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Mercedes-Benz M-class (ML320, ML350, ML500 and ML55) 2005 and earlier

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Comments

  • drew_drew_ Posts: 3,382
    Uh, FSS (known as ASSYST) is also in Europe and Asia, where vehicles are not leased as frequently as people over here (especially in Asia).

    Good luck,

    Drew
    Host
    Vans, SUVs, and Aftermarket & Accessories message boards
  • Does anyone here know of any back glass problems with the S class, 2000. We have a S500 and the back glass shattered. We've been told this is a manufacturers flaw. Does anyone here know anything about that?
  • MB designed significant changes within the new engines that enables them to have fewer oil changes. Other companies including Ford are doing this and the next MB innovation will be a zero oil change engine like our differentials and trans.( Though I've changed those for certain longevity benefits but not every 3-6000 miles.) I was all set to get a ML500 until I saw one. This is subjective but the chrome on the door handles and trunk lid and some interior trim for me exudes cheapness. I am now going to keep my beloved Black ML430 it's understated and performs wonderfully for me. If you feel disappointed in a car company well I understand. But a subtle lesson for us along with every sadness pain etc. and believe me I'm feeling these is that we're not supposed to depend on 1)our financial institutions, 2)our military, and 3)our leadership for more then they are capable of giving us. Our true security is to be found elsewhere. Thank you good driving, you do have good taste.
  • kenyeekenyee Posts: 738
    John:
    Most people think it's "good enough". It's really a question of what each person's ears tells that person. The CD changer costs $600 even from clairparts, plus you get 2 extra speakers in the back on the MY2002 (on the previous models, you got the subwoofer and the Bose equalizer treatment only), so it's worth enough as a package. People have noted marked improvements with the base sound system by replacing the speakers in the front doors w/ better quality ones so you might want to start with that. Get your salesman to throw in a CD player in the front because people seem to hate changing CDs in the back.
    I took the route of getting the base system and saving the money for speakers swaps in case it annoyed me enough. To date, it hasn't. The radio doesn't seem to have enough bass or clarity, but if you play CDs, it seems fine.
    But audio is a personal decision...and mostly a male thing ;-)
  • which is why, macho grande as I am, I went with the Bose system :)

    I figured why go the whole 40 yards when another 1.2 would finish up the audio system as well.

    It's a preference thing I guess - like I said, I tested the vehicle inside and out - another reason I skipped the MDX; I never met bigger jerks than the three Acura dealers I test drove with - who actually buys vehicles from these people?! One wouldn't let me put my own CD in the changer, with the lame excuse 'this one has a habit of eating them'. The other two I test drove didn't have the infamous touring package, and the stereo system there was almost as bad as the one in my garage (which cost all of $49 and has dual cassette and CD).
  • Has anyone ever bought one of these used, or had a dealer get him one pretty cheap?

    I would really like to get one, but the $1200 price made it really not worthwhile.
  • I know that some manufacturers ship the engine with special oil, containing certain metals, in order to help the break-in period. This extends the oil-change interval from the usual mileage to either 5,7.5, or 10k miles.

    Does anyone know if the ML's ship with a special oil, or if it's just good ole' Mobil 1.

    Also - someone on one of the MB forums posted the following break in routine - tell me what you guys think of it:

    Here it is in four pieces:

    - - - 1. DO NOT take delivery unless you can take it directly to a highway on-ramp and drive 50 miles and the back without any traffic or lights. Park it at home until you can do the first trip if you must.

    - - - 2. Travel 50 miles at a CONSTANT RPM of about 2,300, varying a little every 5-10 miles or so, but NEVER over 2,500 rpm or under 2,000. If you must then use a lower gear if you can not maintain a ''legal'' speed. When you reach 50 miles, stop the car, turn off the engine and let it cool a little (10-20 minutes, or take a short lunch). Take a return trip in just the same way, holding the speed for intervals at, say, 2,400 then at 2,100 rpm for 10-15 minutes. Still, always with 2,000 to 2,500 rpm. After the first 100 miles do not engage too many red lights or traffic and stay on the highways for 400 more miles always between 2 & 2.5k rpm.

    - - - 3. CHANGE THE OIL AFTER 300 MILES. Some will say that this is no longer necessary, but I find it a small expense to ensure no metal shavings exist from initial engine wear. Some dealers (like mine) will do even this for FREE after 1,000 miles. Do it at 300-350, even if you do it yourself (like me). AND USE SYNTHETHIC ! (From now on you can use FSS.)

    - - - 4. After 500 miles, maintain engime rpm between 1,800 and 3,000 rpm until 5,000 miles. Yes, you read it right - FIVE THOUSAND MILES ! No jack-rabbit starts and DO NOT let it idle (turn it on and MOVE). Lights and traffic are allowed, but if you can not avoid coming to a full stop then put the gear in neutral (thought not recommended) and hold the rev at about 1,300.

    That's basically it. Follow thru and you could gain 5 to 20% improvments in mileage AND POWER over the long haul. (Obviously, if you just want to Hot Rod around, as with an AMG, and then sell it after two years, You Don't Care.) For the rest who appreciate fine engines and plan to hold it a while it is worth the effort. And I will now pit my ML55 in a distance run (I average 440 to 460 miles on a tank at varying speeds mostly under 75 mph) or (short) power test with a stock ML.
  • I tried Rain X on my ML430's windshield a few months ago, and now whenever I try to clean my windshield, there is this hazy film always left on the glass. Does anyone know how to get rid of this haze or rain x residue?
  • I just wanted to report that I finally changed my tires. I _was_ annoyed that the Dunlops only lasted 23,000, but then my husband was sitting on the 40th floor of tower One of the World Trade Center on Tuesday, and he made it home ok--so now I don't give a crap about the tires! I'm just so happy to have him home.

    I'm reporting that we ordered Michelin Cross Terrains and I've been very happy with them so far. They are much quieter than my Dunlops were at the end of their life--can't remember how noisy the Dunlops were new, to be fair. I'm still plagued by wind noise from the sunroof, but now, I just really don't care.

    Sharon in NJ
  • thor8thor8 Posts: 303
    Johnny, I think all those steps are nonsense, you only have to do a couple of sensible things, for the first 1000K avoid reving the engine to high or keep constant high speeds, in other words just take it easy, and second, I know is not called for, but at 2000K I always change the oil and filter to flush out the metal particles.

    About Rainx, I have had the same problems in the past, not with the ML but with other vehicles, I could swear the Rainx permeates the glass, go to Pep Boys and they sell some good glass cleaners in a spray can, since I don't remember the name, read the label, you will know then which is the rigth one.
  • rikarika Posts: 8
    Hi!
    I know that I sounds ridiculous.I don't know anything about car......And I have no B.F to help me either. But I know that you guys know a lot about cars and Mercedes.
    My ML320/2001 now have 4000miles.
    Do I need to check oil? water? or whatever?
    Or no need at this milage?
    Then what milage at do I need to do these things?
    Thank you very much.
  • Johnnyc
    While I would never fault a rigorous break-in as you suggest( It can only help an engine I think), I think yours is just a little too rigorous for most. I've owned many many motorcycles and all have varying break-ins but *none* as hardy as yours. And they rev their engines up to 12,000 rpm. My latest bike, a Honda, suggests "riding it easy for the first 300 miles". That's all the wording they provide. Then you can rev the crap out of it. I am doing an easy 1,000 mile break-in as suggested per the manual. No fast starts, vary engine speed. That's it. I'm in an ML. I don't plan on racing it from the stoplight anyway(That's what my bike is for). But again, I don't think an extended break-in can hurt although in motorcycle circles, some suggest riding it hard to start and those people feel you get more hp from those types of break-ins. I'm not that brave so I follow the manual. Besides, the ML comes with full synth from the factory now so you could probably very easily go longer than 300 miles until the first change. Just my 2 cents
  • I was unfortunately, there in NY the day of disaster, I realize this message board is not to discuss this, however, if anyone is interested there are more and more message boards popping up all over, I just spotted this one...


    http://clubs.yahoo.com/clubs/disasterinnewyork


    Unfortunately with the cowards at lodge they may strike anywhere else in the world.

    God Bless us all, as history has experienced Good Prevails

  • things about the engine break in period (like don't stay at the same RPM for too long, don't go above 3k RPM, dont go below 500 RPM, etc.). Hard to judge what's sound advice from what's nonsense to what's overkill.

    This break in routine sounds a bit tough - I figure I'll soften it a bit, and go with it. I don't think there's any harm in the first parts of what he mentioned (100 miles at a low RPM to get the engine started), but to go the full 9 yards without going crazy will be tough.
  • my experience with the product works out this way - if you haven't buffed it enough, you'll have cloudy windows.

    The best way I've found to get rid of that is to apply even MORE RainX to the window, then clean it off with a dry cloth, then use a newspaper! Keep in mind - this will require a bit of elbow grease, and you're going to have to keep polishing away until the clouds go.

    The unfortunate side effect of an otherwise great product is that RainX does leave some residue on your window. The idea isn't to remove it completely, it's to buff it to the point where it's unnoticeable.
  • drew_drew_ Posts: 3,382
    Best thing to do is probably to follow the break-in procedure in your owner's manual when you get your vehicle. That's what I did...it's relatively simple too. Keep in mind also, that in Europe, many MB cars are driven to autobahn speeds almost immediately after delivery (people taking the European factory delivery do this too).


    Your RainX rationale seems to be what a few others have also said. I think the concensus is to apply the stuff leaving a one inch buffer zone between the applied area and the rest spot of the wipers. Those of you who are interested in tips on RainX (including removal procedures), visit the RainX discussion topic in the Aftermarket & Accessories message board.

    I'll probably get back to you regarding the phone later.
  • drew_drew_ Posts: 3,382
    I've had very good success with NoTouch's glass stripper product. It comes in a smallish black bottle with a pop-off cap and is actually a fairly thick and white liquid. After applying it, the RainX was immediately gone. You have to rinse the glass throughly after using this product since it is strong.

    Hope this helps!


    Drew
    Host
    Vans, SUVs, and Aftermarket & Accessories message boards
  • Just read about the availabilty of a dealer installed accessory - a roof mounted rear spoiler for the the ML. Anyone have one? Seen one? any comments on the appearance &/or usefulness? Thanks! ( as I await the arrival of my ML500 sport) BTW, thanks for your helpful comments on Rain X.
  • cdiccdic Posts: 36
    I remember hearing that the business about not maintaining the same speed during break-in had something to do with "setting" of the piston rings? Anyone heard that one before? I can easily believe that during break-in, you should not do what you will likely not do (ie., run at the same speed) while you use the car. I mean, unlike a generator which IS run at the same speed forever.

    As far as oil changes are concerned, I did 500, 1K, and then every time the odometer is at an even multiple of 5K, each with filter and Mobil1. It's just what works for me. I Could care less if some consider it excessive. Doubtful it is harmful, and the car cost so much, I am not about to skimp on maintenance. At least I save by doing it myself. Thankfully, our town has an oil recycle center and the Top-Sider type device makes it an easy, clean choir.

    I concur on RainX - use more of the stuff to clear the problems and elbow grease is a must - lots of it. It clouds until polished clear. Seems here in the northeast on the coast, the stuff does not work right on some humid mornings. Fog forms little droplets that don't shed. The windshield quickly becomes obscured and you end up needing the wipers in a condition you might otherwise not need them. Once you have had the wipers on for a while the stuff is ruined and you need to re-apply. Otherwise, the stuff works quite well in a downpour.
  • The idea behind not maintaining a constant speed, as I was taught many years ago, was that when you decelerate, vacuum is high which causes oil to be sucked past the rings. During break-in, this helps to add lubrication to the rings. As far as newer engines are concerned, little break-in is needed because the cylinders, pistons and rings are truly round, as compared the the older engines. If any of you go back as far as I do, you probably recall that early engines would consume quite a bit of oil during break-in and newer engines don't. This is also the reason that synthetic oil is factory fill in many engines while if it was possible to use it in the older engines, they would never break-in properly.
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