Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Nissan Quest Engine Problems

1246

Comments

  • jaeqstjaeqst Posts: 1
    My 94' Quest dies when I put it into a gear (R or D...). I just replaced the fuel pump so I have eliminated this as a possible problem, any ideas? Thanks in advance for your help. Jaye :confuse:
  • roger40roger40 Posts: 1
    I had the same exact problem, for six months. My son put a new dist . in today,my van runs like new. I bought it on e-bay for $ 148.00, and free shipping, got it in 4 days. Dont fool around with used.
  • 97 Quest with 142,000+ miles and rough idle. Just replaced the distributor with a remanufactured unit for $105 on eBay; so far so good. Great forum advice!
  • have a 97 nissan quest with a 3.0L motor...I have a random cylinder misfire that occurs when cruising at around 45mph at 1500rpm's.. and at wide open throttle the motor looses all power and acts like it hits a rev limiter at 4500rpm's while under load, I have replaced all 6 injectors, cap, rotor, plugs, wires, knock sensor, fuel pump, timing belt,fuel filter, air filter, mass airflow sensor, distributor, ignition coil and the pcv valve with no improvement... I took it to a local Nissan dealer and they said that it is leaning out and when they adjusted the air/fuel ratio (with some computer) it ran great but they don't know what is causing this..the only code that is on the computer is a multiple cylinder misfire.

    The Van has 111,500 miles on it and has been well maintained. any help would be very appreciated, this van has turned into a money pit!
  • mpuraimpurai Posts: 9
    Most likely you'll need to check the catalytic converter. Seems like it's partially blocked and restricts the smooth flow at heavy rpms.
  • mikek847mikek847 Posts: 12
    I have 97 Quest and have about 190K miles on it. I am sorry to hear that you are still having problems after replacing literally ALL POSSIBLE VILLENS. I have a same problem and living with it. The minivan is still in very good shape with only one flaw that is the random cylinder misfire code. Although the engine is running rough when engine is warm, the CEL light is not on all the time. As a result, I can get the emission test passed with out much problem but this engine running rough and random cylinder misfire has been bugging me for a long time because the problem started at about 140K miles. I do not have any suggestion for you but would like to find out what may be the solution if you find out a solution. One difference between your problem and mine is that my CEL light does not come on or looses power at 45 MPH. It comes on at ideal. :confuse:
  • haughhaugh Posts: 12
    1999 Mercury Villager: approx 150,000 miles

    Had a rough engine idle at stop lights. :( Occasionally the knock sensor would be tripped and sometimes another code. Checked vacuum hoses, catalytic converter, had all the belts replaced including timing and water pump, a few other things and eventually replaced the distributor yesterday. Engine appears to run smoothly now at stops. No more rough idle. :D
  • mikek847mikek847 Posts: 12
    I've been folloing this thered for some time now. I've seen posts about this problem and it seems that owners have replaced many parts but still having problem. Yes, there is a chance that the posters with a problem resolved stop posting. I've seen from injectors to blocked air flow. I've seen problem with ECM power connection at the ECM unit. I've seen distributor assembly too. Some people said after the distributor assembly has been replaced, the problem came back. Distributor assembly is pretty expensive to replace.

    Although the symtoms you have described is very much like mine, it seems that your engine is different than mine. Mine has 3.0 liter engine. I have been living with it for last 4~5 years. Please keep me posted if the problem is gone for good. Also if you could e-mail me with the price and the source where you have purchased the distributor assembly, that would be appreciated too. mikek847@yahoo.com. Thanks in advance.
  • honeahonea Posts: 1
    Hi
    I have a 99 Villager with a 3.3 V6. I just put a different motor in it. Since I put the motor in I had rough idle and a hissing noise. I replace the Plenum Intake gaskets all the vacuum hoses. New Plug and wires. I had to use the fuel rail, wiring, and the distributor from the old motor. I have reset the time 3 or 4 times now. The check engine light came on and I checked the codes and it gave me 0135 O2 sensor. I replaced that and I still have the problem. Can anyone help me out to get the hissing noise and the rough idle problem fixed.
    Thank You
  • mits1mits1 Posts: 6
    04' nissan quest that will not rev if in drive it will not rev above 2250-2500 rpm. if accelerator is held it runs ok until this rpm and then starts to die out even stall sometimes if throttle held open??? symptoms sound familiar to anyone. almost like it is starving of fuel.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,915
    Is the check engine light on?

    this could be a number of things but I doubt it is fuel related. It could be related to the ECM or transmission (computer). Any other drivability issues? Does this happen all the time?
  • mits1mits1 Posts: 6
    no check engine light on, yes it is all the time. is ecm/tcm or pcm a common issue with these? from past encounters the computer is not usually the problem. and one of the more $ parts
  • denhamdenham Posts: 76
    Most often I have found the engine light on because of gas tank vent, such as loose
    or bad gas cap or the vent valve stuck open. The computer does a cycle ever so often
    and maintains the vent pressure build up in the gas tank and vapor canister, and if the purge valve sticks open the computer gives a check engine light and code as the pressure is not in the vapor storage tank when called for.
    I would say you have a bad gas cap or open purge valve or a leak in a line or the stowage canister.
    You may try taking a battery cable off and turn the key on in order to reset the computer, but if the light goes out it will come back when the computer does a cycle
    if the vapor pressure is not there,
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,915
    The ECM (Electronic Control Module) is a common problem with this generation Quest. The placement of the ECM makes it susceptible to excessive moisture and corrosion. It does cause problems that may lead you to believe it is fuel related since it does control many of these functions. The ECM is expensive but is covered by the 8 yr/80,000 mile emission warranty.

    Since there is no "check engine" light, the best thing you can do is have a mechanic troubleshoot the problem. I would have the mechanic scan for codes event though the CEL is not on. Make sure they are aware that it happens all the time. A good mechanic should be able to isolate the problem. let us know how it ends up.
  • I have read many posts regarding the distributor and rough idle. Most refer to the '99 year which has the internal module. Mine is external, as is the coil. My problem has not gotten better after changing plugs, cap, rotor, IAC, wires, cleaning the MAF. After warming up it will chug in park, you can feel that the exhaust is not coming out smooth, and stumble/lurch forward at stop lights. I have looked at the dist photo eye which looked clean. How can I tell for sure it is the distributor. The CEL is not "on". It has good acceleration and does not die while driving. Has anyone else solved this problem on the 93-98 model years? '99 model year went to a 3.3 L engine.
  • njcodanjcoda Posts: 1
    Ok so I have a 94 quest. I am poor and this is only vehicle... Firts problem was water pump and thermostat. changed replaced both. no more overheating. 2wks later drove vehicle 100miles, gave it an oil change and plug change, ran nice. out of nowhere after an appointment she refused to start. had to get a local mechanic to tow and repair. 300 bucks later a new fuel pump was installed, and the crank but will not start prob fixed. or so I thought. 2 days later while driving she just started bogging down and shut off on a hill. as if starved for gas. cranks but no start. towed to friends house. we then changed fuel filter thinking clogged. Nope. cranks but no start. next up was fuel relay on injecter rail, changed that. No start. pulled hose from top of filter, flow SEEMS ok, no tool to test presure. squirted ALOT when key turned on fuel pump. left car sit. put a battery in that was laying around and just for the heck of it tried turning over, and vrooom she turned, but died shortly after running her, 3-5 minutes, as soon as it hit a little incline. vehicle is now stuck again I need HELP please. also where is the OBD port on this ahem vehicle? Thanx
  • Replying to my original post. I took my van to a Nissan dealer. They claimed it was my injectors reading out of range, some high - some low when warmed up. All six were replaced. Van has run fine for 2 weeks. I hope they were right.
  • sounds expensive?
  • my villager just started this missing almost like choking started only after driving about 10 miles or so acts like its going to die has a few times took it in came up with a code p100 mass air flow senser or circut they said the signal drops out intermintenly have no idea what that means we replaced the maf sensor, maf meter or inlet duct, air duct due to crack and air filter box due to crack still having same problem. any help
  • denhamdenham Posts: 76
    Your Distributor just maybe your problem if you have high miles. The bearing on the Distributor shaft gets dry of lubricant with age and miles and as the engine runs the
    Distributor gets hot and you will get this code.
    Before spending any money I would check and replace the Distributor. You can buy one off EBay for less than $150.00.
    Also if you read the posts on the Villager and Nissan Quest you will find it helpful.
    Dennis
  • quest99quest99 Posts: 1
    edited May 2010
    Quest 1999- 6 cyl - 75 k miles
    Car was running fine BUT suddenly Yesterday when started engine it began to shake (blup - blup - blup...)
    - the engine light is now on.
    - It doesn' t stall but in Parking or neutral mode it shakes more that when running (you can feel it);
    - In the expressway it will go hardly to 55 m/h.
    Anyone knows what to do? :cry:
  • rockmobilerockmobile Posts: 112
    If the engine light is on you can take it to an Autozone and they will diagnose the problem for you.
    I also have a 99 Quest that is now pushing 180k with no mayor problems so far.
  • i have a 2004 nissan quest and the ac only blows cold when driving, once you sit at a light in idle the air stops working. I also notice the engine starts running hot , even to where it will overheat and i cant get it started until it cools down. Could this be my radiator fan, water pump? Where do i start, any ideas would help, thankyou email mozley44@yahoo.com
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,915
    You could have a couple of things going on. I would first address the "overheating" issue and have a mechanic look at the cooling system immediately. It could be as simple as a stuck thermostat. Also the overheating can do serious damage to your engine.
  • I just went through similiar issues. I couldnt get any cold air. I was in the process of recharging my ac and the engine overheated. I researched it a bit and sure enough, I found a lot of air in the cooling system. Once I bled it off the engine ran at normal temperatures. Now I have to resolve how the air got in. Your fan should be on if the engine is overheating. Mine was at full speed during the process. Like dtownfb stated the thermostat could be stuck closed. The water pump usually leaks from a weephole when it is going bad.
  • Here is the problems we are having and this is our only vehicle so figuring out the problem is a MUST. A week ago we noticed our Temperature Gauge said the van was running hot so we got out and checked that it wasn't actually running hot at all, all fluids were full and by touching the radiator it was still very cool to the touch. Someone suggested it was possibly the thermostat so we had someone to replace the thermostat for us. Well we would drive down the road a lil bit and the guage again would start rising up saying it was running hot but to the touch it still doesn't appear to be running hot at all. Was suggested that we possibly need to replace the temp sensor, we haven't done that as of yet. We have noticed that the heat isn't heating as it should when u turn the heater on. Last night while on a drive I noticed the gauge slowing rising up getting near close to dangerous levels, we had arrived at our destination and popped the hood, it still felt as if the radiator was cool to the touch upon popping the hood noticed all the fluids had ran back into the resevior well over the max level line. We went to leave several hours later and popped the hood before leaving noticed all fluids had ran back into radiator but after driving a couple of miles back down the road the gauge began to rise again. About 15 miles down the road we heard a small knocking clicking sound and the gauge immediately went back down into the safer normal level rather than on the upper line about to be in the red and stayed there for a lil while it began to rise again after we dropped off the last child we had to take home it did this same thing again and stayed in the normal range until we got home. My husband said he could feel when it did the clicking noise on the gas pedal. Any suggestions as to what could be going on? We have checked for leaks we have found no visible leaks in radiator or waterpump area.
  • the air relief cap is under the throttle body and a little bit behind it. in broad daylight, preferrably with the sun behind you, AND with a flashlight, you should find it in no time. it's there, just keep looking.
  • I blew a by pass hose on my 2000 qwest and now my idle is everywhere. It almost feels like its missing. Any thoughts on this?
  • joesnojoesno Posts: 2
    HEY THIS WAS SO HELPFUL TO ME . I JUST BOUGHT A 01 NISSAN QUEST 135 K AND HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM .NOW I KNOW WHAT IT IS THANKS SO MUCH ....VERY HELPFUL .MORE PEOPLE SHOULD JOIN THESE FORUMS REALLY HELP SAVE MONEY AND TIME
  • joesnojoesno Posts: 2
    edited March 2011
    HAVE AN 01 QUEST 135 K JUST BOUGHT IT FROM PRIVATE SALE AND EVERY OTHER TIME I PRESSED MY BREAKS BREAK PEDAL WOULD FEEL AS IF I WERE FLOORING IT ON ICE .FOR EXAMPLE >MY BREAK PEDAL WOULD STUDDER < SO TOOK IT TO SEVERAL MECHANICS GOT BREAKS BLED .NEW MASTER CYLINDER ECT.ECT. TUNED OUT BEING...CV JOINT . UNDER DRIVERS SIDE RITE BEFORE THE BOOT WAS DANGLING FREELY ROUND THE AXLE. SOME SORT OF BREAK ABS SENCOR .BUT IT WOULD HAVE NEVER GOT NOTICED IF I WOULD NOT HAVE TOLD MECHANIC THE CAR WAS IN ABOUT SIX INCHES OF MUD BEFORE I BOUGHT IT .SO HE GRABED A WIRE BRUSH AND STARTED SCRAPING DRY MUD OFF THAT PART OF AXLE NEXT TO BOOT .WASNT MUCH DIRT ON IT BUT THATS WHEN HE NOTICED THAT LITTLE RING PIECE JUST FLOATING FREELY ROUND AXLE AND SAID OOOHH THATS THE PROMLEM YOU NEED A NEW AXLE . REPLACED IT AND WHALA
    FIXED STUDDERING BREAK PROBLEM..I THINK HE SAID THE LITTLE RING AROUND AXEL WAS SOME SORT OF SENSOR FOR ABS...HOPE THIS HELPS SOMEONE
Sign In or Register to comment.