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Jeep Cherokee

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  • I'm having the same problem and am just as frustrated. I own a 89 cherokee with 4.0 and have done everything you've done (accept, this time, replaced the ignition control unit). All the same symptoms you have, with this added: I'll go into McDonald's for five minutes to pick up a big Mac--turn off the ignition--when I come out-=it turns over and over and won't start. Wait about 3-4 hours (until it cools?) and it starts up. This, like you, happens very intermittently (once every week-to-two weeks). In the past it has done something like this, and I had the ignition control unit replaced and it worked, the last time it did that it was the camshaft postion sensor (spent a lot of money to find that out). So THIS time, I'm not too keen on guessing that it must be the ignition control unit (150.00, 75 used), even though I just replaced (again!!) the distributor pickup. Would appreciate any feedback you can give me on your situtation. PS I've been through it with the fuel pumps too--every time I had it towed somewhere when it wouldn't start in the past--it would start when it got to the garage. Learned that if the fuel pumps at fault, banging on the gas tank (where the pump is) will unjam it and the truck starts up. But this time, i know I have fuel pressure--you can check for sure by depressing the fuel valve on the fuel rail).
  • jeepster5jeepster5 Posts: 2
    Thank you...I bought a repair manual that 1) didn't explain this, and 2) the belt diagrams were for 2 other engines (4 and V6).
  • worleyguyworleyguy Posts: 8
    Hello,

    I just wanted to add something that Sandisezz mentioned in their reply.

    I bought a 3-row ALL metal, and I mean all metal, radiator for my '99 xj from

    www.radiatorbarn.com

    It was $140 delivered.
    It's the radiator Jeep put in the heavy duty (forrestry, police, etc) packages.

    But a thermostat that opens up around 180 - 185 and you'll be amazed.
    This is what I have and idling at a stop light on a 90+ degree day, I'm still running below 200 degrees. Running temp is 210. It worked for me, may work for you.

    One other thing, if you do the work yourself, you'll need what they call a Ford connection tool. It's a tool needed to remove the transmission line from the bottom of the radiator. The same kind of connections that you'll notice are on the AC lines. I got my tool at Harbour Frieght for $3 for 8 different size lines. I think NAPA carrys them too.

    Anyway, good luck.

    WorleyGuy
  • You may also want to get yourself a Rubber BFH (big frigging hammer) I had to whack mine a few times before it would move. Good Luck
  • dhughes47dhughes47 Posts: 1
    Does the 92 Cherokee have a subpar A/C unit? It blows cold air (48 degrees) in AM when it's not so hot, but in the heat of the day, especially here in Phoenix in summer (116 degrees today), it doesn't really cool the vehicle down. My mechanic said it was full of freeon and suggested window tinting. Did that, but still not real cool.
  • I own a 1987 XJ with the 4.0ltr, and I'm just as frustrated as you. A month ago my crank position sensor went out. I replaced it with success, after installing a new coil, ignition module, cap, rotor, plugs, and air filter. About a week or two ago I started having intermittent starting issues. Its different from before, I get spark every 5 or 6 cranks and a strong gas odor from the engine. It sometimes takes a good 30 to 50 minutes of intermittent cranking before firing up. I leaning towards a camshaft or coil pickup sensor but not sure if its the problem. I'm pretty confident that its not the crank sensor again or the connector for it, but can't say for sure. I hope there's someone out there that knows of something that I can try. Thanks!
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    Just how warm is "not so hot"? Here in the Ohio Valley it's usually around 65 to 70 in the mornings. An A/C unit can only take out so much heat at any given moment. My RV dealer told me this about an RV I once bought from them, this was a nearly new camper. The A/C unit will only blow air that is 20* cooler than the air inside the camper. Therefore if it is 90* in the camper when I turn on the A/C, then it will blow 70* air. Of course as the air inside the camper cools, then the unit will blow progressively colder air.

    I once had a Lincoln Town Car. It would blow 33* air while sitting still in the drive on an 80* day. Needless to say it had a GOOD A/C on it. Well, on hot days, those over 100*, it had a hard time cooling down a hot car. My '01 Cherokee doesn't have that good of an A/C, but it's decent. It has a hard time when it's hot too. Unless it's blowing warm to hot air, I'd say your A/C is doing as good as can be expected.
  • chrisf700chrisf700 Posts: 1
    I had a very similar problem with my 88 Cherokee 4.0. The truck would run fine, I would shut it off for a few minutes and then when I would try and restart it, the engine would just keep cranking, never turning over. I would wait a few minutes more and it would start right up. Occasionally, the engine would run at a very low RPM, very rough, and wouldn't be able to go above about 1000 RPM. This intermittent problem drove me crazy for quite a while, until one time when I couldn't get it to start I disconnected the MAP sensor. The truck started right up (running like crap). I ran out to the store and got a MAP sensor, replaced it and never had the problem again.
  • 98classic98classic Posts: 6
    I have a 98 cherokee classic (love it!!) i want to lift it probably 4.5" . kits available run a little high, especially with full leaf packs in the back. I have heard that you can use chevy 1/2 ton springs. just use my first leaf on my stock pack. does anybody know anything about this? thanks :confuse:
  • As my temperature rises the fluid rises in my bottle it doesn't suck it in :mad:
  • worleyguyworleyguy Posts: 8
    Yes you are correct, but eventually the thermostat will open the whole way and you will notice coolant coming from the return line. If you have an air pocket in the block, which I'm thinking you might from you saying the coolant was overflowing back out the cap. That air is going to expand a lot and it will push any coolant out that line back to the reservoir. It's going to keep doing that over and over until that air is out. Trust me, I know this system is a pain in the a$$ that's why they don't use it anymore, but it is the only way that I have ever been able to get it to keep the coolant and not overflow. I think it took me a hour and a half of nursing the coolant little by little. If you have a consistent flow of antifreeze going into the reservoir, there will be no way air can get into the block, but if your Jeep is running and you pour a little bit of coolant in and it sucks it in with some air, you are going to have issues. I went through this for a long time. I replaced hoses, pump, thermostat, reservoir bottle, cap, rodded the radiator then replaced it, and after all that I still had coolant backing up overflowing out the reservoir cap. It's air in the block.

    WorleyGuy
  • worleyguyworleyguy Posts: 8
    I fixed my clanking noise in the front of my 99-Jeep XJ.

    Apparently my sway bar bushings were extrememly worn at the chasis mounts.
    Looking at them while the Jeep was on the ground, they looked fine.
    Looking at the Jeep while it was up on jack stands, they looked fine.
    Until I jacked up one side placing the jack behind the front wheel did I notice that there was a gap between the bar and the bushing, enough to put a number 2 pencil between.

    I bought 2 bushings - $5.50 each.
    Also, 2 sway bar bushing repair kits, which is all the bushings for the connection rods. - $8.50 each.

    Total of $28 and a hours time, no more clunking and better handling.

    I'm going to do this to my '90 XJ as soon as I can.
  • 71charger71charger Posts: 116
    I've been looking around a lot lately to buy another Cherokee. I can't believe what the dealers are asking for nice ones. Around here $3000 will get you maybe a 1990 with around 200,000 miles in not very good shape. I'm thinking of picking up a 92 Laredo with 165,000 miles and in overall nice shape for $2500. Does that sound fair? Edmunds TMV says that's dealer retail for that vehicle. I've had so much trouble finding a good one at a good price I think I might just buy it.
  • dancermandancerman Posts: 220
    Good info. Thanks for posting your fix. :)
  • mes0970mes0970 Posts: 1
    Guys,

    I've got a 99 Cherokee Sport 4wd 4.0l with 139000 miles. Lately, the airbag light comes on while driving and the speedometer and the tach stop working. I've seen a discussion about this problem on another board somewhere? Just wondering if anyone else has experienced this problem?

    Thanks

    MES0970
  • idntnvuidntnvu Posts: 251
    I drove a 1990 Model Jeep (one of our poor high-mileage county cars here in Podunk, VA) that had that problem. Of course there weren't any air bags in '90, so it was the check engine light that would come on and the gauges would stop working. There was also a "check emiss" light on too. That thing drove like a tank though. We have 3 '90 models, and I'd take one of them (if they'd fix the AC on them) over my '99 Explorer any day.
  • jeep1993jeep1993 Posts: 1
    1993 Jeep Grand Cherokee with 5.2 all-time 4x4. My voltmeter started reading high voltage, check engine light came on, and check battery appeared on the console display. Any ideas? I had the alternator check at a local parts store. It passed.
  • jeepgirl3jeepgirl3 Posts: 10
    I took my '94 cherokee into the shop for some new front brakes, the rotors were horribly warped, and it made the whole vehicle shake when braking between 55 and 50 mph. I have had new rotors put on once before. There was a recall on the rotors, and the new ones and labor were free. If you have had replacement rotors put on your Jeep and they seem to be warping a little too fast, you should check to see if they were recalled like mine. You could get new ones for free.
  • budsbuds Posts: 1
    The passanger window and window lock have stopped functioning. I don't find a fuse listed for either in my manual. I contacted Jeep and the service department rep. told me that she could neither tell me yes or no if they are controlled by a fuse. I would have to bring the car in and have a tech answer my question - for the cost of $105.00. Does anyone know what controls the passanger window and the window lock function. Thank you for any help.
  • thorsnakethorsnake Posts: 14
    I have a 99XJ to. When my passenger side window switch started acting up. The window motor stayed on and broke. It was 280.00 to fix. :mad: The old switch started to work fine after the motor/window assembly was fixed. The Jeep mechanic could not find anything wrong with the switch of course. But now the switch does not work again :mad: Just my contol on the drivers side. Good luck. I want to know what you find out.
  • idntnvuidntnvu Posts: 251
    I'm driving a '00 Cherokee Limited at the moment (over night test drive from dealer) and when I picked it up today, the passenger window switch would not work. The window would go down with the switch on the driver's door, but not the passenger's. I took it for a drive around the area of the dealership, and by the time we got back, it had started working again.

    I have to say, that this Limited, with 79k miles on it, drives like it was brand new. Heckuva lot better than my '99 Explorer with just 57k miles on it. However, I think I'll have to pass on it (probably kick myself later) because being a big guy, it just doesn't fit me. Darn shame too, cause it's a looker.
  • 98classic98classic Posts: 6
    My cherokee needs a front driver side door pins... i think. My fornt door sags just a little bit and it causes the molding on my driver side back door to catch . Anybody else had this problem? How do i fix it? the pin or the hinges, and does anybody know what tools to use or anything, I have read almost all of this cherokee forum, i have to say i am impressed with the knowledge i have seen. good job fellow jeepers! :)
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,232
    You won't kick yourself, the XJ just isn't that comfy for big guys. Try a grand cherokee, they're a bit more comfy.
  • The front end of our Jeep met a light pole and lost. When I removed the bent bumper I found another piece of metal behind it and below the the radiator that I think it might be the lower radiator bracket. It is attached to the frame inside of the brakets for the bumper. Has anyone had any experience with removing it?
  • jeep23jeep23 Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Cherokee Sport with 100,000 miles which has been a thrill to own for the past five years, however my electric system is showing signs of failure. I have no mechanical experience, so any help would be appreciated.

    In the past year, three of my four windows have stopped working. One of them is an inch down and won't go back up. I noticed that the windows were failing because they stopped responding quickly, started moaning and finally gave out all together. I spent over $300 on a new window motor and parts for one of the windows, only to learn that this did nothing to solve the problem. I believe it could be a fuse as well, but don't know for sure and don't want to spend more money on a wild goose chase. I've run into other Cherokee owners who have experienced electical issues of the same nature.

    My turn signals and rear window wiper work when they feel like, sometimes for days not at all, sometimes only for a few seconds.

    Finally, my front door speakers don't work anymore.

    Outside of the routine new rooters and brake pads I have not had any other issues to date.

    Are the problems I'm having possibly related???

    Thanks in advance for any input!
  • dancermandancerman Posts: 220
    For about two years, my rear wiper would blow fuses from time to time. The dealer said the motor was bad and wanted me to pay $300. to have it replaced. I decided to try something else. I replaced the 20 amp fuse with a 25 amp and have had no more problems for a year.
  • twarr1twarr1 Posts: 1
    It is the lower radiator support and also a structural component. It is spot welded to the front frame rails in several places and quite a chore to replace. If it isn't too damaged you may consider straigtening it instead of trying to replace it. If it is extensively damaged then chances are the frame rails are no longer straight either - definetely a job for a body shop equipped with a frame machine.
  • astemastem Posts: 6
    I need to make a decision on '01 Cherokee Sport 2DR/4WD(loaded) w/64,000 miles. It's seems to be in excellent condition. My concern is how reliable it will be. I drive 500 miles a week, about 99% being highway. The Cherokee will be great for me in the winter, but will the miles be a killer?? I keep hearing about break issues, but is that a case of basic repair work, or faulty design. I need help fast!!

    Thanks
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    Sounds exactly like the one I bought in February, only mine is a 4 door. I too drive many miles to work each day, about 42 miles each way with all but approximately 5 miles being 4-lane. I'm not too worried about the miles as I have 72k on it now. The 4.0L has a history of going over 200k miles without any problems and I don't know of any real tranny issues either. My wife works with a teacher that has a late 80's model with around 275k on it. And just this week I looked at a mid 90's model that had 253k on it. Both Cherokees are in really good shape for the mileage.

    Brake issues could be a faulty design. However, that can be easily cured with some better aftermarket rotors and pads. But, I don't think you'll have any of these problems as they should be corrected by now.

    BTW: I don't know your local market, but I paid $11,400 for mine. (Used Jeeps tend to sell over "book value" around here.)
  • Hello, I'm new to the board. I have a 94 Cherokee Sport 4.0L. It did not come with factor tow package. I had a Class III hitch installed. I have been towing a 16 ft travel trailer RV with the original radiator. I have also installed an aftermarket trans fluid cooler. While towing, the coolant gauge indicates bet 210F and 240F. I I put on the AC, the gauge jumps to beyond the redline around +255F. I know that operating condition is too high. I have ordered a "rugged all-metal OEM quality" 3-row rad which states that it ideal for towing. Anyone have any suggestions?
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