Mercedes-Benz M-class (ML320, ML350, ML500 and ML55) 2005 and earlier

drew_

Electrochromatic (or auto dimming), not monochromatic :-) I think what Ken, David, etc. are interested in is the aspherical, electrochromatic, and heated left side exterior rear view mirror, but the aspherical, non-electrochromatic and heated right side mirror.

Interesting revision of the law. Was this brought in just recently?

As for the blisters, we weren't that bad! Hopefully, another chat session can be brought in w/o the trivia stuff. This would be good for those who are just interested in a general discussion and not the trivia stuff. What do you and everyone else think of this?


Drew
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Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories message boards

P.S. MotorVision's first showing at tomorrow at 4pm PST!

djohnson64

Thanks for your help.
David

djohnson64

Ken,
I figured your ML should come with these black ones. It was a surprise for me, though, that some of the 2000 models came with the chrome.
David

mlx52

Untitled Document

Does anyone know what this is a picture of, on the right side of the two pics?
It seems to be a picture of the Comand system, however using the MCS software.
Is this what is offered in Europe or is this something new to come?

mlx52

I'm sorry that I took up so much space posting my pic. Oh well it was my first time?

kenyee

David:
It was probably a phase-in when MB figured out the "fixed" ones still rusted.

drew_

Yes, it's the COMAND system (it doesn't allow you to control car functions, unlike the C, E, S-class, etc. though), but it's only optional for European and Australian models. We don't get it here in North America. The display images are simulated, so they may not be what they are in real life; I'd even go as far as saying that it's definitely not what it is in real life.


Drew
Host
Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories message boards

biker5

JMCDOWELL,

Hi! Here is onother Part # out of the ML 2000 accessory catalog it might work to the dealer you are dealing with. BQ 668 0360 FOR $78.00 set of four. Hope this will help...Happy snow day.

jmcdowell

Thanks guys for coming through-especially for the photos, Drew. I've printed them out and look forward to slapping them down on the counter at my local dealer. I think they hate it when customers are better informed than they are, but I've finally gotten to the point where they don't try to patronize me-and will actually listen to me and my suggestions.----Jeff

wmquan

A couple of months ago there was a discussion of carseats, and some folks here mentioned they had the Britax Roundabout carseat.

Just in case somewhat might not have heard, Britax has "voluntarily" recalled all Roundabout carseats manufactured from January 13, 1999 through March 14, 1999. See:

http://www.childseat.com/whats_new/wne_detail.cfm?wne_id=6

Apparently Britax contracts out the injection molding for the plastic seat frame, and they weren't up to snuff to pass U.S. regulations.

Unfortunately, while this particular seat has had a sterling reputation, Britax has taken a somewhat questionable path for this recall. They won't replace the seat. Instead, they'll send you some shoulder pads to attach that will provide extra cushioning to make up for the weakness in the frame! I've read claims by some parents that the extra pads make it more difficult to secure the toddler.

drew_

Glad that I could help! Let us know what the parts department guys say :-)

drew_

Questionable path indeed. If it is not up to US regulations, does that mean that there is a potential for structural failure in the event of an accident? Shoulder pads don't sound like they could compensate for structural weakness, so I'm surprised that it is the fix. BTW, you don't own one of these seats right now, do you?

wmquan

Supposedly the defect lets the harness take less load and shift, thus allowing more head movement than necessary (1.6" according to Britax's internal testing). The "fix" basically prevents the harness from moving, and thus the child's head, so technically it is within "Safety Standard 213." It's hard to say what else the defect affects.

I'm afraid that you'd be shocked at what goes on with childseats and gear for children in general. It never ceases to amaze me just how many fail simple regulations and have to be recalled. And the recall usually happens after there has been needless deaths (to be fair to Britax, supposedly no child has been injured from this defect yet).

It's safe to say that probably EVERY carseat manufacturer has had to recall their seats at one time or another (though not necessarily every model), so it leaves parents and caregivers with the difficult decision of who to trust. Our infant seat is made by Century and is very good, but only a few years ago Century went through a bad time with their top-selling 590 model. Their company's tests found the seat to be safe but external tests (like in Consumer Reports) clearly showed the opposite.

The problem is that both U.S. and Canadian regulations allow the manufacturers to police themselves, and do not set stringent enough testing guidelines. There are huge loopholes in crashtesting carseats so that you can pass an internal test but still be unsafe. E.g. there are large differences in whether an infant seat uses a base or not, and in the case of the 590, a 30mph crash would separate the seat from its base. Or, both U.S. and Canadian regulations do not specify side protection (e.g. rollover or side impact) so seats are not required to have padding to the sides.

We haven't bought a convertible seat yet, but our baby's growth rate means he'll need one soon. I'm not sure what we're going to do. The Britax Roundabout is still reputed to be the best convertible seat around. It's designed for the European market, which has tougher childseat regulations, it has a number of notable features for safety (side padding, a metal plate to reinforce the harness to prevent separation, etc.). However, Consumer Reports' testing actually showed the Roundabout to be "below average." I was willing to ignore it as a testing aberration but now I'm not that sure anymore.

Another choice could be that Safe Embrace II seat from Fisher-Price, the one with the ISOFIX attachments (which won't work with our vehicle, but it can be strapped conventionally too). It is notable for having a steel frame. But Fisher-Price had mega recalls some years back and pulled out of the childseat business. They came back with the first version of the aforementioned seat, and, even with its steel frame, it was also recalled.

On a less serious note, I wonder if any M-class owners with black leather would go all the way and buy:

http://store.babycenter.com/baby/g/product/601/00/39/

Check out the customer feedback from the guy with the 911!

kingscorpian

I do not have map cd # 6 but I have map cds #7 & #9 and would be happy to trade a copy of map cd # 8

plank

Regarding the cd maps, please drop me an e-mail at cdplank@uplink.net and we'll discuss the details. Thanks for responding to my request!

Plank

rjlim

I'm new to owning an MB vehicle. I would like to know if a 99 ML320, with 19705 miles, leather,
CD changer, moon roof, 2 years and 10 months
warranty left on it, for $31500 is a good buy?

Thanks in advance.

rexconde1

Okay, here is the preliminary page for the CLK55.

I'm having ALOT of trouble uploading about 10 of the pictures for various reasons, between ISP carrier, FTP problems, and Server connect problems

There are about 10 pictures that dont work, you'll just have to figure which ones

http://www.exconde.com/clk55.htm

Enjoy, at least the ones that are up there. I apologize for the crappy photo quality I dont have a digicam and I didnt have any slower speed film available.

Robert

kenyee

Robert:
You might want to run those pics through a postprocessor or save at a lower Q. They're too big :-)

ometofu

it will change your personal transport vechicle forever...

rexconde1

Yeah

I know they are a bit big. I'll have to reduce the Quality a bit. I found this out after uploading at the library. While I know that 569K is big for a picture, I thought, ahh what the hell.

With the bad quality of the photos I didnt want to make it look worse. I'll scale them down a bit and upload them later this week.

Robert

uga94

Please forgive me in advance for this DUMB question. I have checked the owner's manual, but I must be too stupid to figure it out. So here goes:

My wife and I purchased a 2000 320 Saturday.
On the way home from the dealership, my wife needed to make a stop to pick up a few things.

I waited in the 320 for her *with the doors locked*. When she returned, I attempted to unlock her door, but ales, was unable to do this with the same button that I had *locked* the doors with (the "central locking switch")!

I finally just reached over the passenger seat and manually pulled the lock up, but SURELY there is a more logical way to do this? Doesn't it make sense that the button that locks the doors would also unlock them?

I suppose that I would have the same problem with the rear doors or tailgate.... but manually unlocking them would be MUCH carder!

Like I said, I apologize for the dumb question, but perhaps some kind hearted soul will take pity on me and help me out!

Thanks,

Jeremy

rika

Did anyone here bought MB from dealer in Bend Oregon?
Can you tell me how you rate their service?
Thanks !

rover96

Jd:
As far as unlock the door, the same centre lock switch can unlock & lock the doors (cycle it without leaving your finger up - nice feature about MB design, same switch to turn on & off). I would take it back to the dealer & had them to check it out. I know some of the switches (windows, door lock...) are intermittence operative. Warrant covers it!
Also to manually unlock the front doors, you can pull the door handle from the inside (no need to pull the lock pin), the door should open.

mbml55amg

The forward portion of the switch which has the, "lock logo", on it will lock the doors, while the rear part of the switch,"unmarked", will unlock the doors. Good luck.

dt77

Rob, nice pics. I thought the pics were pretty nice and of good quality. All you have to do is just resize them now

So wait, this CLK55 is yours? You dad is the one with the CL right ?

dt77

rexconde1

We sold the CL and got the CLK55, its much faster and easier to toss around. I think that that my father prefered the handling characteristics and size, not to mention the lower price of the CLK. We mad a little on the CL500. The CL is more exclusive but the CLK is sportier and faster. Its just a matter of preference. Who knows with my father... he changes cars so fast, but oddly with more money in his pocket everytime. . .

The really nice thing is that it looks exactly like a CLK430, and when one does pull next to me no one will know until I leave him in a trail of dust. A Wolf in sheep's clothing...

The Car is in Las Vegas, not with me. Although I use the CLK when ever I "HAVE" to. Plans are underway to maybe take it to Laguna Seca?!

Hopefully next on the web page will be the CL55
;-)

Robert

klseh

I saw this interesting behavior on fuel indicator few times and
I wonder if it is related to that infamous fuel sender problem.

When the fuel level drops a little below 1/4 tank, the orange light
appears and the trip computer blinks with the word "Fuel!" After
I stop the car for a while and start the engine again, the fuel level
actually goes up a little above 1/4 tank and the trip indicator now
shows I have about 70 miles before empty. I don't know how far should
I keep on driving. What is the symptom of the fuel sender problem?

K.L. Seh

biker5

If you are not sure what to do or if you don't trust the gauge. This is what I did I'm not even pay attention to the fuel warning. I always go by the milage the that I used or the odometer As soon as I reached 215- 225 miles I fill up my tank and that is my mark somewhere around that mark the fuel warning should comes on. Thats my style of monitoring my tank...never fail so far.

kiiwii

Have you guys watched the CD that came with the ML? Did you notice that it kept telling not to exceed 2000 rpm while in the low-range mode? What do you guys think? Is this true?

I was stucked in about 7-8 inch of mud last Saturday with my ML. Yes, low-range engaged, ESP off, I couldn't get out of the mud until I rev the engine to 3000+ rpm. One thing I learned, if you have your ESP on in this condition, you will never get your truck out of the mud.

dt77

Oh, you sold the CL !
Yeah, I agree, the CL is more exclusive. He managed to make some selling ? nice ...
Did you CL have ABC ? how different does the car react with ABC ?

oooooh, CL55 - someday...

dt77

dt77

I think road level affects the fuel indicator. It's best to compare the erroneous readings when the ML is parked on level ground.

if the readings still appear to be off, I say take it do dealer !

dt77

rexconde1

Given the size and weight of the car the ABC was VERY nice to have,
May I emphasize VERY. With the ABC set to normal it handled well, but
when you set it to sport, the CL had virtually no roll except when I pushed
it hard in second. I think that it was acombination of this gear and theABC that
I was able to push the tail out easier. Mind you I WAS with my father at the time...
I think that I had the ESP off too. And when the 20% kicked in it was HARD and
IMMEDIATE! I still wish that it had a Total OFF function like the DSC of the BMW.

I played with the ABC turning it on and off while making swaying motions and the difference is
between night and day. I highly recommend it!

My father was impressed with the handling, even if he doesnt drive it hard like I do.
Which is one reason he makes me drive it.

Hint: Maybe in June

Robert

noelb1

After reading some posts on the fuel indicator and some suggestions on how to get around it by manually calculating the number of miles one has driven, I have to say this is absurd. For goodness sake, people, you paid over $40,000 for your vehicle and you have to calculate the mileage manually to gauge when you should fill up !? And this is a Mercedez, no less. I don't care how much you like the star on the hood and the prestige or self esteem it brings you, this is one of the simplest things MB should and could have taken care of since 1997. If MB doesn't take care of loyal customers like you and me, shame on them. And maybe you should consider some other makes of car like BMW / Lexus the next time you foot a bill of $40,000 for a car. A $13,000 Honda Civic has a better fuel gauge than our $40,000 SUV of the year ML.

kenyee

As dt77 mentioned, this is a known problem and supposedly nothing can be done about it because of where the fuel sender is located in the tank. If you are seeing that odd behavior on level ground, it may be the corroded fuel sender problem (though the symptom in the past is weird fluctuations, i.e., quick drop or never reaching, from the full level).

klseh

I was driving on flat roads and parked on flat land when I observed
the "ups and downs" of the fuel indicator.

I am planning on driving it until the low fuel indicator comes up
again. I am just afraid of running out of fuel and have to call M-B for
help!!!

By the way, if the low fuel indicator lights up, does your trip
computer flash the warning too? The indicator is supposed to light
up when you have about 4.2 gals left and the trip computer when you have
50 miles before empty. (Correct me if I am wrong). They base the math
on 12 miles per gallon?!

mlx52

I remember awhile back you posted pics of a door guard that protects the sides of the door if you hit it against the side of another car. Where can I find these, as I would love to have them?

Thanks
Jamie

dt77

noelb1,

I have no problems with my indicator and I find the indicator works pretty well for me at least. I've drivin past the amber warning light on the highway and drivin close to 30-40 miles after the 50 miles warning came on. The indicator has proven accurate for me.

klseh,

When the amber light comes on, the trip computer flashed FUEL too. Yes, when i rem the manual stating 50 miles left. Based on 12mpg, I think that is safe I get no more than 12 with my ml430 in local driving.

Anyways, I try to avoid driving too far into the amber light just so I reduce the risk of getting stranded.

dt77

mlx52

After a trip downtown today (Chicago) and going over many potholes I felt that the ride was much too harsh. So when I got home I let the tires cool down for two hours in my heated garage which is kept at 60 degrees F. However, when I checked the pressure it was at t 33 psi all around when I thought it was supposed to be 29 psi. Did I not wait long enough for the tires to cool down, or when I took delivery did the dealer forget to lower the tire pressure.

Thanks
Jamie

dt77

Jamie,

Prob best to check pressure after the ML has been parked overnite. Then yer definately sure u'll be getting cold PSI readings. I don't think your heated garage would affect the readings that much.

It's possible you got the ML like that - 33psi
When I got my ML, i have like 3 different readings between the 4 tires. I think one was low as 29 and one as hi at 35 psi.

I have my tires at about 32psi. I just like it that way.

dt77

beetlebug62

...after the update on pricing from the previous weeks. With $1200 OEM xenons and $600 Philips retrofits, HID xenons are a more attractive option, than ever.

However, looking at some of the HID websites posted, it seemed to me that there are two types of HID bulbs, D2S and D2R, with the D2S bulbs for projector-type lamps, putting out 3200 lumens, and the D2R bulbs for reflector-type lamps, putting out 2850 lumens. The ML has reflector-type lamps.

My understanding is that stock halogens put out 1000 lumens, but that the bulbs the ML uses put out 1300 lumens, due to its xenon gas content.

So, the HID/xenons put out over twice as many lumens as the halogens on our MLs.

However, I noticed that Robert mentioned that the ML55/HID capsules do not include an integral foglamp, and he surmises this is possibly due to the wider dispersion of the HID xenons, making fogs somewhat redundant and unnecessary. Now, if that were in fact true, wouldn't the more apt comparison be between the HID xenons and the combined lumen output of the OEM lamps with integrated foglights? So, foglights would have 1000 to 1300 lumens, depending upon bulb used, added to the 1300 lumens of the stock lowbeams, totals roughly 2300 to 2600 lumens. This is not far from the 2850 lumens of the HID xenons. So, now, I'm wondering if a HID xenon upgrade is worth the time and effort. I suppose the best thing would be to park my 320 next to a ML55 and compare.

Any other thoughts?

jimbeco

Has anyone out there hooked up with any Brabus aftermarket pieces? I picked up one of their catalogs at the LA Auto Show. Their exhaust system looks promising. What about their other performance parts?

Jim

chris168

Interesting point Ken.

I also noticed on Robert's HID site that the ML's Xenon headlamps burn at a lower temp and intensity than other MB Xenons. The other day I saw a '01 S-class side by side with a '01 ML55 and I readily noticed that the ML's headlamps were not nearly as purple colored as the S-class's.

My question is because the ML's Xenon lamps run at a lower temperature would that result in a loss of total light output? Robert did you notice a difference in light output on the road when driving the CLK55 compared to your ML?

-Chris

rexconde1

I'm not sure of the light output of the H3 bulbs for the foglamps I would have to think that it is closer to the 1000 lumens if that. I dont really remember the H3s putting out a lot of light even when projected on the wall. I would have to say less because the H3s don't seem to put out as much light as the low beams. The Lighting output is significant in comparison to that of the Halogens. (Wish we could get D. Stern in here)

While the HIDs do incorporate the function of the foglamps they also provide a more even distribution/controlled light output and adds more light in the right places for driving at night. I placed my halogens back in the ML a couple months back and found them rather spotty and I find I cant go back to them after driving with the Xenons. I would like to compare the regular and the HIDs side by side but I don't have 2 MLs. :-)

This is one of the biggest complaints of mine projectors and reflectors... its really personal preference. Drew doesn't like the severe cutoff of the projectors, I love it. I believe that BMW's cut off is a bit weirder than MB.

MB is _______/-------

BMW is _______/^\------

I prefer the beam of the MB projectors (CL and SL) as it has a better the beam design and (like beetle noted) higher output. MB has a higher cutoff and lights the side better. For the projectors I would have to say that the auto level is absolutely necessary because of the sever cutoff.

Here is a sample of the light dispersion



The color temperature of the bulbs I believe is due to the type and brand of the bulb used. I believe that it is the Osram that has the higher temperature bulb, which can be found on the Mark VIII, and I think the earlier MB S-Class. If you compare the previous generation S-Class and the New S-class I former has a higher temperature, I believe that this is due to technology (not sure).

Chris I noticed a significant difference in out put between the CLK and the ML. I think that it is mostly because of the height of the car, not to mention that I always use the driving lamps. However the CLK lights have a color temperature that is much closer to that of the ML, and also what can be found on the E-Class. It looks like MB is using lower temperature bulbs.

As for the bluer light in the new S-Class, I cant explain but I'll give my opinion. I personally think that it is the same but it is because of the front lens that gives it that look. The S-class has a "grated" shield opposed to that of the ML with the clear lens. This is all IMO.

I think that the temperature may have something to do with the light out put as the projector beams have a higher out put, appear bluer, and have a star shape when viewed dead on. Because of this need/want to control the beam a higher out put is necessary in the projectors, THUS higher output means something has to burn hotter, and hotter means hotter temperature. It is much easier to control more light than less. Much like using a 3cell flashlight to create a hand puppet, opposed to using a 1,000,000 cp handpuppet The light of the projectors on the CL500 was quite good and severely cutoff and I feel was brighter which is noticeable. This from experience on Rt 15 West to Cali… and at speeds greater that 100MPH I wouldn’t be caught with out these lamps. ;-)

rexconde1

cali...
wouldnt

tarik

I just got note from my German parts guy as to the cost of the convex, heated, electrochromatic glass for the driver's side exterior mirror. He tells me that one glass runs DEM 210.00, roughly equaling USD 102! How do you spell greeeeeeeeeeeeeeed?

Birger, can you do any better?

In order to ensure correct fit, he needs to have the VIN, too! Apparently, the glass design was changed sometime down the road, and the two types are not interchangeable.

Tarik

sydney6

I agree with Neolb that for $40 grand the darn fuel gauge should work well. On the other hand, I remember some months back someone posting that there is a fuel algorithym so that when off-road and on uneven ground that it would read accurately. If this was the design intent I submit that they missed the mark, since it only seems accurate when the vehicle is level.

However, it is a quirk that I have gotten used to, and it doesn't bother me. I would also add that yes, the fuel light comes on at the same time as the flashing "FUEL" on the overhead display activates. Anothe trick from this forum is to switch the overhead display units to metric, then it will give you a kilometer count down right to empty.

biker5

Anyone of you guys/gals read the accident happened about 99 ML430, posted on WWW.mbworld.org..Its scarry.

hogster21

I had a friend in Germany check with a local dealer - 67DM for a non-electrochromatic mirror. I do not know how much electrochromaticity is worth...

I had to replace a mirror here in the US, and it was $31, so price my friend gave me was certainly in line.

senc

I can't decide whether to keep or trade my '99 ml320. I had alot of problems early with it(squeaks, rattles, etc.). Now with 39k miles, I only have sunroof track rattles at 65+mph (sometimes) that drives me nuts sometimes(it never seems to repeat the noise when the service tech drives it), and wind noise around the pass. window weather stripping. Of course, what could I buy new today and have fewer bugs to resolve. It seems the other vehicles I buy new now have more wrong with them than this one with 39k miles...When this thing goes out of warranty this year, is upkeep going to kill me? Any opinions or comments??

kenyee

biker5:
It doesn't make sense. Why would it even be able to move while in Park? It sounds more like the "Audi acceleration problem" (brake = gas pedal).