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Mazda Tribute

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  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,966
    Good question.

    steve_, "Aftermarket for 2005 SE-R Spec V" #9, 14 Jul 2005 5:11 pm

    Hopefully that SEMA link in my post will start working again shortly.

    Steve, Host

    Moderator
    Minivan fan. Feel free to message or email me - stever@edmunds.com.

  • greetings, just read your situation with the 2005 tribute, I have a 2005 also and cannot locate or find OEM mudguards from mazda and wrote to Mazdausa and some dealers and came up empty, have you found out any more info yet? Thanks! Ron :cry:
  • greetings, I also have a 2005 tribute and cannot find the OEM mudguards, but thinking to order the 2004 type to see if they fit but color of the painted ones won't match being the cladding has a different (shade) color on the 2005's, please send any info you might have, Thanks! Ron :cry:
  • rcinmdrcinmd Posts: 139
    I noticed that the inside release for the fuel door has been eliminated on the '06 models, apparently as a cost-saving measure. Or have there been issues with that feature? I have an '05.
    Any other changes I have missed?
  • stigstig Posts: 4
    I'm still flap-less, waiting for a while to see if Mazda eventually will come out with them (wishful thinking maybe). My Mazda dealer told me that the 2004 mud flaps probably would not be a perfect fit on the 2005.
  • Can anyone tell me how to replace my blown fog light bulbs? I'm half tempted to remove the lower cowling right under the light itself but I can't find anyone who can tell me if I'm right. I don't have time to mess around with it so if you can help ....Thanks
  • nortsr1nortsr1 Posts: 1,060
    The Ford Escape mudflaps should fit.
  • I have a 2001 Mazda Tribute that started to have an idling problem just after the warranty ran out. It generally starts after the car has had a chance to warm up and races up to about 2K RPM's while in drive and goes totally out of control when the car is shifted in to park. I have to hurry to shut it off or I am afraid that my engine will be blown. I've had the idle valve and EGR sensor replaced twice and it still ran the same way. My mechanic washed his hands of it and told me to take it to the dealership. At first they didn't have a clue but not they have come up with the solution that I need a new throttle body (which according to the svc manager is equivalent to a carburator.) The mechanic said he'd never seen one do this. Has anyone else had this problem? I'm worried the mechanic is grasping at straws and just trying to find something he can fix.
  • j30j30 Posts: 30
    I am hearing a low rattle when I am coasting and ease the gas back on to come up to speed. The RPM's are at 1500-2000 when the rattle occurs. The noise does not happen when I hit the gas hard enough to cause a downshift. I am lugging the engine by using a light foot or is this a characteristic of a timing chain? Anyone else hear this slight rattle, it is really low, turn off the radio and be on a nice smooth road. :confuse:

    05 Trib V6 with 12k on the clock.
  • bfkbfk Posts: 5
    How does the Tribute/Escape perform on sandy beach?

    Excellent/Good/Bad?
  • bfkbfk Posts: 5
    I always wonder what Mazda means by "Advance Torque Control Coupling" in their 2005 Tribute and wonder whether they have made BIG a mistake by removing the manual 4wd (high) setting in earlier model (therefore make the Tribute less offroad/sand capable).

    However after doing a bit of research on their ATCC, I feel a bit more comfortable and find that the new system may be better than the older manual system:

    1- The system is running in a locked 4WD (50/50 locked?) when start up until a certain minimum speed (not sure when it switches over to 2WD - from gear 2?)
    2- It is running as a 2WD from a certain minimum speed (from gear 2?) until the system decide to engage 4WD (variable torque distribution depending on the situation - probably using a multi-plate clutch) BEFORE the front wheels slip (not sure how the system detects this but apparently via many inputs: throttle, wheels' speed, etc.).
    3- Not sure when the system will switch back to 2WD (when the front wheels and the rear wheels travel at the same speed?)
    3- The system will switch to a locked 4WD driving mode (50/50 ?) IF it found that the 2WD to 4WD switching hapens too often to prevent system overheating.
    4- 4WD will be disengaged when the system overheats (should not happens if the system works properly?)
    5- When the system overheat it will run in 2WD and will function again when it cool down enough.

    I would feel very comfortable with this system if it works as I have just described (except for missing of 4WD low but that is a different story).

    Can someone knows the Tribute/Escape or work on the Tribute/Escape comment on this?

    Thanks.
  • hcorhcor Posts: 15
    Any update on the availability of that rear hidden storage kit for the 2005 and newer Tributes? I am talking of the one that uses the space where the spare tire used to be in the back. My dealer has no knowledge of any here in Canada.
  • saz61saz61 Posts: 2
    Help! Is extensive front end work typical on these cars at 55,000 miles?

    Following up on a noise in the front end, I took the car to the dealer and was told I need: the "rack and pinion, tie rod ends, front pads and rotors replaced; an alignment, and new tires;" plus assorted other work unrelated to the front end. I have to wonder how much of this work is necessary. :confuse:
  • rcinmdrcinmd Posts: 139
    The hidden storage "module" as I call it, became available on Escapes last December or so. It has yet to be shown as an option on Tributes for some reason. But based on what I have seen, it will drop into the Tribute easily. That was my biggest gripe with the redesign initially, not having storage back there, but it seems Ford's primary focus at first was dealing with the Hybrid, and that is where the battery pack is installed. It is such an cheap option on the Escape, packaging both the hidden storage compartment and the roll up shade for $150. My suggestion is to keep looking for an Escape with the package which has been driven by the numerous tailgating make-up application artists who had been sidetracked by dialing the cell phone......oh oh, now I'm in trouble.

    My biggest gripe with the vehicle now? An interior that sounds like I have filled it with milk and Rice Krispees, or however you spell it. Otherwise, not a bad vehicle. The 2.3 at just over 5000 miles, following very careful break in, is starting to feel its oats. There's far more power now climbing a couple of the interstate 'mountains' near here.
  • sjaaksjaak Posts: 2
    Last september I bought me a 2001 Tribute ES (3.0 V6 4wd 40.000 miles) The car was imported from USA to The Netherlands in 2003.
    Two weeks ago we drove to Paris (France) towing a 1000 kg caravan. Driving 100 km/h the motor ran 5000 rpm, a little uphill on the motorway. I heard a strange, ticking sound. Better slow down I tought: driving 80 km/h and 400 rpm the noise didnt dissappear. After another 5 km there was a place for a safe stop, there I phoned for assistance.
    A french monteur called it a "grande problem", the Trib on transport back to Holland and we got alternative transport: in a Volkswagen Touran I towed the caravan one day later to Paris and our holiday could start.
    Louvre, Eiffeltower, Montmartre etc. Real nice.

    Now the Trib is back, my dealer found a damaged crankshaft, the ......bearings (I dont know the word for the connection from piston to crancshaft) were found back in little pieces. The only way to get this kind of damage is to run a motor without oil, but oil was on max level.

    So far my Trib experience.
    Anyone with this kind of problem? Bad buy or just bad luck and after repair no problem any more?
  • saz61saz61 Posts: 2
    Update...

    It pays to get a second opinion...

    After consulting several mechanics, it was clear problems like this were not typical. I had one look at the car: nothing wrong with the rack and pinion that a little spray lubricant on the knuckle wouldn't take care of; no problems with the tie rod ends; the front pads and rotors were in good condition; and no need for the other assortment of work they recommended. The only work the dealer recommended worth doing was the tires and an alignment, both of which I planned to do before the northeast winter was upon me.

    ...this dealer won't get the job, or ever sell me another car. :D
  • scape2scape2 Posts: 4,119
    Wow! this doesn't look good for the dealership. Did you report this to anyone above in Mazda? I own both an Escape and a Tribute. My Escape had to have rotors and pads done at about 50k. This is typical for these vehicles because of the V6 weight over the front tires. I figure this as normal wear and tear. Glad to see you got another opinion.. :surprise:
  • I am not to sure if I am having the same problem as this one. I have a Tribute 2002 V6. When I start my car, (which does start), it then feels like it will stall on me. And the truck starts to shake. Then after driving 20 minutes, problem goes away. I have brought it to the delear but everytime I bring it there, truck is fine and when he does his tests on the computer, everything passes. It has been a waste of time. Is this the same stalling issue that you have had? What was the fix? For me, it seems that I am getting this problem whenever there is a sudden change in temperature or when there is humidity in the air.

    I hope anyone out there has had the same problem and what you have done to fix this. I really would appreciate it.

    Thanks,

    joe_2476
  • taidtaid Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Mazda tribute and the OD(overdrive) light is flashing. Does anyone know what may be wrong with it? Please advise.

    Thanks,
  • I just had the same high idle problem where my 2001 tribute lurched forward when downshifting at stops. The dealer replaced the throttle body and Idle Air valve and all is now fine. They had to do this twice since the first throttle body was apparently defective.
  • As a follow up, the dealer changed the IAC module on my car but still the same problem happens. Now it really does seem problem happens when its raining outside or condenstaion forms at night. Can this be the cabling for the spark plugs? My tribute has about 58000Km.
  • 2-yr old Tribute has around 25,000 miles. Have already replaced pads. Am now getting a squealing sound sometimes when applying brakes. Anyone want to help?
  • I would like to hear from anyone with a 4 cyl, 5 spd 4X4. How do you like it? What kind of MPG are you getting? How does it do on inclines? Thanks
  • I'm hearing the same thing with my 2001 mazda tribute (manual trans) 2wd 4cy. I started hearing the noise right after the warranty was up (about a couple of months ago (around 40k miles).

    Also I have been experiencing a tapping noise. I noticed it about at 15-20k miles. You can hear it when your in neutral with the ac on, turn off the ac and the noise kinda goes away for a bit then comes back but not as loud. I noticed that when you press on the clutch the tapping noise goes away. I brought it to MAZDA and they said they couldn't hear the noise.

    Another issue I had was with the clutch squeaking every time I pressed on it. Brougth it to Mazda and they stated they had to replace the clutch. The squeaked did not totally go away, just can barely hear the squeak, although it was alot better and not as noticeable. It still squeaks and it seems like it's getting a bit louder but at a very slow rate.

    Is there anyone that is having or had the same issues?
    Please reply and let me know what was done to fix it and or recommendations. Any help is greatly appreciated.
  • YES, that is what the repair shop told me a week ago.
    I was driving down the road, I had recently gave it a bit of gas to get out of a drveway, nothing too dramatice tho. As I pulled to a stoplight my tribue died. It would not start back up, sounded like it wanted to but just could not. So we took it to a repair shop and the did a diagnostic on it and that was fine, and the compression test showed a little high, but they could not find anything reasonable wrong with it. They added new plugs and wires and then when trying to get it started it backfired on them.
    After a lot of thinking and tinkering and MONEY, they took off the oil pan and discovered the crankshaft had some damage to it. they are talking a whole rebuild or putting in another engin. I have had this SUV for a year and a half and kelp up on the maitnence. When I took it itno a place to get the oil changed last January I had them check the plugs, they said they were fine and would not need to be replaced until 100 thousand mile. Well has 75000 right now and the machanic is telling me the plugs were beying damaged. I am going to look into this a bit further.
  • rcinmdrcinmd Posts: 139
    I've had my '05 4 cyl, 5 spd, AWD now one year. I have just over 6000 miles on it. I broke it in very very carefully. Once I was willing to take it out on the highway at speed, which was at about 1200 miles, I found that climbing one of the 'hills' on Interstate 70, heading east between Hagerstown and Frederick, it would not want to get much above 70 mph. Now, it has no problem doing 80. So I have to say the engine has loosened up nicely. It is an engine that definitely comes on the cam around 3000 rpm, pulling very strongly from that point. Down low, it is a bit weak, though I have found that it now launches off the line stronger than it did when new. I just did a trip last night heading west to Cumberland, and the climbs there coming back east are steeper than those between here and Frederick, and I had no issue holding 60 mph in the worst areas, staying in fifth gear. I would imagine the FWD version would be a bit stronger. All in all, I much prefer having gotten this setup than I would have the 6 and automatic. Now, were I a family of four on vacation, I might change my mind. But for a fun to drive SUV, this was the way to go.
    As for mileage....well, wish it were better. I do about 21 mpg in my normal local running around. The trip last night got me 25 mpg. I have yet to take a long interstate trip. I'll do that going to Fla next month. I am assuming I'll see about 28.
    I finally solved the horrid doors-in-the-openings creaking by applying Armor All. The silicone sprays just did not do the trick.
    I'm still thinking Mazda5 though. I might regret it if I do it. I am liking the Tribute more and more. I hauled home a 32 inch tv last week, in the box, and it fit just fine. Ended up buying an identical set last night, but this time I had them take it out of the box to make it easier to get into the house, and it fit behind the back seat with plenty of room to spare.
  • I took my 2004 tribute (~40000 mi) in today for brakes to find out that the ceramic pads are still pristine, but the rotors need to be REPLACED. Not turned, replaced. I was also having the same intermittent squealling of brakes. Hope yours isn't the same! Anyone else have this problem?
  • sjaaksjaak Posts: 2
    My Tribute 3.0 V6 was repaired by the Mazda-dealer, a new engine was installed. Very glad this was all guarantee!
    Diagnose: the oil-pump gave up and the sensor didn't work.
    (If the sensor should have worked properly and the warninglight "oilpressure low" flashed on it would have been too late anyway!)

    :-) Driving my Tribby again :-)
  • I have 2001 Mazda Tribute V6. I have no power to the wheels
    but the engine engines fine (except for a "Whirring " type noise from under the hood.). Just prior to this the overdrive light had come on and the oil light was flickering a few days before (oil is up to the level and clean, tranny fluid the same). When the car is cold I can put into drive and have power to the wheels (I did not drive though, for fear of wrecking something). It's in shop right now but I would like to give them and idea of what is wrong with it before they go straight into the transmission. Any ideas? Thanks.
  • 28000 Km - 2001 Tribute - 2.0 - 4 cl - Manual Transmission

    I can't tell you how much I'm hating this car. Ever since I bought it in 2001, it's been to the shop more than 10 times.
    The Check Engine light on is a pemanent thing now.
    Brake pads have been changed twice now.
    New clutch system installed in 2003, giving problems again.

    NOW, the spark plugs. The 4th one (first from right to left) has been changed twice in one day and it keeps burning them.

    I wish I could just sell the darn thing!
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