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Jeep Cherokee

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Comments

  • For some time my sport is becoming harder to start. I took it to a dealer and he replaced the fuel pump. It worked fine for a couple of days then became hard to start again. The strange thing is that if the jeep is parked on an uphill grade with the nose higher it will start on the first crank. If the jeep is level or in a nose down attitude it cranks and cranks before starting. HELP :cry:
  • That's interesting. If the symptoms were reversed, hard to start when facing uphill, I'd say it was the fuel pump as well. Since it's the other way around, I don't know. :confuse: :blush:

    How good of a mechanic are you? I would start by making absolutely sure the engine is getting plenty of air and the ignition system is functioning properly. I'm wondering if the engine is receiving too much fuel at startup when parked in the nose down or level position. Could the fuel pressure regulator be faulty? How about leaking/really dirty fuel injectors?

    I hate to be so vague, but I'm really a "hands on" type of mechanic. I have to see, hear and smell what the engine is doing most of the time.
  • I didn't see a problem either, that's why I didn't respond. Every Jeep I've got, and there are three of them sitting in my garage, ran at 210 degrees from the factory. I put 185 degree t-stats in my Wrangler and Cherokee, but the Grand Cherokee I left alone. The electric fan on my Cherokee doesn't always come on when I think it should, but it never overheats either.

    Ease up on dancerman, he's an asset to this forum. :shades:
  • Do you observe the same behavior, i.e. starts best when nose is up, with a full fuel tank? empty tank? I'm wondering if there's a problem that causes a vacuum in the tank preventing the pump from pulling fuel. Perhaps the return line is collapsing or plugged. I've noticed that my '99 cranks more than normal at times but haven't tried to analyze it. Your uphill/downhill difference is interesting. Let us know if you solve it.
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    Had problum with my 2000 gc on right side of fire wall behind ac accululater is a computer plug in
    i had to disconect mine and clean conectons put dilet grease on it and no more troubles

    make sure you disconect the bat befor cleaning or disconecting cable to computer

    tonyb
  • Hi...

    I bought this jeep a week ago. The other day I took this jeep on I-90 and i realized that the car vibrates like crazy on high speeds (55 MPH onwards). Am not sure with the solution.. i read a few post but it didnt help...I even took it to the jeep dealer who changed the U joint and polished the front axle, and he told me that the tires have developed a chop since the previous owner did not rotate the tires. But I dont think this is the only prob.. The noise has gone down but not completely.... The jeep has not been lifted.. please help me with this issue...

    Mikkin
  • Lots of things can cause vibration. Tire condition and balance is probably the first thing to check. Worn shocks and worn steering components can also cause vibration. I think I would be more insisting that the dealer fix the problem. He has already admitted that he sold you a vehicle with problem tires. Tell him to replace them. The only other thing you may consider is to take it to another garage and pay them to diagnose the vibration. PS I have never heard of axle polishing. :confuse:
  • lubyluby Posts: 1
    my jeep began to stall or something, if feels like it back fires, it happens when i accelerate fast but not too fast
    i changed the fuel filter and now im thinking maybe i should add fuel injector cleaner and see if it still have same problems
    but some one told me it might be timing belt problems, its never been changed and the car has almost 140k miles on it
    does any one know anything about timing belts that could help me find out the problem. it seems like its alot of work changing it too on the Jeep :confuse:
  • Your description is a bit vague, but I can tell you that your '96 does not have a timing belt. It has a chain and sprockets and I-6 engines are not known for having timing set failure. If you are certain of having backfiring, then it may be as simple as a distributor cap crack or shorted ignition wires. Also a burnt intake valve can produce a backfire (usually a popping sound). I'd put in fresh plugs, wires, cap and rotor before assuming anything more serious.
  • hi all,

    i recently purchased a used right hand drive cherokee.

    it has a few problems but that's ok.
    i do have one that i can't figure out....i don't have heat...i've changed the thermostat, checked the fuses, heater core is not leaking (i assume that means its working), dealer put in a new water pump and radiator, blower is working great but no heat....anything else i should be checking??

    thanks for any advice
  • My 99 Cherokee limited required a replacement of the evaporator coil at only about 45K miles. This is not an uncommon issue. Mine was fixed under warranty.
  • dcp2dcp2 Posts: 1
    I wanted to switch out my black exterior door handles out with colored handles. How would I go about taking out the old ones and installing the new ones? Do I remove the interior door panel? How would I go about doing this?
  • red75red75 Posts: 3
    I have a 2001 Jeep Cherokee Classic. I had the same problem about a year ago at 100,000 miles. It was a bad heater core. It never leaked, so I too thought it was okay. But it turns out it was clogged pretty bad. The mechanic tried blowing it out, but never could get it cleaned out good enough to produce heat so I had it replaced. It cost about $300, but I've had great heat every since.
  • red75red75 Posts: 3
    I posted this message about 1 1/2 years ago and we never came to a conclusion. However, I'm still driving the Cherokee with low oil pressure and it still drives fine. Thought I would try posting again and see if there's any new advice out there. It's a 2001 Cherokee Classic with 125,000 miles. The low oil pressure started about 30,000 miles ago. When the engine is hot, pressure drops to about 1 or 2 and the check gauges light comes on. I had the oil pan taken off, cleaned the screen, checked the sending unit, checked the oil pump, all okay. Checked with a mechanical gauge, and it is reading correct. I had an oil purge done twice to try to clean everything out. Had the bearings checked, they looked fine. It did have a very slight head gasket leak, so they pulled the head and replaced it. While they were in the there, they did notice some sludge build-up, we tried to clean everything out as good as possible. However the only conclusion we've ever come to is that there's still some sludge buildup causing the low pressure. The engine runs fine, no knocking or tapping at all. I'm starting to get a little nervous continuing to drive the Jeep with the low pressure, however I've done put about as much money into as I can justify. I would love to hear any suggestions. Thanks
  • If the tires are bad get new ones and have them balanced. Bad tires can make a truck shake bad enough to loosen the fillings in your teeth ;)
  • Other possibility could be your main crankshaft bearings are going bad (tolerances are opening up) and need to be replaced. This would give you low oil pressure. If you or a friend is mechanically inclined, drop the oil pan and pull one of the bearing caps to check the condition...chances are they are toast.
  • Hello,

    Its a funny thing, I just recently bought a used 84K miles, 2001 Jeep Cherokee Classic, 6cyl, 4WD and its doing the same thing yours is doing, ok.

    Do you have any replies or clues to what is wrong with your 2001 Jeep Cherokee at this time? I would really like to know, as well.

    Sincerely,

    jimbo
  • mikkinmikkin Posts: 4
    Hi...
    thanks dancerman and armyguy01 for ur suggestions... i got the tires balanced too... the vibration level did reduce a bit... then i finally went to the dealer who sold me the car and he removed the rear drive shaft and now the car drives just fine... actually in my prev post i had written abt polishing the front axle...it is actually the rear axle... the dealer who is also a very good mechanic told me that the bearing is gone and thats the reason why the rear drive shaft vibrates.. he is doing it for free... rite now though am driving it without the drive shaft..only i cant use my 4WD... lets hope tht things turn out to be good... i'll keep u guys updated.....

    Thanks...
    Mikkin
  • dancermandancerman Posts: 220
    Glad you are getting the dealer to fix this. I must admit though... driving it with no rear driveshaft... never, ever heard that before. :surprise:
  • mikkinmikkin Posts: 4
    yeah ....myself was surprised to hear that first time....but then he showed it to me... could u tell me what should the ideal oil gauge read...i think it is from 0 to 80... mine is always on 40 and for some reason it keep on fluctuating....like from 40 to 60 and then sometimes 30... is it normal....????
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