Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Jeep Cherokee

1717274767784

Comments

  • jiipedjiiped Posts: 2
    My converter had been rattling, and I was about to replace it when lucky me I received a recall notice fronm Jeep saying that they would fix the problem. I thought great, a free converter.

    Took my Cherokee in for service, got it back, now it runs like CRAP !!! It has low performance, not peppy at all like before their fix, harder to start, and shudders to a stop after you turn the key off.
    I called my dealer the same day I got home with it.

    Come to find out, the fix involves changing the PCM, (powertrain control module) computer codes. They won't put it back like it was, I even offered to pay them, they say once they fix a recall problem, they can'y put it back like before. Now I'm stuck with a jeep that I have trouble even gettting up to speed going up a highway ramp. Now that my air - fuel ratios are messed-up, I'll have to live with it or pay for a pcm computer with the old codes.

    I should have just bought a converter myself and had it put in at a muffler shop that wouldn't screw with the computer codes. I suggest you do the same, unless you want lack-luster performance from your Jeep

    Anyone know how to restore my old codes, or have had similar problem, please post.
  • jiipedjiiped Posts: 2
    Don't do it !!! Don't let the dealer touch it.

    They will change the computer codes to new emmision standards and rob all that nice peppy power cherokees are known for, at least the 4.0 's
  • Sorry that you went through this, and thanks much for the heads up on that recall! If I hear how to restore that 4.0 I will let you know ASAP. Thanks again for the post.
  • So I've seen this on SO many threads and wanted to know what the heck is wrong with Jeeps in general? Now don't get me wrong...they are built like tanks to take a beating, but their beating comes from within!

    Here are my details:

    Bought 2000 Jeep Cherokee in 2005. 71K miles.
    Within the past two years...I've replaced: battery, transmission, oil pump (twice), bearings, rods, evap system, sway bars, bar links, bushings, and still burns through a ton of coolant. It ticks, smells burnt.

    My mechanic says it needs a new engine. My warranty of course is fighting it. Is there any recourse for this???

    Why am I losing antifreeze? No leaks, pressure tested.

    Thanks for any help regarding this trouble.
  • So what ended up fixing your problem with A/C system?
  • I just bought a used '96 Cherokee. I have the same exact problem! Did you solve yours? Thanks for any help.
  • Not yet, new pressure sensor cost 58 bucks, just had lower radiator hose blow. Gas milage is killin' me @ 3 bucks a gallon. Garage mechanic that owns a 96 also says that it could be just a sensor gone bad. I'm wondering if the 'check gauges' light comming on tells the computer to give me crappy gas milage !?! you know, that"limp mode" business? I'll get back to you when I do change it, next payday maybe, my health and car insurance is over half my salary. Hard to catch up with a daughter and wife both going to college.
  • dancermandancerman Posts: 220
    It's possible for an internal crack to leak coolant only when the engine is hot due to thermal expansion. If there are no signs of coolant in the oil or on the floor then it seems that it must be getting into a cylinder and expelled with the combustion gases. Your mechanic should examine the exhaust system and pull the spark plugs looking for signs of excess moisture.
  • mmelkimmelki Posts: 4
    I have a completely stock Jeep Cherokee 2000, no lift, no big tires, ALL STOCK. I just changed the track bar, steering stabilizer shock, drivers front U-joint and drivers front ball joints(upper and lower) and a steering alignment. I have "death wobble". What I want to know is why my Jeep makes a clunking sound when I turn at slower speeds, 1mph-25mph. It loves to make the noise when sharper turns are made. What could it be? Also noted I experienced a "death wobble" one week ago and it shook my steering wheel crooked, which is now fixed. Since then my 4 wheel drive light doesn't turn on anymore but the 4 wheel drive low and high both work properly. I don't care about the "death wobble" anymore, I just want to elimate the sound that it is making when I turn so that I can trade in my Jeep and return the favor to the dealership. Thank you in advance. If you would like you can email me akamikemelkiyahoo.com
  • mdawg25mdawg25 Posts: 23
    I was looking at aftermarket air intakes for an '01 Cherokee Sport with the 4.0L I6. Anyone had any luck? I have been browsing and have actually discovered some people losing horspower with air intakes and exhausts. I'm just looking for a little horsepower gain and a good sound :). Thanks
  • Hi Mdawg25,

    I would not do anything, but buy a K&N Air filter and run it in the factory air cleaner intake. I was looking myself for the same thing, and decided to go with a K&N Filter (P/N#: 33-2122)on my 2001 Jeep Cherokee Classic. I did not like the unprotected conical round air cleaner out in the open under the hood. It breathes justr as good with using the factory OEM air cleaner box under the hood. I hope this helps you with your decision, because I am really please with mine. Thanks, and happy jeeping!!!!!!!!

    Jimbo
  • mdawg25mdawg25 Posts: 23
    Thanks Jimbo
    What about aftermarket exhausts? I've been told to stay away, but do you know anything about them?
  • I own a 96 Cherokee with 141600 miles and have never done a thing with the transmission at all from day 1. It runs great, shifts and still does 80 with not a problem. What concerns should I be looking for in later mileage? This is the only car I have never done a thing with on the transmission, it is the workhorse of the family and is always on the road; unfortunately I have neglected "The Red Hair Step Child" (my daughters call the Jeep this name) on this manintenance issue.

    Thanks for the info.
    MJGirard
  • I need some advise, I have read almost all of the message from the last 4yrs on this boeard since i have bought my 98 cherokee, i have replace all shocks, and replace rear tranny seal, and line tranny line, front brakes, power steering line, rear main seal changed the oil, oil pan gasket. over 800.00 for all the work. now today i drove too work which about a 15 mile drive on the highway. the temp gauge always seem to stay at around 205 to 210. today i drove to work it sat for about and hour then when i started it again the temp gauge was at 100 to 105 then it will jump up to 205, 210 again. did this all day when running around for work. but trips were only about 20 minutes long. i am no mechanic so please understand that most work will be done by my mechanic. on the drive in rush hr traffic it start at 105 and when i got on the highway and did about 55 to 65 it jumped to 210 and stayed there till i exited and was stop at a light wher it started to rise and past the 210 mark. when i got home on sat for about 5 min. letting it idle to see if the temp would go any higher it did to about 225 but i shut it off in fear of burning up the engine. i went inside and came out about 5 minutes later and i notices fluid on the ground so i got under the truck and notice it was a red fluid and think i heard something dripping coming from the engine compartment. any info would be much appreciated. sorry for the long post and my lack of skills on the subject. thanks
  • The oil cap on my 2000 Cherokee I6 won't come off. It will turn in either direction, but just clicks instead of unscrewing or screwing in.

    A replacement cap won't cost much so I wouldn't mind tearing the cap off, however I am concerned about debri falling into the engine.

    What can I do to get the cap off?
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    big plyers shoul not get to much stuff in engine could look in after the operation and check it out through the fill hole not to much that can fall in
  • Red fluid is usually from power steering system or the automatic transmission. Check the connections on the lines that were replaced. If you park it after stopping and place a big sheet of cardboard under it you should be able to locate the drip source.

    For high temperature indication, check that your cooling fans are operating properly and that air flow to the radiator is not blocked. It could also be a bad thermostat or low coolant volume. Sometimes the temperature guage could be in bad.

    Best take it to your mechanic since that's who will fix it anyway.
  • jimhajimha Posts: 4
    My daughter drives a '99 Cherokee Sport with about $70k miles. We recently took it in to the dealer for another problem and ask them to check the heat just as a precaution as we live in the NE. They are telling me that the coolant is very rusty, the heater core is shot and that it will cost approx $1,500 to replace. I understand that they have to pull the dash, but can it possibly cost that much? The car is making plenty of heat at present.
  • sam93sam93 Posts: 1
    i am looking for a steering column for a 1988 jeep cherokee laredo.any help would be appreciated
  • Can you tell us what all is included for $1500? Have you looked at the coolant for yourself? I would not replace the heater core if you are getting heat and have no leaks. At 70,000 miles, I would flush the system thoroughly, replace all the hoses, replace the thermostat and refill with antifreeze and water. That is normal maintenance and may cost around $300 at the dealer depending on the cost of the parts.
  • I had the "death wobble" a few months into buying my jeep, it turned out to be ball bearings, one was turned to dust. It was most noticeable at speeds around 45mph after hitting a small (transition in the pavement) crack. It felt the front end was going to fall off. Hope this works.
  • i have a 99 jeep cherokee and its killing me. it starts just fine and runs good but for some reason everytime i start it once i get to a point where i am holding a steady speed or i have to press the gas more it lags and i mean that by it will be going just fine but then it will act like it isnt getting any air and its gasping for it so the engine starts to die down and i slow down then i press the gas to make it go faster ot open the throttle and i get this loud popping noise that sounds like its coming from the right side of my engine after i i get about 3 or 4 pops that sound like a backfire the engine revs up and im good to go untill i turn the car off and start it back up again. i thought it might be my vaccume canister and lines so i swapped em out but that didnt do it im thinking i might need to service my ac compressor but im not 100% sure so i need help anything you guys might have to help would be great thanks guys.
  • Sounds like a clogged fuel filter to me. At least that would be the least expensive try first.
  • I have two noises on my 2000 JGC. The first appears to be coming from the rear and can best be described as a 'whirring' sound. It happens at all speeds and sounds exactly like a tire that is cupped and worn improperly because it was never rotated. My mechanic says that despite what I think, it is from the diffirential and that many jeeps have this issue. His suggestion: live with it.

    2nd noise sounds exactly like the trailer ball/bar bouncing up and down and slapping around in the receiver - expect I have removed the trailer coupler and it is stored in my garage. Any ideas?
  • I have a 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport and I am having some electrical issues. My rear wiper switch recently stopped working. At first it would do intermittent but now it just stopped completely. No matter which way I put the switch it is dead. Also my cigarette light does not work. And for some odd reason the passenger door window switch works ocassionally. I have noticed that sometimes if I mess around with window lock and the drivers side window it will work. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • To Shademist,
    If your wiper isn't working, I think you'll find that the shaft where your wiper blade is attached has rusted, you will need to spray some light oil on the shaft and let it soak for a few minutes, could be the same problem with your switches. I get the same problem with my Cherokee.
    If you've been driving through mud and water, things start rusting pretty quickly and the earthing system loses contact, so check your earth straps on the vehicle and make sure they are not rusted, a good spray can of DWF or similar light oil spray is a necessity in your glovebox.
  • I have a 99 Cherokee Sport. A deer removed the driver side mirror so I bought a replacement. My question is this: How do remove the door panel without causing damage to connectors, etc. There is one phillips head screw on the cover that I can't reach without partially removing the panel. It is very cold here (9F) and I'm afraid I might not be able to get the panel back on properly.
  • After you remove all visible screws, take a wide blade putty knife and slip it under the panel near each plastic clip and gently pry from the door. The wide blade should help distribute the force and avoid cracking the panel. Don't force it. The top part of the panel is hooked over the door frame. Lift up to release. There are electrical and mechanical connections from the panel the the door interior you will need to disconnect to completely detach the panel. Remember how they go together. I take digital photos. To reinstall, line up the panel so that each plastic clip indexes their corresponding hole and gently use push each clip into the hole. You may need a little hammer action with your fist to get them to seat. The clips snap when seated and the panel should be flush to the door frame.
  • Hello, I just bought a '96 Cherokee Sport 4.0 For some reason I'm getting about 100 miles to half a tank. (~200/tank). Is this normal? Any suggestions? Thank you.

    Semper Fi
    USMC
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    Are you basing that on what the gas gauge indicates for a "half tank?" I wouldn't rely on that. You need to fill up your tank, record the amount of gasoline you put into the tank and the odometer reading at that time. The next time you fill up you can calculate how much gasoline you actually used and, along with the new odometer reading, get an accurate measure of your gas mileage.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
Sign In or Register to comment.