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Mercedes-Benz M-class (ML320, ML350, ML500 and ML55) 2005 and earlier

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Comments

  • zxedzxed Posts: 17
    not sure if you already bought your benz., but...
    "2000 Mercedes-Benz M-Class ML320, i have seen quite a few with what looks like an incredibly low price, Prices ranging from $8000 to $12000"

    if thats the price range you are looking at., then dont get a 200 ml320,. get a 2003+ ml350., the 320 is under powered, ., you can get a 350 for $1000 more than a 320!
  • 0435004350 Posts: 26
    My 04 ran a little rough this morning at the first traffic light about one-half
    mile away from home. While stopped at the light, I shifted it back
    to park, revved it a litte, and then back to drive. It ran normal the rest of the
    day. The fuel level was between 1/4th and 1/2 of the tank. I've always used premium since I've had it.

    Yes. I think the 06s went to the 7 speed.

    Prices are a little tricky. For example, check out the ML 350s priced in
    the Chicago area with between 35K to 50K miles. Their retail asking prices
    vary from $ 15,000 to $ 21,000 at dealers (obviously if certified at a MB dealer
    they're higher). $ 6,000 is a large differential when it should be more like $ 1,000
    to $ 2,000 apart for this vehicle regardless of options.

    Navigation was optional on the ML 350 and standard on the ML 500.
    Running boards were optional. 3rd row fold down seats were optional.

    I've tried to be objective and hope that this is helpful.

    Also bear in mind that some dealers employees strip "small" stuff out of
    these vehicles. When I got mine used there were no floor mats, the mercedes
    shifter ball with emblem was gone, even the first aid kit was gone and the salesman
    took his CD placement holder from his demo and put his in my vehicle as mine
    was also missing. The gas tank holds just over 22 gallons so try to get the
    seller to fill that although you may only get a $ 20 gas card (Mine was $ 10
    gas card but that was the good old days when premium was $ 2.29 a gallon).
    Also, try to get both keys. The dealership had to go on a hunt for the second
    key which took about a half-hour extra til they found it. Lastly, this has a space
    save spare underneath the back. Some dealers also hijack the space saver
    so bring a drop cloth with to get underneath to make sure that it's there.
  • I currently have the Pirelli but the dealer recommended the Dunlop....comments,suggestions ??

    Also- what are the advantages of getting 4 tires at the dealer Vs. Big `O` tires ,etc..

    Thanks in advance for your input,

    Alex
  • 0435004350 Posts: 26
    Very timely question. Dunlop tires on MLs have no mileage warranty.
    Mine lasted 25000 to 27000 miles, and I had several blowouts in
    2 or 3 of those tires so the Dunlops on the vehicle weren't all in the
    same shape. Two were still good, 1 was OK but starting to go and the
    last was completely shot.

    Last week, I finally decided to get all 4 Dunlops replaced with
    Continental Cross Contact LX. These have a 680 TQ rating
    with 65K warranty. These cost about $ 800 for everything with install,
    replacement certificates, taxes and balancing (before modest trade-in
    discount on the remaining good Dunlop tires). But, these Continental
    tires should last 5 or 6 years (and hopefully no more blowouts).
    Continental is running a GPS Navigation unit promotion through 11/02/08
    so I'll also be getting a Navigation system in the mail for buying the 4 tires.

    Buying tires at the dealership means that you'll likely pay more
    than at every tire store. My tires were purchased from Discount Tires
    but Tire Rack may also be feasible for you.
  • I have a 98 Chev Astro van. It acted by it was running out of gas the other day, I pulled over, it didn't die. I took gas cap off, put it back on and vehicle ran fine for about 70-80 more miles! Got it home okay. The next day, the vehicle started okay. I had decided to change the fuel filter just in case. After changing it, the vehicle would not start. The fuel pump is not pumping fuel and the vehicle won't start now. I can pour fuel into the throttle body and it will start, but won't stay running because it is not pumping fuel. Does anyone have a clue what is going on?
  • Hi there,
    I purchased the 2005 ML350 special Edition on Aug. 16, 2008. It is a certified vehicle, however, MB was suppose to complete a 60 point inspection before they put the car up for sale. According to a carfax report, nothing was ever check out from the last person who turned the car in from their lease. I have had nothing but one problem after another. Within the first week, the oil light went on as if I needed an oil change. Like I said before, this should have been done already. I brought it to the dealership and they made me pay $117 for an oil change.

    A week later, the oil light went on again but suddenly turned off. About a month later, it turned back on so I took it back in. The oil was already low and needed another quart to be added. Then there was a loud groining noise coming from the engine. I took the car in and as it turns out, my steering fluid was never replaced and it was bone dry, therefore, the steering pump broke and needed to be replaced. The torsion bars under the car were also busted and needed to be replaced. The electricl inside the gages was bad as well. The lights went out.

    Shortly after, my door locks quit locking and the windows refused to roll up. The motor for both was broken and needed to be replaced. As you can see, I have a huge headache with this vehicle and I am even more unsatisfied with the dealership where I purchased it.
  • The cost of a repair for this item on a 2000 ML is $7500. It comes as one part. Although roof electrical is still working, two dealers have told me that they cannot replace a part, It comes in one piece. You have to buy the whole roof. The part costs $6500. I am the original owner, have another Mercedes but was going to turn this in. It is a 2000 with Navigation, heated seats, cd changer, metallic paint, etc. The buy out on the car is $9700. It has 73K miles on it. Mercedes Financial wants to charge me for the repair of the roof as it is not under warrranty. So a warning to anyone out of there that is looking for this car, the roof is worth almost as much as the car..
  • 0435004350 Posts: 26
    It sounds like the selling MB dealer didn't bother to do a thorough job or completely
    skipped the actual MB certification. I would get everything checked over by another competent MB dealer, even if it costs you $ 500 more, ascertain what else is wrong and not within normal readings and get it fixed before the original 4 yrs 50K warranty runs out and also before the one year certified coverage runs out. If it will take more than a day for repairs, ask for a loaner. MB certified vehicles typically
    cost about $ 2,000 to $ 4,000 more than comparable mileage non-certified
    identical models. You paid for the extra reliability.

    You didn't say what your mileage reading, was but since it is a very expensive
    part to repair, it might also be worth having the transmission checked, if you
    are over 40K.

    45 days before the regular warranty runs out, think about getting an extended service plan if you're going to keep it for at least 3 or 4 yrs. I've already saved more money than it would have cost me for my out-of-warranty work than without the extended coverage.
  • I recently bought a used ML500 and as a DIYer, I like to perform all of my routine maintenance. I have Bentley's excellent manuals for my Porsche 911 and BMW 325ci and nothing exists of this sort for the ML.

    Can anyone suggest a name and source for such a manual?

    Thanks,

    Rennman
  • Thanks for the info. I got all of the problems fixed. I did purchase a two year extended warranty on top of the one year certified warranty, so I am covered for the next 3 years. Luckily I havent had any problems in the last month or so.
  • Can anyone suggest a good repair manual for the ML 500? I have a 2002 ML 500.
  • I am new to the Mercedes arena. I have an '02 ML 500 and I need to change the oil soon. What is the procedure for resetting the computer? I am assuming that there is a procedure similar to what exists for my wife's BMW.

    Thanks.

    Rennman
  • ficussficuss Posts: 541
    I just purchased an 06 ml350 MB certified suv with 29k miles. Can someone tell me the average mileage before a brake job is required. The car is like new and loaded with bells and whistles. Dealer installed new Continental tires and repaired minor wheel scuffs. Purchased the 2 yr. extended warranty just in case. I know brake pads are not covered. Also, how much are the MB phones that are compatable with the cars wiring?
  • 0435004350 Posts: 26
    Typically, 15,000 if mainly in-town driving to 25,000 or so with more
    highway driving. Usually, the way this was designed at least for the 2004,
    they typically recommend that the rotors also be replaced. If yours was '
    certified, on the certified check-out sheet that should show whether the
    brakes were replaced as part of that. If your front or rear brakes had more than 50% of the lining left, that applicable front or rear or both may not have been replaced as part of certification process, Brake job with rotors runs $ 500
    if someone other than dealer maybe $ 650 if dealer.

    If you are in a Northern climate, this Mercedes is great in snow. A couple
    of weeks back, when there were some other vehicles that were abandoned
    in the road in our sub-division because of a freezing rain/ice storm, the
    Mercedes managed OK driving at slow speeds on one and one half inch
    thick ice, although you still can slide off if you're going too fast when you
    brake.
  • ficussficuss Posts: 541
    Thanks for the info. I have not received the certification checkoff sheet yet, the salesman said I would get it. It is a MB certified SUV. The carfax report the dealer ran did not show any brake work being done. I will press the dealer for the checkoff sheet. Snow handling ability will come in handy this winter in Chicago, we've had 38 inches so far. My AWD Mitsubishi Endeavor which I am turning in soon was great for 4 winters, I can only hope the MB will be as good in the snow. I've had other SUVs , 2 Jeeps and Chev. Trailblazer, engaging 4wd or letting the car decide when to engage 4wd comes with a lag in traction. The AWD configuration is seamless in operation and dependable as well.
  • chumsaechumsae Posts: 61
    2000 ML320: Driving along the interstate at night at 65 MPH, the truck began bucking, tranny shifting up and down, seemingly no power. I coasted to a stop, left the engine running, looked under the hood and saw nothing obvious. Got back in and drove home without incident.

    A month later, same problem. Got back in and drove home without incident.

    Because of the transitory sense of this, after the first incident my guess was that
    the computer was zapped by a microwave, and then regained its stability.

    This second episode says it is something else (although the problems happend within a half mile of each other).
  • ficussficuss Posts: 541
    One of my old SUVs had similar problems reported on this board. The highly technical and computerized 2002 Chevy Trailblazer exhibited similar traits. They were never fully explained or solved. Turning the engine off and back on would usually cure the problem. The location where this occurred may have nothing or everything to do with it. Were you near a radar installation or some other high power RF source. There is a logical reason airlines don't want anyone to use electronic equipment onboard. They can cause harmful interference with other systems. My first instinct would be to do a search on this and other MB forums to see if anyone else has had similar malfunctions, if so what were their cures.
    Of course, there is always the obvious, was you gas cap screwed on tightly? Is the location close to your gas station. Did you just gas up both times before this happened. Don't overlook the easy possible causes, that's where the solutions can usually be found.
  • chumsaechumsae Posts: 61
    A third episode, this time more persistant and with a check engine light, brought me to the neighborhood mechanic.

    They replaced two motor mounts. This fixed an early problem with a "crunk" sound when just starting of the line, and it fixed the erractic shifting and loss of power. It also turned off the check engine light.
  • rnugentrnugent Posts: 8
    We have a new to us ML 320...a '98 w/less the 80K on the odometer. Driving it home from the used car dealer (not an MB dealer), the right front brake seemed to hang up and start smoking. Didn't feel like it was pulling to the right or other signs of brake issue. I was driving separately and got home 15-20 minutes after. Back rotors warm to touch, left front similarly warm to touch, right front noticeably hotter. Called dealer (30 day warranty upon sale!), who will bring mechanic by tomorrow to examine and tow away if necessary. I took the vehicle to the corner gas station (it was low...) maybe 1.5 to 2 miles away and back again. No smoke, nothing peculiar about the brakes. Back rotors were warm to touch, front were warmer but not overly so and left front and right front seemed same as each other. Neither 'Brake' or 'ABS' light came on during problems.

    Ideas? Suggestions? What should we expect them to do?

    Thanks,

    Raymond
  • ficussficuss Posts: 541
    Something to think about the next time you lock your car door, I tugged on the door handle of my 06 ML350 last week after locking the door with the remote. I was surprised to find the Drivers door opened on the second pull of the handle. The horn sounded the alarm but the door opened. I assume that for the past 3 months my car wasn't locked when I thought it was locked. MB repaired the lock at no charge and gave me a very nice 2010 C300 to use for 2 days. You might want to check to see if your door is really locked when you think it is locked.
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