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Jeep Cherokee and Grand Cherokee Brake Problems

245

Comments

  • it does not stop when i lose pressure and the pedal goes to the floor. it seems like pumping the pedal does help. can the master cylinder be bad even if it does not leak???
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    yes has small little rubber like cups inside that push the fluid and they can gobad
    if the fluid has never been changed that could be your prob would change master cylender and try that
  • I bought my 96 Laredo with 93K and now have 308K on the engine. I've had problems with the brakes and A/C but it continues to run fine without major problems.
  • I have changes out all the brakes and the rear brake cyl flushed out the lines but no pressure to the back anybody know how to fix this issue? :confuse:
  • Hey,
    you may have answered a problem I have been researching for years. What can I do with my useless rear brakes, 89xj trail rig.

    Other than the swap from a donor 96 Booster and master cylinder, are there any clearance issues? Would I have to relocate anything for that one?

    Do you happen to know which year of Grand Cherokee Brakes, and what would I have to fabricate? I am okay at fabs, minor and have friends who are much better than I if I need it.

    They are looking for the same upgrades.

    Randy
    rc

    Keep the rubber side pointed down, or at least sideways.
  • I have 1993 cherokee sport. after driving or letting sit at idle my brake pedal gets really high. Ive replaced both front calipers and both front hoses. The master cylinder has been replaced also. I have no ABS so thats ruled out but i have bypassed the proportioning valve and the problem still exists. Any ideas? Im getting extremely frustrated.
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    power brake boster between master cyl and fire wall
  • correct me if im wrong but if the booster goes i wouldnt have a pedal. when the key is off and i press the brake the booster checks out air tight. the pedal rises like it supposed to. everyone ive talked to is completely baffled. but hey i hope your right. thank you.
  • the other thing is when i crack the bleeder loose on the passenger side the pressure releases and i have no problems again until the next day. so to me that would be something hydraulic right?
  • > after driving or letting sit at idle my brake pedal gets really high

    Sounds like the brake booster to me
  • well again i hope you guys are right cause im gonna try that. I will let you all know if that fixes the problem. Again thank you for all your help.
  • well i never replaced the booster. Only for the fact that when i removed the master i found that a whle back i adjusted the adjuster rod out and never put it back in again. I adjusted it back in half way and BAM!!! problem fixed. But thank you for all your help everyone.
  • First off, I use my 2000 Cherokee to deliver mail, so I do a lot of braking. I've been using this Cherokee since January 2006, and the rear brakes hadn't been touched until several months ago when a mechanic adjusted the rear brakes when I was having some service done. (The result was a very noticeable improvement in braking. He also advised me to use the parking brake regularly, as doing so would keep the rear brakes adjusted.)

    A couple weeks ago my left-rear brakes were grinding. I removed the drum to find a mess. I'm not sure which happened first, but one side of the wheel cylinder was broken, the parking brake strut had fallen out of place, the shoe lining was completely worn and digging into the drum.

    I replaced the drum on the left side and the shoes, wheel cylinders and all springs on both sides. The brakes seem to be working fine, however I still hear a grinding sound when I brake, typically only while braking firmly after the brakes have gotten hot. I checked all four brakes today, and everything looks good except that the shoes on the left-rear are already half worn. I would guess that the left rear is sticking (perhaps there is a clog in the line?), but I had no trouble removing the drum. In fact, the drum came off easier than the right side.

    Anyone have any ideas or suggestions as to why the shoes are wearing down and how to fix it?
  • the first thing i would check is to see if the parking brake cable is hanging up on that side keeping the brake on . they are famous on about all vehicle for rusting when not used. and then when you use them after a long time the rusted section of cable hangs up inside the cable housing. you'll need to have someone operate the parking brake while you watch underneath to see if it is moving freely. if everything is working properly then i would check the brake cylinder on that wheel again you will need two people. one to push slowly on the brake pedal and you to see if the cylinder is expanding the shoes then returning by the spring pressure to where is should be. my guess is that it is the emergency brake cable. you may not be able to free it up and may have to replace it. mine on my cherokee hasn't been used for so long it won't even move. hope this helps ...jim
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    could also be the flex line that is going bad inside
  • Please purchase vented rotors because they cool down faster than regular rotors
    Jeep's are heavier than passenger and all that extra vehicle body weight causes more friction when the brakes are applied and please make sure you use ceramic brake pads and this will be the end of your break problem issues I promise
  • Please help! :

    For anyone with a 1999 to 2004 GC that has grinding brakes and has spent a fortune on garage repairs to no avail, I hope that you can all help to find the answer to this question.

    After hours on the internet I have found out that there was a class action against Daimler Chrysler alleging that the front brake components including the rotors and calipers are faulty such that some of the vehichles manifest pulsation when the brake pedal is applied. A $14 million decision on GC's from 2003 and 2004 meant that they were eligible for free repair (or payment for repairs) under the warranty (in the USA!! I can find no class action info here in the UK) - earlier cars like mine are still pending. However this is not really the problem the problem is how best it is fixed.

    I cannot get any information from Jeep UK as to how to rectify this problem without taking it to a main dealer and paying them a fortune. I know that Service Bulletin 05-003-06 informs of how to fix the problem but they will not let me have it or know whats on it! Does anyone know?

    I figure that I need to change the rotors and calipers but have read in many messages that the standard ones are useless and therefore need ceramic ones? Can anyone out there let me know what are the recommended best parts to fix this problem.

    I would be eternally grateful if you could, I have spent a fortune on having new pads and hoses and having the brakes stripped and replaced but still the grinding!

    A further question if I may...does anyone know what causes the singing sound at highway speeds again I think it is a common 2001 GC fault if you know how it can be fixed please let me know!

    Thanks to all.

    Astrea
  • wtd44wtd44 Posts: 1,211
    Back on 06 FEB 2006 I posted the following statement in the forum titled: Stop here! Let's talk about brakes...

    "The best thing I ever did for a Jeep Grand Cherokee was put in NAPA near premium pads and rotors. The cost was close to $300 for parts and well worth it, to get rid of the maddening brake wear that Jeep doesn't see fit to address themselves! "

    My 2004 JGC has 56K miles on it now, and that's about 35K since the brake job. My system seems to still be very good, and only quite recently I have heard some squeals at times. I must take a look at the pads and rotors and assess current wear, and will do so the next time the rig is on a lift for tire rotation.
  • kingekinge Posts: 2
    My 2004 Grand Cherokee had the same problem with pulsating brakes as my 1999. The dealer covered all expenses on my 2004 until 40,000 miles, but after that I was told that the factory 12,000 mile warranty would apply. Since the rotors warp between 12,000 and 18,000 miles just like clockwork, replacing them with factory rotors and shoes was not considered to be a good investment. My Jeep dealer mentioned that several customers had installed cryogenic slotted rotors with ceramic pads sourced from tirerack.com. I had the dealer order them for me at a slight upcharge over what I could have bought them direct to make sure the correct parts were ordered. In the end, the total installed price was very little more than if I had used factory parts.

    So far the slotted rotors with ceramic pads have been flawless, but I won't know just how good until I approach 25,000 miles. One very nice feature of the ceramic pads is that there is no buildup of brake dust on the front wheels. They stay as clean as the rear wheels. I think there are other posts touting vented rotors and ceramic pads. You have nothing to lose by trying them because the factory rotors and pads for the front wheels are absolutely worthless.
  • My XJ zaps the automatic gates as I drive up to them!
    None of our other vehicles do it.
    The Emission seems fairly constant as the remote control unit will not work untill the jeep is driven out of range (around 30 yards)
    It occurs regardless of the remote being in the jeep or not.
    It has ocurred with the engine switched off as well
  • My front driver side break pad has worn down and is rubbing gauging the rotor. The passenger side has pleny of pad left and the rears are in excellent shape...any thoughts?
  • My front driver side break pad has worn down and is rubbing gauging the rotor. The passenger side has pleny of pad left and the rears are in excellent shape...any thoughts?

    The brake caliper needs to be replaced, and both front calipers should be replaced at the same time. When replacing, be sure to install the caliper with the bleeder valve on the top side.

    If the problem persists, there may be a clog in the brake line.
  • Thanks. I figured the same but only have 30k miles on the car, thought it weird one side was bad the rest were fine. We will see what they say.
  • naatz1naatz1 Posts: 187
    I put on what I believe are NAPA near premium rotors (slotted, $125/pair) and pads ($70 pair, they had some around $30 & 60 also) on my front brakes a couple months ago prior to selling my 01 JGC to my son with the Jeep now @ 85k miles (I bought an 07 JGC @ YE closeout). This was the first replacement since we had the dealer do it under warranty @ 36k miles so I do say the upgrade Jeep parts were better than the originals especially since we had more in town miles & braking the last few years. I questioned paying that much for NAPA but my mechanic likes their stuff and I've had good luck going there for "kid car" parts. My son doesn't always watch car maintenance so I wanted him to have a reasonably good/safe system going off to college, good to read your opinion here on these NAPA parts.
  • wtd44wtd44 Posts: 1,211
    I've got a buddy who works as a "service writer" in a NAPA machine shop. He helped me fathom my way through the NAPA offerings, and so far, it continues to be a good choice. My best to you and your son on yours!
  • Please help!

    My Jeep is a 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo.

    I hear a hissing/whooshing sound as soon as I start it. The sound seems to be coming from the brake booster.

    When I use the brakes at any time, the hissing/whooshing sound stops. But when I release the brake pedal, the sound starts again.

    The braking system works well.

    Any advice?
    Sure would appreciate it.
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    brake booster need to be replaced, seal around where the rod from brake peddle is leaking
    brakes will still work but you will have a prob with valves and stuff as it allowes the fuel mixture to lean out where the vacuem line is hooked to the engine thus causing the temp to rise in that area of the engine poss causing internal damage
  • Hi, please could someone help me bear some light on a problem with my Jeep Cherokee Orvis it is 1999 model, and everytime it goes on ice the brakes dont work properly and makes this horrible grinding sound. Otherwise it is perfect, it is definately something to do with the ABS, as when I take the fuse out its fine.
  • wtd44wtd44 Posts: 1,211
    Could it be that it's just the natural sound of your ABS in operation?
  • Hi, thanks for your reply.. no, theres something wrong the grinding is very loud and braking is very bad when it happens
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