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Jeep Cherokee

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Comments

  • captktcaptkt Posts: 1
    I have a 1996 Cherokee 4X4 with a 4.0 engine. I'm getting tow codes, P0171 - fuel sys lean & P0172 - fuel sys rich. The engine starts running very rough just as the light comes on. I'm looking at the MAP sensor or perhaps the IAC motor. Any ideas? Am I looking in the right directions? Thanks for any help.
  • mytools!!!

    Thanks, buddy. I went ahead and removed the kickpanel and sure enough, it was the connector right behind it.

    Course, now I saw the cabin filter is a mess and gotta replace that...since it's 11 oclock though I figure ill figure it out tomorrow.

    As far as the ac goes...when it blows cool only after about five to ten minutes, does it typically need a 'charge' of freon, as everyone always says? How much does that run?

    thanks again Mytools

    Charley
  • The backup lights on my '93 Jeep Cherokee are not working. The bulbs are fine and what I can see of the wiring is OK.
    Can anyone tell me where I can find the backup lamp switch or provide any other suggestions as to what the problem may be?
    Thanks
  • 1988jeep1988jeep Posts: 1
    I just bought a 1988 Jeep Cherokee, straight 6, 4.0 litre, 200,000 miles. I noticed that sometimes when I accelerate or go over a bump or up a hill something feels like it is bouncing, or slipping and middle of the jeep in the back of the jeep, it also sounds like a bowling ball is loose in the car when it happens. Its really hard to explain but I am new to jeep world and am really scared this is the trans. PLEASE HELP :sick:
  • fine sandpaper the rotors and light coating of disc brake desqueak
  • the computer has to be reconfigered they did it to my 2000 and it is a recall, also the intake gasket has to be changed because of issues with the same problem
  • add a cheap set of leaf spring helpers 20.00 at autozone or advanced auto
  • there is a cheap recharge kit includes hose and gauge it only fits the one that you add it to
  • they make a heavy-duty water pump and crc sells a cooling additive
  • I have a 95 4x4 that did the the same thing. Had put 2 new tires on in the back. Put 2 new tires up front and popping disappeared. Dealer told me that the transfercase is where it binds up and will damage it if not taken care of. :shades:
  • I was driving on the freeway and my 93 jeep just stops running. I pull to the side let it sit and it starts back up. This has happened many times. Can anyone tell me the problem.
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    It's something electrical, probably a sensor getting hot and shutting down. I'm sure the check engine light comes on. Have you pulled the codes? If you don't have a code scanner, you can pick one up for your Jeep for $50-$75. There is a way to do it using the ignition switch and the check engine light, but I can't think of it right now.
  • maggielmaggiel Posts: 2
    Hi,

    I have a 1990 Jeep Cherokee, automatic, and also have a front end pop, exactly as you've described yours. I took it to a Green and Ross mechanic who repaired the problem and charged me about 900 dollars (Canadian). As I drove into my garage, it popped again and tried to take it back twice, only to be told that they were too busy or that the owner was not there. I have 60 days and will take it to an independent garage, authorized by CAA, to have the Jeep inspected. It seems something else was repaired, that did not need replacing, so I will ask for my money back. The repair was for rotors and ball bearings, which the mechanic said were causing the problem because they were worn. :confuse:
  • yjbobyjbob Posts: 56
    Your Cherokee probably works like my '95 Wrangler.

    To access the diagnostic codes do the following:

    DO NOT START THE ENGINE
    Turn the ignition key ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON (within 3 seconds) and leave it ON.
    The "check engine" light will start flashing. Write down the series of flashes. The codes are a series of 2 numbers each, separated by an interval. The final code should be "5-5" (meaning "end of codes").
    My YJ just flashed "1-2, 3-3, 5-5".
    12 = battery disconnect (I disconnect the battery when I change the oil because the starter motor wires are close to the oil filter)
    33 = open circuit in the air conditioner clutch control (I don't have an A/C so that circuit had better be open)
    55 = end of codes.
    If you post your codes I will try to remember to come back and look them up for you, or you can take them to Autozone and they should be able to decipher them for you. (I usually abide at the Wrangler forum.)
    Good luck.
  • i have a 99 cherokee sport with the straight 6, any time i turn on my a/c or heat there is a loud screeching noise and it lasts for about 5 to 10 seconds, and i just paid 250 bucks because the mechanic says it was a bad pulley and belt, and as soon as i brought it home it was doing the same thing, can anybody give me an idea on what the problem is. thanks,
    matt
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    The belt has to be VERY tight. When I replaced the belt on mine, I thought it was tight enough. Nope, had to tighten more. After three more times, the squeeling finally stopped. I honestly thought that I would break the belt before I could get it tight enough. That was roughly 20k miles ago.

    Go ahead and tighten it some more and see what happens.
  • gct717gct717 Posts: 2
    hello i ordered a new over flow cap, and that stopped the overheating problem.

    when i got the car i had some starting issues. i would have to put my car in either in park or neutral. i did that for like a year, and just last not it did non start up at all. i got a price for a new starter for only $92.85, labor only $80.00?? what do you think???
  • my 99 cherokee, straight six wont start when i let it sit in the cold for about 5 hours. It starts and shuts right off, i have to keep reving it just so it wont die, it is an automatic, and i have to drive it like a manual just to keep it running, but after i floor it for a couple seconds, it will stay running. any ideas
    matt
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    Starters are not hard to replace, 30 minutes tops. $93 sounds mighty cheap for a Mopar starter, or even a new name brand one. I'm assuming this is a quality rebuilt one? Sounds about right to me.
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    Any other symptoms? What are the gauges telling you? Is the engine flooding out or not getting enough gas? Is the engine being choked out at idle?

    Could be a sensor telling the computer the engine is at normal operating temp. Could be the Idle Air Control Valve isn't working properly when cold. Could be any number of things.
  • dancermandancerman Posts: 220
    I had the same problem. Reply by mullins87 is exactly right. You need to keep tightening the belt until the problem stops.
  • rd75rd75 Posts: 10
    Anybody have any idea where I could buy centercaps to match the one on this wheel? It's for a 2001 Cherokee Classic, 16" rim. Over the past couple years, they have came off (or been stolen) off 3 of the 4 wheels! Thanks

    image
  • all gauges are normal when i am reving it, and none of the lights are on.
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    Is this when you first crank it up and the engine is still cold? What is the temp. gauge reading? If it's reading a normal operating temp. then the sender is bad. It's telling the computer the engine is at full operating temp. when it's not. This is roughly equivalent to running an older engine cold without using the choke.

    I would pull the Idle Air Control valve off and clean it as my next step. It's located on the side of the throttle body facing the engine block. You'll need a special tool to get the bolts out. It's a torx bit with a hole in the middle. You'll see what I'm talking about when you look at the bolts.

    You say none of the lights are on? Does the check engine light come on when you start it? It should, then go off in a second or two. If it never comes one, then the check engine light is burnt out.
  • ryan99ryan99 Posts: 46
    4 years and 2 belts and I am still tightning that damn belt...I always feel like I'm gonna over tighten it...
  • dancermandancerman Posts: 220
    I had mine replaced by the dealer two years ago. I took it back after a week for adjustment. Then had to tighten twice more myself within the next couple months. It's been OK since after 22k miles on the new belt. Maybe there is more stretch in some brands.
  • whodoewhodoe Posts: 1
    I have a 2006 JGC with about 5k miles so far. I have noticed that the driver side door will not stay open when you push it from the sitting position on the inside. It either opens half way and returns or opens full and returns to slam into your leg (or whatever else is in the way).

    The dealer at first said it was a flaw and then said it was a new "safety feature". Does anyone have a similar problem? I have had 3 of these JGC in previous model years and never this problem.

    Anyway, I am looking for a work-around.
  • my buddy borrowd my jeep, blew out a tire then drove it whith a hole(which mysteriously appeared) in the radiator. i have a knock now and pure water in the radiator.. how should i procede? i think ill flush the system, change the thermostat, patch the hole and pray. any other ideas? :sick:
  • I just inherited my wife's '00 Jeep Cherokee and now I wish to address the excessive body roll. I hate it. What's the best/cheapest way to fix it? I am thinking stiffer anti-roll bars but is there a quicker/cheaper fix? If bars are the way to go, what's a good online source? Thanks, I'm new to Jeeps and just wish to fix this one problem.
  • Check the oil as well. It's possible that knock is caused by water in the oil. If that's the case, then he/she probably severly overheated the engine and warped/cracked the head.

    BTW: I'd put a new radiator on it rather than patching the hole. But that's just my $0.02 worth.
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