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Jeep Cherokee

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  • I have a 01 jeep sport.Vibration after 70mpg...have changed pinion bearing, u- joints,took out the transfer case, balance the drive shaft,.still vibration after 70mpg..I had the lift package taking out and put everything back to stock. Anyone can help me to figure out where this vibration is coming from

    Thank
    Ray
  • Am looking at this cherokee to purchase,I took it for a test run,started and ran fine,then went on dirt to check 4wd,ok until I turned left or right,heard a growling noise from each side in front while turning,did it turning in reverse also. What is this noise and how much to fix.Should I run or is it not too bad to consider it for purchase,I am not a mechanic so would have to have it fixed,thanks for any help.The body is in clean condition inside and out,butt ugly blue/green color,has 4.0l auto,air cruise.what are your thoughts? thanks, Magoo.
  • Are your tires designed for off roading? If so that might explain your problem
  • paulh2paulh2 Posts: 3
    Thought i would give the 4x4 transmission a test today, pulls the lever back into low gear and suddenly, im stuck,
    so RAC to the rescue, chap said some linkage was missing?
    and the gears has been locked into neutral.
    he has enabled it to drive in 2 wheel. but said not to touch the selector else it will get stuck in neutral again, the bar moves back and forth but will not select the drive i require.
    Is there a kit or something that would remedy this
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    sounds as if you have prob inside transfer case
  • paulh2paulh2 Posts: 3
    yea it seems that way thanks, would this have knocked out my reversing lights. although i have to change a front headlamp unit. I have now lost reverse light.?
    I have no manual at moment so a bit stuck.

    Jeep cherokee 1997 Limited Facelift 2.5td ( VM engine???)
    any help and suggestions on which technical manuals to get would be well recieved.
    New to Jeeps so a bit of a novice all round. and a bit out of my depth
  • Sounds like the front hubs are bad. They are all one piece hubs.If that is all that's wrong with it, sounds like a good deal.Hubs cost $80.00 a piece, and simple to replace.Pull the caliper off, pull the rotor off, there is the hub.Pull the cotter pin, remove big nut in the center. Three bolts bolt the hub to the spindle.Good luck!
    David
  • magoo9magoo9 Posts: 2
    David,thanks for the info,would bad hubs only make noise when turning in 4wd and not in 2wd? thanks Dale.
  • my jeep will stall out going down the road usually about 60mph. sometimes it will start back up on its own and sometimes i will have to pull over and start it. ive put a new fuel filter, pump relay, and even tore down my fuel rail and injectors and soaked them in sea foam. i cant figure it out and it is driving me crazy can anyone help?
  • Mine didn't make noise except in 2wd. ( That I remember) . Just thought of something, do you have u-joints or cv axles? If either are dry, they will make noise while turning. I replaced my U-joints when I replaced my hubs. ( it was only one more step to remove the axles, so I did it and replaced the u- joints while there).Let me know!
    David
  • If I only had a dollar for the times I've posted this reply. :)
    Classic symptom of a bad crankshaft position sensor. Get an after-market book on the jeep and look up the test for the crankshaft sensor. ( it's a simple ohm test that can be done from under the hood.) When mine went bad it never threw a code! (check engine light). The crankshaft position sensor is located on the bell housing of the transmission on the top left side (on the back of the motor where the motor and transmission meet) For example- where your gas pedal rod goes up, if you had x-ray vision to look through the floor board, that's where it would be. Its the first least expensive thing you can do. (mine cost $58.00) I also used about a 4 feet worth of extensions to remove the two bolts because there was more "swing room" for the ratchet by the catalytic converter. One almost has to be a contortionist get the bolts started back. you must start them by hand! If you don't and they cross-thread, you will never have room to re-tap the threads!
    Good luck!
    David
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 39,971
    Maybe you should write up a CarSpace Guide.

    Including some pics in contortionist mode would be an added bonus lol. I had to crawl under my dash last month to pull the alarm fuses when the siren wouldn't go off. I'm getting too old for that stuff!

    Moderator
    Need help navigating? stever@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • jamzusajamzusa Posts: 7
    Don't do that, buy seperate pieces instead of buying name brand full price expensive 'kits'. Leafpacks don't cost much if you go to Rocky Mountain Suspension. You can get full packs for under 300.00 and front springs under 200.00. I'm sure for around 500.00 including shocks you could upgrade it. That's about what I paid. As for using 'other truck springs'... That's highy unadvisable! I would get a second job before I'd do something not very good like that. Springs are made specifically for each model truck, they don't interchange between manufacturers very well and I wouldn't recommend it. Just save the money and buy the real thing. Then again, that's my advice and what I did. My next move is to higher lift, like 8inch which is about as high as you can buy. Skyjacker makes those parts and if you buy them seperate they aren't very much of course you might have to change other suspension parts up front but to mix and match parts off other makes of trucks doesn't show very much smarts for knowing anything at all about suspension. Suspension isn't just 'suspension', it's made for each truck individually by each company that manufacturers the truck. They aren't meant to mix and match and have something exact come out of it at all. But, that's my advice as I like to do things right.
  • rd75rd75 Posts: 10
    I posted before about the mysterious slow coolant loss in my '01 Cherokee Classic, however I never could find the problem. After I put too much money into it (checking the head, replacing head gasket), I decided to just drive on, since it ran fine and the oil always looked fine, and see how long it would last. That was 3 years ago, and a couple months ago I went to start it and it was knocking noticeably. Checked the crankcase, and there was the dreaded "chocolate milkshake" look to the oil. Not real bad, but enough to know not to drive it. So where ever the coolant was slowly going finally opened up.
    So after the money I've put into it already, I don't want to put much more in it. Definitely not what it would cost for a complete rebuild or a new engine. So I'm thinking of selling it, but have no idea what to ask for it. It silver, has 145,000 miles, and is in very good-to-excellent condition inside and out. What would you all think this is worth? Knowing it needs the engine rebuilt or replaced?
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    You should take a look at our TMV new car prices, used car pricing, used car values at Edmunds.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • rd75rd75 Posts: 10
    Yes, I checked that out, but it doesn't give information on non-running vehicles. That's the key here, I'm trying to get an idea what I should ask for it. I don't want to just give it away..
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    Roughly speaking, you would take the TMV and subtract off your best estimate of what it would take to make the necessary repairs.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • after locksmith (slim jim) power windows/mirrors dont work, dome light stays on, locks only with remote- what the heck?
  • dancermandancerman Posts: 220
    It's obvious that he pulled the wire harness loose inside the door. Take it to him and make him pay for the repair.
  • I had a similar problem with my grand cherokee not too long ago noticed that one of my pullys wasnt spinng at all which caused a lot of wear and tear on all the others but once i had that replaced everything was back to normal and my oil pressure went back to normal so if you havent checked yet you should see if all pullys are functioning its a hard thing to see so you might want to chalk them and watch for your chalk to move.
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