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Jeep Cherokee

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  • that does sound really interesting, I never knew about that before. However I have fitted a smaller filter and all seems to be well. I am still going to fit the PH16a though as it is recommended for my jeep. It "reeks" of dark smoke, but that I think is because it has been sitting on a farm unused for two years! It'll get a good blast on the road soon I hope. Reverse gear seems a mission to engage though. Fingers crossed it's going for anual MOT test tomorrow to see if it passes the road worthy test. Pretty pretty please... :D
  • loosenutloosenut Posts: 165
    well,the stale "petrol" -we call it "gasoline,and stuck rings could be the black smoke..
    take it out for a long drive-cell phone handy !,and it might get her cleared out..also,put the highest octane-best fuel in it you can..even leave it sit and idle-making shure it's not overheating,and get her loosened up..
    -the transmisssion being difficult might mean THAT fluid-and filter need changing..or,it's nearing where it needs rebuilt..if it's automatic..(i assume)..ain't it fun getting old-forgotten trucks to live again??..make shure to check for dry-rotted rubber hoses..heard where a fella found a old corvette in a barn..figured to "just drive it around the block..",fuel line gave way,spraying fuel on the hot engine--burnt it to the ground..!he was not happy..
    --be careful,and have fun !..glad th phram filter worked out! :shades:
  • Wow JEEPGIRL3! I was so glad to read your post as I too am a jeepgirl. I love my 1999 JGC so I can relate. Except....for the part about the boyfriend!!!
    Are you kidding me? I'd have kicked his funny butt out at the next highest peak.
    Besides he's just jealous of your expertise and the amount of time you 'wasted' on your Jeep. :)
  • babe passed MOT test yahoo! your right about old fuel - Its a diesel, manuel gearbox 5 speed. I'll be nursing it for a little to keep an eye on things. I do hope to run it on bio fuel ( save the planet and all that) ha ha. Really chuffed with it - my first 4x4. Its rough and ready but thats just fine with me. No airs or graces! Cheers again good buddy..... :)
  • loosenutloosenut Posts: 165
    glad to hear it!,and thrilled one of my babelings helped someone..
    -yes,jeeps are "ruff -and-ready",all gears and steel.!
    -and "babe" is a great name for her..with a word of caution..if you start bragging about her-that's when they break down,usually with one of those "mystery" ailments..
    -so,the "cure" is -every now and again,curse her just a bit-kick her in the bumper-somewhere it's not gonna dent,and she'll run forever..start talking good about it,and you-and your mate-may end up using "shoe leather express"(rofl)..best of luck with babe..sounds like you got a good one..(slap-boink!)-to her..
    p.s;
    if it's been setting that long,change the axle grease,and the transfer case oil..show it SOME love?!.. :blush:
  • ryan99ryan99 Posts: 46
    Hi All, I am looking for a little advice with my rear window defogger. I have a 99 Cherokee limited with heated mirrors and my rear defogger quit on me. I am trying to fix it myself but like most people my time is limited. So far I have found that the switch is good (tried a different one,) the relay is good and there is power to the switch (checked with a multi meter) The fuses are also intact. I can hear the relay click on and off when i press the switch, but no amber indicator lamp and no warmth on the glass. Today I checked the wires at the hatch and didn't see any broken wires and also the drivers mirror. Does anybody know of any common fail items for this or common short circuit spots? I have a repair manual that explains how to test the instrument panel with a multi meter and that is the next step unless anyone has any advice. Thanks, Ryan
  • ryan99ryan99 Posts: 46
    also the grid looks to be in good shape but no power at the grid..
  • paulepaule Posts: 382
    If you don't have an amber indicator lamp at the switch, I would pull the switch back out and put your multimeter on both sides of the switch to confirm it is working. Also check the "upstream" side of the switch with one lead with the other lead to ground (I'm assuming this is a positive fired switch but it may be ground fired which would mean you would need to do the opposite. A better option is to remove the fuse and just do a continuity check across the switch terminals which would confirm if it's good or not.
    Other than that, I'd start chasing wires after confirming the switch is good and you do not have power at the rear grid (one lead to the wire coming into the grid; the other one to ground.
    If the switch is good, the likely culprit is where the wire goes into the hatch from the body itself.
  • garry7garry7 Posts: 6
    change your fuses,just 'cos a fuse looks good, doesn't mean it is good,I have been caught before with this same problem

    Cheers

    Gary07
  • loosenutloosenut Posts: 165
    use the "ohmn" setting,and test the rear window grid..
    -you should get resistance from the two terminals at the glass(a complete circut)..
    -next,see if you get any power at the window..then,check the ground side..(that's the one that always got me stuck!)
    --if the amber light isn't coming on-it could just be the amber light-if the switch checks out ? !..check and see if the amber light gets power,then check it's ground..
    --electrical problems are some of the hardest things to diagnose,and with cars getting more complicated-it ain't gonna get any easier ! !-especially when we get-(shudder. ! )-electric cars! !..that's gonna be a LOT of fun! ! :shades:
  • ryan99ryan99 Posts: 46
    Thanks for the replys everybody. Hey loosenut, there is continuity at the grid but no power. there is power at the switch and continuity in the switch, no amber light in two different switchs that test fine. Everything checks out and I am left to think there is a problem with the instrument panel down where the relay is. What am I looking for at the ground side of the window? How do I check ground at the switch? I took apart the rear hatch interior panel and looked at the ground and hot wire to the glass and all appeared fine. I'm at a loss trying to figure this out...
  • loosenutloosenut Posts: 165
    using the meter,and a handy ground-back at the window,see if there is power..if there is,you have a bad ground-check the other side of the glass-trace it down,and clean the contact-making shure your ground is good..
    --if you can dig up a L-O-N-G- TEST LEAD,TRY PUTTING STRAIGHT POWER TO THE GLASS-ON THE POSITIVE SIDE....(MAYBE THEN YOUR AMBER LIGHT WILL LIGHT?)--sorry-caps lock stuck..
    --all this sounds like you've got a bad relay..unplug the relay,and with the test wire,unplug it from the glass-gently,-then,go back to where the relay plugs in,and see if there is power at the "output" point,if not,wire is broken somewhere..i have run a extra wire-tucking it in,so it doesn't look bad-just to save trying to trace where a broken wire is..
    --have you tried replacing the relay??--if you hear it "clicking",have someone turn it on and off,while you trace it by ear ! ?..
    --no power at the glass means a bad relay usually..try the simpler things first,then go for the more complicated..after all,it's just a 12v circut-but it pulls a pretty heavy load..
    --if you get it working,and find a few bars in the grid that aren't heating-they sell a conductive-copper colored paint-used to repair defrosters..
    best of luck!
  • loosenutloosenut Posts: 165
    resistance at the glass is good,means you've got a circut..to check for ground,ohm meter on a ground to ground wire..while there,see if power side has ground..if so,theres a short..
    -the relay has TWO sourses of power..one to activate the coil(the clicking noise),then-and where your problem may be-is a thirty-to-fifty amp fuse that would put power to the window..check owners manual,or the fuse diagram-grouped with things like the heavy fuse for the a/c,and see if that's the trouble..it just might be !
    lots of luck! :shades:
  • ryan99ryan99 Posts: 46
    Thanks for all the help! Trying to keep it simple I rechecked fuses in the power distribution center under the hood and found a blown 30 amp fuse titled HBL. It didn't look blown but it was. popped in a new one and I am good to go! Not sure why it blew though...
  • loosenutloosenut Posts: 165
    well;you saw where it took me TWO post's to thumk it through !,but-we figured it out !..HORRAY ! !..
    -fuses blow from a power surge..coulda been something got wet,and pop !..that's why they are there..
    you have made my day !..
    i helped someone figure out a problem,and a kinda complex one at that !...so,does the amber light work now?
    also,there is a timer on that circut,think it runs 15/20 minutes,to keep it from gettin too hot!

    was the fuse under the hood?-right or left side?,just to help the next person who runs into this problem!
    have a great day! :shades:
  • ryan99ryan99 Posts: 46
    Good Idea! The fuse is labeled HBL and its in the power distribution box under the hood on the passenger side. I checked these fuses once before but they all looked good. I just started trying to figure out what they all went too and figured out HBL was the defroster. Your detailed advice was good and I was going to get into it but decided to recheck those "big stuff" fuses you were talking about. I have been obsessed with this for weeks now! looking over diagrams and testing things with a multi meter. I'm glad to have it fixed and it is an otherwise terrific Jeep. Thanks again!
  • loosenutloosenut Posts: 165
    i humbly accept your praise,..
    -this is EXACTLY why chat boards like this were set up,and why they are sucesful..despite my horrid spelling(spellcheck? what's that??)haha..
    now,if i could just find someone to help me with the noise in my rear axle-short of replacing or rebuilding,witch is where i'll probably end up..
    glad we got your electrical problem sorted out,and-who knows?,maybe helped someone else out there just following our blog ? ! have a great day ! :blush:
  • loosenutloosenut Posts: 165
    when you were checking the fuses,were you pulling the fuses out,and visually inspecting them,or-using the "circut tester-light"-or the multi-meter,testing the "tabs" -the metal at the top of the fuse?..that's the way to really test a fuse,because-as you found out-it might "look" fine,but-if power isn't flowing,it don't work !.. ;)
  • ryan99ryan99 Posts: 46
    I was pulling them out and looking at them.
  • My Jeep has a sound coming out of the front driver's side wheel area.. I have had the crank shaft removed and did not fix the problem, had the rear differential (not sure why) replaced and did not fix the problem, transfer case was checked and all was fine there.. the sound does not appear to affect the operation of the vehicle, it just sounds like the front end is about to fall into a million pieces. I can also stop this sound by applying the brakes. It happens on the acceleration of the vehicle from a stop to about 20 mph. Turns are worse sounding also.. any suggestions?
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    front wheel bearing need to change bearings as a unit
  • Thanks, 2 mechanics have not wanted to attempt that idea due to cost in case it didnt fix the problem.. any idea how much that should cost?
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    around 150 or so depends how hard old hub comes off
  • I have a 2002 Gran Cherokee with trouble codes P0031, P0051, P0155, and P0158. Any advice as to where to start? Could one cause the other, or is there something else that could cause these to trigger? Any advice would be most appreciated. Thanks.
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    looks as if you have to replace oxy sencers
  • I have a 91 jeep cherakkee laredo that has a 4.0 6cyl inline that is over heating i have replaced the radiator water pump and i dont have a clue of wat else to do
  • We've been having this exact same issue with a 2000 Cherokee Classic 4.0L. Intermittent episodes of not starting and battery appears to be totally dead then the next day will start just fine, sometimes the check guages light will come on but then it's fine, sometimes you can turn the key on and nothing will happen for several seconds and then it will start, etc. Every now and again it will start but die right away and it has to be revved up above idle for a little bit to keep it running. Cost is definitely an issue right now so trying to track down the problem ourselves, is this indicative of a failing ignition switch?
    I've read other posts where people have run a ground lead from the motor to the firewall to eliminate these kinds of issues, is this something we should do just in case?
    Thanks in advance for any input!
  • First rule out the starter. During one of these "no start episodes", have someone hold the key in the start position while you tap the starter with a hammer or a metal rod. (however you can get to it easiest, from top or bottom) If it starts while tapping on it, it's the starter. It wouldn't hurt to have the extra ground wire from the engine to the firewall as a broken ground strap or wire can have intermittent effects such as these.
    I really doubt it will be the switch, as mine is a 1994 year model and I haven't had that problem from the switch. I havereplaced the starter for the same reason you are describing. Good luck! :shades:
  • ryan99ryan99 Posts: 46
    I am having this same problem. Whatever became of it for you? Did anything need replacing? I just find I have to keep playing with the plug from time to time. thanks, Ryan
  • I've got a blown clutch bearing on my A/C compressor and rather than replace the compressor right now I'd rather swap the compressor for a bypass pulley. Trouble is, I haven't been able to find one for that model year. My local NAPA says no one makes it. Any ideas? (I don't think a belt from a non-A/C model will work; I don't think the belt routing will work.) Thanks, pd
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