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Jeep Cherokee



  • I have posted this same answer before, most likely its the crankshaft position sensor.
    It's on the top left of the bell housing on the back of motor.(about where your foot would be on the gas pedal) (At least that's where it is on a 94 Cherokee.) It takes about four long extensions to get to if you want to do it the easy way. Mine cost 56-58 bucks.Any other questions, post again! Good luck!
  • jean22jean22 Posts: 1

    I own a 1995 Jeep Cherokee, and I used the 4WD during quite a long period this WE due to snow conditions. Unfortunately after approximately 30 miles I heard a huge noise banging at the left front part of the car. Then the steering became very hard and I had to stop and to be towed..

    It is now at an auto-care service and I am told that the transfer case is burnt (there was far too little oil remaining and I never paid attention before). I would like to bring it back to where I live (300 miles from there) in 2WD (which seems OK) but I am told it could be dangerous (loose transfer case...). Otherwise I should pay 1400 $ to replace the transfer case of a car which is worth around 2900 $.

    What should I do? Do you have any advice for me?
  • dancermandancerman Posts: 220
    If the case is that badly damaged, I wouldn't drive it... you may not get to far. I guess you'll have to compare the costs of the two options. $1400 to fix it where it sits versus the cost to tow it home and fix it yourself. You may find that $1400 is not a bad deal after you buy a used transfer case and add the cost to tow it 300 miles.
  • Recently my jeep has had issues with all the lights; panels, headlights, etc.. flickering. This started about the same time I noticed the battery voltage gauge would read at highest voltage. I turn the jeep off, gauge is normal. But the lights continue to flicker from time to time. I found there is some corrosion on the + terminal of the battery and plan to get that cleaned soon. Curious if anyone has had this problem, or can suggest something to check on!
  • bud29bud29 Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Jeep GC with 50K miles. I attempted to start one morning and it was completely dead, (no lights, remote unlock etc.) I jumped it and it seemed to be fine, it restarted immediately, and I did not have any problems for about 10 days.

    This morning I went out and it started fine, but cranked a little slow. As drove down the street I noticed the ABS light flashed a few times but other than that it seemed normal. About 5 hours later I went out to start, and it was dead again. I was able to jump it but if the RPM fell below about 500 it would die. I attempted to drive home and it seemed to do OK as long I kept the RPM up.

    About 3 miles later the car died while driving down the street, and once again it was “dead as the proverbial door nail”

    While waiting for another jump, with the key out of the ignition I could here some switching sounds and occasionally all the gages would jump several times. Once again I was able to jump start but the car would die if the RPM fell below 500. Then miraculously something thing happened and the car ran normally. I drove home (about 1 mile), turned it off and it started and ran fine. About an hour later it started normally and seemed to still be fine.

    Obviously I have an electrical problem does anyone have a more specific idea what my problem is?
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    how old is battery? sounds as if you have a battery that is going bad with all the jump starts hope you did not fry the pcm
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    first clean battery turm and see if that don't fix your prob
  • I have a 2000 jeep cherokee with a dash full of idiot lights. I know other versions of this vehicle come with more informative guages and a tack. Has anyone ever replaced the simple instrument cluster with the more informative one? How difficult is this swap? Are the needed new parts costly and hard to find?
  • I have a 2WD Jeep Classic 4.0 and i have replaced... power steering pump, altenator, A/C compreessor, Idler pulley, and belt but it still makes a constant squeek at idle and while driving. Also my oil pressure gauge is a little high while i'm on the throttle, i have replaced the oil pressure sensor, should i replace the pump? any help???? thanks
  • Removing the radiator, having trouble removing the transmission line cooling line. Anyone have ideas on how you remove it. Its the crimped line that goes on to a line that comes out of the bottom right (if looking from the front) of the radiator.
  • You are probably talking about the "quick disconnect" (poorly named) connection. I believe there is a special tool for this however I've read (on other forums) that all you need to do is push the tube in then pull out. Corrosion and location apparently make remove difficult. If there are small plastic tabs at the connection, you have to squeeze them while pushing and pulling... gently though. I've never done this personally so I may be missing some of the key points.
  • Tighten the belt (a little at a time) until no more squeeking.

    Oil pressure? How High? I'm not sure I would trust the factory guage.
  • HELP! I have a '99 Cherokee Classic that SOMETIMES continues to run the fan after the car is shut off (and the key is out!) I was originally told that this is normal - the fan is cooling the engine. Yet, it does not happen all the time and last night the fan ran for over 2 hours! Any ideas? Note, I am not car smart, so I will have to take it to a mechanic - if you have any thoughts, could you also guesstimate what it will cost? It is a sad thing for a blond to have a broken car!!!!!! THANKS!
  • Evening everyone! I own a 1997 Jeep Cherokee Sport with 170K miles on it and within the past 5K miles the cruise control indicator on the dash no longer illuminates when the cruise control is activated. It does not effect its operation, but I do not have a visual cue as to if the cruise is on / off. Can anyone shed some light on how to fix this problem or if you've encountered it as well?
  • I have a '99 and the fan has never run after you shut the engine off. Assuming that the original wiring has not been altered, it seems that the relay is sticking and that's an inexpensive repair. However if the PCM (powertrain control module) is causing it to stay on then that will cost more. Some cars do run the fan after shutoff but Cherokee isn't one of them.
  • Looking for a diagram for electrical wiring under the dash and leads to and from the fuse box for 1990 Cherokee Ltd.
    Haynes manual not specific enough on all connections and wire colors. Where can I find this??

    I purchased this Jeep in October and have been working on it since, the conditions of this Jeep was really pathetic. The entire wiring and hose systems all tangled mess when a upgrade stereo and amp was put in. Also drove it over heated and with the oil cap off, oil every where, The previous owner had put in a new radiator and dual fan unit. However the second fan I have never seen it work. yet., and it still over heats. It had a hard start problem but after cleaning off the engine, every relay, every connector, starting was a lot better. Then day 3 if limited driving it starter overheating and the parking lights stopped working. Replacing thermostat, rotor, dist. cap a few air hoses , temp sensor,head light switch, and the worst WORN OUT BATTERY CABLES you have ever seen in your life. These things were a fire hazard, and a root of many problems like junked up connectors, and wire and fuse shorts. Now down to the final wire shorting in the fuse box., blowing out the parking lights I need a better diagram for the dash wiring. Then, well hope for the best. Help Please !!
  • BE VERY CAREFUL!!!! I though nobody knew my pain!! I have removed them you need a special tool to remove or you can crack it or break it!! Then you are in a huge mess! They do not sell this clip without having to buy a new transmission line! I replaced a radiator and let me tell you its rough! You maybe lucky and already have a metal clip replacement. The new clips that come with a new line are metal. I searched the dealer, Napa, many stores and the clip cannot be sold without the new line. Cost: $35 to $120 If you find one please let me know. The tool you need to purchase is called a 'Actron Color coded Fuel&Oil Line Disconnect tool set' JC Whitney sells them and they also sell another tool and 'All in one'. I will say though if you want it to go smoothly just buy the tool. I think its the red one 5/8. l lost the whole crankcase when it got cold and the clip was damaged. Good luck!
  • I did find out today that there is a replacement for the lower radiator hose return clip that sits in the hose. Napa can get you the part. If in case you break the fastner. You will still need the proper tools to replace it though. A 5/8 red 'Actron Color coded Fuel & Oil line Disconnect tool set', or similar tool. Many times you will have the parts store tell you its a dealer part. Then the dealer tells you that you cant buy the clip separately. So they force you into purchasing the whole lower transmission line. Which can cost $35 to $120. They do sell it separately. The clip that was plastic is now metal. Its screws into the bottom of the radiator and the hose snaps in. Cost- $11 Just try not to break that clip. It often it does or just doesnt quite clip in after removal. Then you wind up like me losing all your trans oil and almost burning up your wonderful Jeep transmission.
  • okay....I love Jeeps I have 2 very nice ones....My 99 cherokee has recently gone off the hook.....heres what I have....
    yesterday it stalled twice while driving down the road...after a few tries it restarted but ran extremely rich....this morning while driving my jeep it once again died...only this time upon restart my full tank of gas went to empty and off and on registering....then as i was going 65 mph in the interstate it died....showing ABS lights power windows or locks....and the stereo died....i got it started and took it home....running rich again but with no power to electrical it sits at a conveince store as it once again stalled with no restart after several tries and 4 hours in between, but the electrical items are working fine .....I'm wondering if the ground wire in driverside door may be bad? maybe the crank position sensor? Auto shutdown relay????? Just so you know i run lucus fuel treatment every 4 tanks. Its acting like the catallic converter is plugged, however that would have no barring on the electrical issues.....
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