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Jeep Cherokee

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  • i replace my cat and header recently, I have had problem after replacement with start up, when i do, the car screams to redline and i have to turn it off that second. either it is an enormous intake leak or i have a sensor problem... any suggestions????
  • No intake leak would cause it to redline. The fuel/air ratio would be too lean and the engine would die. If a sensor were malfunctioning and feeding way to much fuel into the engine, the fuel/air ratio would be too rich since the throttle plate should be closed and the engine would die. Are you sure the throttle linkage is not stuck in the wide open position? That engine will not redline without both the sensors saying to do so, which is the electronics, and the throttle plate being open, mechanical. Pull the rubber intake boot off the throttle body and see if the throttle plate is closed or open.

    You mention an accident. How serious of an accident? Who did the repair work? If the TPS is shorted and maximum voltage is being sent back to the PCM AND there is a large hole in the intake manifold, say on the bottom where you can't see it, then I can see this situation occuring.
  • rd75rd75 Posts: 10
    I've got a 2001 Jeep Cherokee, 4.0L with 100,000 miles. I hardly get any heat from the heater, I'm pretty sure it's the heater core. The engine heats up fine to proper temp and I recently changed the thermostat just to be sure. I'm thinking about replacing the heater core myself to save some money. Does anyone have any advice on disassembling the dash to get to the core? I know it's a big job, but is it pretty straight forward? Are there any hidden or difficult snaps that will cause me problems? Also, are there any manuals out there that would give a more detailed explanation of how to do it?
  • gvrgvr Posts: 1
    Hi, I am the proud owner of a 99 sport, 4dr. Just paid off. I got hit in the passenger rear wheel at about 50mph. The estimator says the uni-body is twisted. I'm no mechanic, but I love my jeep. Is this gonna do it in? And if I do keep it are there likely to be long term problems down the road? :cry:
  • Are you sure the heater core is stopped up? It could be that the mixing door is stuck in the cold position. This door swings back and forth allowing air to flow over the heater core or the evaporator coil depending on whether you have the controls set to hot or cold. You'll most likely have to get to this door anyway to replace the heater core. I'd suggest checking it out before replacing the core. Also, look for a vacuum line that has come loose. I admit I've never looked at mine, but some of them are vacuum actuated. Other than that, a cable control could be loose or off.
  • rd75rd75 Posts: 10
    Thanks for the idea. Now the heater control dial does work. If I turn the dial you can feel the air going from cold to very slighly warm, so there is is variance in the air coming out. Could the door be swinging only part of the way, not allowing the completely hot position, or is it all or nothing? Another question, if I start tearing into the dash, does everything come off around the airbag or does the airbag get removed to?
  • The mixing door could either be binding as it swings from cold to hot or something could be in its way. The door will move in relation to the temp. control knob. So no, it is not all or nothing.

    I would try to go in through the glove box opening. Once you remove the glove box itself, you should have plenty of room to look around. I wouldn't mess with the airbag unless it was absolutely necessary.
  • I love my 92 Jeep but my husband is beginning to hate it, small problems here and there. Our new problem is the heater. The other day it just decided that it wasn't going to work. If you move the control button back and forth between the different options (ac, vent, heat) you can hear noises, like things opening and closing, but no air flow. The only time you can get any heat (air flow) or the defroster to work is if your moving and then you can feel some heat coming through the vents. Sitting still you feel nothing. It usually doesn't work in the morning but for some strange reason it does in the evening.
    Help it's freezing outside!
    Thanks! :confuse:
  • If you turn the fan up, do you hear it?
  • No. there is no sound out of the fan at all. I think more or less the heat coming through is due to the circulation of the air, not the fan running.
  • I own a 1996 Jeep Cherokee and have an oil drip from the drain plug. Tightening the drain plug does not help. The local parts store tried to sell me a bigger self tapping plug which I am a bit hesitant to install - might ruin the oil pan. Does anybody have any suggestions on how to stop the drip short of replacing the oil pan.

    Thanks
  • Check the fuses for the fan. Those could be under the dash or under the hood. If the fuses are good, then check the wiring at the blower motor, make sure it's still plugged in. If it is plugged in, use a voltage tester to check for power at the plug. If you have power at that connector, then the motor is probably bad. If you don't have power, then it could be the switch - but it could also be anywhere in between.
  • There should be a washer on the drain plug. Those washers wear out and sometimes fall off when the oil is changed. If you have a second vehicle, just take the drain plug with you to a parts store to get a new washer. Once I was in a bind and made one out of a nylon plumbing washer. It stayed on my truck for two years.
  • Someone helped themselves to my radio, and all that is left is a bunch of wires hanging out.
    I got a new stereo, but my chiltons doesn't tell me which wire goes where.
    Anybody know?

    Thanks
  • We checked the fuses and they were ok but we haven't checked the blower motor yet. We'll follow your direction and let you know what happens. A work buddy of my husband's suggested changing out the relay. Is that something that we should consider? I mean this guy didn't know how the relay worked or how to test it but knew that they were cheap and easy to change out. To me it sounds like extra work without solving the problem.
    Thanks! ;)
  • jkrowjkrow Posts: 1
    My 95 cherokee leaks gas from the top of the tank. You can not see exactly where but it leaks from the top, even when the tank is almost empty. The leak only occurs during the fall and winter. In the summer it does not leak gas. I dont know if there is some kind of filter there or what the problem is, but I would like to get it squared away. If anyone actually knows what the problem could be or has heard of this problem before, please let me know what you know. The jeep still runs great, even with 198 grand on her. Please help me. Thank you,
    Jeffrey
  • The relay, I had completely forgotten about it! That is a definite possibility. I'd still check to see if you have power to the fan. If you don't, that relay would be my primary suspect. Relays are easy to change, literally pull the old one out, it just plugs in, and push the new one into the socket.
  • You need to drop the tank. Drive it until it is nearly empty so the tank won't be so heavy. Remove the two bolts at the rear of the tank that holds the straps. Use a floor jack to support the tank. Either before, or as you begin to lower it, you'll have to remove the filler neck hose and may have to remove other hoses/wires that are attached to the frame. Once down, you should be able to see where it has been leaking.
  • I'm sorry for your loss. I hope they didn't do too much damage getting it out. In most cases the damage done is worth more than the player itself.
    You're going to need to purchase a wiring harness. You can pick up and most all car audio shops or even a Van and truck world.
    I'm assuming they just hacked your wires off? If they did that then you obviously have to take care in re-wiring. Be sure there are no nicks further up the wires and keep the factory wires as long as possible, but all the same length to keep them neat and tidy.

    Bare with me for the wire colours. (these are the wires inside the Jeep, not the ones on your new unit, those may different and you need to match them up with the instructions that came with it. You did get instructions right?)

    Front speaker Left: +Green, -Black/White
    Front speaker Right: +Black, -White

    Rear speaker Left: +Green/Black, -Brown/White
    Rear speaker Right: +Brown, -White Black

    In line Ignition: Red
    Light Switch: Blue
    Fuse Block: Pink
    Power Antenna(if applicable): Grey
    Dimmer: Orange and White
    GROUND WIRE: BLACK

    I hope this helps! Good luck and if your new unit has a detachable faceplate, take it off if you're leaving your truck somewhere where it would be easy prey. The unit is worthless without the faceplate. And don't just put it in the glove box.

    Regards, Sean
  • kesmkesm Posts: 1
    Hi everyone,
    Does anybody know about axle ratio's of 2.1l diesel engine cherokee?
    Thanks.
  • Well I know it's been a while, but even after I tore the throttle body off and cleaned all the stuff on there, it still decided to do it's irregular idle thing. The last time it did it though I popped the hood ripped off the hose from the air box leading to the throttle body and manually revved(or at least tried to rev) up the engine. All it did was backfire inside the header as usual until reaching 3000 RPM and I was on the road again. I have been told to change the MAP sensor, but I also heard that there is a possibility of a vapor locked fuel pump. The fuel pump thing does make sense since it only acts up on me when it's hot and here in Illinois it's like -10 and it's running like a dream. Oh well I guess I will just keep fining things until there isn't anything left.
  • I still remember this discussion and I had similar problems. I also polished the throttle body up and cleaned the Idle Air Control Modual. It was pretty much all carbon. I also still noticed not much difference as it pertained to the problem I was having. Later I finally had a mechanic help me diagnose the problem. As I suspected, it was nothing too dramatic. Seems as tho there was a loose and dirty ground connection (all grounds lead to a bracket??) which caused the O2 sensors to fail and inturn the check engine light came on and the false mixture caused the engine to idle irraticly at times and not respond to throttle at all when accelerating. Maybe there is a ground wire loose on yours aswel causing perpendicular problems. I am driving 500km on New years eve and will definately find out during that trip wether or not that was in fact the problem, but so far so good! Good luck and Jeep it up!
  • I am planing to buy a new Jeep, 2005. So, I want to know if there is any repeated problems in the transmission or no.

    thanks for the help.
  • The best advise I can give you is to give your sound system an upgrade and order one from Crutchfield, plus when you get the new unit it should have a wiring diagram. Most of the stereos that I have installed(atleast 10) have a standard color coded wiring harness.
  • Hey i got a 2000 Cherokee with the straight six i was looking at getting one of those Edge Performance Module chips does anyone no about them good or bad for the price, improve or decrease gas mileage,etc....
  • I have a 00 and a 94 cherokee both with auto trans, and the 4.0l straight six my 94 has the original trans with 185000 miles or so on it and it is the stock trans all i did was regular maintenance.....But i honestly dont no about the new libertys, and grand cherokees
  • In order for anyone to answer your question, we really need to know which Jeep and which tranny option you are considering.
  • I am planning on buying a stock 94 jeep cherokee with a 4.0 I6. its getting a 5" lift with i think 34" tires. want it for mudding crawling and driving what do u think? And I dont mind driving stick all the time but is it better to have a manual trans or automatic trans when u are doing hard off roading?
  • There are positives to each tranny. I personally prefer a stick due to the control I have over it. Sticks are much better on downhill grades as I can drop it into first and let the engine do the braking. And, in some really extreme situations, I have seen automatics loose their fluid pickup, leaving the Jeep stuck. However, the flip side is that you sometimes have to work three pedals with two feet, such as on a steep uphill start. Another drawback to a stick are those situations where you need to crawl along at some speed slower than what first gear will allow you. That's where you have to ride the clutch. A third downside is where you need lots of wheel speed, such as mud bogging. It's really hard to shift in the middle of a mud bog without loosing wheel speed. If I were to build the "ultimate to me" offroader, I would probably choose an auto for its advantages, eventhough I prefer manual trannies.

    I know several guys that drive their offroad rigs everyday, and most do it without too many adverse on road handling effects. First off, your gas mileage will stink. A 5" lift on an XJ, that's a Cherokee, is not out of the question. However, you probably will have to install a Slip Yoke Eliminator and a new rear CV driveshaft to accomodate the steeper driveline angles. You may, or may not, have to install a longer front driveshaft. Are you planning on trimming the fenders? I hope so if you want to stuff 34" tires under it. I'm pretty sure you will have to trim the fenders with anything larger than 31" or 32" tires. But you may want to research that on your own.

    Just my $0.02 worth.
  • I was wondering if there is a way to make the dome light come on when the back doors are opened? The only time the dome light comes on is when either of the doors in front are opened, but it doesn't come on when the hatch or the back doors open.
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