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Chevy Silverado and GMC Sierra Starting Problems



  • original_shookoriginal_shook Posts: 4
    edited November 2012
    I maybe have found the problem with the intermittent no start. When my truck wouldn't start, I had it on a rack and checked the wires on the left side of the transmission directly under a shield (possibly the neutral safety). While someone was in the truck trying to start it with the key, I grabbed the wires and shook them. The truck started. Pulled on them with a little pressure and tried start. Wiggled and shook them and it started. So I took off the sheild and found dirt and debris caked around a plug. Cleaned out all the debris and unplugged the wires and found some debris and dirt in the plug. Leaned the plug and all the pins and connections extensively and added dielectric grease to the now clean plug and put everything back together. So far so good. I will keep this topic current if I encounter the problem again.
  • :confuse: So I was at the dealer getting my oil changed and when I went to leave my truck hesitated to start. I quickly turned it off and tried again, same issue. So I went in and asked if they had any issues with it which of course the reply was "no sir everything was fine". So the service rep came out and I showed him what was going on and it wouldn't start at all. So I asked what they did because it was fine before they touched it. He said it must be a dead battery. So I had the battery checked at the local auto parts store and it reads that it is fine. I'm at a loss right now because everything in the truck comes on as it should. It seems that it hesitates to start everytime now. And if it is left for more than 8 hours it won't start at all. Oh its a 2011 Crewcab LT with right around 46k.
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,055

    If you would like for us to check into this further with your dealership, please email us at (include your name and contact information, a summary of the situation, the last 8 digits of your VIN and mileage, and the name of your involved dealership).

    Sarah, GM Customer Service
  • I have been having the same issues, every so often truck just won't start, jumped it one time, took a few minutes of charging then it started. Next time just let it sit for about half hour, it then started like it was brand new. Never has the problem on cold start up, just after it has been sitting for 30 min to a couple hours. I have had the starter, battery and charging system checked. No problems no codes.
  • Talked with others in our company that have either 2011 or 2012 Silverado. A GM tech said it could possibly be our electronic keys for office. So if you have any other electronic devices on your key chain including other chipped keys, this could be the issue.
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,055

    Let us know if you wanted for us to check into this further. I understand you have already had this checked into and that currently there are no apparent difficulties with the starter, battery, and charging systems. We can be reached at (include your name, contact information, and the last 8 digits of your VIN with your inquiry). We would check into this further with your dealership, or at least document that you're having this concern with your Silverado.

    Sarah, GM Customer Service
  • I do not use the parking brake and still have the same problem. It seems like mine is worse when it it rains and when it gets cold outside. I wish I had never bought this vehicle.
  • I am still having the same problem Sarah. It lasted 20 minutes today before it finally started. I tried shifting in and out of neutral, raising the hood and slamming it shut, turning the positive and negative terminals on the battery, stomping the brake several times. I have been waiting, hoping someone would come up with something on this website. I read tonight about someone depressing the parking brake and getting it to start, but I don't use the parking brake. I saw where another guy gets out and tries to rock the truck back and forth to get it to start. The dealership says they can't help me until it will not start at their place. I left it overnight for a week and it started everyday. I guess I am not interested in having them begin randomly changing out parts in hopes of "getting lucky". From what I have read from others in these threads, it is not uncommon for someone to spend up to #3000 for various changes, and still have the problem. The problem with having a tow truck come get it is that others in the forum say it will start once it is unloaded from the tow truck.

    I worked at GM 33 years and must say I am extremely disappointed that the engineers have not come up with a solution to this problem. My wife will not go anywhere with me anymore since we got stranded 120 miles from home this summer. It seems since it is related a to all models from 1996 to 2012 in this forum, GM would have a solution by now.
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,055

    I'm truly sorry that the start-up concern you had back in February on your Sierra is still ongoing and that the dealership has not been able to duplicate it. If you wanted for us to create a new Service Request to continue looking into this (unsure if you had started one with Christina and if/when it had been closed), please send us your VIN and a brief recap as we have some new agents responding to inbound emails at

    Sarah, GM Customer Service
  • Chalk up one more. Mine's a 2005 2500 Sierra. Been dealing with this for about 3 months now and resorted to keeping a 12" flat end screwdriver beside my drivers seat and a flashlight for night occurrences. For everyone with the same problem, this may be the best solution unless, like me, you're wanting to trade or sell your vehicle which I won't do until I figure this out. Anyway.......back to the screwdriver. Fortunately GM made the starter solenoid very accessible through the passenger side wheel well. Just turn the key on, walk over to the wheel well, and cross jump the starter solenoid. While this is at times entertaining to others who happen to be watching or riding with me, the luster has worn off at this point and it's just an annoying necessity. If this persists I will wire a switch direct to the solenoid and place it under the steering column so I don't have to exit the vehicle.

    One thing that I don't believe I have seen mentioned on the numerous threads is that my truck ALWAYS starts cold. Which makes me believe it may be sensor that is being affected by temperature. And it does seem to happen more often with temps above 65 degrees, but is not isolated to that as it happens in sub 50 degree weather at times as well. Another thing is the security system light does not stay on as I have seen others mention. The only solution I have found outside cross jumping the solenoid is have patience....which I have little of. Sometimes wait 5 minutes and sometimes as long as 20 which makes me think it's temp related. But, here's one that seems to blow that theory. Whenever I try to start it immediately after driving it to try and replicate the problem (at a dealership for diagnostics for instance), it always starts. But, if it sits for a period of time (not enough to cool down though), it may replicate. I drove to a repair shop a few weeks ago, shut it down, and started it up about 7 - 10 times until I went in and told them I gave up trying to replicate it. As I went to leave it wouldn't start. But of course, after the tech got all the diagnostics hooked up, it was apparently long enough that it started right up for him. I may try to find out switch out the starter relay I saw mentioned in another post. I don't use the park brake, but someone mentioned that being next to it so maybe that's it. If that doesn't work I guess I'll wire up a switch direct to the solenoid this weekend and hope one of us figures this out by trial and error since it doesn't appear the GM engineers have any desire to figure it out given the many years of this phenomenon.....
  • I have a 2002 GMC sierra 1500 2wd 4.3 and i drove it fine just the other day took a 200 mile trip less than a week ago. i went to fire it up the other day and it will crank but wont start and when i hook up the obd 2 scanner it says "no vehicle is present". i was wondering if anyone had any ideas possibly bad ground strap or something just looking for a good direction to start troubleshooting. and i already checked my fuel pump its cycles on key on power.
  • I was told the same thing. I removed my key from the key chain and kept it alone in my right pocket for the past 9 months. It did not make a difference. The truck would not turnover several times during the time I had my key divorced from the rest of my keys.
  • I have had my truck not start when it is 20-90 degrees) when I first go out in the morning. But I have also had it not start when it has been warmed up and I run into a store for a few minutes. I simply keep turning the key on and off 30 seconds to 25 minutes, and eventually it starts. I haven't given up on getting it fixed, but it looks like there may be multiple reasons for this problem. It sure has helped keep the GM dealerships and spare parts divisions in business, replacing parts that weren't the real problem.
  • I also had remote start and had it removed. Dealership said this would solve the problem. Did not make any difference.
  • Okay..hopefully someone can guide me in the right direction. I have a 1995 K1500 with a 5.7L engine. Started it up to move truck and everything was great. Couple of days later, went out to start it and it ran very rough, finally stalled and could not get it started. First thing I did was to replace the plugs (extremely fouled-black sooty), wires and distributor cap. Truck was very hard to start, had to press gas all the way to the floor and it would finally start. Would run slow and very rough and after a few seconds would come up to speed. Took foot off gas and engine died, could not get restarted. (temperature?)
    Pulled codes off OBT-1 by jumping pins on the connector and reading the ck eng light. Had on code that said something about voltage to fuel pump was low. Replaced water temperature sensor--no luck. :sick: Dropped tank, installed new sender and pump. Also installed new fuel lines and filter while I had everything apart. Same issue. Cleared codes, finally got engine started and rechecked codes. Oh yes...also checked timing.
    Any ideas from anyone?
  • i have a 2003 z71 w110k miles. using computer plugged into inverter at job site. occasionally started it up to charge battery. somehow switched lites from automatic to constant on. last 2 days started fine in am(cold outside temp), but after parked engine off and using laptop, won't start. cranking will turn it over for few seconds then cuts out. will continue intermittently crank but not start, even while continue to turn ignition. is now at AAA running diagnostic, and they so far can't figure out whats wrong. bought truck used from ford dealer( have a good relationship with) 2 yrs ago. battery is undersized though.
  • I am having a simular problem with my 2003 s-10 as well. Its been happening for months and it is randomly happening after traveling short distances (about 1-6 miles). Sometimes happens once/twice a week up to almost every time over the course of one day. It takes anywhere from 2 - 30 min to get it to start back up. This is my 3rd s-10 and the prev 2 never had an issue 91/98. I have disconnected the battery (checked good), checked the electrical wiring (all getting current), swapped out the relay switch and it did not have any benefit. i have tried to get it to fault with mechanics but it hasnt. The next thing I am going to try is hook up a wire directly to the starter and check the current when it faults to see if it is getting the voltage. There was one time it would not start for almost an hour and when ready to call a tow, it started up (after banging around the engine and banging the starter. Last thing I did was wiggle the wiring going in through the firewall and started.) Sometimes I can hold down the key to start for about 5 secs and the engine will start and sometimes it wont.

    I am at a loss myself. I have searched on boards for months and still not been able to get a specific answer or find a specific problem. I am definitely at a loss myself, usually it is related to a direct issue but I cant figure it out. :confuse:

    P.s. while checking the wiring I did get it to fault and the currents were good.
  • today I tried to start my 2000 yukon and it wouldnt start at all, lilke if the battery was dead so I went and bought a newone,i put the new1 and stii nothing so I checked here and someone said to hit the starter gently with hammer so I diid and the yukon starded right away:)))))))) So now I need an advice from mechanic, Do I need to put a new starter or simply just tightened the old starter?
  • I have a 1998 GMC Sierra, 5.7 vortec extended cab. I went to work last Friday morning no problem. At the end of the day, I hopped back in and it wont start. It just cranks over but I'm not getting any gas into the engine. The fuel pump pressure is perfect. I replaced the fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator, and all the spark plugs. I have spark on every one of the plugs when I ground it out on the outside of the cylinder. I tried replacing the cam sensor also, that was not it either. I took it to my mechanic and hes been working on it all week with no advances or even a clue what it could be. All he has determined is that the injectors aren't getting pulse? But he has had 2 GM mechanics out with their laptops hooked up to it and it shows that every sensor, ground, fuse, everything is working perfectly. Does anyone have any ideas or have they ran into this problem before? We can't seem to figure it out.. THANK YOU!!
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