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Jeep Cherokee

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Comments

  • checkmecheckme Posts: 73
    I had the same problem with my rotors. I am very happy with my Jeep, but this problem is an annoyance. They fixed them for free the first time, after giving me the runaround. The Jeep is a fantastic car overall, though.
  • vin_weaselvin_weasel Posts: 237
    I think I'm beginning to develop the same problem at 17k km. I'm not happy but I've found a really good dealership and I'll see what they do about it. One thing I just heard from the XJ-List(http://lists.off-road.com/mailman/listinfo/xj-list) is to have the dealer check and make sure that the rear brakes are working properly. The reason being the front brakes are too small as it is and if they end up doing all the work they will warp faster.

    The thing is I heard about this problem happening on Grands and Cherokees and I baby my brakes. No hard stops and if it's even a medium stop I make sure I have enough room to roll a little to move the brake pads around.

    BTW, the main cause for the warped rotors seems to be improper torquing of the wheel lugnuts and hard braking.
  • arlodogarlodog Posts: 8
    I have seen other posts from seabring 95 talking about the after market rotors. why should I have to shell out that money to fix chryslers screw up, I have had lots of cars in my life, some cheap some more expensive, but have never had this brake rotor issue on any of them. The other thing that torqued me off was the service department trying to blame me, and for at first saying that they have not seen this problem, only after talking to the service manager did he admit he has seen lots of these rotors fail on both Cherokees and gc's
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,233
    I agree you shouldn't have to shell it out to fix a problem, but what else are you going to do? I was planning to upgrade my rotors the first time, but the dealer offered me a set for free so I took them up on it. I think there are alot of factors that effect rotors (design, pads, braking habits, panic stops, towing, lug-nut torque) but I know of folks out there that have no problems on the same vehicles. With the exception of my '01 Ram diesel, I've had rotor problems with ALL my trucks and SUV's and that includes Toyota, Ford, and DC. Dodge upgraded the braking systems in the Rams during '01 and it has over 70K on factory pads and rotors so they apparently DO know how to build them, it's just a matter that they don't. So it's not a screw-up, they are designed that way and it's obviously a better business decision for the manufacturers to give you a couple sets of cheap rotors, instead of building them with expensive rotors from the start.

    From what I've seen, rotors are one of the biggest complaint area on ALOT of trucks/suvs so I'm not sure where you're going to get by giving up on a company for something you can fix for $200 and never deal with it again. You could buy something else and have the same problem. Most of my cars have had very few brake/rotor problems, but I've had a couple problem cars there also, and first thing I did was upgrade the brakes and get on with my life.
  • tmac00tmac00 Posts: 8
    There is a recall (# 00V136000) issued by Chrylser in respect to rotors. There are 589,000 vehicles affected (July 95 - Oct 98, in this recall). I had two sets of rotors replaced on a 97 Sport, no cost to me. According to the Edmunds recall check the vehicles are in the "Salt Belt". Check your build dates and ask dealer for recall information.
  • 1846618466 Posts: 46
    I have a Cherokee Sport 4X4 with the Command Trac Transfer case and a AW4 auto transmission. I have been experiencing a thump while stopping and then again starting for about 25K miles, the vehicle has about 67K on it now. In just the last few thousand miles it is also starting to clunk when going from first to second gear (pauses then forcefully goes into gear) and it is getting more noticible as the miles rack up. The trans fluid was changed every 15K and looks good. The universal joints, motor mounts, and transmission mounts checked out OK and that has me questioning the rest of the driveline. Is anyone seen this before? Am I in for a major repair?
  • babsjbabsj Posts: 9
    My 99 Cherokee LTD is doing great! Just had it in for the 30K service. Haven't had any problems except driver window power regulator failure -- replaced under warranty. Just had front brakes done for the first time. It's been a great vehicle. Will flush radiator in a few months to prepare for TX summers. New battery and tires later this year as standard care. Any recommendations for tire replacement? My commute to work just doubled...
  • vinneyvinney Posts: 43
    Hi all: anyone has an idea how to fix a dash rattle/creak coming from the top of dash on passenger side. It seems to happen only when it gets warm outside. If you push on top of the dash it really creaks. I have a 2001 sport and the interior materials are really cheap but the drivetrain seems bullet proof! any help will be greatly appreciated.
  • jorge10jorge10 Posts: 4
    I bought an used 98 Cherokee Sport 4x4 Automatic. I had it for a year already and it has given me all the problems that are reported here. It is as if this was my car history. In any case, the latest is that when I put reverse the engine stalls. I took it to the dealer thinking that it was under warranty. After an inspection they say that it is the torque converter, and that is not under warranty because it is over the limit (it has 47000). They want to charge me a ton of money. Does anyone here had the same problem? How much have you paid for the job?
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,233
    No question it's out of warranty. I'm wondering if this truck wasn't severely abused because the AW4 tranny is one of the most reliable automatics ever built. Ever wonder why Toyotas don't have much tranny problems? It's because they use this same tranny.

    You may want to try a reputable tranny shop (not AA$CO) instead of the dealership. You didn't say what "a ton of money" is, but alot of dealers do nothing more than swap in a rebuilt tranny which is usually expensive. A good tranny shop should be able to take it apart and fix it for less. No idea on cost as you're the first I've never seen anyone have trouble with these at anything less than rediculous miles. Sorry, I think you got a bummer.
  • jorge10jorge10 Posts: 4
    They were charging me $1200 for the torque converter and 3200 for a new transmission. And as you said, they wanted just to swap the transmission. Anyhow, I took the car to a different shop. They say that there is an electrical problem, and that needs to be fixed first before they actually diagnose the transmission. Unfortunately these guys don't do electrical stuff so I have to take it somewhere else.
  • caneaucaneau Posts: 14
    Ok, here's the deal with the rotors (I just had mine machined because of the same problem that you guys are experiencing). I have a '97 Jeep Cherokee SE, Up Country equipped, 4.0L, etc., and my disc brakes started to vibrate quite a bit. I went to my mechanic and he told me my rotors are overall just very slightly warped, but they may be MISALIGNED. He realligned by rotors, and my rear drum brakes, and the problem was gone. Overall, machining should not cost you more than $100 (it cost me $80), if it does, go shop around. If you want to replace your rotors, Stillen makes some nice cross drilled ones (just remember to get those ceramic brake pads).
    Also, if you're concerned about your Jeep's braking, change your rear drums to discs for around a grand (but this is really important if you do serious towing or have an extra $1000 and you've exhausted every other Jeep modification, which I think is impossible).
    Another point, Jeep dealers I have found are the biggest jerks and idiots out there, Jeep service technicians aren't much better. Although they are by far the best off road vehicle, Jeeps consistently rate poor in customer satisfaction at dealerships because of this. Chances are
    they will tell you to replace half your braking system (new rotors, pads, etc.) I personally have a private mechanic most of my major stuff and Dodge dealer do my minor stuff (e.g. oil changes, etc.) Jeeps are some of the simplest cars to work on because the design is for the most part almost 20 years old. It's simple, but it's proof that if it's done once and right it works. Most Jeep repairs therefore can be performed by any good mechanic, regardless of the brand of car he or she specializes in. My overall advice, find one, and don't loose their business card. Jeeps are great cars and will outlive milage any other car out there in terms of durability, and milage. The engine is bulletproof, the Unibody is great, just occasionally minor components sometimes fail. Just remember to do your maintnence, don't abuse your car too much, and if you can deal with a bit of road noise and a somewhat harsh ride, a Cherokee will by far outlast you any other SUV on the market.
  • vin_weaselvin_weasel Posts: 237
    Took the Jeep to the dealership today and they replaced the rotors no question asked under warranty. I'm glad I found such a good dealership.
  • jorge10jorge10 Posts: 4
    The transmission problem was not a transmission problem, but an electrical problem in the ignition system. Total cost to fix: 300 USD.
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,233
    see what I mean about dealers? Most know absolutely nothing about a tranny besides how to pull it out and put in a new one. I think one more problem with your XJ and I'd call it a lemon (or highly abused in a prior life) and trade that baby.
  • 1994 Cherokee Sport 4X4.
    Daughter dearest had the vehicle die on her on two different occasions. First while rounding corner, second on access road accelerating from stoplight. I drove vehicle for an afternoon, with no such problems. Left it running in driveway to get something from house. It died right after I got out. Restarted immediately with no problem.
    Took it to the dealer this morning ( I didn't think my usual guy would have the electronic equipment to read any error codes ). They called back in about an hour to tell me that the crank sensor(?) need to be changed ( $225) and that the throttle body was carboned up and needed to be cleaned ($160).
    Anybody out there experienced this or something similar? Also, are these repair prices in line?

    Any help/imput would be sincerely appreciated.
  • tuttietuttie Posts: 4
    I have a 96' jeep grand cherokee limited edition. i am unable to reset the keyless entry remote. i bought batteries and i even went to the dealer. they sold me another remote and tried to charge me to set it without even trying to reset the one i already had. i believe that my old one works, it just didn't have any batteries. does anybody know how to reset them. i don't have an owner's manuel and i would really like to get my money back for the remote they sold me.
  • vin_weaselvin_weasel Posts: 237
    I'd look around at some sites I've listed a few posts back namely Cherokee America and Jeeps Unlimited. You should find enough information there to do the repairs yourself. There are always cheaper alternative than the dealership. I only go there when things are free (ie under warranty).
  • I have a 98 cherokee sport. Whenever I put either the heater or AC on a few seconds later the engine fan clicks on. It seems to switch on and off every few seconds. It is also much louder than any other truck/SUV I have driven. When I asked the dealer about it he said that this normal on all Jeeps (which I translated to "can't really be bothered to look"). Has anyone else noticed this with their jeep?
  • vin_weaselvin_weasel Posts: 237
    Yep, I've noticed it and yep, its normal. It only kicks in when you have the AC on which also includes the bi-level defrost/foot and defrost settings.
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,109
    1.1 MILLION Jeeps are being recalled - for a possible fire hazard. Read about it here.

    tidester
    Host
    SUVs
  • kbeckmankbeckman Posts: 1
    Your thump is being caused by the slip joint just after the transfer case.


    After 1996, Jeep moved this slip joint from inside the transfer case (where it was lubed by the transfer case oil) to outside it, and used a heavy grease on the splines. This grease gets hard, and will not slip properly when you have force on it. I HAD the exact same problem with my '96 XJ, but resolved it. You will need to pull the driveshaft (4-8MM bolts on rear U joint).


    There is a boot held in place with 2 metal straps. These straps clip together and are somewhat re-useable if you spread the notch out, and can get it back on. I used a large wire cutters to crimp mine back on. You can also replace these with heavy nylon straps.


    Clean the splines very well (I used carb cleaner and a brush) and replace the grease with Loctite Silver Antiseize (don't substitute this). You can find where to get it at:


    http://www.loctite.com/catalog/product.html?ProductLine=ASSILVER


    Apply it liberally, and get it down inside the grooves of the splines. Re-assemble and test. You'll be amazed.


    One caution, mark the U joint and replace the straps and bolts exactly as they presently are. I use those yellow metal markers like the junkyards use (available from NAPA). Also mark exactly which tooth the spline is set into, and put it back where it was.

  • tsdumastsdumas Posts: 2
    oil is being sucked in the air filter and leaking all over..comes out of pvc line- any ideas why?- email me at tym2ski@hotmail.com please.
  • cp310cp310 Posts: 1
    I am looking at buying a Jeep cherokee (sport maybe?) 2000-2001. I absolutely love the Jeep, but have heard they have a lot of mechanical problems, not reliable etc. I am just out of college and need to buy a reliable car that will last. Many have recommended Honda or Toyota. Would welcome any good advice on this as I want to make a wise decision. Thanks!
  • dancermandancerman Posts: 220
    I have a 1999 Sport with same noisy fan.... they all do it. It's very annoying and I would imagine the constant on/off/on/off/on...... will eventually wear something out. I have about 500 miles left on my 36,000 warranty and am seriously considering ditching it. The fan is not my only complaint.
  • jorge10jorge10 Posts: 4
    If you want a reliable car buy a Honda or Toyota as you were recommended, or Nissan. I would stay away from Jeep if I were you. Unfortunately I learned this the hard way... I bought a 98 jeep cherokee and has given me nothing but trouble. From little things such as a non functional keyless entry, to electrical problems that keep the transmission from working properly. The latest thing on my list is a leaking freeze plug. If you don't think this is bad, consider that my jeep only has 47000 miles. I didn't have any trouble with my old nissan until it had 90+ k miles. I sure miss it now.
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,233
    I wouldn't hesitate to buy a used '00-'01 Cherokee and I've owned plenty of Toyotas. My '01 has been fairly trouble free for 40K miles now which is more than I can say of my last Camry. The problems you may have are usually nothing more than minor things. The engine/tranny in the Cherokee are rock solid and many have 200K-300K on them. Do a search for Jeepsunlimited forums and check out the Cherokee forum (can't post the link I'll get deleted!)

    I think Jorge10 bought a lemon or flood vehicle. Carfax isn't near as smart as some think, and I've seen "clean titled" vehicles after they've been totally submerged. Had a big flood here in '98 and shady characters were coming from all over the country buying truckloads of cars. Mainly older ones, but you know even the new ones aren't going to the crusher. They'll show up somewhere and probably with a clean title.
  • jrosasmcjrosasmc Posts: 1,704
    Why in the world does the 4.0-liter always run hot? I can't stand it!
  • morris22morris22 Posts: 1
    Can anyone who ownes a JEEP Cherokee please tell me what kind of gas mileage you get. I drive about 100 miles round trip to work-- wondering what kind of mileage i would get. Thank-you-- i appreciate the info.
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,233
    I normally run between 70-75mph and average 18mpg which includes some city driving on each end. I've gotten 22mpg on long trips with nothing buy highway. I've yet to find a 4X4 SUV that does much better so if you want a powerful 4X4 that's about the going rate. I had a 4cyl Tacoma 4X4 and it averaged 23mpg, but obviously wasn't a power-house. Plenty of power for highway though. If you find something with a powerful motor and 4X4 that does much better let us all know, LOL!
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