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Comments
If he starts calling it a minivan, it'd be KTM/Bud and should be ignored.
BTW, on the topic of problems, a few folks on the m-class mailing list reported a few that are real: one person had the accelerator's pivot pin work itself out half way...another person had his brake pedal go to the floor (symptom of air in brake lines).
DEM 67.00 for the non-dimming glass as opposed to DEM 210.00 for the "fancy" one ( ;-> ) sounds about allright, but maybe you can get your friend to verify the latter, prices vary a lot from dealer to area. Hopefully Birger (DK) can get a local price, too.
Let's see what happens, then we can determine the course of action.
Re the "sudden acceleration ML":
As Ken noted, no contact information, not even an alias, and he even PUT IT IN "P" WHILE DRIVING? I don't think so, unless this particular ML is missing the claw which engages within the transmission when shifting to "P". Under normal circumstances, shifting to "P" while rolling will either send you airborne through the windshield (or throw you into the seatbelts) - very unlikely - or completely wipe out your gearbox in the must noisy and destructive fashion possible.
Tarik
few days ago, i was listening to a song from a cd in my car and suddenly it stopped... the track minute stopped and no sound at all. then i skipped to the next track, the changer taking quite a bit time there, but it was okay.. no frozen again whatsoever. it happened about an hour after i started driving...it was on an interstate..
so far it's okay now.. i'm thinking of taking it to the dealer.. but i can't replicate the problem.. =(
i just got the car 18 days ago.. 01 ml320.. with bose sound system and changer as one of the options.. and has 1500 miles on it now.. (and love every single moment driving the car).
just curious and all.. is it probably because of the anti-skip thingy?? all i know that if you have a portable cd player, it has that anti-skip memory.. i don't know if a car cd player has the same thing or not.. does anyone has experienced the same problem too??
thanks much......
Thanks
Jamie
As for the squeaks coming from the back, I had the same problem. They put felt around the rear hatch latch and it stopped the sound. The fit up there on earlier ML's is not that good. You can try to fix it yourself by buying the velcro stick on tape and using the soft side. Cut it into strips and put around the latch on the door part (not on the base near the bumper. Good luck.
According to Excite's TV schedule, the same show airs again later tonight (at 2:00AM EST on Wednesday, the 17., to be precise). The phantom should then appear around 2.45 - 2.50AM.
For the nighthawks and all PSTers...
Tarik
We've had a CD changer for over 1 year now, but haven't experienced any skipping.
David
I just noted that my last post was 1111. I'm surprised that in 01-2001, nobody else grabbed it.
David
I'm not sure of the light output of the H3 bulbs for the foglamps I would have to think that it is closer to the 1000 lumens if that. I dont really remember the H3s putting out a lot of light even when projected on the wall. I would have to say less because the H3s don't seem to put out as much light as the low beams. The Lighting output is significant in comparison to that of the Halogens. (Wish we could get D. Stern in here)>>
...table at: http://lighting.mbz.org/tech/info/bulb_types/
Apparently, the HID xenons that the ML55 uses puts out 2800 lumens, not the 2850 I wrote yesterday. The H7 lowbeam bulb puts out 1335 lumens, and the H3 foglight bulb puts out 1290 lumens. Together the H7 and H3 put out 2625 lumens, only 6% less than the output of the HID xenons.
I believe that your perception of the H3 bulbs putting out significantly less light compared to the H7 bulbs is probably due to the dispersion pattern due to the reflector. Certainly the foglight reflector would cast a wider and less dense beam, than a lowbeam reflector.
In regards to the blueness/purpleness of the CLK versus the ML, I would just point out that the blueness/purpleness is a byproduct of HID xenons, and not the primary constituent of the light, which is white. Presuming anything about the HID xenons, based upon the blueness/purpleness of the lamps, is probably the same sort of reasoning that made the PIAA superwhites such a marketing success.
Point taken. I see your numbers but the light out put for me still seems much greater than the 6% that you gave. It must be that it is white light coming out of the bulbs and makes things easier to see, because it is white and closer to daylight and shows the natural color(ie ladies, makeup counter, flourescent lights!) In addition the light is also placed better with the HIDs. But at the same time I dont understand why they cannot do this on standard Halogens. (USDOT) From what I hear the Euro lenses are MUCH better in terms of lighting even with the same bulb! I have not experience with the Euro lenses but everyone raves about them. So I suppose that a big part of the light is the way the beam is projected.
The H3s on the fogs (for the short time that I used them) were small frown-shaped beams. The low light could have been due to the wide dispersion. I remember it didnt give me much though that I remember except to the sides where I appreciated the extra light.
The "Blue" color of the light differs with the manufacturer of the bulb and lamp assembly. I have seen the VERY annoying GS400 reflector type lamp and the ML reflector type lamps ; the GS seems to have the "bluer" nature. The apparent color to our eyes is relative to the color temperature of the light and what it burns at. My comment about projector beams lamps having a bluer (apparent) light was that it was because they they do burn hotter and have a hotter temperature and a brighter whiter light (or bluer); this is like you pointed out because of the different bulb. As for the CLK/ML the light is VERY similar, but the difference that I saw in the capsules are the "grated" front lens which could be causing a "bluer" look.
You are right that the blue is a by product of the HID, I it is just our perception of the light...
FYI, Some typical color temperatures are:
1500 k Candlelight
2680 k 40 W incandescent lamp
3000 k 200 W incandescent lamp
3200 k Sunrise/sunset
3400 k Tungsten lamp
3400 k 1 hour from dusk/dawn
5000-4500 k Xenon lamp/light arc
5500 k Sunny daylight around noon
5500-5600 k Electronic photo flash
6500-7500 k Overcast sky
9000-12000 k Blue sky
Since the color temperature of the sky is so "hot" that is what gives the color of blue. Now we can explain to kids - Why the sky is blue...
Beetle or anyone, if you want you can email me directly at rexconde@exconde.com or we can continue till someone complains about this being off topic....
;-0
Robert
My question is, can I put in a 20 Amp fuse(factory call for a 15 Amp)? Did MB design it with a safety margin in the circuit? Anyone came across this issuse??
TIA
which model year is your ML?
Folks w/ MY2000 models seem to have no problems but ones before did...
Hope this helps
...Tracy
I am hoping to change the fuse to 20 amp & be done with it. No add on relay & rewire switch etc.. Anyone done it with 20 amp??
That's what I remember as well, but several folks on the M-class list w/ 2000 models have said they do run both to the same switch. I'm still surprised because I had always read that the wiring could not handle the current draw. I would guess the size of their external fogs had something to do w/ their success rate.
rover96:
I wouldn't recommend it on a 1998. I'd worry about wiring meltdown if you threw the bigger fuse on...
I am hoping to change the fuse to 20 amp & be done with it. No add on relay & rewire switch etc.. Anyone done it with 20 amp??
There is a reason for maximum load ratings, and while almost anything can go over the rated load for a while, the rating really is there for a reason. Also, imho, why cheap out and risk damage to the electrical system? Remember that the weakest link in an electrical circuit ends up being the "fuse." Personally I'd rather pay up front than to melt the fuse block and have the dealer say: Sorry but your over wattage lighting system is not covered by warranty, and a new fuse block is $$$$ (I actually have no idea and don't want to find out) .. So why put something over it's rating just because someone says it's okay? It's not as if anyone who owns a ML can't afford to do it right. Right?
Tracy
I did the same thing before, But I'm a little bit scared to keep it
that way due to electrical over load, What I did is I disconnected the Hella 500 and run a separate switch like the after market fog light with relay. The H-3 bulb that I installed inside the head light housing is control by the factory switch, so any time that I want to use it I don't have to go down and take the Hella cover off. Also if you check the wiring harness comes with the ML it says the wattage can handle up to 150 watts. Since you use 2 sets of fog lights with 55w ea. its going to be the total of 220w maybe that the reason why your fuse keep blowing up. If you want to keep your H-3 Bulb inside the housing try to do what I did.
They will also debut a new crossover SUV/Wagon vehicle called the GST (Grand Sport Tourer). I saw a prototype last fall at a Daimler-Chrysler focus group, and it looked really cool. It would have two or three versions, with progressively larger engines and pricing, of course.
I never cared for aftermarket bulbs. I know that MB/BMW uses a better bulb so If I need a replacement I go to the dealership to replace a blown bulb for all our cars. $10/pair. As for the PIAAs ...cant say... this is a subject I wont touch. >>
Not unless you want to upset the PIAA supporters...
<<Point taken. I see your numbers but the light out put for me still seems much greater than the 6% that you gave. ...In addition the light is also placed better with the HIDs. But at the same time I dont understand why they cannot do this on standard Halogens. (USDOT) From what I hear the Euro lenses are MUCH better in terms of lighting even with the same bulb! I have not experience with the Euro lenses but everyone raves about them. So I suppose that a big part of the light is the way the beam is projected. >>
EXACTLY! Why we perceive a greater difference, than the actual light output, as measured in lumens, is due to how the light is projected.
<<The H3s on the fogs (for the short time that I used them) were small frown-shaped beams. The low light could have been due to the wide dispersion. I remember it didnt give me much though that I remember except to the sides where I appreciated the extra light. >>
Again, exactly. The light output, as measured in lumens, is the total quantity of light. If you take two identical bulbs and use two different deflectors, say one being a foglamp reflector, and one being a highbeam reflector, you would "perceive" the foglight as being less bright. It is indeed less dense, but the quantity of light is identical. It's once again, all about how the light is projected.
<<FYI, Some typical color temperatures are:
1500 k Candlelight
2680 k 40 W incandescent lamp
3000 k 200 W incandescent lamp
3200 k Sunrise/sunset
3400 k Tungsten lamp
3400 k 1 hour from dusk/dawn
5000-4500 k Xenon lamp/light arc
5500 k Sunny daylight around noon
5500-5600 k Electronic photo flash
6500-7500 k Overcast sky
9000-12000 k Blue sky
Since the color temperature of the sky is so "hot" that is what gives the color of blue. Now we can explain to kids - Why the sky is blue...>>
Actually, I thought the sky was blue due to it having the shortest wavelength, thus being the most diffracted by the upper atmosphere.
ally
I also dont see how these H3s can be illegal in some states, just seems rediculous.
Okay so we've got
-approx 6% more light (I never compared the #'s)
-whiter light giving greater contrast and better vision (blue depending POV)
-better light placement in all the right places (evenly spread in front of driver, no apparent hot-spots)
As for the sky being blue...I guess I should have remembered that...(shorter wave lenght) I've forgotten everything from HS~!
Since it does have the shorter wave lenght and it is defracted easily, it IS why the new S-Class has a bluer look?! This would explain Chris's remark about the S and the ML having different colors. The ML has a clear front opposed to the grated front of the E, S, CLK, C, and SLK, thus giving these headlamps a bluer look
This tendancy to defract is also the reason for the headlamp cleaners so that dirt and snow dont stay on the front of the lens throwing the light everywhere.
Is the shorter wavelenght easier to control and thus create the sever cutoff like that of the HIDs?
Robert
If MY2000 doesn't have problem with H3 & hella 500 wired to the same stock switch, I was wondering what is the difference?
I looked at the relay for my 98 ML320 & is rated to 20 amp for the fog lights. Can any 2000 owner tell me what is their relay rated for? Consider the fog light wire are the same gage, the only difference that I can think of would be the relay rating.
Robert, I believe this slightly different electrical system is also why your (and Bob's) HID light upgrade did not require a different fuse whereas Omar's '99 ML430 did. Chris is doing the upgrade to his '99 ML sometime late this week/weekend so it will be interesting to see if he does require the higher capacity fuse. I did say to have one at hand just in case.
Here are a few pictures for you:
Quite subtle from this distance:
Drew
Host
Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories message boards
In november 2000 I paid $39,250 for my car without tax for a total of $42,586.25, Car is equipped with sunroof, Bose sound system, heated seats and MI package. I have added cargo net divider and cargo cover and have the all weather mats as well as carpet ones. Car has 1,700 miles on it and is mint! Okay guys, do you think I will be able to sell it quickly???? and what the heck do I ask for it if I am selling it with all the above extra goodies? please respond asap and I want to advertise friday the 19th. Thanks bon.
Will I have to take a huge loss or not? bon
Sorry to re-visit old topics; however, I'm a new ML owner and have spent hours reading prior posts before purchasing the car I love! Thanks to all for so much invaluable information.
Many posts from your older boards are not presently available; thus, I would be so appreciative of these illusive (probably common) answers:
(1) Please advise where I might find the
(discounted, in stock) MB cargo mat for my
new 2000 320ML (ClairParts is back-ordered!);
(2) Least costly place to purchase Navigation,
and price of same; (have found it for 1,320.
+ 135. for CD);
(3) Residing in Atlanta, GA; ready to do first
interim oil change to Mobil 1:
(A) How many quarts of oil will be needed?
(B) Please advise your thoughts on exactly which
viscosity to use -
Finally, thanks to Drew for all the great information and photographs on the door edge guards -- I shall go in search of them this weekend! Drew, from your recent photos, just noticed that my silver ML is/came almost identically equipped -- no wonder everyone keeps joking with me that it's a "boy car"!
Maril in Atlanta
MPresse@bellsouth.net
I ordered them from Tire Rack back in Novemeber and they have been on backorder. Today they called and said that they would no longer backorder the tire due to manufacturing limitations. They suggested buying another brand tire.
I currently have the General tires and they are very loud.
The new Michelins are $160 per tire vs. Generals at $55.
Any suggestions or comments?
Thanks,
Patrick
I think I can share one to your question.
I just have my first oil change done by dealer of course it was free, I asked them if I need to put mobil one this time, they said not necessarily. But if I want too I have to pay extra. Also , they mentioned that Mobil 1 is for high performance car. Now, What viscosity? I check my ticket after they did an oil change. They used 15W 40 and the qty was 9 qt. BTW, How many miles do you have on your ML? Here is another story I took it to them when my FSS shows a little over 1k miles.They said they can not do an oil change not until less FSS read less than 999 miles then they can do it. That's the MB policy.
For Atlanta, I'd use 5W-30
David
Beetle
I guess I never looked at the numbers all I knew is that I could see better with these lamps, thus assuming it was a lot brighter. However it IS much brighter with the Projector lamps like on the CL or BMWs. On the ML I suppose that they should keep the H3s on all the time to compare with the regular beams of the HIDs. On the other hand they do need two bulbs and more power to make up for the work of one HID.
I also dont see how these H3s can be illegal in some states, just seems rediculous.
Okay so we've got
-approx 6% more light (I never compared the #'s)
-whiter light giving greater contrast and better vision (blue depending POV)
-better light placement in all the right places (evenly spread in front of driver, no apparent hot-spots)
As for the sky being blue...I guess I should have remembered that...(shorter wave lenght) I've forgotten everything from HS~!
Since it does have the shorter wave lenght and it is defracted easily, it IS why the new S-Class has a bluer look?! This would explain Chris's remark about the S and the ML having different colors. The ML has a clear front opposed to the grated front of the E, S, CLK, C, and SLK, thus giving these headlamps a bluer look
This tendancy to defract is also the reason for the headlamp cleaners so that dirt and snow dont stay on the front of the lens throwing the light everywhere.
Is the shorter wavelenght easier to control and thus create the sever cutoff like that of the HIDs???>>
...but I doubt the shorter wavelength of blue light is easier to control to create the cutoff. Light, all light, doesn't bend, unless it's near a large magnetic or gravitational force, according to Einstein. So, a severe cutoff comes down to the quality of the reflectors, prisms, lenses and shields, depending upon what type of headlights you have.
As for the differences between the various MB models with HIDs, I can only assume that the quality of the headlamp components is also the reason why some lamps diffract more or less spurious blue or purplish light.
As for white light being better, I would agree, as it would render colors more naturalistically. However, if the production of white light, also includes lots of spurious and glaring blue light, then the advantages are somewhat mitigated. Yellowish light is less diffracted by bad weather, thus yellow foglights. Ideally, it would seem that white light, with yellow as a by-product would be better than white light, with blue as a by-product.
And, as for the better spread of HID light, I would likely agree, as much effort has been invested in a good reflector/projector, etc. However, since the foglights in the ML are "integrated", I would assume that these lights have also been invested with a great deal of reflector design effort by the Mercedes engineers, or their suppliers. As we have all experienced, many cars/trucks have separate foglights, and these are often poorly aimed, and thus their value is reduced. However, we also know that the integrated foglamps of the ML, should always be properly aimed, as long as the headlamps are properly aimed. Clearly, the Mercedes engineers would design ML capsule to have complementary lowbeams and foglights, with little overlap and few hotspots.
Staying alive, a poor Bee Gees imitation
Oil change sounds like from an earlier post one can request the free oil change at 9001 miles? instead of 10,000 for years 00/01
Waiting for MB tech to hear the thump noise, service manager wanted me to come back again (3) times for the Rep to hear it. I said "why" what can he possibily do, there tech already validated the noise with me. My problem sounds like a "one off", no else seems to have it?
Which reminds me I saw an explorer downtown with four extra lamps under its bumper for a total of 6 lamps in the day light.
So true, way to many people using fog lamps unnecessarily and with poor aim, many of them civics with lamps in the lower corners and blue headlamps to simulate the HID. Their safety is a concern too as some of them shine directly on to on coming traffic. They have to be aimed upwards because if they actually wanted them to work they would point them down at the road....someone should tell them hey those aren't driving lamps.
Robert
They are 1/5 the size and should be about 100K each
http://www.exconde.com/clk55.htm
Robert
Great discussions, looking forward to being a part of it....
Had the dealer activate the circuit for my 2000 ML320's fogs. What a rip-off in that the circuit is shut off in the car's CPU unless dealer activated--Yes, the switch does nothing unless activated! They originally wanted $100, I got them down to $40, which is still a rip considering it took them all of 2 minutes!
Anyway, big improvement with the fogs activated. Next project is an HID retrofit. I already tried ALL of the after market "HID look" lamps, and none are really too great--D. Stern is right on the mark.
BTW, the sky is blue because only blue light is the only wavelength that can traverse the deepest oceans, which encompass most of our earth. This light is reflected by the particulate matter in the sky and visable by day.
Very sorry to hear about your problems Bonnie - others closer to you can probably give you some good advice on pricing the car for a quick sale.
Quiet; third winter without trouble (10 foot snowfalls here); mileage 26000 and plenty of tread remaining.
Any thoughts out there for even better performance: I like quiet, 30000 mile treadwear, sports car cornering, good in snow without the noise.
Thanks..
I'm ready to talk to BB dealer to get ML. Where are you locate? May be we can work together on your ML320. Let me know. My mail is ngovtuan@hotmail.com.