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Jeep Cherokee

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  • I to have this exact problem went to mammoth this weekend and on the last grade, witch is a long climb, my transmission started leaking, i could tell by the smoke trail i noticed in my rear view mirror, i stopped by the side of the road and saw a puddle of transmission fluid on the ground and dripping from my transmission couldnt really tell were it was leaking from but it was either from trans cooler lines or where the engine mounts to the transmission, i suspect it either the torq converter leaking or the transmission where it connects to the converter, but i checked the trans fuiled level, it was full. i made it to mammoth i kept the engine rpm under 2500 the rest of the way up and also all the way home witch was a 300 mile trip, transmission does not slip or make any noises, works fine, does need a fuiled change though kinda dirty.
  • dancermandancerman Posts: 220
    Off road guys usually talk about tire diameter when discussing larger tire sizes, for example 33's or 37's. I know without a lift you are really limited in tire size as you will hit the fenders only a few sizes over stock. Your FIPK won't care what tires you have but when you go with a bigger tire you will need to recalibrate your computer or your shift points (auto transmission) and speedometer will be out of whack. But more importantly, larger tires will cause you to loose low end torque because you are in effect changing the gear ratio. It also puts more stress on the entire driveline. You may want to pose your question on a web site that it geared more to off-road. Here's one http://jeephorizons.com/ ; there are many others. Good luck.
  • pahefner01pahefner01 Posts: 202
    Can you tell me if the change in thermostat kept the electric cooling fan from constantly cycling on and off? In the summer with the ac on this fan cycles to the point of annoyance. I would almost rather it stayed on all the time instead of cycling on and off.
  • garry7garry7 Posts: 6
    I think you will find that it is your air conditioner that is cycling on and off and not your cooling fan. and it is normal for your aircon. to do this.
    cheers
  • pahefner01pahefner01 Posts: 202
    To remove the radio, first grasp the fake wood "or platic" surround. It's easy to do. Grab it at the very bottom on both sides and pull, you won't hurt it and it will pop loose and then you can simply lift if up and remove it. Once that's accomplished you have complete access to the radio for removal. I had to learn this to replace my fog light switch. The dealer wanted over $200 dollars to do this. I found out from another Jeep owner about how to get to it. Bought two switches on Ebay for 20 bucks each. It took me less than ten minutes to change the switch.
  • pahefner01pahefner01 Posts: 202
    I'm not sure it is the ac cycling on and off. Watch your temperature gauge. The electric fan does cycle on and off a lot in warm weather and especially if you are using your ac.
    I would still check the relays first. If you fan won't stop running, pull the relay and see if that stops it. Buy a new relay, they're cheap and see if that fixes your problem.
  • 90xjgirl90xjgirl Posts: 3
    quadratech.com wrangler and cherokee stuff is there or jeepin.com
  • mikkinmikkin Posts: 4
    Hey everyone...

    FINALLY.. the vibrations gone..!!! And guess what.. its not the tires, the shafts or anything major... my mechanic explained me that its the yoke in which the shaft sits which became loose due to wear and tear and that made the shaft move around causing vibrations above 55MPH... and the main part is that the jeep dealer to whom I had taken the car initially said that "this is typical jeep..!!!"...Hmmmmm.. I dunno... initially i thought of trusting jeep dealers more than my local mechanic... but i guess i was wrong...Guys.. if anyone needs any help in this regard..lemme know.. if you stay in and around upstate NY then i can give you the mechanics address..
  • bb1362bb1362 Posts: 1
    can you put a motor from a a0tomatic into a standerd.
  • dancermandancerman Posts: 220
    Is this the front or rear axle shaft, or the front or rear driveshaft? How much was the part for the repair?
  • jjurbanjjurban Posts: 3
    Hello all,

    I bought a 1999 Cherokee Sport. All in all, I really love it.

    But the driver's seat is in pretty bad shape. Passenger's seat is so-so.

    I do a lot of long distance driving - 8 to 13 hours at a stretch.

    Can someone please recommend some comfortable, not-too expensive replacement seats for this Jeep? A website or URL
    would be nice.

    Thank you,

    John
    Pittsburgh, PA
  • dancermandancerman Posts: 220
    Shortly after I bought my '99 I realized that the seats were very uncomfortable for long distance driving. I added a seat cover from JC Whitney. They are $40 each. I like them because they have a large lumbar support. I've had them for 80,000 miles.

    image

    You will need to add some foam to the top of the original seat to get a good fit. If you are a large person, they are not the best choice because they have a small seat area.
  • nvtitannvtitan Posts: 5
    Just some "For Your Information" on my 7 year history (yes, I still own it). 2 weeks after buying my 2001 Cherokee Sport (102 miles at the time) I had a severe vibration from the front end at speeds over 50 MPH. At the time of purchase it had factory steel rims. The dealership kept it for 2 days only to find out that the factory pushed out bad rims off the assembly line--wheels would not ballance corectly. Received a free upgrade to aluminum 5 spoke rims and had no issues since. At 12,300 miles I had the check engine light come on. The dealership could not find anything wrong electrically and changed the fuel cap--no issues since. At 51,000 miles I decided to change my rear shocks and to my surprise the heads of one of the two bolts on each side snapped off. Tried several easy outs but the shanks were so corroded in the holes that they would not bundge--took it to the dealer and had them removed (use anti-sieze on bolts when reinstalling them). Now, about 4 months ago my blower motor was intermitten. Sometimes it would go out for days then come back on. Last week it stopped working period. I tore into it and could not find the problem. Was 10 seconds away from changing parts until I narrowed it down when I decided to wiggle the wire plug going into the blower motor. Now it works again. Gotta love Cheaps--I mean Jeeps.
  • novagardnovagard Posts: 1
    Hi Ryan; I have a similar problem (can't remove the gear shift handle). What was the trick? Thanks
  • ryan99ryan99 Posts: 46
    Hi Nova..it actually just pulls off...If I remember correctly just put the key in to unlock the shifter, press the button and pull up...should come right off.
  • maclmacl Posts: 1
    I got 1998 Jeep Cherokee and I'd like to replace the PCV valve but I'm not sure how I can do it, cause some part shops shows me a CCV valve. Also, before to do tune-up the oil pressure was around 40 psi (37), but now after doing this I've been that oil pressure is around 60 psi and when I accelerate it almost is between 70 - 80 psi.
  • Hi,

    Does anyone know where the horn relay is on a 1999 Jeep Cherokee? I have to get it inspected and my horn no longer works ever since my Jeep and I went for a "swim".

    Thanks for any help you can give me!

    Dina
    :)
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    horn relay is in power disb center on pas side between bat and inner fender

    tells which on on inside of cover
  • ryan99ryan99 Posts: 46
    Hello All, On my 99 limited the dealer replaced my ac condensor due to a metallic scraping noise coming from the pulley..( the AC worked fine) this was in November...the other day when it hit 95 degress I put on the AC and it blew warm...I was not happy to say the least. I brought it back to the dealer and they say its a leaking evaporator coil...they gave me a quote of $1165...can I do better than that? sounds high to me...I don't trust this dealer and won't go back to them regardless...Also I am reasonably handy with cars and I am wondering if this is a tough job to do myself....besides all the labor of taking the dash apart...any thoughts? thanks Ryan
  • dancermandancerman Posts: 220
    I am guessing you meant to type the compressor was replaced (condensor has no pulleys).

    The evaporator is under the dash. Besides being an expensive part, the labor is also costly. My neighbor had this done a while back at over $1000. Even if you do the work yourself, you will still need to have an A/C shop evacuate and charge the sytem with refrigerant. I would not do A/C work myself.

    Did the dealer do a leak test to find the evaporator leak? I would be more inclined to think that one of the connections near the replaced compressor is leaking. Any A/C shop can do this work since you don't trust this dealer. Get a second opinion. Good Luck.
  • :D Thanks so much! I'll check it out today. I had no idea where to look, so thanks again.
    Dina
  • lorddrago1lorddrago1 Posts: 19
    O.K this is the 2nd starter. But this time the starter kicks but wont turn over. Good relays. Got power going to it and good grounds. Anyone got any advice?
  • dancermandancerman Posts: 220
    Bad ground.
  • lorddrago1lorddrago1 Posts: 19
    ground checks out good!
  • lorddrago1lorddrago1 Posts: 19
    I found it. Pos cable to starter was corroded all the way thru. Thanks for the help guys. strange it show 12.6v until I tried to start it.
  • ryan99ryan99 Posts: 46
    Thanks Dancerman, you always give me a well thought answer. I did mean compressor and I wonder about the connections to it and don't trust this dealer because they seem to try to gouge me..( 200 dollar quote for a leaky valve cover gasket that they noticed while doing the compressor.) after I retourqed the bolts it was fine and hasn't seaped at all...I don't think I would try this repair myself after yesterday when I decided to add a can of refrigerant mixed with a sealer/ oil...I had a malfunctioning guage to check the A/C with ( cheapo from the parts store thats a few years old) Like a dope I over charged the system and on the way to work heard a shuttering/ banging noise coming from pass side when I turned on the cool air...then there was smoke...I popped the hood and there was freon blowing out of somewhere...couldn't see where. I let some freon out of the low pressure side, turned her back on and the noise was gone at least...funny thing is the AC has been blowing Ice cold all day long! I don't know if it will last but I have had to add 2 cans of freon over the last 5 years...maybe a very slow leak? Is there a pressure relief valve for dopes that over fill the system? Thanks again, Ryan
  • rodeoboyrodeoboy Posts: 8
    A Cherokee is a fine vehicle. The 2000 one of the best years. You sound like a former Mercedes driver. Mercedes does not a Cherokee make. Do you like the cup holder?
  • imijjimiimijjimi Posts: 3
    nothing but a money pit minaswell by a harley
  • I have a strange issue with a 1999 Cherokee I "inherited" from my son. When the engine is cold, it starts right away. If I drive it even a short distance, turn it off, the try to restart it, it is hard to start, and I have to actually depress the gas pedal before it will sputter to a start. No matter how far I drive, the temp gauge needle barely moves towards the middle of the gage, meaning it looks like the engine is still cold. Once started, the car runs fine. The car did sit for 4-6 weeks, but I put fresh gas in it. Any ideas?
  • dancermandancerman Posts: 220
    I'd make sure it has a good tuneup with new spark plugs, cap and rotor, wires, air filter, pcv etc. When replacing these parts, looks for signs of any problems like running rich or lean. If you have a check engine light then have the codes read and go from there. On a fuel injected engine, depressing the accelerator pedal opens the throttle plate adding more air to the engine. If it starts by doing this then your air filter may be very dirty or your MAF may be not reading correctly. If your engine doesn't run at the correct temperature (and the guage is correct) then perhaps the thermostat is missing or stuck open.
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