough and when stopped at a light you can hear the rumbling 'brrrrrr" sound but when I put it in neutral as I wait for the light to change the rumbling subsides and the engine runs smoother. Now I just got finished having to have it serviced to pass a smog test and 2 codes came up one of which was the knock sensor but they didn't replace it cause they said that it was not the reason for the CEL to come on, so they didn't...they just replaced what they called a EGRC-BPT valve and it passed the smog test.

    steve posted following problem:
    Threw a knock sensor code around 125,000 miles. Wound up replacing it and three injectors. I don't really trust that the indy mechanic knew what he was doing with the injectors. It's running and getting the same mpg as before but it's not as smooth as it was before. It was barely running after the CEL came on though; didn't matter if it was hot or cold. Missing, cutting out and you could smell the unburned gas coming out of the exhaust.

    Mikek847 posted following problem:
    I have 97' Quest GXE with 150K miles

    Problem 1: Eperiencing engine running rough. At times the CEL light comes on with following two codes:
    P0325 Knock Sensor 1 Curcuit
    P0300 Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire
    Problem 2: Summer time when outside temperature is high, and I've driven for more then an hour. Especially on the freeway sitting in traffic jam with an air on. Engine looses power drastically; engine knocks whenever an accelerator is pressed and engine temperature rises (not to the dangerous level but higher then normal). But then when the stop & go traffic is freed, the problem goes away.
  • denhamdenham Posts: 76
    Mike from what I read your problem seems in the distributor, there is a bearing on the shaft that gets dry of lubrication from age and miles and wears out and the pickup
    eye and coil do not work once they get hot. You can find a distributor on Ebay.
    Get back with me!
  • RB251RB251 Posts: 1
    When I stop at an intersection and have my foot on the brake in drive. The idle drops down and up. Sometimes it does it once and sometimes several times. I tried the timing belt and now the distributor. When I picked the van up after the timing belt I drove it for 15 minutes or so and when I stopped at a stop sign the idle would drop down and up. It was more like a bump in the idle, like when the air compressor kicks on. When I accelerate it goes back to normal. I changed the distributor yesterday and talked to my mechanic. He let the van run in gear and it never changed the idle . He drove it for about 15 minutes and when he returned to the shop the idle bumped 1 time. What next? OR do I just drive it a day or 2 to see if it works itself out with the new distributor?
  • :sick: CEL decodes to bad "bank 1, sensor 1" oxygen sensor and the auto parts place can't tell me which O2 sensor is the bank 1 sensor. I'm assuming that "sensor 1" indicates before the cat so I think I just need to find out whether "bank 1" means firewall or radiator side. The number 1 cylinder is on the firewall side if that is any reference.
    My wife has 137,000+ miles on this van and all of the O2 sensors are original so I don't mind changing more than one of the O2 sensors if necessary to clear the CEL. I noticed that Bosch recommends changing O2 sensors every 100,000 miles. Thanks!
  • I may have answered my own question. It appears that we only have two O2 sensors, i.e. a pre and post cat sensor. Got confused looking at a Chilton's where it listed four 02 sensors for the Nissan 3.0L versus two 02 sensors for the Mercury 3.0L whereas the 97 Mercury Villager and the 97 Nissan Quest are nearly the same vehicles!
  • What do you mean when you say eye and coil do not work? If this means optical sensor and coil connection, what are symptoms of these? This would help to diagnose to the pin point, I think. Let us know. Thanks.
  • denhamdenham Posts: 76
    Gets warm or hot you get a knock or miss and little or know pulling power.
    The bearing in the distributor goes bad with age and the coil pickup sensor does not get a good signal. Check E Bay and you can get a new distributor complete for less! Get back with me.
  • I agree 100% with Denham. I spent thousands from inept technicians trying to solve this problem... knock sensor codes and o2 codes are symptoms only. If your older Villager/Quest is running rough when warm/hot dont waste your money like I did....get a replacement distributor
  • I can only find one pre cat HO2 sensor located in the exhaust right after the point where the V6 exhaust pipes come together. A new Bosch OE HO2S didn't clear the CEL so I erased it with the scan tool and it nearly immediately came back on with a P0135 code. Had my mechanic check the wiring this week when he replaced the motor mounts and he said wiring checked out OK, it must be a bad Bosch HO2S. The auto parts place exchanged the Bosch HO2S with another new one and after installation I'm still getting the same CEL code.
  • petakapetaka Posts: 12
    Similar to my problem and nobody answered. Looks like I am up the creek.
    His problem was acceleration going up and down, my van produces a jolt every few seconds while stopped.
    At least now I know it's not a distributor, which I was planning to change. I guess I'll just wait till the computer gives me a code. :cry:
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 40,129
    I've been following this thread but I don't have any ideas either.

    You could try the Got a Quick, Technical Question? discussion or Edmunds Answers. Answers gets a different crowd than the forums.

    Please report back here if you learn anything.

    Steve, visiting host

    Moderator
    Need help navigating? stever@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • petakapetaka Posts: 12
    Well, I just got back from the street. It has been raining all day and somehow the problem has worsen. This time it felt like it was misfiring at every stop light. Accelerate and the problem disappears.
    When I got home I popped the hood and listened to the engine. It makes a ticking sound every time it shakes. Just like the sound it makes after been turned off.
    We are suppose to have a better day tomorrow, so I'll keep searching and hoping for a miracle.
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 40,129
    No check engine light?

    You could swing by an auto parts store and see if any codes are being thrown.

    Moderator
    Need help navigating? stever@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • petakapetaka Posts: 12
    No check engine light, I keep praying for one.
Sign In or Register to comment.