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Volkswagen Eurovan DIY Tips

2

Comments

  • linomanlinoman Posts: 1
    Hi, I have an 1992 EuroVan and I have backdoor problems.
    I simply can not open it to replace the latch. The panel is alresdy off so I could reach most of it from the inside. HELP. I use the van for work so it is a little abused but I still call it my baby. :)
  • sbaussiesbaussie Posts: 5
    Wonderful thing the Internet. Typed in eurovan ignition switch and found your comments. Cant open the instruction sheet. Anybody have it out there . appreciate any response.
  • weekender3weekender3 Posts: 15
    I have posted the instructions here:
    http://www.carspace.com/guides/Ignition-Switch-replacement
    If you have any questions, feel free to ask me.
    JB :)
  • I have a '92 Eurovan with a 5 speed manual. Typically, when engaging reverse, you put the shift lever into neutral, move it to the left until it stops, push down vertically on the stick, move it further left and then up into reverse. However, today when I was in traffic, I put the van into what I thought was 1st gear but began to move backwards. When I got home I verified that I no longer had to push down vertically to engage reverse. Simply moving the stick to the left and pushing up engages reverse. Reverse is where it should be (as I can't shift into anything if I pull the stick back), and it shifts into the other 5 gears normally. It is just a little hard finding 1st when you're used to moving the stick forward once you meet resistance on the left.

    Is this a bad thing? Is it something that needs to/can be fixed? Does this phenomenon have a specific name? Any input would be greatly appreciated.
  • larvalarva Posts: 2
    My Eurovan makes an awful clunking sound when I accelerate. It gets worse as time goes by, but when my husband and I take it apart to try to find the problem (haven't diagnosed it yet) and put it back together the noise goes away for a few days. And then it comes back again... worse. It sounds like something is loose? and hitting another piece of metal? am I imagning things or is the left front tire wobbly now? The noise is so bad I'm afraid to drive it. And it's my daily drive for me and my four kids. Please help! Any ideas are welcome!
  • I looked at your sequence of pictures to replace the ignition switch on my 2001 and I have a bolted cover plate on the bottom of the steering column. How do I take it off so I can get at the ignition switch? I see four nuts across the bottom section. If I take those off will it come out?
    Thanks,
  • No, the nuts will not remove the plate. On the left side (door side) you will see a cover plate, made in the same material as the console. Push the two plastic pins in, so you can remove this cover. now you will see two bolts, remove them. On the other side, you will find the same bolt from underneath, (look up from underneath) just loosen this bolt, as it might be difficult to get it out. Now you should be able to turn the plate downwards to get access.

    Good luck!
  • I wish Id read this post before I did the switch switch as I pried the plastic cover off. Apart from that the job is pretty easy. A bit of a contortionist act to get to the switch but doable. To get the set screw at the back of the switch out. I used one of those offset srewdrivers (two ends are at 90 degree to main axis) . I had to grind a little of the corner to get it in there but after that it took about 4 minutes to swap the swich. Turned the key and PERFECTO.
    Now I have to fix the power locks. Any else having problems with them. Already swapped out the lock Actuator on the drivers side but it didnt fix the problem.
    problem is you push he door lock button on the key and all the locks close (except drivers) then open up again immediately.
    any ideas appreciated
  • Same problem but more interesting . When the door locks go spastic I just turn off the radio it stops the door locks misbehaivour? .Ive pulled out the door lock actuator on the drivers side (that doesn't respond to key remote). It is fine . tested it with a 12 V source and it goes up and down no problems.. If operated manually( when connected) all the other locks respond to it ie. open and close to match drivers side.
    Someone suggested frayed bad wires in the loom where they go through from the door to the chassis, Mine look fine??
    did you get any answers??
    Im toying with the idea of writing to VW as I know this is a common problem.
    You can just pull fuse # 11 on the bottom row to get manual control back
    Mike
  • I have a 1983 Vanagon GL, however it is probably the same problem I had. I had to have my shifter rod that runs the length of the Vanagon back to the transmission from the shifter replaced. There are dogears on that rod and over time they wear down and let it shift right into reverse. If you find that this is the problem..... I can tell you who would probably have the part brand new. You can reach me at mtlrcks666@yahoo.com. :shades:
  • I'm having problems with the passenger's door latch on my 2001 Eurovan sometimes sticking and not engaging. I'm trying to get the door panel off to look inside and see what's happening, and it doesn't easily snap off. Suggestions on how to remove the door panel would be appreciated, as well as any advice on what might be causing the latch problem. It manifests as if the lock has not disengaged. The handle pulls out freely but the latch doesn't open.

    Ralph
  • Anyone have any diy tips on how to replace the front turn signal bulbs? Seems that the front headlamp needs to come out to get to the turn lamps, but wanted to make sure that was the path required. Thanks.
  • Hello,
    I am having difficulty removing the ignition lock cylinder. The symptom we are experiencing is the key will turn, but the car will not start. It seems to not be able to make a connection. When you pull the key out the electrical systems stay on in the dash board, like the battery light, and other warning lights which stay on when the car is not running. I have taken the steering wheel covers off, but the screws that need to be removed to replace the cylinder are specialty 3 pronged heads which a phillips will not fit.
    I have also disconnected the battery so as not to run it down.
    Thank you,
    jcolombo86
  • Your problem seems to be the ignition switch and not the ignition lock cylinder. the switch is located on the backside of the ignition lock cylinder.
    Go here for more information on how to change it.
    Ignition switch replacement

    Good luck :)
  • Hello,
    Thank you for your response and guidance. Just to make sure I understand it is your suggestion to start with the ignition switch first? The symptom we are experiencing with the ignition is it will not start the van (of course), when we pull the key out the dash lights stay on, and there is no feeling any longer of resistance when turning the key.
    Your pictures are extremely helpful and if I am to do the replacement, do I need to take the steering wheel off, or other parts of the dash?
    Thank you very much.
  • I have an 01 Eurovan MV and have been folowing the yahoo.com group under autos and they have a very active group of knowledgeable owners and mechanics. The Ign switch is often the source of just what you are experiencing as wellas other. The switch is avail. from one of the site members much less $ than dealer and should only run $10-12. There are also photos in their archives detailing the switch replacement which is not difficult, however it requires a bent small screwdriver ( or allen) which you can make. Hope this helps. I've learned much about the quirks and loyalty of both the vans and their interesting owners and devotees. Bryan C.
  • You likely have this fixed by now but I don't often get to this site. The EV's often have wiring that parts or breaks at the flex joint where the door and the front door post meet. It is an easy repair to just crimp or solder an extra length when repairing the break. This is a common problem and affects door locks, etc. ev-update site at Yahoo groups has very active of owners and mechanics who are so patient with us shadetree DIY types. Look up the site and the wealth of info.. Enjoy your EV.
  • Just follow the instructions I gave you. The pictures are of an older model. On the 2002 model you will have to remove the knee panel below the steering wheel. You will find a plastic cover on the door side. there is a pin, that you will have to push in to remove it. There you will find bolts M8 13mm wrench, take those out. on the other side you will find the same bolts. remove the top one and try to losen the lower one. The lower one is hard to remove, so just slide it down, so you get axcess to release the plug that is connected to the switch.
    DO NOT REMOVE THE STEERING WHEEL! AND BE CAREFULL AROUND IT, THERE IS THE AIRBAG AND YOU DON'T WAN'T IT TO GO OFF! :sick:
    If you don't feel resistance in the ignition lock, it can be the lock too. hard to diagnose over the net. But the switch is around 10 bucks, so start with the cheapest part. If the lock cylinder is worn, you probably won't be able to replace it yourself. As you will need the proper cylinder, that can only be purchased trough the dealership (Anti theft device reasons) plus you will need special tools. Normally the cylinder can be set to your key, so you won't have a different key to start your car. Had to do this on my rear hatch, as someone tried to brake in an broke the lock.
    Good luck :)
  • I had the same problem in my 92 Eurovan. The only real fix for it is to replace the automatic transmission with a manual conversion. Really. The automatics in these vans are - and let's not be coy about it - shite. I bought my Eurovan a month ago, had it certified and was driving it to the Ministry of Transport when the transmission gave up the ghost at a stop light. It's currently being converted to a 5-speed.

    Check out your local paper for cheap Eurovans or Transporters with manual gearboxes for sale. It may seem like an expensive option but putting another crap automatic is just flushing your money down the loo.
  • stebsstebs Posts: 1
    My 2002 eurovan has a brake booster which seems to be leaking pressure. Takes a few minutes to get brake power built up. I understand I should be able to do it myself unless the brake cylinder needs replacing too. Any suggestions out there?
  • sam203sam203 Posts: 8
    Hello,
    I have a 2001 Eurovan (now parked at the grocery store) that when I turn the key, the dashlights stay on but no resistance in the turning and no response (no clicks, no sound, nothing) . When I pull the key out the lights on the dash remain on. I had to disconnect the battery cable to prevent the battery from running down.
    The ignition replacement instructions you posted were unavailable. There was a pdf but the link has gone bad. Can you repost your sequence of ignition replacement instructions?

    Thank you for any help. I'm stuck.

    Sam
  • jcolombojcolombo Posts: 6
    We looked at this, and ended up going to our dealership as this is not a job for the faint of heart.
    We had an experienced shop attempt this - twice and $1,400.00 later, ended up going to dealership and all is well.
    Moral of this story is go to dealership. Should cost $900-$1,100.00.
    Good luck.
  • sam203sam203 Posts: 8
    Hello again. I was able to get the old plug out and the new ignition switch in and struggled to get the little screw back in. The dash lights did not come on (as before) when I reconnected the battery (this looked like a good sign). The clock and radio mileage indicator came on as normal. I tried to turn the ignition but the screw came loose again and no start. Does the screw have to be secure for it to get the ignition going or is the screw just for achoring the ignition switch.
    Also, is it possible that I have to put the streering color assembly, etc.. back together for it to work?
    Here is the dreaded question, if the ignition didn't work with the new switch (and all the above doesn't impact anything) does that mean the ignition lock cylinder?

    Thanks in advance,

    Sam
  • sam203sam203 Posts: 8
    edited May 2011
    Hello again. I was able to get the old plug out and the new ignition switch in and struggled to get the little screw back in. The dash lights did not come on (as before) when I reconnected the battery (this looked like a good sign). The clock and radio mileage indicator came on as normal. I tried to turn the ignition but the screw came loose again and no start. Does the screw have to be secure for it to get the ignition going or is the screw just for achoring the ignition switch.
    Also, is it possible that I have to put the streering color assembly, etc.. back together for it to work?
    Here is the dreaded question, if the ignition didn't work with the new switch (and all the above doesn't impact anything) does that mean the ignition lock cylinder?

    Thanks in advance,

    P.S. When I tried again, the ignition is frozen and will not allow the key to turn. Can these switches short out?

    Sam
  • weekender3weekender3 Posts: 15
    I'm pretty sure, the screw is only holding the switch in place, so it can't fall out. I don't think it takes any tortion. You can test by checking if the switch turns when you turn the key in the ignition. Make sure the switch is align properly inside where the switch meets the ignition lock cylinder.
    It sounds more like that your ignition lock cylinder is faulty. As the switch doesn't give any resistance to the assembly. Do you feel the clicks when you turn the key? I guess too, if you can't turn the key anymore that this has to do with the ignition lock and not with the switch. To further diagnose the problem, you would have to remove the switch and check the functionality of the lock itself to outrule a locking by the switch. You have to put that little screw in though on the end. The dashboard doesn't need to be assembled for the car to start.
    As I said before, it sounds more like a faulty lock cylinder.
  • sam203sam203 Posts: 8
    Ok, so I'll remove switch to see if the ignition turns, after I make sure it is aligned properly. If it doesn't turn, that could highlight a faulty lock cylinder, right?

    Is that the one I have to go Dealership on?

    By the way, it did turn the first time I tried this morning once I had it connected. Then the second time I tried, it locked.

    The parts rep., this a.m., asked me if I needed the "cylinder" with the ignition switch.
  • weekender3weekender3 Posts: 15
    I would test it without the switch mounted, then mount the switch again and test again. If the lock cylinder is broken you most likely have to see a dealer, as you need special tools to change it I would assume. Ask them if you can change the cilynder yourself or not. Parts guys are parts guys and usally not mechanics.
  • sam203sam203 Posts: 8
    Confusing since it was turning so freely yesterday (when it first happened with all the lights on the dash going even without the key in).
    I will try retesting.
  • sam203sam203 Posts: 8
    I was able to find a website that sells aftermarket ignition lock cylinders with keys (affordably priced: ~$12).
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