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Jeep Cherokee

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Comments

  • I want to tow a Pop up camper and Im wondering if this car is suited to that. And do I need a transmission cooling system as indicated in the manual.?
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,231
    part-time is only to be used on slippery surfaces, full-time can be used on any surface. When shifting, sometimes you need to give it gas or release the accelerator before it will shift. Sometimes it takes awhile when going from full-time to part-time or vice versa.

    Part-time 4X4 locks the front and rear axles and sends power to each end 50/50.

    Full-time employs a center differential and sends power to the front when slippage occurs in the rear. Happens very quickly, but the part-time can be better for certain situations. If your not off-roading or in very severe situations, full-time is more than capable. Driving in either full-time reduces your fuel mileage though, so it's up to you if you just want to leave it in full-time or switch on when needed.
  • Thanks for this info, very helpful. What situations do think it would be valuable to use part time?
  • boggseboggse Posts: 1,048
    The Cherokee should be able to handle towing a pop-up camper without much problem. You may want to consider the transmission cooler if you are going to do it a lot or over large distances. Aftermarket ones are available if the Mopar solution has been discontinued. The Mopar package included a heavy duty radiator and auxiliary fan as well.
  • boggseboggse Posts: 1,048
    Make sure you are in a forward gear and that the wheels are pointed straight ahead and you have plenty of room to work. Accelerate to about 10mph, then back off the gas. Attempt to put shifter back into 2wd. If it doesn't work, give it a little more gas, then let off again and attempt to shift back to 2wd. Repeat if necessary. If it still won't go, then you will need to have a mechanic look at it. It does take some effort to move the shifter, and, if the 4WD hasn't been used much, it may grind a little when you push on it. Good luck!
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,231
    Very deep snow, very deep mud, etc. Driving in normal snowy conditions (plowed roads, some clear roads, etc) full-time is great. You can damage the drivetrain by driving on non-slippery surfaces in part-time.
  • I am interested in buying Bridgestone Duelers and wanted to know if using 235 75 R15 is a bad Idea, they are larger than the reccomended size. Whats the advantage vs. disadvantage?
  • Thanks for the advise on my 4 wheel drive. I tried what you reccomended and it worked great.

    Thanks alot.
  • jimsxnjimsxn Posts: 108
    All I want to do is to have the benefit of upright seating, 4-W drive in snow, space for carrying hockey kit, medium towing power (a small boat). I would also "like" to have sharp maneouverability and 5 speed control. I don't want to spend too much time and money in repairs.

    You veterans...advise me please.....
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,231
    Certain 235 tires (slight variances amoung the manufacturers) will rub under extreme off-roading conditions. Doubtful you'll have any problems with that otherwise. It will throw your speedometer off by about 5% and will slightly zap your power because the gearing is designed for the 225's. Probably only really notice on hills in overdrive. I was going to to to a larger size but it's very hilly here and I'm a power freak. The 235's look a bit better, but the performance difference is neglible IMHO. A skinny tire is better in snow/rain, a wider tire better in mud/sand/ice. But again it's like a 1/2" difference going to 235's. BTW, you can't go any larger than 235's without a lift or they will rub.
  • boggseboggse Posts: 1,048
    You can probably find a Cherokee that meets your needs. I do have a couple of caveats to mention.

    While I find the Cherokee to be above average for SUVs of its time in maneuverability, the steering is slow compared to modern car-based SUVs, so I am not sure "sharp" would be the correct adjective.

    If you want to avoid repair costs with a Cherokee, find one with as few electrical options as possible. Mechanically, they will last forever, but they (and other AMC/Chrysler vehicles of the era) tend to have an above average number of gadget problems.

    If you plan to tow, look for a Cherokee with the towing package (heavy duty radiator, transmission oil cooler, etc), although it wasn't available every year on the 5-speeds. If you can't find one, you can add most of the components individually. In the later model years, the 5-speed only had a 2000 pound towing capacity. This was due to the strength (or weakness) of the transmission.
  • boggseboggse Posts: 1,048
    I received the roof mounted tire carrier last night. According to the documentation that came with it, it adds 15" of height to the vehicle. I will confirm that when I get it installed.
  • sandyboysandyboy Posts: 114
    Boggse, I have to differ with what you said, however this is based soley on my personal experience. I have had Cadillacs & Lincolns exclusively since 1986, they have been gadget laden, and I have problems along the way. Not a massive amount, but certainly my share, or a little more. This Jeep of mine, I attempted to "outfit" as though it were a Caddy or Lincoln. It has in excess of 27 options, actually every option that was available in 2001 (final year), plus several dealer installed MOPAR aftermarket options. I have 10,000 miles on it, and it has been driven by 3 different family member-drivers. The only problem we've had with it has been a #3 spark plug that went bad (about as basic a part as you'll find) and at 1 week old, the battery died & proved to be a defective battery. That is the total extent of "trouble" ~ Dual Power Heated Seats, Power Windows & Mirrors & Door Locks, Cruise Control, ABS, Trip Computer, Stereo/Cassette/CD/Infiniti Audio, you name it, it has it + Tranny Fluid Cooler and 27-Piece Black Burl Interior Wood Trim Kit. ZERO problems! Better than 2 Caddies & 3 Lincolns ! The vehicle simply amazes me, daily. I am only sorry that they did not continue it one more year, so I could buy one for myself! The 2001 is shared between my wife & our son.
    What all have you had go bad?
  • boggseboggse Posts: 1,048
    I personally have had a pretty good experience with my 98 Cherokee Classic. I special ordered mine, and I got every option but the engine block heater and the Up-Country suspension. From 97 on, the electricals are better, but still not top quality. My comments were merely based on my discussions with other Jeep owners. My Jeep has had the following replaced in 53,000 miles:

    Power Steering Pump (10,000 miles)
    Brake Rotors (twice - kept warping badly)
    Stereo Head unit (would no longer play CDs)
    Turn Signal switch
    Window regulator (twice)
    Master window controls
    Fog Light switch (I eventually removed the fog lights and got IPF H4 headlight upgrades. The fog lights are prone to getting cracked and broken which allows water to short them out)

    Not horrible, but not great either. I love my Cherokee, and refuse to give it up before its time, but owning one can be costly. An extended warranty might be a good idea with the number of options you have.

    PS- I wouldn't expect Cadilacs and Lincolns to be any more reliable than a Jeep. Quite the opposite. You definitely made a good choice when you chose the Cherokee.
  • sandyboysandyboy Posts: 114
    Yes, we 3 really love this Jeep! But, you raise a good point. I think I'll look into a MOPAR extended warrantee. Soon! Thanks for the heads-up on that! By the way, I think that they need to improve the quality of their paint. It simply 'feels' thin.
  • jimsxnjimsxn Posts: 108
    ....buy a FWD car....lots of cars have 2000 lb tow rating. How about a Subaru wagon?

    Sorry if I am asking too many questions.....I am really trying to make up my mind here. Thanks for your replies.
  • boggseboggse Posts: 1,048
    IMHO, towing with a FWD car is asking for problems. Their transmissions and bodies generally aren't designed for towing. There are exceptions like the Ford Escape and Toyota Highlander. Subaru might have a towing package, but I am not familiar with their options. The suby at least would have the rear wheels to help out when you are pulling your boat out of the water. What the suby doesn't have is 225 ft-lbs of torque which is all important for towing.

    Please continue to ask those questions. I myself have made some poor decisions when it comes to buying my wife cars because we didn't investigate what would be the correct car for her well enough.
  • boggseboggse Posts: 1,048
    Well, I finally got around to measuring my Cherokee with roof mounter tire carrier. The height of my Cherokee stock is 64" (5'4"). The tire carrier adds 12", so that is 76" (6'4"). That is still short enough to get into almost anywhere, so I feel safe with my decision to get the carrier. The cargo area feels like it is much less cramped. I will be able to tell for sure when I take a trip to NY over Thanksgiving.
  • sandyboysandyboy Posts: 114
    Just out of sheer curosity why did you choose to mount it on the roof, rather than getting the Jeep rear tailgate exterior mount and mounting it on the back (like the Liberty has). If you allready stated this, Sorry, I missed it. The roof mount, did it require drilling holes into the roof, as does the rear mount? Thanks.
  • boggseboggse Posts: 1,048
    I chose the roof for a few reasons:

    1. Convenience. I will access the tailgate area much more often than the spare tire. Having to swing the tire mounted on any of the various arm-style carriers every time I need to access the tailgate would have been a royal pain for me. It will be more of a hassle to get it off of the roof if I ever need it, but hopefully that will be rare.

    2. Ease of installation: The roof mounted carrier required no modification to the vehicle. It mounts directly on the factory roof rack. All it required was tightening 4 screws and 3 lug nuts.

    3. Price: The rear mounted carriers were all considerably more expensive than the roof carrier.

    4. Safety: While putting the tire on the roof will raise the center of gravity, it improves visibility by getting the tire out of my line of sight. Mounting it on the rear would simply move it to a different place in my line of sight. Also, if I back into something at low speeds, I am less likely to damage the tailgate if the tire isn't mounted on the rear. As the IIHS low speed tests show with the Liberty and Wrangler, the tire will get pushed into the tailgate upon impact if it is rear mounted.

    BTW: Mounting the tire directly on the tailgate would require an upgrade to the struts which support the tailgate. Also, Jeep no longer makes the roof tire carriers, so if anyone wants one, there is a dealer in VA who has some in stock. There number is 276-629-3366.
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