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Jeep Cherokee

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  • I recently bought a '98 Cherokee, 4.0L, that does not have the factory tow package but has an aftermarket class 3 hitch installed. I would like to determine whether or not the radiator is the heavy-duty version or not. Also, if by chance the auxillary transmission cooler was installed. I realize that this is probably not the case, but would like to check first before having them installed. Is there a way to determine which radiator is installed? Also, where would I look for the auxillary transmission cooler? Thanks! I need to haul an MGB from Oregon to Arizona, things could get pretty hot!
  • astemastem Posts: 6
    I have a '01 Sport I bought used. The Jeep runs very smooth under 50 and over 55. Although when I'm that range it shakes, but not too bad. It gets worse when I apply the brakes. Is this the brakes, rotors? I need help to get an idea before I take it to a dealer. Also, are there any good after-market parts I should get that are better than the oem?

    HELP
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,233
    Sounds a lot like a tire issue, have you done anything with them as far as rotating etc? Could just need balalnced or you could have an out-of-round tire.

    When you hit the brakes, does it shake/vibrate at all higher speeds (not just between 50-55)? The rotors on these aren't that great and aftermarket pads/rotors tends to help with that.
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    Well, it's probably something as simple as my parent's Odyssey. They cycle the key off and on, three times within 5 seconds, then push and hold the tripometer reset button for 20 seconds. I'd call your local dealership. Being an OBD-I system, I wouldn't think it would be very difficult.
  • To check if previous owner installed a heavy duty radiator (3-row) measure the rad's thickness. The top metal plate on a standard 2-row rad is approx 1-1/4" thick; a 3-row rad would be approx 1-7/8" thick. A tranny fluid cooler would typically be mounted on the front (air inlet) of either the air conditioning condenser or radiator. You should see small diameter tubing / flex hose connecting the tranny cooler to the (1) tranny fluid outlet on the radiator and (2) tranny fluid return to the tranny. Good luck.
  • rob336rob336 Posts: 1
    I have a 2000, Jeep Cherokee Sport, 84,000 miles.
    Am having the same problem with the oil pressure gauge. My mechanic says it will be one of two items, either oil pump OR main bearings going out. Will try oil pump first. Hoping that solves the problem. If not on to main bearings. Good luck and pass on any info you might discover.
    Thank - Rob in Tampa, FL
  • dancermandancerman Posts: 220
    Sounds bad. Did you have low oil pressure before the coolant problem? What was the source of the coolant leaking into the cylinders? Head checked OK, maybe engine block is cracked.
  • astemastem Posts: 6
    Thanks Sebring95,

    No I haven't rotated the tires, but just had my oil changed and tires pressure was checked @ 35psi per tire. The front left seems to have a little more wear on the outside, but it's not very noticable.

    The jeep only shakes at 50-55. When I'm going 60-75 it runs very smooth, and when putting on the brakes only shakes in that one range. What do think.
  • eddie12eddie12 Posts: 1
    I also have a vibration problem with my 1993 Jeep Cherokee country 4wd 4.0ltr. 108,000 miles. Jeep runs great but after driving about an hour or so the front end goes to shaking like the suspension is about to fallout. It starts about 35 miles and hour and gets worse with increased speed. The only way to stop it is slow down and maybe stop and then start again. It stayed in the shop for two weeks and there are no suspension problems and appears to be a electrical system break down but the dealer can never get it to do it. When the car is shaking the RPM's are steady and no variance. When at idle it will never do this. the tires and wheels are good and balanced. I NEED HELP Eddie12
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,233
    I'd surely look at the tires first. It's not uncommon for a tire to come unbalanced or even out-of-round over time and cause a vibration in a cetain range. I had a Toytoa pickup that did the same thing, couldn't drive it at 55mph, but 70mph was ok.

    You could try rotating your tires (if you want to do it yourself) and see if the vibration changes. You notice vibrations on the front more than the rear.

    Or you could just have the tires rebalanced and see what happens. Tell the tire shop aobut your problem so they can check for an out-of-round tire.
  • My beloved 1993 JGC was just stolen and trashed. I was drooling over the 2005 and just assumed I would buy one. But after test driving a rental I am having second thoughts. Power plant, drivetrain, suspension all were unbelievably slick. I like the look but miss the visibility of all the tall glass. Interior looks like high design. OK, the back seat is nothing more than a ledge but so what...in my car no one's ever back there. But that front elbow rest??!! It's too hard, placed too far away and too low. My elbow hits right near the hard edge. All I think about while driving is what to do with my arm and how to adjust the driver's seat to get as much as my arm on it as I can. And I'm a big guy! The left arm rest in the door is a brick as well. I'm afraid if I buy it, that's all I'll think about. So now I'm considering buying a late model used JGC just to get a softer armrest. But I want that 2005. What's a guy to do?? And BTW after the cops called me to retrieve my '93 from a back alley, the thief returned to the scene while I was waiting for a tow and we nabbed him. He's now in the cooler!
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    I am so sorry to hear about your loss. I hope that crook spends some time in jail, however he probably won't.

    My wife and I looked at the '05. We didn't drive one, but we couldn't get over the smaller size. It appears to be the same size as my Cherokee. And besides, I'm a huge fan of that inline six 4.0L. The '05 has the 3.7L V-6. I know of several folks around here that have the Dodge Dakota's with the 3.7L in them and most have had a catastrophic engine failure before 100k miles. Lots seem to be oil related. We opted for an '04 GC with only 13k miles.
  • I have a '94 Cherokee Sport with 206,000 miles on it. It currently has the shakes, and has had them before, just like yours (50-55mph). In the past the shakes or death rattle as I like to call it, was due to poor tire balance and uneven tire wear. If the tires aren't too worn you will probably get relief with just a balance and rotate. If they are worn unevenly, you may have to get new tires. If the shaking occurs when braking at those speeds it could be your brake rotors. I had a set of bad rotors that caused the shaking, they were recalled and I got new ones for free. I am trying to push off getting new tires for a couple of months, so I am trying not to drive at speeds between 50&55mph.
  • Hello,

    I had the same issue a few years back. The light kept coming on due to sensitivity with the gas cap. Took the Jeep into the dealer and they had a new flash they ran on the software that made it less sensitive and hasn't caused a problem since knock wood.

    J
  • wojo2wojo2 Posts: 13
    What is the cost and part # for the abs controller. My jeep is identical to yours. My abs light
    has been on for abour 8 months. But, the brakes still work excellently. Any help would be
    appreciated.

    Thanks
  • billersbillers Posts: 2
    I have just discovered the same problem with my 2000 jeep cherokee with 110,000 miles on it. i bought it almost three years ago with 51,000 miles on it. it overheated in april (on my birthday no less) i brought it to a local quicklube as they were right by where it happened. they flushed radiator and sent me on my way, told me to check back with them in a few days. i did and everything was fine. happened again a month later. brought it to my shop. they couldnt see any leaks, couldnt figure it out, did a dye test and sent me on my way. a month later, this happened again. they said it could be head gasket since they couldnt find leaks, but wanted to be sure. did more tests. they determined it was head gasket but they couldnt fix it then, told me to think about it and let them know what i wanted to do. in the meantime they said to keep adding antifreeze and call them when i could find a week to part with the car. so, i did what they said and three weeks ago, called to make an appt. in total the span has been about three+ months. they have been busy and couldnt get the car in right away. in the meantime, it got to the point where i was adding a gallon of coolant a week and in the last week, after engine has been warmed up, when i am idling, the oil gauge drops to zero and the check gauges light comes on. it has also been "knocking". so, when i brought it in for head gasket, i told them. they checked it, told me that water has leaked into oil pan and my engine is shot. they are now telling me i need a new engine and that the car isnt worth it (told me about $3,500 for reconditioned engine). i have taken great care of this car and bring it in as i should for oil changes etc. i feel like if they had told me i needed the new head gasket and i should get it done immediately, i wouldnt have the engine problem now. I just brought it to a new mecahnic for a second opinion. i really want to save the car, its in great shape and i always thought jeeps run forever. i fact, i still owe $6,000 on it. if all else fails and i have to trade it in and get another car, i would like another jeep, but now i am a little put off by them. my original mechanic said this is a very unsual problem, but i am now hearing that it isnt, from other people i have been talking to.
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    I'm so sorry to hear about your problems. Unfortunately, coolant leaking into the oil is a common problem with a leaking head gasket. If the coolant wasn't running out onto the ground, or if the Jeep wasn't smoking like a freight train, the only place left for it to go was into the oil pan. :sick: I hate it that your mechanic was such a moron for in effect telling you to keep driving it. :mad:

    Maybe your second mechanic will give you a little brighter picture. You can buy used 4.0L engines on Ebay all day long for well under $1,000. Of course, if you don't have the mechanical ability to put a motor in yourself, inclination to try it yourself, and/or the facilities and tools to do it, then you're at a mechanics mercy. I may be wrong, and someone correct me if I am, but any 4.0L out of an '01 Cherokee or an '01 to '04 Grand Cherokee can be used. Those will be a direct replacement, simply bolt it in and plug it in, no modifications at all. Engines out of '96 to '00 Cherokees and Grand Cherokees can also be used, but some electrical modifications will be needed.

    Let us know how it goes.
  • My wifes jeep (2001 jeep cherokee sport 4.0 L) is having a problem with the abs. Just before coming to a stop it feels like the abs kicks in and it starts at 10 mph and stops right before a complete stop. it does this at every stop, were not jammin on the breaks or anything like that but anyway i hope someone can help. Also the check engine light is on and i heard there is a way to retrieve problem codes by turning the igntion on and off without getting a spendy obd II scanner (we dont have autozones in Alaska) Any help is greatly appreciated and thanks in advance.
  • I have a 03 Sport and it does the same thing. I have paid over $400 to have it rotated and balanced and then rotated and balanced again, it does not fix it. I tried different tires and still shakes. Do you have a lift on your jeep. I have a lift but the lift guys tell me it is right. If you hit the brakes at the right time it will snatch your arms off. I have had all sorts of people look at mine and can not find the problem. I love my jeep but I am at my last draw and and looking to trade because it is dangerous to drive.
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    $400 to have your tires rotated and balanced?????!!!!!??? I hope that $400 includes more than just tires. If the Jeep, or any vehicle for that matter, pulls to one side when you hit your brakes, then you've got a caliper problem. Sounds to me like one of the calipers is applying pressure before the other one. Could be the one is partially stuck in its bore and therefore the piston isn't moving as freely as it should. Also, check to make sure one of the brake lines isn't kinked. This would cause a momentary pressure differential between the two front calipers, causing the problem you describe. If your wheels have a small amount of backspacing, meaning they stick out further than the factory wheels, then they will amplify a problem like this. Check for any loose steering components as well. A loose tie rod end can also have symptoms similar to those you describe. Is it hard to steer otherwise? Is the trackbar and draglink parallel to one another? With a lift, it's possible they aren't. I've never experienced the so-called "death wobble." I've been told that "death wobble" can occur if those two aren't parallel. I'm wondering if you could have a form of it.

    What does the dealer think?
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    I'm not aware of any way to do that on an OBD-II vehicle, if I'm wrong them someone correct me. I know you could do that on the older OBD-I vehicles. The code scanners at AutoZone won't detect ABS problems anyway. I've got one of the Actron scanners that AutoZone sells. I think it's the same one they use. Mine will not pick up ABS codes. Sometimes I wish that I had laid out the cash for one of the more complete scanners. My scanner has saved me well over the $150 price tag in repairs. But, like I said above, I wish I had purchased one of the more complete scanners. Seems like I've seen those priced in the $400 range.

    Are you a big fan of ABS??? Living in Alaska you could be. Living in the midwest, I'm not a big fan. Of course I don't drive on snow/ice very often. If it were mine, I'd be tempted to disconnect the ABS module and wait for the light to burn out. Or you could pull the instrument cluster and pull the bulb out.
  • I recently purchased an '01 Cherokee Sport, automatic, 4x4. It didn't have factory cruise. The dealer, in good faith, indicated I could install either an aftermarket cruise or for mo' money a factory cruise. Well, some phone calls indicate MOPAR doesn't make the kits anymore, and also raised questions about compatibility issues re: down loading computer codes, etc.

    So: Does anybody have any experience with this? What parts do I need? I've heard a wiring harness, a servo/control unit, and a steering wheel with the buttons installed.

    If this won't work, what is the best aftermarket cruise that looks as close to factory as possible?

    Thanks
    Scott :confuse:
  • Dave (if that is your name)
    My dealers here in Albuquerque are telling me I can't get OEM parts to install a cruise controal in my recently purchased '01 Sport.

    How did you get the parts????

    Thanks
    Scott MacKie
  • jobbagyjobbagy Posts: 1
    my 1989 jeep is running about 15 degrees too hot, i"ve changed the thermostat,
    water pump seems to be ok, radiator seems to be ok. could the a/c condensor
    be the problem if it is old and plugged up on the surface with bugs,debris....

    4.0 V-6 4x4
  • Bugs plugging up the condensor could be the problem.
  • Can't open the lift gate with the remote. I read somewhere you can use the key. Where????? If not, what could the problem be and how much might it cost to get it repaired. I can't fix the brake lights without opening the darn lift gate.
  • Wow, that was fast reply. OK, I'm a girl, what is the condensor, where is it, can I just fix this myself???
  • i have a 87 with the 4.0 six and it runs great for the first two or three mins then it runs ruff and pops threw the throttle body, and if you give it gas then it dies, and will not run right again until the following morning. I have replaced the o2 censor and the throttle postioning censor, and tried a different ecu and distributor still no change wondering if anyone out there might know what the problem might be?
  • The condensor is what you see when you look through the grill, it looks just like a radiator. As air enters the grill, it first passes through the A/C condensor (that is if the vehicle has A/C) then through the radiator. If the condensor is plugged up with bugs or dirt, then the radiator doesn't get a sufficient amount of air to operate properly.

    You can try using a water hose to flush the debris out. Infact, you might not even have to remove the grill - which is very easy to do, four screws across the top and the grill tilts out. Standard household water pressure shouldn't be strong enough to damage anything, so go ahead and really flush it out. If that doesn't work, then remove the grill and use a bristled brush to clean it out. Using the brush and lots of water, run the brush up and down along the direction of the fins on the condensor. Be somewhat careful when doing this as the fins are very thin aluminum and are fairly easy to bend. If you do happen to bend some, don't panic, they can be straightened out with some patience. It takes a considerable hit to rupture the condensor. However, every bent fin does help to restrict airflow.

    If you don't have access to outside water at your house, you can use the coin operated car wash. Set it to rinse so all you are spraying is water. You do need to be careful if you go this route as a pressure sprayer will bend the fins and/or damage the condensor. I wouldn't get the tip of the sprayer closer than 1.5' to 2'.

    I hope this helps! :D
  • Before you go any further changing sensors and looking at the electronics, have you verified that there are no mechanical problems? Sounds to me like it may have jumped time. Or possibly one or more valves are sticking in the open position once they get hot.
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