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Mazda Millenia EGR problem

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Comments

  • Mike,

    so replacing the sparks and wires will take care of the p0301 issue,
    what shall we do about p0701 (leak?)maf sensor?
    and lastly, the p1522 ??? check wiring on solenoid? where are they located?

    Be Blessed
  • dawn40dawn40 Posts: 1
    My friend has a 2002 Mazda Millenia and he went out to start it for his wife - it started fine but when he turned the heater it died. He tried to started it again and it sounds like it wants to start but it doesn't. It has been a couple of weeks since it was started and we have just recently had temps in the teens and single digits.

    Could the gas line be froze?? Battery issue?? or Electrical??
  • abourqueabourque Posts: 5
    Can anyone help me... I have a 2000 Millenia S and it is running like s--t. It runs hot every once in a while and when I'm on the highway driving aprx. 65 miles per hour it is sputting/missing almost like gas isn't getting to the right place. The check engine like is on so I brought is to a local shop and they ran codes and what showed PO115, PO431, P1790. The guy told me he doesn't work on this type vehicle so I'm stuck. any ideas of what the codes mean and how I can get it fixed? Also, TCS OFF/ TCS light comes on every blue moon. sometimes only TCS OFF, sometimes both.thanks
  • abourqueabourque Posts: 5
    Hey I know it's been a while since you posted this but.... I have a 2000 Mazda Millenia S with this same code P0431. Same problem as you, local shop told me cat converter but the muffler shop told me it was in good shape, looked new some then another shop said pre-cat... talk about confusion is right. I'm lost and don't know what to do... you can email me at april.bourque@yahoo.com or reply on this post. thanks
  • bobrkrbobrkr Posts: 2
    I purchased my 2002 Millenia S in 11/05. Every year since, I have had the same recurring prblm. The A/C will be working fine and all of sudden you get that stale, humid air feeling and realize it quit. The fan is still blowing but it's not cold air. Sometimes it will cycle and come back on but most times the engine has to be turned off before it will work again. This year it has happened the most which is several times a week. Previous years were like it would be great for several days to a few weeks at a time with no problem but eventually it would happen. The A/C has been looked at every year by a mechanic. 2 times they said the ever popular "Could not duplicate problem". 3 times (including this year) I was charged around 80.00 per visit because they said I was "A little low" on freon but no leak detected. Any suggestions? It's freaken hot this summer in Kansas. HELP!
  • bobrkrbobrkr Posts: 2
    How difficult is it (for the avg person) to replace the EGR Valve on a 2002 Millenia S? The part is approx 15.00 and the labor is approx 120.00ish. I am willing to try and do it myself if it's not too difficult.
  • I just purchased a 2001 Mazda Millenium V6. with 100,000 miles. It ran good when purchased. Last week I began hearing heavy tapping noise coming from motor when I started the car. When I excellerate the tapping noice would go away or quiet at times. Other times the tapping would get worse. It has got to a point I cannot drive the car because of fear I will do permanent damage to the motor. Has anyone experienced this problem or have an idea of the what the issue could be?
  • mailly196mailly196 Posts: 2
    edited February 2011
    I have a Mazda 2002 Millenia and I recently came across this situation . My CEL came on and prior to it coming on I noticed I was getting a rough idle at times , actually a knocking every couple of seconds , would do it three or four times as I wait for green light . Also was getting a sluggish acceleration . I stopped in at a local Autozone , they plugged it up and a code P0431 came back / Catalyst System . I simply added Iso-Heet/Water Remover and Lucas Complete Fuel Treatment . After driving 25 miles the car runs smoother and no more CEL . Hope this may help anyone before running to a shop and throwing money away . Thank You . ;)
  • only1jeronly1jer Posts: 1
    ok, my car's been in the shop 3 times in the last 3 weeks!!! First codes P0421, 1250 and P1522 came up and the shop did some replacing of a couple valves or something like that then 10 miles into my drive home my check light came back on so brought it back and they decided that it was 2 o2sensors and 1 catalytic so they replaced those and then 20 miles into my drive it comes on again and this time they didnt give me any codes, just told me that the puter must be reading that the old unreplaced o2 sensors are bad now and that i should replace those!!! So instead I went to autozone and was told that it was now only code P0421 and i should look for leaks before anything else. They reset the computer and it was great! No check engine light for 2 days! Then tonight... BAM!! It's back on and auto zone says its P0421 and also P0400. So now i have a whacked catalytic converter and a egr problem!??!??!?!!??!! PLEASE SOMEONE OUT THERE SAY YOU'VE BEEN THROUGH THIS AND HAVE ANSWERS!!!!! PLEASE!
  • Iv reached my limit with this car maybe someone here can help me out.
    Car idles perfectly but when put into drive, it reaches approx 2000 rmp the engine bogs down and doesn't allow me to speed up, going up hills is worst most of the time i end up slowing down. Mazda did some work on it then suggested it was the supercharger... Fail... I purchased a used supercharger and after the swap out the problem is exactly the same.. So to add to the mess, I attached a diagnostic computer to my car which I have done plenty of times before... except now when I unplug the cord (specifically the cord) from my car. It stalls out and will not turn back on until at least the cord is plugged back in. Iv tried all forms of plugging it in and out with and without a battery no luck

    When the car bogs down... sounds like its missing, with a crackling noise.
  • My 02 Millenia S (Miller cycle engine) CEL mystery was eventually fixed by replacing the gas cap. At my dealer it was $125 (don't try using a cheap one from your local auto store; pry open your wallet and use the Mazda one -- apparently there's a sensor that relies upon NOT having a dried out gas cap seal). Go figure. :shades:
  • t2tt2t Posts: 7
    I have a 2002 Millenia, which we purchased brand new. It's not the "S", so I have the 2.5L engine. I currently have 162,000 miles on the car. The last 3 years has been a real pain at getting my arms around the EGR / Check Engine light issue. I'm not sure why this car is so problematic in regards to the CEL being on nearly constantly. People shouldn't have had to suffer so much with whatever defect is presently causing the EGR issues. If I were going to buy a used one today, I'd get a written agreement from the seller that if the CEL comes on within 90 days of purchase, then it's their dime to fix it for you. I suspect many of the used Millenias out there have had some recent maintenance to clear the light and the owner got ill from the bill, so they put the car up for sale.

    Don't get me wrong, I'm pleased that I've gotten this many miles out of the car. However, one should also expect to be somewhat free of a car from getting a CEL so frequently. I've done everything possible to cure my P0400 (Generic EGR Malfunction) code to completely go away and it did for about 30 days over a 3-year period, which was long enough for me to get my emissions inspection passed for the next 2 years (I have about 10 months left to go) and then I'll need another emissions inspection, but I doubt if I'll be dropping big bucks into the car so it will pass. I'm very fortunate that I can do 90% of the work on the vehicle myself. To date, here's all that's been done to try to resolve the EGR (P0400) issue:

    1) Cleaned the EGR valve of carbon.

    2) Cleaned out the EGR chambers in the intake manifold.

    3) Cleaned out the two "snake eyes" that hide behind the intake butterfly valve.

    4) Replaced all of my vacuum lines (about 25 feet, total)

    5) Replaced the 2 solenoids for the EGR system (Vent and Vacuum solenoids).

    6) Had the BG EGR process performed ($250.00 at a shop).

    7) I removed the intake manifold and took it to a machine shop to have it dipped int their
    parts cleaner tank and then pressure sprayed to clean out any carbon.

    8) I replaced the EGR valve with a know used working one.

    9) Re-installed the intake manifold, but the EGR issues didn't disappear.

    10) I took it to a shop to have them look into the issue further. They claimed I needed to have my EGR valve replaced. ($750.00 in parts and labor).

    11) I was happy that the issue seemed to be finally resolved, right? Wrong! I had my car inspected for emissions and it passed. Then, a week later, the CEL light was back on. It's been that way for the past 14 months as I really don't want to work anymore on the P0400 code. It's impossible to cure on my car. I don't think throwing more cash into it is the answer ... only to get frustrated.

    I don't see myself buying another Mazda product in the future. A bit too expensive to get parts for - if you can find them. Currently, it appears the front pre-cat is no longer on the market unless you go to the dealership and buy it. The rear pre-cat is available from about 2 or 3 other 3rd party manufacturers.

    The EGR valve costs $400 at the dealership and is about $300 from Mazda discount parts places on the Internet. When I had my Ford Taurus, the most I ever paid for an EGR valve was about $65.00.
  • It could be one code triggering another code
  • Ddi you replace your EGR Sensor?
  • t2tt2t Posts: 7
    "Ddi you replace your EGR Sensor?"

    Greetings. If I could ask more specifically - which component is the EGR sensor on the Millenia? I've checked my replaced solenoids for the EGR (Vent and Vacuum) and they are within spec in regards to Ohms.
  • t2tt2t Posts: 7
    Hi, Sorry about the delay in getting back to this topic. I didn't replace the EGR Sensor, as I don't believe the Millenia has one - even though they have at least 1/2 dozen solenoids.

    I suspect, though, what you're referring to on the Millenia might be what they call the MAP sensor. That is a device, mounted to the back of the engine on the firewall and has one vacuum tube running to it. I believe most of the MAP sensors that I've seen on Millenias were made by Mitsubishi.

    I should probably spend a Saturday morning going to a "Pick and Pay" junk yard to collect some items for potential replacement. Though, there is always the risk of getting a part that's no better than the one you're trying to replace.

    This past weekend, I did buy an universal DC power adapter, though. Using that with my Millenia service guide, some aligator clips and spare vaccum hose, I'm going to follow through with the proper test procedures to determine if the sensors and solenoids are all operating properly when a load is applied to them. This will keep my from buying an endless supply of parts that might not need replacing.
  • Hey Buddy, i had the same problem.... I was about to get crazy, I've spent 700.00 in the last 3 days. I took my milly it to the shop and they did a full tune up, cleaned whole EGR SYSTEM, changed some bad hooses. I changed my Break rotors and pads, and reset CEL, The mechanic told me that my EGR System was ok and wasn't any reason to replace it, That the CEL shouldn't light up again, I was happy for a couple of days, right after I went to the gas station and filled up the tank.. boom!!! the light came again.

    I was continuing doing some research and it looks like the GAS CAP...yeah... The Old Gas Cap is not hold the correct vapor pressure and its making the EGR Sensor to activate the signal...

    So I want to a Auto ZONE and bought a new $10.00 GAS CAP, after few hours, the CEL went off.. Im loving my car again.

    I've also been reading that this did't work with some cheap gas caps and some of the guys with the same problem were forced to buy the original gas cap from mazda $125.00 but it did fixed the problem just by replacing it.

    I wish I knew this very long time ago, because I've been paying under the table to get my Emission Inspection Passed.

    I hope this works for you. ;)
  • t2tt2t Posts: 7
    Your post does seem encouraging. I've gone through the whole EGR cleaning process to the minute detail and still had many issues. I also purchased a new gas cap from AutoZone that apparently worked for about 2 days - then, bam, the light was back on again. I confirmed I didn't have any bad hoses, too.

    With that being said, I hit 165,000 miles on my Millenia about a month ago. I was kind of getting to the point of feeling a bit frustrated with many weekends of having the hood up on my car to get things situated - oil leaks, valve cover gaskets, etc. So, I was able to buy myself a newer Buick LaCrosse. I posted my Milly on Craigslist for $1,200 and it sold within 10 minutes of being posted.

    I liked our Millenia a lot, but locating parts was becoming harder as time passed. Also, the dealership doesn't charge $125+ for a gas cap. I believe that it's somewhere in the range of only $25.00. However, if you buy from tascaparts.com - the Millenia parts are discounted and I think their price for the replacement cap was only about $18.00. I'm not affiliated with them in any way, but have been very happy with their prices and service when I needed them for my true / authentic Mazda parts.

    Enjoy!
  • Update to my previous post about changing out my gas cap to solve the CEL problem: After I questioned being billed $124 for a new gas cap at a Dallas metro area Mazda dealership, the service manager refunded me the $99 "diagnostic" fee. So yes, the OEM gas cap that says "Mazda" on it is actually only 25 bucks. And 3 months later still no CEL, so I'm happy.
  • t2tt2t Posts: 7
    Diagnostic fees ... Grrr. I can see where they're worthy at times if it will truly diagnose an issue - a small one, instead of replacing your motor. However, I feel that they're just another way for mechanics to generate revenue. Connecting a diagnostics tool and reading a few codes will take 5 minutes. Yet, you pay a minimum of 1 hour's worth of labor for it. Also, those "supply" fees and "disposal" fees can take a $25.00 oil change and make it go up to $40.00.

    However, the benefit in using the "true" Mazda cap is that you can continue to use the tether, if you like that feature. Some people who don't have a good memory will leave the gas station with their gas cap still sitting on top of the pumps.
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