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Caravan/Voyager Engine Problems

mobilemecmobilemec Posts: 8
I need help. I have a 98 Dodge Caravan w/ 3.0L. It had a cylinder #5 misfire. I replaced plugs, wires, and cap. It did not help. I performed a compression test and cylinders 1&3 are 130 and cylinder #5 is at 55. What would cause this? Oil and coolant are fine. Someone told me a broken ring but it does not smoke or burn oil. Cold a bad valve cause this?
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Comments

  • hi, i have a problem with my 1996 caravan 3.3,when :cry: running normally the engine shut off, i turn on and she run perfect but repeat the problem ,i change the crank sensor ,can sensor,test another engine computer, change the fuel filter and pump,check the tps sensor and make the same.the oxigen sensor are new,the transmition are new.please some one help me .
  • theriaulttheriault Posts: 1
    Hi, I am replacing the engine in my 1999 dodge caravan ( 3.0 l). I believe that the engines from 1997 - 2000 are the same, but I have a buddy that has a 3.0 out of a 1994 or /95 that has very low mileage and works well.. What problems or modifications will have to be made to make it fit, or is this not possible.. Any help appreciated.
    Thanks Ruby :confuse:
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    This most likely will be a huge nose-bleed. Why? The engines from the Gen 2 vans were controlled by the first generation OBD-I firmware whereas the engines for all vans starting with the Gen 3 release were OBD-II compliant. I suspect that the engine itself will fit, but the rewiring job (either of the engine or the van) would make this a virtually impossible conversion.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • bubbles4bubbles4 Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 dodge grand-caravan with 101,000 miles on it. A mechanic of mine suggested I use 5-30 weight of oil in the engine. If he is correct than what brand, type (such as conventional, synthetic blend or synthetic) and weight. Anybody out there with any input on this matter I would greatly appreciate it very much.
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    Yes, the 5W-30 should do perfectly well in most situations, and 0W-30 would be even a bit better if you live where the snow flies. FWIW, I use Mobil 1 0W-40 in both of our 3.8 liter DGCs (and used Mobil 1 0W-30 before that and 5W-30 before that) with great results (and great UOAs as well).

    Regarding the synthetic versus conventional discussion, yeesh, where do I start? Ummm, I'm thinking that you might want to browse the last several months of posts under the Synthetic Oil topic:

    ruking1, "Synthetic motor oil" #7000, 27 Jan 2007 10:23 am

    That will either answer all your questions or make you more confused than ever. ;-)

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • lovecdlovecd Posts: 50
    I recently noticed an abnormal noise when driving in low gear (L gear) on my 98 Caravan. That noise will disappear after shifted to higher gear (D gear). When I changed to D from Reverse gear, I can hear this noise in very low speed, after it switched to higher gear with higer speed, this noise is gone. This problem come out right after I use my Caravan to pick up the furniture I just purchased last week (about 450 pounds, ofcourse I removed my second and third row seats), and I did not apply the parking brake when loading the furniture, so, the car can move or shake a little during loading and unloading, not sure if this will associate to this issue at all).

    Appreciate if somebody can give some advise here.

    Thanks!
  • sfunezsfunez Posts: 1
    My 2000 plymouth voyager was leaking and my husband changed the timing and water pump. Now no leak, but my van will not stay running after ignition. I have to constantly push the gas pedal to keep car running. Any suggestions? This was not happening before my husband tried to fix it.
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    It sounds very much like he didn't properly line up the timing marks on the cam and crank sprockets before torquing the sprockets (and chain) back in place. Sorry to have to tell you this, but he needs to go back in. :-(

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,460
    I concur. It is very easy to get the marks off kilter mid-process. I did this on my '96 Subaru once and the only solution was to reset the timing belt. Not fun, but it should fix the problem.
  • lovecdlovecd Posts: 50
    Noticed something is wrong with my 98 Caravan recently. Have my mechanic shop checked and was informed that the trans is gone and needs a new one with a repairing cost of $2900. Considering this is a 9 years old vehicle and resell price is about $4000, should I go ahead to fix it or simply donate it, get some tax returned and buy a new vehicle?

    Your comments will be highly appreciated!
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    Last year the transmission went out on our 1998 3.8 liter DGC when it had 109,000 miles on it, and I didn't even hesitate in arranging for a factory remanufactured transmission to be put in. True it cost me $2,600 for the new tranny, but I figured that since the rest of the van was operating perfectly well, the money was way cheaper than buying another car. That was 37,000 miles ago and my decision has proven correct as I've only had to do brakes and a new starter since.

    Let us know how you make out.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • lovecdlovecd Posts: 50
    Thanks for your comments! By the way, did you get your transmission replaced in Dodge dealer or other auto shop? And is $2600 including everything?
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    I paid $2,600 at a Dodge dealer, and yes, it included everything but the rental car. ;-) FWIW, I did some shopping and found that while some outfits were willing to do the job for nearly a thousand dollars less, those transmissions only came with a thirty day warranty. I wasn't impressed.

    I also found other shops that would do the job for about $2,200, and those transmissions carried a 12 month/12,000 mile warranty. That said, I was relying on that car for a long daily commute and didn't have the luxury of screwing around with warranty repair work, so..., the 36 month/36,000 mile warranty on top of the factory remanufactured unit easily got my dollars.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    The factory reman is built to the latest engineering build for that generation of transmission (i.e. the 2000 model year), and as such is the ONLY Gen 3 minivan transmission that was built from the start to use the new fully synthetic Mopar transmission fluid called ATF+4. Prior to that, all minivan transmissions used the semi-synthetic (and less robust) Mopar ATF+3. As such, I have every confidence that this van will be well north of 250,000 miles before it needs another transmission. ;-)

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • lovecdlovecd Posts: 50
    Hello Shipo,

    Thanks for your comments! I finally decided to get my transmission replaced and it was done a few days ago. By the way, when I looked and checked the new transmission underneath, the transmission pan cover doesn't look like new (pretty similar to the old one), while other parts looks new with Chrysler symbol. On my receipt, there is a separate charge for 5 quarts ATF-4 fluid. I remembered that Chrysler should provide the whole package (including fluid and new pan cover together, etc., auto shop should just replace the old transmission unit with the new remanufactured one without filling atf-4 fluid separately unless it needs topped). Did you get the samething on yours last time?

    Thanks!
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    My new transmission did indeed come home with the pan from the old transmission, and as such it makes total sense that the fluid needs to be added after installation. That said, I don't think I paid extra for the fluid.

    Did they warn you that your new transmission was going to shift rough for a couple of thousand miles while the fuzzy logic control unit "learns" your driving style? FWIW, I was actually kind of alarmed at how the new transmission shifted for the first month or so, but can report that it did eventually get itself sorted and its shifted perfectly well ever since.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • I have a Chrysler Town and Country 3.3 and a Dodge Caravan 3.3. Both are 2005 and 70,000 miles.
    After driving I noticed a slight rattle from the front of the engine. Replaced tensioners and the noise is still there. Any common problems with Timing chain in these cars?
  • 2005 grand caravan with 3.8 ltr.
    55,000 miles on it.
    Any speed when you push down on the pedal 1 to 2 mph. it runs rough or shakes.
    Replaced plugs already.
    And ideas?
  • Was it doing this before you replaced the plugs? If not, then the plugs might be crossed.
  • yes. That's why I replaced them.
  • hearing bottom end engine noise only at idle or low rpm. Not a rod noise, thinking might be crank walking. Noise seems to be very close to flywheel. have remove oil pan and looks normal? have not measured end play as of yet but if i pry crank forward and back it seems a bit excessive and noise sounds similar. any thoughts and if thats the problem is it hard to fix?
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    Is the knock occasional, occasional as in not every revolution, more like three or four knocks and then quiet for a few revs and then back again?

    If so then it is considered "normal". I first noticed this noise from the 3.8 liter engine in our 1998 DGC (a virtual twin of the 3.3 engine) shortly after we got the van. Now, 150,000 miles later I can still hear it. The noise hasn't improved and it hasn't gotten any worse, it just is. I'm thinking it might be oil pump related.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • originally thought it was a pulley or waterpump or even a/c because it always gets more pronounced when the a/c compressor comes on. Removed belt and noise is still there. totally goes away with a little rpm (2000, or so)
  • lovecdlovecd Posts: 50
    Hi Shipo,

    Long time no talk, hope all goes well. I got a question for you about that remanufactured transmission for Caravan we talked few months ago. After I got it replaced two months ago, I found a noise when driving between 35 to 45 miles, bring my car back to dealer, they diagnosed this problem and replaced another transmission for me under Chrysler's warranty. However, I got the same noise again. The answer from Chrysler is that this is a normal noise and will not cover it any more. I was wondering if you got the same noise when you got your transmission replaced last year? Any ideas?

    Thanks!
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    One, question. Does the noise coincide with a drop in RPMs on the tachometer?

    As far as I know, all Gen 3 and Gen 4 minivans with 3.3 and 3.8 liter engines go into torque converter lock between 35 and 45 mph (warmed up and under light throttle load), and when that happens it isn't unusual to hear some resonance from the exhaust system.

    In the case of both of our vans, assuming a light application of the accelerator pedal when on a level road, the engine RPMs will drop from ~2000 to ~1500 when in the 38 to 45 mph range. Occasionally, depending upon loading and such I'll hear some engine and exhaust resonance.

    A good way to rule this out is to take a test drive and manually select "3" with the gear selector for all speeds under 50. If you do this and you hear your "noise" then it's a fair assumption that the problem is simple resonance.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • lovecdlovecd Posts: 50
    Thanks for your advise! I will do this test later on. By the way, if it is resonance, will that goes away after driving few thousands mile (break-in period) or will stay forever? It is kind of annoying to me.
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    If it's resonance, then it probably won't go away as the problem isn't the transmission. What is happening is that when the torque converter locks up, the engine RPMs drop to a point where the engine is almost lugging, and that in turn sets up a vibration through the exhaust system and other components attached to the engine.

    Typically resonance isn't a problem, however, if the exhaust system has been damaged at some time in the past, and/or one or more of the exhaust hangers is missing/damaged, the problem can manifest itself as a noise or even an amplified vibration.

    Keep us posted. ;-)

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • Has anyone else seen/heard this problem?
    I sure could use some help here.
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    I'm thinking probably not as there haven't been any responses to your original query.

    Grasping at straws here, you might want to consider buying a premium belt from Napa/Gates, Mopar or Dayco (and by "premium" I mean the best of whatever they sell, usually costing somewhere north of $40 for the belt), as cheap belts have a tendency to slip a bit causing a ringing or chirping sound.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • Thanks...we've changed the belts to premium with no change. Only happens when warm, and it's definately a metal rattle.
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