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Nissan Quest Engine Problems

1235

Comments

  • 6cfw8006cfw800 Posts: 1
    I have a great '94 Quest GXE. Has run like a top for the 4 years I've owned it. @170k, it lopes and runs as though it's missing a few cylinders. It did this for a few blocks, then smoothed out. Again, and smoothed out. Today I started it, and it did this all the way to the dealer. Of course, they want to sell me a bill of goods I may not need. What is causing this?
  • accelerates very slowly and shifts hard. when i finally get it going it runs fine. sometimes it stumbles a lil at idle but other than that it runs great. any suggestions?
  • When was your last tune-up?
  • pluiplui Posts: 5
    I have some problems of Mercury villager, built in 98/99, in last 6 months. I had a mechanic told me that a few sensors had problem, including knock sensor whick is a most expensive, $500 cost, after he scanned with a instrument when th engine light came on. I tried to have a mechanic to replace the knock sensor and fuel pump ( finding out later he did not replaced it), because another mechanic said 'you can tell if someone replace it'. Performance of vehicle did not get better and engine came on again.
    More than 2 weeks ago, I had my friend who worked at home, to inspect my vehicle and he said it needed a tune up and replaced fuel filter because my vehicle started jerking, stalled and quit. Same problem happened again, 1 day after I picked my vehicle.
    He is reluctant to take a look again when I returned the vehicle to him.
    Oh, I forgot to mention it. The vehicle started jerking and stalled after I ran it for 5-6 miles. Should I bring it to dealer to have a computer check?
    Please advise
  • Go to a place like Autozone and have them use a code reader to diagnose the problem(s).
    Some of these vans are known to have distributor failures, and if you have some mechanical ability you could look into it yourself, if not, have your friend take a look at it.
  • Check your air filter. I was experiencing the same scenario with my Quest. Driving along and then poof I would start to lose acceleration as if gas was not getting to the engine.
    The dealer explained that the engine is having difficulty breathing. He checked the air filter and it was wet and debris was blocking the air intake. He said if the engine doesn't get enough air, this can shut the engine down, activate the engine light, make car repair guys perplexed as to the problem and then they start changing spark plugs and fuel pumps when all along it was the air filter!!!!!
    Good luck!
  • I am having the same problem and I am going crazy trying to figure out why it keeps overheating. It is my only vehicle and I dont know what to do. PLEASE HELP ME.
  • pluiplui Posts: 5
    Thank you for someone's reply to my previous question this morning.
    My another question is what is happened if distributor failures. My vehicle Mercury villager 98 or 99 became jerking, idle was slow, engine light came on and die after I ran it 5 or 6 miles. Fortunately, I could crank over again and kept it running in 20 mile mph to a safer place.
    I am appreciated if any one could give me some advice.

    Peter L
  • I have to crank my 99 villager for 10 sec or 20 sec to get it to start. But if I depress the accelerator to the floor, it starts right away. I've inspected the relatively new spark plugs: no problem. After starting, the car runs fine. Also, if I try to start immediately after turning it off, it starts right away.

    Could this be anything but a leaking ejector? In other words, the car is flooding and cranking it for 10-20 sec just purges the rich fuel out of the cylinders. Alternately, if it was a leaking fuel regulator, then turning the ignition on for 5 sec and repeating would pressurize the fuel rail wouldn't it.
  • As a previous poster said, go to autozone or other parts store and have them read the faults. Autozone will give you a printed output so there will be no confusion. You can report that here and see if anyone can diagnose your problem.

    I think that there are many, many possible causes. The fuel filter was a reasonable guess, but just a guess nonetheless.
  • pluiplui Posts: 5
    I found that the screen of scanner showed 4 sensors, P325 & P1336, and other two showed the same sensors/arrow up & down after the engine light came on.

    The problem showed the same when the vehicle started at beginning fine, but the idle became rough and stalled after I kept running more than 5 miles. I tried to put injetor cleaner, gas treatment, and the other one which the bottle is yellow, into gas tank everytime when I filled the gas tank
    more than half.

    May I have someone give me some idea?

    Best Regards,

    Peter
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,915
    P0325 is a knock sensor code. If I remember right, this has to do with the distributor cap. It's a common failure on this vehicle.

    P1336 - pertains to the crankshaft position sensor not operating properly. From what I have read, this may able as simple as replacing the CKP or could indicate an issue with the ECU.

    Hopefully someone can give you more information on the P1336
  • johnnathanjohnnathan Posts: 4
    Here's the situation you two guys got, its kinda the same problem I have had, mine is worse now. Number on Don't have anyone, not even yourself do the cooling system, but Nissan. I have a 1996 mercury Villager, same motor basics. The cooling system must be flushed by the, books say there three bleeder screws when you fill flush and return system anti-freeze. One is to the right on ratiator(plastic -Allen key), the other is on the intake blower just to the right center; by the firewall , the other is by the intake with the plastic off the filter to allunium intake------i couldn't find. Again go to dealer, repeat dealer! My car still has issues. First you should back flush system, this must be done with out the thermost in ([non-permissible content removed]). Then to flush you must have all the paper work or book. At some point the back heater is on high heat and the front is on cold. The the opposite. This is after a back flush. Caution you have Reverse Cooling system!!. You should also blow air in the hearter core lines ReverseLy, as well as rear system heater core. If the car is old like mine, replace REPLACE all heater hoses\\ Don't flush back flush with the hose form house on high, don't Put tape around hose and put the house pressure on to high, system is only 13 lbs. I put small holes in all hoses, from rust inside hose and house pressure at 90 PS I. Now that your flushed.........well drainning you know is at the ratiator left bottom, engine screws are at front bottom block and rear bottom block (13-15mmbolts). Lead system( In dealer ship this is done much easyyer by suction machine causing negitive suction, to the point hoses are collapsed ( just like an air conditioning system) You can't have any, you can't have any air in the block, make sure you put the thermostat in the right direction/the system is a reverse system. Request a blow open thermostat. Put in, not facing block, not facing block!.No put coolant in engine, close engine plugs, all new clamp, hoses,. Let engine warm up the keep checking coolant in rat and in tank don't forget, later with a wire on cap before seal bottom spring then only fill reserve.. then race engine let burp. Check coolant. Now open vent leader of block to get out extra air, close and fill, race witmh rear heat on high, then reverse front on high heat. This is a [non-permissible content removed] when you all done make sure you keep the reserve filled,,, for a month! Might as well replace water pump if yo do this at 150k oh and don't don't for get go change timming after150 that late by the way. Goooood Luuuck! Dealer is cheeepre, my car has pre ignition problem, because of the air, from small holes in hoses or bad head-----which I don't believe, this car ran great before I changed thermost. -----Library have research area for car books on line. But go to dealer, you will save money, time nd. Warrentee the work. I spent 1000 dollars, first mecha nic, the jkiffy lube, now me. Three times now [non-permissible content removed]!,,
  • johnnathanjohnnathan Posts: 4
    Here's the situation you two guys got, its kinda the same problem I have had, mine is worse now. Number on Don't have anyone, not even yourself do the cooling system, but Nissan. I have a 1996 mercury Villager, same motor basics. The cooling system must be flushed by the, books say there three bleeder screws when you fill flush and return system anti-freeze. One is to the right on ratiator(plastic -Allen key), the other is on the intake blower just to the right center; by the firewall , the other is by the intake with the plastic off the filter to alluminum intake------i couldn't find. Again go to dealer, repeat dealer! My car still has issues. First you should back flush system, this must be done with out the thermostat in ([non-permissible content removed]). Then to flush you must have all the paper work or book. At some point the back heater is on high heat and the front is on cold. The the opposite. This is after a back flush. Caution you have Reverse Cooling system!!. You should also blow air in the heater core lines reversly, as well as rear system heater core. If the car is old like mine, replace REPLACE all heater hoses\\ Don't flush back flush with the hose form house on high, don't Put tape around hose and put the house pressure on to high, system is only 13 lbs. I put small holes in all hoses, from rust inside hose and house pressure at 90 PS I. Now that your flushed.........well draining you know is at the ratiator left bottom, engine screws are at front bottom block and rear bottom block (13-15mmbolts). Lead system( In dealer ship this is done much easyer by suction machine causing negitive suction, to the point hoses are collapsed ( just like an air conditioning system) You can't have any, you can't have any air in the block, make sure you put the thermostat in the right direction/the system is a reverse system. Request a blow open thermostat. Put in, not facing block, not facing block!.No put coolant in engine, close engine plugs, all new clamp, hoses,. Let engine warm up the keep checking coolant in rat and in tank don't forget, later with a wire on cap before seal bottom spring then only fill reserve.. then race engine let burp. Check coolant. Now open vent leader of block to get out extra air, close and fill, race witmh rear heat on high, then reverse front on high heat. This is a [non-permissible content removed] when you all done make sure you keep the reserve filled,,, for a month! Might as well replace water pump if yo do this at 150k oh and don't don't for get go change timming after150 that late by the way. Goooood Luuuck! Dealer is cheeepre, my car has pre ignition problem, because of the air, from small holes in hoses or bad head-----which I don't believe, this car ran great before I changed thermost. -----Library have research area for car books on line. But go to dealer, you will save money, time nd. Warrentee the work. I spent 1000 dollars, first mecha nic, the jkiffy lube, now me. Three times now [non-permissible content removed]!,,
  • denhamdenham Posts: 76
    Have replaced 2 Distributors in Nissan Quest 3.3L in last year and now on the 3rd? Seems I am not the only one having this problem and seek advice!
    Dennis
  • rockmobilerockmobile Posts: 113
    I have 213k miles on a 99 Quest and have never had to replace a distributor. If you are using refurbished parts, then anything is possible.
  • denhamdenham Posts: 76
    Not using refurbished parts, and first distributor went out at 140.00 and now less than 20.000 miles have replaced 2 new distributors and now on the 3rd
    and get no eng codes.
  • murrey1murrey1 Posts: 1
    I have this problem in my 98 Quest 3 litre. The hose is molded is it not like a horseshoe shape? I need to know the insid ehos edimension before i take the old one off. Long story
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,975
    Check RockAuto.com. If it's the cooling system by-pass hose, then the inside diameter is 1.060".

    Steve, visiting host

    Moderator
    Minivan fan. Feel free to message or email me - stever@edmunds.com.

  • jarmanjarman Posts: 2
    hi i was wondering if you could help me out here i have a 97 quest with the 3.0,it has been leaking coolant for a year now,when it steams it comes from under the hood and wheel wells.i suspect the heater core or hose but cant get my big head in there to see anything!i have heard about plenums and such but i guess my question is this,is there an easier way to diagnose the problem myself?pressure test maybe?and just how difficult to replace the heater core in the quest?the water levels stays at a level where it will not overheat unless sitting at a light for awhile,we add some coolant about every few weeks.it does not steam every time but definiatly has a wicked smell.this is a terrific vehicle and it does have sentimental value.thanx for any tips or advice or help i may receive.
  • When it comes to leaks I tend to leave it all to the mechanics. These things are very difficult to trace unless the problem is right there in front of your eyes. As a matter of fact my van has had a slight oil leak for quite some time that not even my mechanic has been able to trace.
    Usually a dye is added to the coolant in order to trace the leak/leaks and then take it from there.
  • Did you ever find a solution to this problem? I have the same issue with my 2002 Villager. Have to crank the engine for 3 or 4 seconds, then repeat a couple of times for it to start. But at least half the time it just starts right away like it should, without all the cranking. Doesn't matter if the engine's hot or cold. I've noticed lately that when it does happen, there's a slight smell of exhaust. Plugs are about a year old, so I don't think they're the problem, but I suspect injectors, but how would I check that? Or how would I check for a leaking fuel regulator?
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,975
    It's not a fix but one thing you can try is turning the key to "on" for ~5 seconds before actually cranking it. On my '99 Quest, if I listen, I can usually hear the fuel pump working to pressurize the system when I do this and it helps it to start the first time.

    On mine, subsequent starts aren't an issue; my van sits a lot and I guess loses a bit of pressure in the system.

    Steve, visiting host

    Moderator
    Minivan fan. Feel free to message or email me - stever@edmunds.com.

  • Steve, thanks for the fast reply. I tried what you said, and here's the interesting part: the pump made a muffled squeeling noise, as if it was on it's last leg, sort of like eeeee-ewwww-eeeeeee-ewwwww, but a little more sickly sounding. How's that for typing a noise!! Then the motor started right up. I shut it off and waited a few seconds, then repeated. This time, the pump sounded just like it normally would, a humming noise, pretty even in tone. Then the engine started right up again. Incidentally, the temp. is cold around here today, so maybe in the garage it was 45-50 deg.

    Maybe the pump is wearing out. The van has almost 130,000 miles on it, with the original pump. In fact all of the fuel system, except for the filter, is original. I will try your suggestion for the next several days and turn the key to ON and wait for the system to pressurize before starting, and see what happens. Thanks again!
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,975
    edited November 2012
    Ha, barely broken in. Mine's got 182k.

    Wish I was more of a mechanic - I could tell you stuff like whack the bottom of the gas tank with a rubber mallet and it would magically fix it. ;) If I tried that on mine, the spare tire would probably fall off. Good luck with it.

    Moderator
    Minivan fan. Feel free to message or email me - stever@edmunds.com.

  • Yes, I did solve the problem. I was nearly flooding the engine. The back pressure regulator on the fuel rail was leaking gas into the 1/4" tubing that connects the regulator to the intake manifold. When I took off the tubing, there actually was liquid gas in the tubing. I was lucky to even get the engine started.

    If this is your problem, be advised that it is extremely difficult to get the regulator out since the nice engineers at Nissan or Ford installed metal tubing right over the on top of it.
  • Thanks for your reply. Since I posted over the weekend, we've been turning the key to the "on" position and waiting for the fuel pump to stop (about 3 or 4 seconds?), then starting the van. When the van's in the garage, it then starts every time on the first try. When the van's outside, after having been driven to the store for instance, it takes a couple of attempts to start. Before, when we weren't starting it this way, it would sometimes take 3 attempts to start in the garage (and you start to wonder if it's going to start at all). The stops at the store have been for as little as 5 minutes, or sometimes longer, maybe 1/2 hour or an hour. I'm wondering if the problem is the fuel pump, but I guess it could be several things. Van has about 130K miles, no fuel components have ever been replaced except the filter.
  • Have a 2004 Nissan Quest. No problems all these years (believe it or not - one of those lucky ones that didn't have rattles). 107K miles.

    Had an oil change recently at the dealership. About two weeks after that I'm experiencing a knocking sound from the engine above 40 mph. It only comes on when I depress the gas pedal. I take my foot off the pedal and there's no knocking.

    Is that the drive belt going bad? Wanted to confirm if others faced the similar issues before taking it to a mechanic/dealer.

    Thanks,
    SP
  • Make sure you do the coolant with the car up in front. Run around with a wire in cap, temporarily after all this. Don't over tighten the Belting or strip revese thread on belt mount adj . This is to the power steering pump and water pump-sucks! My car still having problems, I may have to replace the 02 sensor from the heat out out, oil and burring is bad for that. Good Luck Fans. Please close the bleader on top of motor as soon as you open it, or you will loose screw.
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