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Nissan Quest Engine Problems



  • If you wanna waste thousands like me, go ahead. Those are just the same symptoms i had...."Spent thousands" just get a used or new distributor or get a new vehicle, mine was 10 years old (320K) finally had enuf.
  • Unless your service manual requests that you use 93 octane i wouldnt suggest using it. Your van may not need it and its wastefull (dollar wise) . are you buying new distributors? or from the wreckers? if their used, then your probably buying old ditribs with the same problem. hope this helps.
  • mpuraimpurai Posts: 9
    I've always bought new dist and I still seem to have the same problem. Looks like it is the piece of crap van that I have keep sucking money all the time. I thought that I was buying a Nissan and not a Ford.
  • mpuraimpurai Posts: 9
    I'll probably go with Auto Zone - the price is 300.00 for a Cardone Rebuilt with lifetime warranty. Of course I can pick a brand new one for 350.00 with just one year noted, it will go again in one year.
  • jmikelljmikell Posts: 4
    If there is a OReillys Auto parts near by use them. I bought a new Distributor for under $300.
  • jmikelljmikell Posts: 4
    Thanks for all the help you folks have given me.The van starts fine and runs smoothly. Now it has taken to overheating and the cel is on for air mixture . Any sugestion would be aprieciated.
  • mpuraimpurai Posts: 9
    Hey fitzgerald', thanks for all the help; also to others who share their problems and answers which helps greatly for everyone. By the way, this vehicle seems to run very bad with the 89 or 87 octane. I sometimes use it when I'm low on cash. I read somewhere, sometime ago that you get more mileage with using the higher octane of 93 - this is 100 % true, for I've monitored this analogy hundred of times with different vehicles and for sure the other lower octanes burns very fast resulting in less mileage and power; contrary to what I would believe that the higher end gas would burn faster. But it seems that it takes more fuel of 87 and 89 to get the comparative mileage from the same measured gallons of the 93. So, in the end, it really costs more to use the less expensive gas with lower octane - calculated by mileage, quantity and costs. Now I'm wondering if using 93 would have caused damages so I ended up replacing the third distributor within the last four years.
  • mpuraimpurai Posts: 9
    By the way guys, after taking apart the distributor and thoroughly checking the components, I found that the resistor is the culprit. Coil, wires, bearings, (shaft not poling) and harnesses all checked out perfect. Anyway, I bought a Cardone Rebuilt from Auto Zone for $300.00 (w/core return) and lifetime warranty. Installed the distributor, just to find now that the fuel pump is not working. Fuel pump was the first checks I did, dropped the tank, uninstalled the pump, tested for power and pressure and turns out good. Also checked the primary and secondary power - primary good, but no secondary feed to the pump. Now with the new dist. in, there is secondary voltage to the pump but pump will not work anymore. Will update later. Thanks again guys.
  • The crank shaft snout is a weak design. If you change the a/c belt and overtighten the tensioner, you will put excessive side load on the crank and the snout will break. Nissan changed the desig in mid 95 to a 32 mm snout.
    You can buy an engine on ebay for about $350. They even had a new short block for sale in Texas. Did you change the belt recently?

    Go here for expert help on Villager and Quest.
  • mpuraimpurai Posts: 9
    Hey guys, I'm confused here. 99 Quest ignition timing 15 degrees tdc (as per repair manual - disconnect tps harness) and set timing. All sites and manuals shows only one tps sensor harness but in fact there are two harnesses to the tps, one (brown)above the other (Black). Now am I supposed to take off both of them or only the one on top?? Well I did it both ways to see if it causes any difference in the resulted timing after the harness is reconnected and found that it didn't really matter - but I would just like to know what's the correct way of doing it. Thanks All.
  • jaeqstjaeqst Posts: 1
    My 94' Quest dies when I put it into a gear (R or D...). I just replaced the fuel pump so I have eliminated this as a possible problem, any ideas? Thanks in advance for your help. Jaye :confuse:
  • roger40roger40 Posts: 1
    I had the same exact problem, for six months. My son put a new dist . in today,my van runs like new. I bought it on e-bay for $ 148.00, and free shipping, got it in 4 days. Dont fool around with used.
  • 97 Quest with 142,000+ miles and rough idle. Just replaced the distributor with a remanufactured unit for $105 on eBay; so far so good. Great forum advice!
  • have a 97 nissan quest with a 3.0L motor...I have a random cylinder misfire that occurs when cruising at around 45mph at 1500rpm's.. and at wide open throttle the motor looses all power and acts like it hits a rev limiter at 4500rpm's while under load, I have replaced all 6 injectors, cap, rotor, plugs, wires, knock sensor, fuel pump, timing belt,fuel filter, air filter, mass airflow sensor, distributor, ignition coil and the pcv valve with no improvement... I took it to a local Nissan dealer and they said that it is leaning out and when they adjusted the air/fuel ratio (with some computer) it ran great but they don't know what is causing this..the only code that is on the computer is a multiple cylinder misfire.

    The Van has 111,500 miles on it and has been well maintained. any help would be very appreciated, this van has turned into a money pit!
  • mpuraimpurai Posts: 9
    Most likely you'll need to check the catalytic converter. Seems like it's partially blocked and restricts the smooth flow at heavy rpms.
  • mikek847mikek847 Posts: 12
    I have 97 Quest and have about 190K miles on it. I am sorry to hear that you are still having problems after replacing literally ALL POSSIBLE VILLENS. I have a same problem and living with it. The minivan is still in very good shape with only one flaw that is the random cylinder misfire code. Although the engine is running rough when engine is warm, the CEL light is not on all the time. As a result, I can get the emission test passed with out much problem but this engine running rough and random cylinder misfire has been bugging me for a long time because the problem started at about 140K miles. I do not have any suggestion for you but would like to find out what may be the solution if you find out a solution. One difference between your problem and mine is that my CEL light does not come on or looses power at 45 MPH. It comes on at ideal. :confuse:
  • haughhaugh Posts: 12
    1999 Mercury Villager: approx 150,000 miles

    Had a rough engine idle at stop lights. :( Occasionally the knock sensor would be tripped and sometimes another code. Checked vacuum hoses, catalytic converter, had all the belts replaced including timing and water pump, a few other things and eventually replaced the distributor yesterday. Engine appears to run smoothly now at stops. No more rough idle. :D
  • mikek847mikek847 Posts: 12
    I've been folloing this thered for some time now. I've seen posts about this problem and it seems that owners have replaced many parts but still having problem. Yes, there is a chance that the posters with a problem resolved stop posting. I've seen from injectors to blocked air flow. I've seen problem with ECM power connection at the ECM unit. I've seen distributor assembly too. Some people said after the distributor assembly has been replaced, the problem came back. Distributor assembly is pretty expensive to replace.

    Although the symtoms you have described is very much like mine, it seems that your engine is different than mine. Mine has 3.0 liter engine. I have been living with it for last 4~5 years. Please keep me posted if the problem is gone for good. Also if you could e-mail me with the price and the source where you have purchased the distributor assembly, that would be appreciated too. Thanks in advance.
  • honeahonea Posts: 1
    I have a 99 Villager with a 3.3 V6. I just put a different motor in it. Since I put the motor in I had rough idle and a hissing noise. I replace the Plenum Intake gaskets all the vacuum hoses. New Plug and wires. I had to use the fuel rail, wiring, and the distributor from the old motor. I have reset the time 3 or 4 times now. The check engine light came on and I checked the codes and it gave me 0135 O2 sensor. I replaced that and I still have the problem. Can anyone help me out to get the hissing noise and the rough idle problem fixed.
    Thank You
  • mits1mits1 Posts: 6
    04' nissan quest that will not rev if in drive it will not rev above 2250-2500 rpm. if accelerator is held it runs ok until this rpm and then starts to die out even stall sometimes if throttle held open??? symptoms sound familiar to anyone. almost like it is starving of fuel.
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