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Jeep Cherokee



  • idntnvuidntnvu Posts: 251
    I'm driving a '00 Cherokee Limited at the moment (over night test drive from dealer) and when I picked it up today, the passenger window switch would not work. The window would go down with the switch on the driver's door, but not the passenger's. I took it for a drive around the area of the dealership, and by the time we got back, it had started working again.

    I have to say, that this Limited, with 79k miles on it, drives like it was brand new. Heckuva lot better than my '99 Explorer with just 57k miles on it. However, I think I'll have to pass on it (probably kick myself later) because being a big guy, it just doesn't fit me. Darn shame too, cause it's a looker.
  • 98classic98classic Posts: 6
    My cherokee needs a front driver side door pins... i think. My fornt door sags just a little bit and it causes the molding on my driver side back door to catch . Anybody else had this problem? How do i fix it? the pin or the hinges, and does anybody know what tools to use or anything, I have read almost all of this cherokee forum, i have to say i am impressed with the knowledge i have seen. good job fellow jeepers! :)
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,231
    You won't kick yourself, the XJ just isn't that comfy for big guys. Try a grand cherokee, they're a bit more comfy.
  • The front end of our Jeep met a light pole and lost. When I removed the bent bumper I found another piece of metal behind it and below the the radiator that I think it might be the lower radiator bracket. It is attached to the frame inside of the brakets for the bumper. Has anyone had any experience with removing it?
  • jeep23jeep23 Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Cherokee Sport with 100,000 miles which has been a thrill to own for the past five years, however my electric system is showing signs of failure. I have no mechanical experience, so any help would be appreciated.

    In the past year, three of my four windows have stopped working. One of them is an inch down and won't go back up. I noticed that the windows were failing because they stopped responding quickly, started moaning and finally gave out all together. I spent over $300 on a new window motor and parts for one of the windows, only to learn that this did nothing to solve the problem. I believe it could be a fuse as well, but don't know for sure and don't want to spend more money on a wild goose chase. I've run into other Cherokee owners who have experienced electical issues of the same nature.

    My turn signals and rear window wiper work when they feel like, sometimes for days not at all, sometimes only for a few seconds.

    Finally, my front door speakers don't work anymore.

    Outside of the routine new rooters and brake pads I have not had any other issues to date.

    Are the problems I'm having possibly related???

    Thanks in advance for any input!
  • dancermandancerman Posts: 220
    For about two years, my rear wiper would blow fuses from time to time. The dealer said the motor was bad and wanted me to pay $300. to have it replaced. I decided to try something else. I replaced the 20 amp fuse with a 25 amp and have had no more problems for a year.
  • twarr1twarr1 Posts: 1
    It is the lower radiator support and also a structural component. It is spot welded to the front frame rails in several places and quite a chore to replace. If it isn't too damaged you may consider straigtening it instead of trying to replace it. If it is extensively damaged then chances are the frame rails are no longer straight either - definetely a job for a body shop equipped with a frame machine.
  • astemastem Posts: 6
    I need to make a decision on '01 Cherokee Sport 2DR/4WD(loaded) w/64,000 miles. It's seems to be in excellent condition. My concern is how reliable it will be. I drive 500 miles a week, about 99% being highway. The Cherokee will be great for me in the winter, but will the miles be a killer?? I keep hearing about break issues, but is that a case of basic repair work, or faulty design. I need help fast!!

  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    Sounds exactly like the one I bought in February, only mine is a 4 door. I too drive many miles to work each day, about 42 miles each way with all but approximately 5 miles being 4-lane. I'm not too worried about the miles as I have 72k on it now. The 4.0L has a history of going over 200k miles without any problems and I don't know of any real tranny issues either. My wife works with a teacher that has a late 80's model with around 275k on it. And just this week I looked at a mid 90's model that had 253k on it. Both Cherokees are in really good shape for the mileage.

    Brake issues could be a faulty design. However, that can be easily cured with some better aftermarket rotors and pads. But, I don't think you'll have any of these problems as they should be corrected by now.

    BTW: I don't know your local market, but I paid $11,400 for mine. (Used Jeeps tend to sell over "book value" around here.)
  • Hello, I'm new to the board. I have a 94 Cherokee Sport 4.0L. It did not come with factor tow package. I had a Class III hitch installed. I have been towing a 16 ft travel trailer RV with the original radiator. I have also installed an aftermarket trans fluid cooler. While towing, the coolant gauge indicates bet 210F and 240F. I I put on the AC, the gauge jumps to beyond the redline around +255F. I know that operating condition is too high. I have ordered a "rugged all-metal OEM quality" 3-row rad which states that it ideal for towing. Anyone have any suggestions?
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,231
    I have ordered a "rugged all-metal OEM quality" 3-row rad which states that it ideal for towing. Anyone have any suggestions?

    Sounds like a good start. The factory tow package included heavy-duty engine cooling, probably a bigger rad as you're ordering. The 4.0L does run on the hot-side normally, so it's always been a bear to keep cool when towing.
  • Hello All, I am new here and appreciate the forum.

    I have a 97 Jeep Cherokee , 115K, great vehicle. I just replaced the ABS controller and that light finally went out (and anti-lock brakes work again) but today the "check engine light" came on. It still runs fine. I just did a 300 mile RT to the Oregon Coast last week. Any ideas/suggestions. My friend is a mechanic and will look at it later. Thanks,

    It is so good to hear about Cherokees going 200K plus. That is I want with this one.

  • Thanks for the info and confirmed my hunch. The bar was bent within 2 inches of one of the pulleys and has a 2 inch shear. It pulled the passenger side rail in a little bit. It's at the body shop now and will get out tomorrow. Luckily no major rail damage other than the end. It will cost $500 to remove, reweld the support and straighten the rail. Luckily it fit our budget. Since it is wide open I'm also replacing the water pump and timing chain and gears since it has 111K. Order a 3 panel radiator to help with the overheating.
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    What's the gross weight on your travel trailer? And what type terrain are pulling it over? I'm currently setting my '01 up to pull a Wrangler on a flatbed. I've taken care of the tranny, I'm working on the trailer brakes and a controller. Next I'll tackle the engine cooling and may install an engine oil cooler if needed.
  • max21max21 Posts: 1
  • dancermandancerman Posts: 220
    Is it a V-belt or a flat serpentine belt on the '96? Does it squeal continuously or only at startup. My '99 (serpentine belt) needs tightened every 6 months or so. When the belt is cold and the A/C kicks on, it squeals for a few seconds. But it's fine when engine is warmed up. Tightening fixes it. If you have it tightened to specifications then it may be that your A/C compressor is becoming difficult to rotate and causing the belt to slip.
  • koriskoris Posts: 1
    I have a 93' Jeep Cherokee Sport and recently the window on the drivers side has gotten off track I believe. The window is manual not power, but I know nothing about how to fix it. If anyone could help me out I would greatly appriciate it.
  • the1426the1426 Posts: 11
    I was replacing the radiator in the '95 Jeep Cherokee today. I believe I damaged the connecter on the transmission line that comes into the bottom of the radiator (driver's side). I'm assuming I'll need to replace the line all the way back to the transmission pan when I install the new radiator. Has anyone done this before?
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    Many machine shops, farm equipment and heavy equipment repair facilities can fix hydraulic lines. I don't know what you've messed up, but I'd bet they can take care of it.
  • dancermandancerman Posts: 220
    No need to replace the whole line. Cut it off and splice a new piece to replace the damaged end. Use steel brake line and fittings from your local auto parts store.
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