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Jeep Cherokee and Grand Cherokee Brake Problems

hello just bought a 99 jeep cherokee 2wd.the frt brakes work well,but it requires heavy pressure on pedel to engage rear brakes.frt lock up and abs activtes before rear engage.ant help would be appreciated
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Comments

  • As requested i have found and tried the Rotex Gold pads for my SRT8 they are extremely clean, and i am now washing my wheels every 3-4 weeks vs. every other day. I picked them up at brakeworld.com performance brake pads

    mj
  • MJ,
    Are these pads as good as you say? Also, did you have to change anything besides the pads? I have a 2007 SRT8 and I cant stand all the break dust.

    Thanks...
    Butta
  • yeah they really cut out the dust. HUGE difference.
  • Thanks for the info. I think I will check them out. Did you have change anything else???

    Butta
  • 2klaredo2klaredo Posts: 2
    It has come time for me to change the brakes to my 2000 Jeep GC Lareda. I have an I6 with 4WD and need new brakes and rotors. Considering ceramic brakes, any recommendations for parts and in the replacement?
  • kserkser Posts: 1
    Has anyone other than myself have to re-place rotors and pads about every 10,000 miles? I'm at my wits end never mind broke. I've even tried new callipers didn't work. Now I'm told maybe we should try changing the hubs and bearings to see if this stops the warping of the rotors. Any suggestions out there other than get rid of it.
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    I got replacement roters from pep boys
    also relpaced caplers and used good pads 56000 on the pads so far and still ok
    mine 2000 jgc 4.7 4x4
  • oldjeepoldjeep Posts: 3
    Try replacing the rotors with vented ones. They dissipate the heat which causes the warping of the standard rotors. I have the 99 grand cherokee and lived the brake nightmare for years. But once the rotors were upgraded to the vented ones, I got a good 50K on them before my next replacement.

    Good luck!
  • riemfamriemfam Posts: 1
    My 2004 GC just had it's 3rd set of replacement front rotors put on it in less than 4 years. Each set seems to last 1 year. The latest ones lasted only 6,000 miles. Jeep knows they had a bad brake system in 2003 and earlier. My jeep was manufactured prior to June, 2003.
  • ramos01ramos01 Posts: 4
    I have a 2000 GC with 90k miles. I've avoided the brake/rotor problems, still using the original rotors and replacing the brakes years ago. The past 6 months I noticed a reduced braking ability and slight pulsation. I figured my good luck has run out. BUT, the dealership said my rotors are fine and I have 80% of my brake pad left. He didn't do the repair even though I was willing to pay for it. WHAT ELSE COULD IT BE? I'm not imagining things.
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    still the roters
    when you change them put on aftermarket not oem will have prob again have had aftermarket ones on my jgc with 50000 miles so far no prob
  • wtd44wtd44 Posts: 1,211
    My daughter has a 2004 GC she bought new, and got only 20+K out of the original front brakes. Once we got past the anger of not getting a repair under warranty, a friend at NAPA helped me out. I bought a set of "upmarket" rotors that were just below the top of the line rotors. The pads were ceramic, as I recall, and were recommended in the NAPA literature for Grand Cherokees. I have never been happier with a brake solution I have selected. I would recommend NAPA replacement rotors and pads to any owner suffering from those fast-to-fail brakes. I have just recently purchased a 2007 GC for myself. I'll keep an eye on the brakes, believe me.
  • kingekinge Posts: 2
    I owned a 1999 Grand Cherokee, and the brake rotors had to be replaced due to warping every 10K to 15K miles. I traded it in for a 1994 model after being told the brake problem had been fixed. NO SO!. The '94 has been in for brake vibration every 15K or so, but the dealer took care of all expenses. At 40K I needed new front rotors, but the dealer said he could not warranty them past 12K miles, which has proven to be an unacceptable time frame. The dealer said that several customers had installed cryogenic slotted rotors with ceramic pads, which have been successful to date, and I had my dealer do the same. Time will tell. Rotors and pads were sourced by my dealer from Tirerack.com, and the prices were very reasonable.
  • wtd44wtd44 Posts: 1,211
    You might want to try the NAPA fix I put forth in #10 above. My daughter's 2004 is nearing 50,000 miles, and the front brakes remain perfect.
  • chrstphrchrstphr Posts: 2
    Howdy kser
    I own an '03 GC
    Warped rotors replaced under warranty at 10k
    Warped rotors replaced under warranty at 22k
    Warped rotor replaced by me at 38k
    Piece of [non-permissible content removed].
    I guess if you want to drive a jeep, plan on replacing rotors every year.
    By ther way, the pads last forever. I don't think its my driving style. Also, I've never had the vehicle off road.
    :cry: C
  • keithy02keithy02 Posts: 9
    BIG BUCKS HERE FOR NEW ROTORS HEARD THERE WAS
    A CLASS ACTION SUIT AND THIS ROTOR PROBLEM
    BEEN GOING ON FOR YEARS HELP
  • timmer23timmer23 Posts: 24
    I had gotten in the habit of turning the rotors every year and replacing when I couldn't turn any more. I began to think that perhaps the problem was because I was using cheap pads, so I bought heavier-duty pads but that didn't make a difference.

    I deliver mail in neighborhoods out of my Cherokee, so the brakes get really hot with the constant stops. Sometimes the pads glaze and brake after being installed a short time. I'm considering replacing the pads before they wear down to the point of needing to be replaced to see if that helps any. I've been tempted to purchase slotted rotors, but am too worried to spend hundreds of dollars on a pair of rotors and have them get messed up as well.
  • lunghdlunghd Posts: 61
    Timmer23 - yah, I had the same problem... didn't burn the rotors up that bad but rears just wouldn't pull their weight leaving the fronts to do most of the work. Watch that - first time you have a panic stop on ice/snow/rain you'll lock the fronts and the rear axle will keep pushin' ya right along if you have an automatic. (Ask me how I know...) Long story short: the problem w/ burning up the fronts is often caused by the rears not doing their share of the braking. Causes can be anything from a master cylinder that's not doing the job for the rear circuit, bad adjuster hardware for rear drums (common), to bad rear hose (also common), bad prop valve (less common but still to be considered)...

    -------------------------------------------

    Jeep Cherokee rear brakes universally suck. It's just a fact of life XJ'rs live with... and occasionally pucker the seat with when stopping. Sorry - about the politest way to put it.

    Complete brake fluid changes are an often neglected area of maintenance.

    Jeep brake hoses, older ones especially, are prone to collapsing internally and can create a 'valve' that prevents full pressure from reaching a caliper or the rears.

    The drum brake auto-adjuster hardware is garbage. Replace it ALL every time you install new drums. It still won't work... but you'll feel better. :D

    Early XJ's can benefit from a 96 booster & master cylinder swap which ditches the single diaphragm booster for a double diaphragm unit. Master cylinder swaps, prop valve swaps, hose replacements... you name it, it's been tried to cure this common ill for XJ's.

    Grand Cherokee rear discs are a popular swap as well as others if you are mechanically inclined and willing to do some fab work.

    I ended up swapping in Crown Victoria police car rear discs, new prop valve, new stainless lines & have a hydroboost unit to go in...
  • timmer23timmer23 Posts: 24
    I've noticed in the majority of Cherokee's I've owned that the rear brakes didn't seem to be doing their share of braking. A few months ago I took my 2000 Cherokee to a mechanic to diagnose a braking problem that I couldn't figure out. It was an easy fix for him (stupid oversight on my part), and while he was at it he adjusted the rear brakes and told me to get in the habit of using the parking brake, which keeps the rear brakes adjusted. Right away I had more braking power and could tell that the rear brakes were working better.
  • I have a 1989 Cherokee Laredo 4WD automatic 4.0L (160K miles) that I picked up recently and before I fix the body damage, I noticed the ABS hydraulic pump comes on and runs for 10 seconds, then stops for 15 seconds and then repeats. This happens with the engine running in park or drive and whether or not you are stepping on the brake pedal. I figure that this is quickly wearing out the (expensive?) pump, so maybe I should just part the car out. The brakes seem to work normally when driving, but the pump continues cycling.

    Is this normal or acceptable for the pump to be running so frequently? If not, is there an easy fix (replacing the pressure sensor switch)?
  • afreeafree Posts: 1
    As so many other people my rotors also warped. I decided to replace the rotors and while there put in replacement pads. Here's the problem. After replacing them both I test drove the car about ten miles and brakes were so hot they smoked and when put on a jack the wheel (pass side) wouldn't turn until cool. I took the pads off 4 times (both sides) to check if I overlooked something. Each time the test drive ended the same way Pass side, then drive side then pass side again. I returned the pads and replaced with better ones and same thing happens again. If I put the old pads back in all problems go away. Has anyone heard of this? I'm not new to brakes but can't figure this one out. Do I need to replace both the front and back at the same time? Seems strange to me. Please help me someone!!!!
  • ABS light came on and will not go out. I found the front sensors and they are plug in. I found one more plug on either side which I think go to the rear sensor. Does anyone know that for sure. I also have noticed sometimes that the Jeep going up hill will miss a few times and then smothes back out. Does anyone know what to check for on this problem. I need to get the ABS light off as I can't stand it. I have not had the Jeep very long. Any help will be appreciated. Thanks
  • The other two sensors that I am talking about are on the firewall by the front sensors that are plug in. The other two are females and do not have the male plug.
  • I am looking to buy a Grand Cherokee for my 16 year old. Is 105,000 miles a lot of miles for one of these? I know Wranglers go way beyond that with no problem. Laura G
  • Hey I think this is a great vehicle for a 16 year old. He/she will be sitting higher while driving and this will help with their vision. It does not have that much power unless you get a V-8 but this is a good thing for a 16 year old. When you buy something like this you have to consider they will probably have some type of accident while they are young. You are talking about someone who average 11,666 miles per year. That is very good and the inline 6 will run a long time. Depending what you are going to pay for it I say go for it. They are fairly easy to work on. Hope this helps with your answer. I would not be afraid to buy it. Good luck!!!
  • i own a 1990 jeep cherokee limited 4x4. it has spent a lot of time in the shop. i am having brake problems. as in brakes that bottom out when you really have to lay on them. the pedal is spongy and when it bottoms out i don't mean on the floorboard it seems to bottom out in the master cylinder. this jeep had anti lock brakes on it when i got it and something went wrong with the module locking up the rear brakes when you were sitting at a stop sign. anyways they wanted about $1500 for a module so i didn't get one. instead i removed all the anti lock stuff and went conventional power brakes. to date it is all new from front to rear. here is what is new, booster master cylinder proportioning valve (new chrysler) all lines except the short two to the front brakes, both brake hoses on the front wheels and the single one on to the rear axle. new rear drums shoes and springs, new front rotors and calipers and shoes i have double checked all the part #'s and everything checks out(all parts are aftermarket for a 1990 jeep cherokee with standard power brakes)i have put on 3 new master cylinders. i have mostly front brakes and hardly any rear. i have fluid to the rear but it doesn't seem to have much pressure. i cannot lock up any of the brakes even in the gravel. they have been bled out about 50 times. under normal stopping conditions it doesn't stop too bad but still seems to be front brakes and the pedal pretty far down. it seems to have a lot of vacuum to the booster also. ... any help with this one would be appreciated thanks jim
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    have you checked that you have a little clearance on your rod that goes into your master cylender? so that you are letting the piston in the master cylender move oll the way out? if you don't have the piston move all the way out you could only have front brakes as the rear part of master cylender piston works the rear brakes.
  • I have 2001 JGC 4.7L V-8 with the quadra drive with 150K on it. During the past several months the brakes have gone in and out. At times, the pedal loses all of its pressure and other times the pedal and brakes work just fine. There are no leaks. I have never opened up any lines. I just took it to a mechanic and he could not find nothing wrong and the brakes worked fine for him. I need some help! Thanks.
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    when the peddle looses all pressure can you still stop jeep?
    do you have to push harder or what
    if have to push harder could be vac buster going bad
    if peddle goes all the way to floor and you have to pump the brakes then bad master cyl
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