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Jeep Cherokee

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Comments

  • dancermandancerman Posts: 220
    I agree. Commonly known to Jeep owners as the "death wobble".
  • loosenutloosenut Posts: 165
    the oil sending unit is higher than the oil level ,so-other than a few drops-it ain't gonna leak loke when you pull the oil drain plug..
    --ALSO!! NEVER-NEVER run ANY of that 5wxx oil!! this stuff wasn't even used as break in oil back in the -70's..it's too thin!!..
    -as a extremely poor person-forced to drive other's throw aways,and have bought more than one car,where despite what i thought was a decent test drive-when -80 degree weather hit-i'd start hearing a rod knocking..one car was so bad,and my need for a running car were so desprate,i ran straight sae 50 in it..it lasted me over two years!..not too bad for a 500.car..
    --why the manufacturers recomend this thin-crappy oil is two fold..one is,a engine running thinner oil will get a ounce better gas mileage,raising their corprate fuel mileage..--second,running 5w20 oil ,the engine will only last about 100,00 miles-at best,and that's when they want you back in the showroom,so they can sell you a NEW one..making cars last doesn't do their bottom line any good,-it's called "planned obsolecense"..that's why fuel pumps-witch are a ROYAL pain to replace-only last about 80,000..
    --if you want what you got to last,use the heavier oil,put in the zmax,don't put that cheap crappy gas in a old car(duuuuh!!)heavy synthetic-a10 or 15w40-50 in a jeep should keep it putting along for many good miles,-it won't help when you roll it down the hill sideways,but-ya can't have everything!!
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 40,160
    Oil's a lot better now than it was in the 70's. Back then you were pushing your luck to go 2,000 miles on a 10W40 oil. And the 5W just means how it will flow in the winter (the "w" stands for winter). It'll have the viscosity of the second number when the oil is hot.

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  • jeepgirl3jeepgirl3 Posts: 10
    My boyfriend and I are having a bit of an arguement that I would like someone to settle. I have a 1994 Jeep Cherokee with 237,000 miles on it. I have lovingly taken care of it for 10 years, but it is getting a little feeble. About 4 years ago I had to replace the entire cooling system (water pump, radiator, clutch fan, thermostat and housing and all the hose lines), I did it myself in the front yard, so I have an intimate knowledge of how it all works. Last summer I had some overheating issues and had to replace the clutch fan again and since everything has been fine.

    Fine, until my boyfriend drove it for several hours coming home from vacation (OBX to Maryland). We were loaded to the roof and had two large kayaks on the top, one of the largest loads the Jeep has ever had to haul. My boyfriend likes to drive as fast as possible, so I'd say between 80 and 85 MPH, he also made it down shift to pass other vehicles at this speed. Needless to say, it got too hot. He says there is something still wrong with it. Is there, or is he expecting too much from a 1994 Cherokee? I usually drive it at about 65 MPH and never have any problems. Not even in stop and go traffic where the engine is not getting
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    he also made it down shift to pass other vehicles at this speed

    Redlining is probably not a good idea!

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • loosenutloosenut Posts: 165
    my opinion,he was running her hard,and the extra load-along with climbing grades hard,made her get hot..
    --did it hurt it?,or is it still running-the way you normally drive it?
    -downshifting for power is better than "lugging" the engine..(from a old bus driver running the las vegas run many times)..saw many "city drivers" try todrive the desert grades in drive,while i had to downshift-and would burn up their motors!..
    -downshifting isn't nesiserially bad,but watch the tackometer-and don't "redline"-especially an old,tired engine..you gotta be easy on old stuff-if you want it to last..it'd be like taking a old horse-loading it down,and expecting it to run the kentucky derby!
    i agree with you..take it easy on old gear-if you want it to last!! :shades:
  • karpindurkarpindur Posts: 11
    I have a 2001 Cherokee with 158,000 miles on it. Like you, I have tried to take good care of it. After taking such good care of yours, how did it feel to see it being brutalized by your boyfriend? Keep that dude out of your Jeep.
  • yeats66yeats66 Posts: 5
    Hello...I am new to this group. I have a 2001 Jeep Cherokee 4.0 4X4. I just had the engine rebuilt by NAPA. The new engine is installed and connected. I started it up and it was idling rough. I noticed some vacuum leaks on the injectors so I replaced all of the O-Rings. That seemed to fix some of the problems. I checked the onboard computer and there are not error codes. The engine sounds great when you run in above 1000 RPM. It just when it idling is when it is rough. There are no air leaks. All of the sensors are connected. Before the engine died(before it was rebuilt) it ran and idles normally. Does anyone have an opinion?
  • Still sounds like a vacuum leak of some sort.
  • yeats66yeats66 Posts: 5
    I have triple checked numorous times...i thought there may be a leak on the manifold but there was not. Any other suggestions?
  • paulepaule Posts: 382
    I suggest a quadruple check on the vacuum lines. Maybe one of the check valves on the valve cover is reversed?
    Usually a rough idle will eventually be chased down to a vacuum line either partially connected, disconnected, or connected to the wrong place.
  • I have a 1988 Cherokee that needs to have the AC charged, but I am calling around to find prices for this service and cant tell what kind of AC fluid I need. Does anyone know if it is R12 or 134A in this model?
  • A decal on your radiator support or the firewall should tell you what kind of refrigerant it takes. IF it's R12 it will need to be retrofitted for R134A. No way around it. It's law.
  • fisherpatfisherpat Posts: 7
    Took my Cherokee to Autozone and they ran diagnotics. Code says I have either a failed transmission range sensor,,or ,, Open or short circuit condition...My question: Where is this range sensor located and how do I trace open circuit with this thing. Part only available at dealers I understand. Any reply would be appreciated. 2000 Jeep Cherokee 4.0l auto 4 wheel drive.
  • allezomallezom Posts: 1
    I know it's an old post but have you found out the problem. I am having the exact same issue. Already replaced TPS, and the 2 O2 sensors. Problem is still there.
    Thank you.
  • fisherpatfisherpat Posts: 7
    It appears that my neutral saftey switch for transmission on my 2000 cherokee 4.0l has gone bad. I had posted earlier saying it was my transmission range sensor and that is not the case. Is it all right to drive with this condition around town until I can get it fixed????
  • scp76scp76 Posts: 1
    Chris,
    I have a 2001 Cherokee, and have the same issue. Have you been able to resolve this, and if so, could you elaborate?
    Thanks.
  • loosenutloosenut Posts: 165
    who installed the engine?? try taking it back to them-then napa!!..
    --a GREAT trick i learned with vacum leaks is to take carb cleaner,and a "straw"(like on a can of wd40?)
    spray around these places that it could be leaking--while the engine is running--if the engine starts stalling-or running faster--THAT'S WHERE YOUR VACUM LEAK IS!!! fixing the leak is the next step..
    good luck!!
  • larlylarly Posts: 1
    Is there a possibility that this is caused by a differential issue? Front Track bar & harmonic balancer replaced. Still doing the death wobble at 53 mph about 35% of the time. Of course, not when a mechanic is present...
  • Just bought jeep cherokee, is there a secret to changing oil filter-looks a nightmare. Any suggestions would be wonderful, cheers..
  • paulepaule Posts: 382
    Year? Engine size?
    There should be plenty of room in there to get at it. Let us know what year and engine and we can answer your question.
  • Cheers bro its a 1998 2.5 TD. Filter located on left as you look at engine, not a lot of room for manuver as steering shaft lies one inch or so directly underneath !
  • paulepaule Posts: 382
    Aahh, a friend from across the pond.
    I never even knew Jeep offered a 2.5 diesel until today so I don't think I'll be able to help you with this one!
    Good luck with it.
  • -a filter should be just like any other filter-it ain't rocket science..if it's the same style as a gas engine(just a spin on filter),invest in a strap wrench-the rubber kind with a plastic handle--lefty-loosey,righty-titey !
    --make shure you have the right replacement filter,as being stuck-if this is your only ride,it'll be a long walk back to the parts shop..wet the rubber "O" ring with a dab of oil before you install the new one-kind of like THE DIRECTIONS SAY?..sorry,but get a lot of people asking things that are printed on the box..
    never overfill the engine..it's better to run it 1/2 quart low-than over,as the extra oil puts extra pressure,and can damage sealsand more fun things like that..after adding oil,and running engine-to fill the filter,check for leaks,DON'T over-torque the filter,as that will make getting it off the next timeextra difficult..that "extra" twist-just to make shure it's tight-COULD crush the filter's seal,and make it leak..spin it down till it contacts the seat,then3/4 of a turn(use the labels on the filter to judge),and it should be fine..
    -----
    --your 1 inch clearence should be just enough to get the old one out,and the new one on..
    good luck-and let us know ifin it worked or not..
  • Thanks for info. The reason this is turning into a mission is because the previous owner fitted a GRAND cherokee engine and not a simple cherokee. Hence my problem. Any info would be helpful.... argh!! The filter is hitting off the steering shaft and causing oil to leak. Its right hand drive. :cry:
  • now i understand your plight better..and-there is a possible solution..
    -they make a 2/3 sized filter for those tight applications..the simple way i'd find it would be to look up dodge filters,(phram's numbers are prefixed with a "ph"..the big one was a ph8a,the small one was-ph16a,or something like that,but check with your parts place-or,are you having to order and ship?
    -but give that a whack..ok? :sick:
  • thanks again, that sounds really good. I have contacted fram to see if they do a smaller version. I will keep you updated.. many thanks. :shades:
  • --if you can read what kind of filter is on there now,and the number,that would help you find the one your looking for..
    -my grand cherokee laredo has the 5.2-v8 in it,witch-being a chrystler 318(basically-with the fuel injection upgrade,but still-internally,the same engine they've beeen making since the -70's)-normally used a-ph8a-,.. ph-being phram's prefix,other manufactures use their own prefix,but usually keep the same model number acrost product lines..
    -with all the junk,and tight header configuration-they recomend the -ph16a- ..that's the 1/2 sized one-but still fits on the block using the same thread size-gasket placement..it's just shorter in stature (height) than the regular-full sized one.--get the model number off of the old filter-then that will help them find the 1/2 size you need..
    good luck! ;)
  • yea, I sent them the serial No in my mail to fram ( ph4678), and also the No of the one you suggested (ph16a). I think it possible to move the filter mounting a few degrees one way or the other which would buy me enough space to fit regular filter. Watch out road..I'm coming! :)
  • sorry about this turning into a "mini-series,"but i had another thought..
    --see if a REMOTE-MOUNT FILTER KIT is available ? ! .
    ..with a mount-a few hi pressure hoses,and changing the filter would be the simplest ! you'd mount the other end of the bracket-anywhere it'd fit-like th fender,or core support !..also,they say it works kinda as a oil cooler,as th filter would get cooler air acrost ir=t, ! !..
    --phram is a great place,here in the states anyway,as all the auto parts have them..their "textured grip" filter-where i can get enough grip on a old filter,i've changed them with just my hand !..didn't need a wrench!..that impressed me,great idea..
    -with a clerance issue,the remote filter-if available-and not cost a fortune-might be a great way to go ! ? ..keep me informed..and good luck!
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