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Jeep Cherokee

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Comments

  • 143ally143ally Posts: 9
    how much does it cost to get a locker installed professionally? i have a 1999 cherokee sport 4x4. thanx.
  • bblahabblaha Posts: 329
    Depends entirely on what you go with.

    An EZ locker is probably $250 plus $100 installation. An ARB airlocker is more like $650 plus $200 compressor plus $300 install. Per axle.
  • 143ally143ally Posts: 9
    i m new to this stuff, what is the difference between the two? air and EZ? thanx
  • bblahabblaha Posts: 329
    There are many options for putting either an LSD or locker into a Jeep. Those 2 are sort of on the edges in terms of cost. The ARB uses compressed air to lock the differential; push of a button from within the cab engages/disengages it - pretty slick. I don't know too much about the EZ, I think its auto engaging though. Other types can be manually engaging.

    When it comes to lockers/lsds, the first thing you need to find out is what axles you have, because not all manufacturers make their product for all axle types. Most XJs have a DANA30 up front, for which ARB has a locker that will fit. However, with 97+, the rear is generally a ChryCo8.25, which ARB doesn't have one for yet. They keep saying its coming out...

    At any rate, if its something you are interested in pursuing, I would start hanging out at sites like NAXJA and Jeepsunlimited. I'm not an expert at all, but you'll find the guys who are at those places.
  • xjoedogxxjoedogx Posts: 1
    I would like to buy a Cherokee but the top of my head hit against the inside roof and was wondering if anyone knows of an easy fix for this problem...there must be other tall people who have Cherokees...a special bracket or after market seat? Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks.
  • My friends and I were having a discussion.

    I was talking about buying a 4x4. He said something like "Hey, they plow the roads here, what's the problem?" We live in Massachusetts, and then I told him how I like to ski in VT, so he gave me credit there. He has a '94 Ranger pickup, and I said you could always get a locking differential. He said a cheaper way out is to just weld the axles together and not worry about the tire scrubbing, just buy cheap tires every other year. There is some point to this, I guess.
  • csawrucsawru Posts: 29
    Sasquatch_2000,

    Ummm, since about 1995, Jeep said to heck with locking hubs, axle disconnects and any similar devices. What this means is the front and rear axles, differentials and driveshafts are always turning. With proper lubrication it's fine, because with the typical Part Time system on most Cherokees, the front wheels are not *driven* most of the time. They are just turn, and all they do is stir up a bit more fluid in the transfer case. But when you place it in the 4WD modes, then you split torque and send half of it to the front driveshaft and on out to the wheels. The ways this arrangement will cause severe wheel scuffing is leaving it in 4WD mode, (also known as locked) which will create severe driveline loads and stresses and will likely break something expensive in a short time, or the front end is worn or out of alignment...
  • bblahabblaha Posts: 329
    csawru: I think sasquatch was implying take a rwd vehicle, and "weld" the rear axle in such a way that its always "locked".

    I don't think that idea is worthwhile at all. For starters, "cheap tires" shouldn't be a vocabulary word. Its the only part of the vehicle in contact with the road.

    2nd, I think it would wear the tires out MUCH sooner than every 2 years. Probably more like 2 or 3 times a year, depending on where you live and how often you drive.

    3rd, the stress on the welds would be incredible, if you somehow manage to weld them to make it work. I would expect the welds to break fairly quickly, which might destroy the "differential" housing such that rewelding impossible.

    All to save $200 or $300? Not a chance.
  • csawrucsawru Posts: 29
    bblaha, I agree with you about the welds, I missed some prior paragraphs... Anyhow, does anyone know who makes the stock AM/FM cassette radio in new or late model cherokees? Alpine comes to mind, I just don't know. Thanks in advance..
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,231
    I don't know who makes it, but it's low watt unit. I replaced with a Pioneer chryco sized cd player. It's rated at 45 watts and even with the crappy factory speakers it sounds worlds better. I'm sure the speakers will blow soon, as one started rattling the other day. Time for some good speakers now...!
  • tjeep27tjeep27 Posts: 17
    Do you know of any reasonable methods of having a rwd professionally converted to 4x4, or even all wheel drive? Just curious.

    Concerning radios, I know that my '90 cherokee has a Jenson system (this may only be the speakers-not up on sound systems).
  • 143ally143ally Posts: 9
    woah, manual engage limited-slip, that is pretty nice. more than what i expected. all i want is the two wheels spin. thats all i care. but you havent answered my biggest question, how much does something like this cost? the actual locker and the installation, thanx. i really hope they make one, because i m sick of spinning one wheel!
  • bblahabblaha Posts: 329
    tjeep27: Yes, you can convert a 2wd to a 4wd. However, to do so on a '90 would probably cost alot more than selling the 2wd and purchasing a 4wd. To give you an idea of whats involved, you have to add/replace the transmission, transfer case, shifter, front and rear driveshafts, and the front end. If you manage to find a junked Cherokee that is the 4wd equivalent of yours (manual if you have manual, auto if you have auto), the conversion isn't too difficult. I've never done it but I seem to recall its basically a straightforward bolt job.

    But the costs of those parts, even used, plus the labor involved probably exceeds the difference in cost between a used 2wd '90 and a used 4wd '90. Some people like the learning experience that goes with doing that kind of a job though....

    Somewhere there is an article that describes the conversion; if I can find it I'll post it.

    143ally: Sorry, I guess I wasn't being clear. The "cost" depends entirely on what you want to do. You can spend a little, or ALOT. What year is your XJ? If you have the Cryco 8.25 rear axle, everyones favorite is a Powertrax No Slip. Its a locker that works well on the road. It costs between $350 to $400, plus an hour labor (figure $100). If you are handy, you can install it yourself. If you are interested, here is Powertrax's list of distributors. Call one near you and ask for the price.
  • bblahabblaha Posts: 329
    Here is an article (pdf) describing the conversion. Really though, the best thing is to sell the 2wd and buy a 4wd.


    http://www.gr8ride.com/articles/000534ah/000534ahb.pdf

  • 143ally143ally Posts: 9
    hey, thanx for your help, i really appreciate it!
  • robtwrobtw Posts: 4
    Any comments on rotor problems on the 2001 as there are on the 99's?

    I'm not about to buy another one unless the brake problems have been fixed. Five brake jobs on the front, three on the rear in 35K. Too expensive to even consider keeping this car beyond the warranty mileage.
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,231
    I'm not aware of them changing anything since 99 concerning braking systems. I've heard of some people having rotor problems, but not as often as yours. I'm at 12K miles on my 01 and so far the brakes are as good as new. I've been towing some too.
  • bblahabblaha Posts: 329
    There is a recall on the brake rotors for years 97 through 99 for the "salt belt" states. The rotors are replaced with less corrosive ones. Presumably, since the recall doesn't affect the '00 or '01 model years, they install the less corrosive rotors on those years.

    However, if you are inquiring about the Grand Cherokee, you are in the wrong forum. This forum is for the XJ Cherokee.

    143ally: You're welcome. :-)
  • Took the jeep to the Great Smoky Mountains last weekend. Got 24-25 mpg on the way down!!! I was very impressed.
    We were going to tow my parents' camping trailer. We hooked it up and the jeep towed it just fine the night before. When we left the next morning, we got about 5 miles from my parent's house and the brakes on the trailer kept locking up. We are not sure what the problem was, but we did have to use an adapter to plug in the trailer lights because the tow package had a 7 prong plug and the trailer had a 6 prong plug. When we go the trailer back to my parent's house, my dad found that a fuse had blown in the trailer. I don't think we should have used the adapter. Anyway, the jeep sure did prove that it could tow the trailer. We went up and down hills without any problems. It was a real bummer when the brakes on the trailer locked up. We really wanted to tow the trailer on our trip to camp in.
    We still love the jeep after 1 month!
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,231
    The problem with trailer wiring, is that there really isn't any "rule" as to what goes where. Alot of times, a couple different wires are switched so you have to rewire everything. I move alot of horse trailers, and it seems like everyone I hook to is the opposite of the one I just had. I'm getting pretty good at rewiring trailers. Most campers have the plug like the Jeep comes with, most horse trailers have the small round connector, but I've seen them opposite too. And then inside each of those plugs there are two wires that might be switched depending on who wired it last!
  • yellowdryellowdr Posts: 41
    I just got my 2000 Ch sport inspected. I had them check the exhaust due to rumble. At times it sounded like it was not fully connected somewhere.

    The service dept found no problems at inspection and NO problems with exhaust... the explanation for the sound is that the new V6 "sounds like that".

    What do you all think?
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,231
    Well, considering it's not a V6 and it's really not new.....hmmmm. The I6 has been around along time, and hasn't really changed much. It is noisy, and it's not that smooth just by nature so they might be right that there isn't a problem. Hard to build an engine with that much power that's extremely refined. The new V6 in the Liberty will be much more refined, of course the torque numbers will probably fall through the floor.
  • ntr166erntr166er Posts: 2
    Greetings from Athens, Greece. I am new to the site and have been reading most of the comments. I am out here with the American Embassy and am due back to ship an auto from the states. We are choosing the Cherokee Sport as we plan to shipit back to the States at the end of my tour,as it has American specs. Our choices are limited out here, service wise we have three Jeep dealers. Traffic here is to say the least challenging. The roads become very slick from the sahara rain we have occassionally as they are made with marble chips. Traffic is a sweltering, congesting, of horn-honking, impatient, frappe - drinking, chain smoking fanatics, and I am half Greek! It also has the highest mortality rate in Europe... It took me one hour to go 6 blocks, last week.. Enough said. Now the reliability question. I get the feeling from the discussion that Chrysler has abandoned it's service of the new Jeep Cherokees, and shifting it's resources to the Liberty line. How has the break-in period for these vehicles been rated so far? I know we can get a deal on these when we return in May, and that makes me nervous. Has the situation deteriorated that much? Any comments, suggestions would help over here.
  • csawrucsawru Posts: 29
    Hello NTR166ER,

    Sounds like you're gonna have a perfect vehicle for your driving conditions. I'm not sure I get your question about reliability. I guess there is a bit of concern about a vehicle built by people who's minds are focused on learning a new vehicle with a new plant and new work rules - or are about to be laid off. But from everything I know and have experienced with the Cherokee driveline and suspension, you'd be hard pressed to find a more durable, rugged vehicle. Yes the addons, GeeGaws and trimmings may be somewhat inconsistent, but Chrylser will HAVE to support these vehicles for at least as long as the warranty expires. Are you moving back before then, or will be there for several years? Don't forget, the aftermarket and parts market for Cherokees will likely be good for a long time - there's 18 years worth of vehicles out there. BTW, last I heard the Cherokee line shuts down on June 29th, and the order lead time runs at least 4 weeks. I'm not sure if the order window has closed yet or not but it's getting real close.

    No one knows how the Liberty will hold up long term. From the literature, they've run it in Alaska during winter, and alledgedly drove it over the Rubicon trail. But how it does after a few years of midwestern winters, or Arizona heat or Florida humidity, the potholes and bad roads everywhere, is any one's guess. Unfortunately, some of these issues just take a while to come out.

    Personlly, in your location, I'd like a vehicle with a simple, rugged powertrain over anything else.

    Good Luck
  • I've been hearing September will be when production of the Cherokee absolutly finishes,(just a rumor, though). Then, that factory at Toledo will be partially revamped to back up the new factory that builds the Liberty. Demand is still high, so if you're returning in May, I doubt you'll have any problems . In fact, you may get a great deal. Dealers will want rid of the Cherokees to make room for the Liberty. I'd just buy one here if I were you, get the TMV( true market value) of this site. Make them an offer they can't refuse. Good luck.
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 40,171
    Jeep Remains Tenth Best-Selling Brand

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  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,231
    Probably want to go with the Select-trac so you can run 4X4 full time if the roads are that slippery when it rains. Maybe ABS too, that's your call.

    Nice thing about the Jeep is it's small, easy to zip through tight spots, pretty darned powerful, and still weighs a ton so you've got the advantage in a head-on:) Get the tow package too because you'll have the heavy-duty cooling package and a nice ram bar in the back:) For the money, I think you'd be crazy NOT to buy the tow package. You can barely get an aftermarket hitch installed for what they charge for the hitch, extra wiring, heavy duty engine cooling, synthetic fluid, and extra tranny cooling.
  • Wow! I have never seen so many people who have problems with WET roads.

    What is the problem with driving on non dry roads? Is this something you really think you need a 4X4 for?
  • csawrucsawru Posts: 29
    Looks like Chrysler looks to keep the deals going...

    As per Jeep's Website:

    http://www.jeepunpaved.com/

    Cherokee
    Current national consumer incentives

    U.S. cash allowance of $2,000 on 2001 models is available through 7/3/01.

    or

    Chrysler Financial's special alternative APR financing is available on 2001 models through 7/3/01: 0.9% short term APR financing or 1.9% long term APR financing is available to qualified buyers. See your Jeep dealer for complete details and eligibility requirements.

    or

    Eligible retail customers may be eligible for a U.S. cash allowance of $1,000 plus Chrysler Financial's special alternative APR financing on select 2001 models available through 7/3/01. Short term APR financing of 0.9% or long term APR financing of 2.9%-3.9% is available to qualified buyers under this program. See your Jeep dealer for complete details and eligibility requirements.

    or

    LOWER YOUR MONTHLY LEASE PAYMENTS! Special lease cash allowance available on select 2001 models through 7/3/01. Please see your Jeep dealer for complete details and eligibility requirements.

    and

    Qualified lessees who are returning from a lease on a Chrysler, Plymouth, Dodge or Jeep vehicle may be eligible for a special loyalty lease cash allowance of $2,000 on eligible 2001 Cherokee models. Offer ends 7/3/01. Please see your Jeep dealer for details.
  • csawrucsawru Posts: 29
    ...yesterday. I took delivery of a built-to-order Patriot Blue 2001 Sport with Tow Package, Selectrac, tint glass, Automatic, and of course the I6 and the usual goodies.

    $22,800 was total price BEFORE incentives. The dealer didn't even flinch when I said I'd start at invoice price, he gave me invoice on the ordered options as well. Minus almost $6000 lease incentives, final price came to $17,400; payments of $306 monthly, with lease end purchase of just about $10,000...Happy Day!
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