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Mercedes-Benz M-class (ML320, ML350, ML500 and ML55) 2005 and earlier

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Comments

  • chumsaechumsae Posts: 61
    ML's (not sure on the model year range) have had a recall on a hose clamp in the power steering system. This is likely your problem, and MB should fix it even if
    out of warranty. Alternatively, our 2000 ML320 just had a hose failure on a cold morning (about 20 F), and that hose cost about $50/part and $50/labor at a non-dealer shop.
  • Probably what you are hearing is the popping/snapping sound coming from the shims from the torsion bars, this is a result of dirt and rust gathered in this area, no big deal will not hurt anything but is annoying. After the car wash is goes away because the water present is acting a a very temporary lubrication.

    -Kevin
  • You are most likely experiencing a very common ailment in the the ML's, that is a faulty CPS (crank position sensor). This is an approx. $500 round trip fix to the dealer and yes no engine lights will show but if they pull the codes it will show up...been there done that.

    -Kevin
  • You have to pull the access panel that surrounds the brake pedal arm.... this really is about a 15 minute fix.

    -Kevin
  • You are most likely experiencing a very common ailment in the the ML's, that is a faulty CPS (crank position sensor). This is an approx. $500 round trip fix to the dealer and yes no engine lights will show but if they pull the codes it will show up...been there done that.
  • Go to :
    www.mercedesshop.com

    Struts all the way around shipped to your door will be about $400; any good idenpendent shop should be able to install for $80 an anxle and then ake to the dealer for an aligment for about the $230; no other shop will have the right tools to due a correct alignment.

    -Kevin
  • You received crappy advice, all four wheels are can be adjusted. You have to take the ML to a dealer for an aligment, most is not all indy shops do not have the proper tools or knowlege for this service.

    -Kevin
  • When installing new breaks the dealers are suppose to use an anti-squeal kit which is a packet of "molly-lube" lubricant apply to the various components associated with the install. Ask the dealer if this was done and if the answer is yes, ask them where is the part listing on the invoice if it is not there, then let them do it again.

    -Kevin
  • This is a recall item, have the dealer check your VIN# and see if the service was performed.

    -Kevin
  • pkunk1pkunk1 Posts: 8
    I had a PS hose pop off the other day also. It was the return hose coming from the radiator connection. Loosen the clamp, shove the hose back on & retighten. Refill the PS resavoir while tutning the steering wheel back & forth to purge the air out. May take several refillings.
  • I added some Dextron 1103 ATF to it and it made a grinding sound when I started up the engine, so I drained some fluid off, based on what I saw on the dipstick according to temperature now it has a grinding sound when I turn the steering wheel. But quiet when it is idle. So does it have too much or not enough fluid?
  • pkunk1pkunk1 Posts: 8
    I added some Dextron 1103 ATF to it and it made a grinding sound when I started up the engine, so I drained some fluid off, based on what I saw on the dipstick according to temperature now it has a grinding sound when I turn the steering wheel. But quiet when it is idle. So does it have too much or not enough fluid?)

    Get power steering fluid for it. Then you'll need to drain the ATF. Fill with fluid and work the steering wheel back and forth to purge the air out. Refill the resevoir as needed. When the air is gone & the fluid is full the gringing sound will stop.
  • pkunk1, I saw an earlier post of yours suggesting that I work the steering wheel back and forth. I have done that today after letting the engine warm up to normal operating temp and then added fluid as needed.

    My MB Operators Manual specifically listed Dextron 1103 ATF and to verify this, I called a service rep and yes he says that is what is used.....he had no idea why MB uses ATF versus power steering fluid.
  • pkunk1pkunk1 Posts: 8
    I'll stand corrected. I never looked at my manual!
    So, all is well with your steering now?
  • Yes, it seems to functioning fine now. No noise and is steering smoothly.

    So, just so I know, do you have Mclass 320 and does your manual specifiy ATF?
  • pkunk1pkunk1 Posts: 8
    2000 ML320 & my book calls for MB power steering fluid. Power steering fluid is power steering fluid, & other than color there is probably only additive differences between it and ATF. What I lost was not pink like Dextron ATF.
  • Hmm, interesting point, my power steering fluid wasn't pink either.
  • Hi, I'm having the same problem with my 2001 ML320. It died on me twice, wouldn't start again, but was OK after 20 minutes. Came home from town (about 80 ks') and would not start again. Did you find out what the problem was?
    Thanks.
  • My car has 130,000 Ks' on the clock and has given me no trouble up until a month ago. Having travelled 3,000 kilometres from Cairns to Sydney ( Australia) I noticed a couple of misses in the motor on the trip. Thinking it was dirty petrol I refilled at the next Gas Station with top grade fuel 98 always used, the rest of the journey was OK. The following week whilst driving to the mountains the BAS/ESP light came on the Instrument panel.Getting to our destination we parked the car and when we were ready to leave and started the engine,I could not get the gear lever out of Park. Yes I had my foot on the brake! Having called the Roadside Patrol he stated it was an electrical fault, no stoplights, but could not rectify the problem.
    We released the parking lock by inserting a pencil into the opening behing the flap below the D position on the gear indicator and pressed down.Lucky I had my manual with me or I might still be there now.The problem was fixed by a top Auto Electrician who new the answer by saying ,you need a new stoplight switch.Cost all up $80.00.Mercedes Benz reckoned it was a damaged nut under the gear lever All up cost $1900.00
    My problem now is that the vehicle will run for about 60-70 ks' and cut out completely. a not pleasant experience if you are overtaking someone at 100 kilometres an hour.The motor will not start. If left for 20 minutes starting is as normal.I will get Mercedes Benz Service dept. to put it on the computer check but would really appreciate it if someone could help me with this.
    Thank You Jabiru1
  • This came up after an oil change at a trusted garage. The truck has 125,000 miles.

    Coming off the line, if I accellerate slowly, there is no problem. If I accellerate with slighly more juice I hear and feel a slight "crump" (similar to running over a soda can) within the first half-revolution of my wheels, and then all is normal. If I accellerate with lots of juice, then I get the same "crump". Comes from the front of the truck.

    I do not get a crump in reverse.

    This has gone on for three months without any sign of worsening, or self-repairing.
    I've looked at the edmunds boards with no luck.

    Thanks in advance.
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