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Volkswagen Eurovan DIY Tips



  • I made you a quick instruction sheet.

  • fbrawsr0fbrawsr0 Posts: 16
    I could not open the document. Please try again,
  • tryondantryondan Posts: 2
    Thanks so much. Can't wait to try it.
  • fbrawsr0fbrawsr0 Posts: 16
    A great big thanks to weekender3 for the instructions, I followed your directions but chickened out at the last minute, I got scared after seeing the wires I would have to pull out to get to the switch. Instead took it to Sunset Motors (VW) in Sunset Beach on PCH in CA close by. Hector the owner, did a good job and am pleased with the service, unlike others he took on the job and was all done within 5 hours promptly and he knew what to do, cost me $200.
  • Oh boy, 200 bucks!
    There is only the plug to disconnect for the switch, thats all.
    It took me 30 minutes to do it, and I'm not a mechanic.
  • Karen_CMKaren_CM Posts: 5,020
    Would you mind posting this as a guide on CarSpace? I think it would be very helpful to many and easier to find when doing a search.

    Community Manager If you have any questions or concerns about the Forums, send me an email,, or click on my screen name to send a personal message.

  • didachedidache Posts: 1
    Hello. My 2001 Eurovan (70k) will not always go into reverse. There is no grinding, it simply does not engage. After pressing the accelerator repeatedly (revving), it will kind of "jump" into reverse suddenly. At first I believed this happened primarily when the vehicle was cold (sitting over night); but now it is happening most of the time. I've read that the 2000-2003 Eurovans have had transmission probs. Anyone have any thoughts as to some simple things to check first before making the decision to spend big $$?
  • Okay, I posted it in the guide section.
  • robhaharobhaha Posts: 2
    My 2002 had a slow shift problem at 35k. VW replaced it after trying everything else first. It was a 5k job but done under warranty. It went out again at 105k and this time there was only an aftermarket warranty that had a lifetime limit almost met. VW said they don't repair, only replace for 6k. AAMCO did a rebuild for 4300 but I think they broke the clock spring by letting the steering column spin around freely while the rack and pinion was down. I can't prove it. You could get a used car warranty easily with those miles and then in a month or two, make a claim. Good Luck. Rob
  • linomanlinoman Posts: 1
    Hi, I have an 1992 EuroVan and I have backdoor problems.
    I simply can not open it to replace the latch. The panel is alresdy off so I could reach most of it from the inside. HELP. I use the van for work so it is a little abused but I still call it my baby. :)
  • sbaussiesbaussie Posts: 5
    Wonderful thing the Internet. Typed in eurovan ignition switch and found your comments. Cant open the instruction sheet. Anybody have it out there . appreciate any response.
  • weekender3weekender3 Posts: 15
    I have posted the instructions here:
    If you have any questions, feel free to ask me.
    JB :)
  • I have a '92 Eurovan with a 5 speed manual. Typically, when engaging reverse, you put the shift lever into neutral, move it to the left until it stops, push down vertically on the stick, move it further left and then up into reverse. However, today when I was in traffic, I put the van into what I thought was 1st gear but began to move backwards. When I got home I verified that I no longer had to push down vertically to engage reverse. Simply moving the stick to the left and pushing up engages reverse. Reverse is where it should be (as I can't shift into anything if I pull the stick back), and it shifts into the other 5 gears normally. It is just a little hard finding 1st when you're used to moving the stick forward once you meet resistance on the left.

    Is this a bad thing? Is it something that needs to/can be fixed? Does this phenomenon have a specific name? Any input would be greatly appreciated.
  • larvalarva Posts: 2
    My Eurovan makes an awful clunking sound when I accelerate. It gets worse as time goes by, but when my husband and I take it apart to try to find the problem (haven't diagnosed it yet) and put it back together the noise goes away for a few days. And then it comes back again... worse. It sounds like something is loose? and hitting another piece of metal? am I imagning things or is the left front tire wobbly now? The noise is so bad I'm afraid to drive it. And it's my daily drive for me and my four kids. Please help! Any ideas are welcome!
  • I looked at your sequence of pictures to replace the ignition switch on my 2001 and I have a bolted cover plate on the bottom of the steering column. How do I take it off so I can get at the ignition switch? I see four nuts across the bottom section. If I take those off will it come out?
  • No, the nuts will not remove the plate. On the left side (door side) you will see a cover plate, made in the same material as the console. Push the two plastic pins in, so you can remove this cover. now you will see two bolts, remove them. On the other side, you will find the same bolt from underneath, (look up from underneath) just loosen this bolt, as it might be difficult to get it out. Now you should be able to turn the plate downwards to get access.

    Good luck!
  • I wish Id read this post before I did the switch switch as I pried the plastic cover off. Apart from that the job is pretty easy. A bit of a contortionist act to get to the switch but doable. To get the set screw at the back of the switch out. I used one of those offset srewdrivers (two ends are at 90 degree to main axis) . I had to grind a little of the corner to get it in there but after that it took about 4 minutes to swap the swich. Turned the key and PERFECTO.
    Now I have to fix the power locks. Any else having problems with them. Already swapped out the lock Actuator on the drivers side but it didnt fix the problem.
    problem is you push he door lock button on the key and all the locks close (except drivers) then open up again immediately.
    any ideas appreciated
  • Same problem but more interesting . When the door locks go spastic I just turn off the radio it stops the door locks misbehaivour? .Ive pulled out the door lock actuator on the drivers side (that doesn't respond to key remote). It is fine . tested it with a 12 V source and it goes up and down no problems.. If operated manually( when connected) all the other locks respond to it ie. open and close to match drivers side.
    Someone suggested frayed bad wires in the loom where they go through from the door to the chassis, Mine look fine??
    did you get any answers??
    Im toying with the idea of writing to VW as I know this is a common problem.
    You can just pull fuse # 11 on the bottom row to get manual control back
  • I have a 1983 Vanagon GL, however it is probably the same problem I had. I had to have my shifter rod that runs the length of the Vanagon back to the transmission from the shifter replaced. There are dogears on that rod and over time they wear down and let it shift right into reverse. If you find that this is the problem..... I can tell you who would probably have the part brand new. You can reach me at :shades:
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