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Jeep Cherokee

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Comments

  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    "dancerman" is right. If you've rebuilt engines 20 years ago, then the 4.0 I6 won't be a problem. Other than the computer and a few sensors, it is an old tech engine. That's why Jeep has quit producing it and why I LOVE it. I am rebuilding one now, well I'm doing a little bit at a time as I get the money. I've never done this before, but when I pulled it apart, I was amazed at how simple and straight forward this engine is! You can buy COMPLETE rebuild kits in the $500-$600 range. Those kits include everything except the head assembly, crank, block, water pump, distributor, exhaust manifold and intake assembly. Basically ALL the rotating parts.

    I'd also recommend the Haynes or Chiltons manuals. That are available at any discount auto parts stores for around $20. A factory service manual is the way to go, but those are considerably more. Since you have experience, the cheaper manual may be all you need. Really all you'll need are the tolerances and torque specs anyway.
  • riverbugzriverbugz Posts: 5
    :confuse: This is in regards to my 1998 Jeep Cherokee Sport 4WD 4.0L . I have a reoccurring problem that has been unable to identify and correct. When driving the vehicle it will (normally in 1st or 2nd gear) sputter or almost choke out while pushing the accelerator. With this you can hear a popping sound in the header or in that general area. A reoccurring O2 alarm also occurs even though both sensors have been replaced. This has been cleared many times and always comes back on when the truck is in the idle position. When I pull to a light it will at times idle rough then surge. I have been led down many roads to fix this problem and none of them have helped. I have replaced the following parts Ignition coil, plugs, plug wires, cap, and rotor, throttle body and all the adjoining sensors (TPS, Idle air, etc). The computer has been upgraded, the timing has been set, and we have checked the vacuum lines, all connection to the injectors. I have run injector cleaner in the gas a number of times. Could this alarm and the performance problem be directly related? Or is there any direction that I have not gone to fix this? I have heard of other people having this problem and the answer seems to be ditching the vehicle. I DO NOT WANT TO. CAN YOU PLEASE HELP ?!?!??! :sick:
  • dancermandancerman Posts: 220
    Sounds like your are having a problem with ignition timing. Did you have the ignition module tested? It also could be a problem with the top dead center crank sensor or the camshaft position sensor. We once had a similar problem with a GM car that turned out to be the distributor electronics. The mechanic found it by removing the distributor and testing it under load in a special test machine.
  • I have a 1998 Cherokee sport. It recently started making noise at the rear of the engine. A wobble-ish squeaking noise. It makes the sound when in park or at low speeds but I dont notice it when driving. There is a little oil around the bell housing but not much.

    Any thoughts?
  • roger44roger44 Posts: 4
    My battery drains while parked more than 4-5 days. I replaced battery... dead 4 days later. I removed negative battery cable, hook volt meter between post and cable..I get 5 volts reading. I removed the Engine Control 30 amp fuze from the fuse box under the hood and the voltage goes to zero. Any suggestions? Is short in the line or in the ECM itself? Any other test I should run?
  • dancermandancerman Posts: 220
    I don't think the oil leak is related. Most L-6 engines eventually leak from the rear crank seal. How loud is this noise? I think I would have a mechanic put it on a lift and try to pinpoint the source.
  • Its not too load. Its not consistent ether. Sometimes I have to really try to hear it and others its obvious as soon as I start it.

    I didn't think the oil was related ether but I thought I should mention it just in case.
  • roger44roger44 Posts: 4
    I had squeeking type nois coming from same general location on my 92 Cherokee. I could hear it better as my driveway passed the side of my house....noise was more pronounced. It sounded to be intune with the drive shaft. Put on lift with tranny in drive...noise was coming from boot that protected the drive shaft spline where it extended into the back of the transmission. Lifted up the boot with a small screwdiver, some wd-40 and squeek went away. Have had to repete a couple of times as boot dries out. Hope this is your problem...easy fix.
  • I think we have decided just to replace the engine. That is going to be the lowest cost method. Now .... I just need to find an engine. We called around locally and can't find an 4.0L MT for a 1993 Cherokee under 100K miles. We are looking to spend around $600 delivered. Any ideas?

    MasonJeep08
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    Well, I'm gonna make your day. You don't have to purchase one out of a '93 Cherokee. You can use the 4.0 out of ANY Jeep model, whether it is a Cherokee, Grand Cherokee or Wrangler. The engines are all the same. You may have to swap out some parts from the original engine, such as the fuel rail, exhaust manifold, ignition, etc.... I'm working on a '96 Cherokee 4.0 to put into my '95 Wrangler. The 4.0 is a wonderfully interchangable engine. :D
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    You may have a hard time finding one delivered for under $600, but here's just one possibility I found on ebay.

    link title
  • mrfurdmrfurd Posts: 1
    I have a dream of towing a 18'airstream trailer (3000 lbs.) with my 98 cherokee sport. It has towing hitch, and with weight distributing hitch supposedly can pull 5000lbs.

    Can anyone with experience using a cherokee to tow give me any advice? It towing something this size a pipe dream or a real possiblity?
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    Well, it's not a pipe dream if the Cherokee it outfitted properly and your driving style matches the load. I use my Cherokee to tow my Wrangler to offroading locations. I tow it on a 16' flatbed trailer that has brakes.

    Trailer brakes are probably the most important factor in this equation. 'Cause it don't matter how you get down the road if you can't stop when you get there, or when someone pulls out in front of you. Get a good brake controller. I suggest the Tekonsha Prodigy, but there have been some newer ones that may be even better. You don't want to skimp on the controller. Next, you already have the weight distributing hitch, so you should be good to go there. In addition to the hitch setup, you'll probably want to add sway control. A travel trailer can really push the tow vehicle around in high crosswinds or with passing trucks. My particular setup, the Wrangler on a flatbed, tows very straight with little or no sway. I can't say the same for my little 10' popup camper! What is your gear ratio? Mine is 3.55 and does ok, however I wish mine were 3.73 or even a 4.11. The frontal area of your trailer could cause it to wind load more at highway speeds, so a higher numbered ratio could be necessary. You won't know that until you tow it a few times. Next is the tranny. Change your tranny fluid often when you tow. Install as big of a tranny cooler as you can fit behind the grill. Mine is a B&M that literally covers half the radiator. Route the cooler lines so that the tranny fluid coming out of the tranny goes through the cooler first, then through the factory cooler in the radiator, then back to the tranny. Do it this way, or the fluid may get too cold in the winter. You don't have to install a tranny temp gauge, but I highly suggest it. A tranny temp gauge let you "see" just how hard you are working the tranny. Out on the highway with the tranny in "D", not "OD", my temps run very close whether towing or not. However, in town, or when climbing a steep grade, basically anytime the torque convertor unlocks, the temps will start climbing. Thats where you have to watch the temps. You'll cook a tranny quicker in those situations than any other.

    Another factor is your location. If you're in the mountains or hills, then you may want to get another opinion. If you're a flatlander, such as myself, then the Cherokee should handle it just fine.
  • Hi all I hope things are going well for you, I have a ,95 Cherokee SE, with 225k miles on it, the other day I had my u-joints replaced, and the lube replaced in the the diff, yeaterday I heard a awful noise coming from the rearend, stopped and looked at saw nothing obvious, this morning I pulled the drums off the axle and looked at them (both) the inside of the left one had been rubbind on the backing plate and hence chewed the "rim " off the drum, I found some metal pieces in the drum removed them, and drove it home, on the way I heard the same type noise from the tight side, I haven't pulled the drum yet But I have a feeling it is the same problem. Is there any possible connection between the drum issue and the overfilling (IMO) the diff housing, allowing the axles to "float" in and out causing what I have described?
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    No amount of overfilling would cause the axle shafts to "float". Those axle shafts not only carry the torsional load required to turn the tires, but also carry the full weight place on that axle.

    What I'm concerned about, and you should be too, is what metal pieces came loose in the brakes. Those pieces could be vital to the operation of your rear brakes. Without seeing it for myself, I can't possibly tell you what it is. With that many miles on your XJ, you probably should replace everything inside the drum anyway. You can get a complete rebuild kit at AutoZone or Advance for around $50 for both sides. If the wheel cylinders have never been replaced, then this is a good time to do that as well.
  • Just did the brakes all 4 completely on April 8th this year, I did the shoes and pads and the drums and rotors, so you can see my concern that the new brake drums are about a month and a half old are now junk, for all practical purposes, I am hoping that what ever is causing the axles to float is not related to the work done the other day.
  • dancermandancerman Posts: 220
    Your first post didn't mention recent brake job. My guess is either the drums were wrong ones or defective.
  • Now the question is why did it wait nearly a month and a half later, after a lube change to show up? I will be getting with the mechanic that did the ujoint replacement/ diff lube change Tuesday, and see what is up. Thanks for your replies guys!
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    The fact that a brake job was done recently changes everything. I'm with dancerman, the drum could be the wrong ones. Or, I'm thinking, whoever did the work didn't put the pieces back together correctly. Something's amiss to cause them to start eating themselves like that.

    Get together with the guy that did the brake work.
  • Well I found the problem, but can't fix it today, I will have a talk with the brake guy and chew his butt(me),the parking brake link (bar) fell out of position and lodged between the drum and backing plate why I don't know why 'cept that the little spring that holds it tight dissappeared, I am thinking dealer only item, unless one of you guys have a spare you can bring me lol, thanks for your help!
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