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Caravan/Voyager Engine Problems

13

Comments

  • vade2x2vade2x2 Posts: 3
    I have the same problem. I have a 97 plymouth voyager with the same # 5 cylinder compression. I don't think it's the rings either. A friend told me either a stuck valve, push rod or lifter. My van has 175,000 miles and I do not want to spend the money to find out what is wrong unless the repair will be minimal. I have been inquiring on the net but with no luck. You are the second person I have found that has the same problem. The van still runs, but stalls a lot when idling under power. I'm always putting it in neutral when I have to come to a stop. Have you found out anything?
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    Which engine? 3.0, 3.3, 3.8?
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    "I have the same problem. I have a 97 plymouth voyager with the same # 5 cylinder compression. I don't think it's the rings either. A friend told me either a stuck valve, push rod or lifter. My van has 175,000 miles and I do not want to spend the money to find out what is wrong unless the repair will be minimal. I have been inquiring on the net but with no luck. You are the second person I have found that has the same problem. The van still runs, but stalls a lot when idling under power. I'm always putting it in neutral when I have to come to a stop. Have you found out anything?"

    Okay, having a 3.0 liter engine means that you have the Mitsusquishy engine, not the best of the three V6s available for the minivans. The good news is that the lower end of the engine (i.e. the block, crank, pistons and rings) are pretty robust, however, the upper end is highly suspect. That you have no compression on the #5 cylinder means to me that there is a very high likelihood that you need to have the heads reconditioned. Unless you do the work yourself, you’re probably looking at well over $1,000 for the job.

    Sorry to be the bearer of the bad news.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • vade2x2vade2x2 Posts: 3
    thanks shipo for the info. I will start looking around for estimates !!
  • I want to start out by thanking everyone for all of the great commentary and advice for questions already posed. PLEASE HELP ME!!
    Anyway,
    I have a 3.3 6 cyl. that suddenly began knocking and sputtering last week after getting a tank of NOCO gas here in Buffalo. Heavy wet carbon shooting out of tailpipe leaving deposits on driveway. Loses power as I step on the gas and starts smoking heavily out of exhaust at 4k rpms in park gear. My buddy at Midas said no diagnostic code was popping up, and since then no engine light has come on. Took it to a local Dodge dealer who said it was running lean. They drained the tank, flashed the computer for some sort of combustion reset and sent me on my way 300.00 lighter. Nothing has changed and losing more power now as I push on gas.
    Any ideas??

    Thanks,
    Mark
  • calishayecalishaye Posts: 6
    hi, I have a problem with my engine stalling when I'm at a complete stop. It always starts right back up and only stalls when I'm at a complete stop, such as at a stoplight or stop sign. It only stalls when the air temp is at a certain temp that I can tell. I first noticed problems last fall, then during the winter I had no problems with it at all. Now that it's warming up, it's beginning to act up. I first noticed it acting up again after I used the air conditioning for the first time this season. Also, it idles rough, and if I am driving for a while, it starts to run rough, and if I press on the accelerator, there is a lag time before it speeds up, it acts as though it wants to quit. sometimes when I am pressing on the gas and I come to a stop, it jerks. No one seems to know what's wrong with it. Any help would be much appreciated.
  • the engine on this van with 155000 miles lost power while driving down the road. After shutting it off, it would not turn over. Battery, altenator are ok. A mechanic saie the engine was seized. The engines fluid levels were all normal. No oil leak,only a slight tapping noise before this happened. Did anyone else have a similar problem and or a solution?
    Thanks,
  • I went to change my water pump on my 01 voyager and now my timing is messed up. Can anyone help me find the timing marks and what to do next? Help Please.
  • i have a clicking noise in the front end when i put the van in gear, before i release the brake pedal any help would be appreciatd
  • faaacyfaaacy Posts: 1
    bigdope, IF you find an answer pleeease let me know.
    I believe i have the same prob. 03 Caravan started missing(sputtering) and smoking.
    Runs poor. #3 and #6 cylinders missing. This came out of nowhere while driving home 1 rainy day. No help from my mechanic. fuel drained, plugs changed etc.
    ANY advise appreciated.
  • What has been the history of these engines with regard to dependability? I am looking at a 1998 Caravan with 69,000 miles on it. It runs smoothly but I have heard that there have been problems with oil blow out. Any thoughts??
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    Our former 1998 Grand Caravan went 170,000 miles with very few repairs (starter, window motor, door switch, headlight bulbs, and muffler and tail pipe), however, it had a Chrysler motor in it instead of the 3.0 Mitsubishi. While some folks are able to get good mileage out of the 3.0, many other folks report a number of oil related issues such as external leaking and consumption through the valve seals. Personally I'd avoid a 3.0 liter van and look for one with either the 3.3 or 3.8 (virtually identical engines except for the displacement) engine.

    Best regards,
    Shipo
  • Thanks, Shippo. So the Mitsubishi motor is found in the Dodge? How many miles can one of thes vans be expected to go? With 69,000 miles on it now it would appear to be a good value at a price of $1800. What do you think?
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    Not being a fan of the 3.0 Mitsubishi motor, I'd take a pass on that van and look for one that has the 3.3 liter Chrysler motor instead.

    Best regards,
    Shipo
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,687
    I will agree with that. I have noticed a few issues like that being mentioned about the 3.0, but nothing so far regarding engine internals with the 3.3/3.8.

    Now having owned one (3.8L with 213,000 miles), I think the major weakness with these vans is their electrical systems. So, you will undoubtedly run into some minor (and, perhaps major) issues, such as those Shipo listed in his original response, regardless of the drivetrain, so you might as well hedge your bets on the engine. At 213K, the engine in mine is as strong as ever with no oil leaks and it purrs like a kitten.

    At $1800, there may well be some existing issues with it even if it is low miles.
    2010 Subaru Forester, 2011 Ford Fiesta, 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup, 1974 Ford Pinto Wagon
  • tjoktjok Posts: 3
    I had a Plymouth Voyager with the 3.0 that went 135000 miles before passing oil through the valve seals. I just bought a Dodge Caravan with the 3.0 and 88000 miles. At 69000 miles, you should get 50000 miles before oil problems. 50000 miles for $1800 isn't bad. I am a fan of the 3.0. They run smooth and have good torque.
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    Then there are some of us who wouldn't touch a 3.0 van even if it was free. Why? Because the 3.3 and 3.8 liter twins are easily as smooth, significantly more powerful, and typically go an easy quarter of a million miles with no oil control issues (or any other internal issues as well). Case in point, our two 3.8 liter vans have over a combined 300,000 miles, and they both typically consume about a quart of oil every 7,500 miles, just like they did the day we drove them off the showroom floor.

    Best regards,
    Shipo
  • tjoktjok Posts: 3
    I own a 2005 T&C with a 3.3. 52000 miles. The engine is smooth and strong, except that it has this nasty rattle at idle. This rattle is getting more annoying by the day. I don't think I'm the only one experiencing this. If you know what the cause of this rattle is and how to fix it, please let me, and all the others know. This engine may run a quarter million miles, but I'd rather have one that runs 150000 miles without the rattle. I don't think I'm goin to keep this great engine another year. I don't think I can put up with a quarter million miles of rattle. If you know what the fix is for this 'common rattle', please let us all know. This 'common rattle' is really getting annoying.
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    I seriously doubt that the rattle has anything to do with the engine at all. Off the top of my head I'd suggest that you look at the clutch on the alternator, and/or the serpentine belt, and/or the idler pulley, and failing that, make yourself a "Redneck Stethoscope" (i.e. a cut off piece of garden hose), put one end up to an ear, and slowly move the other end around the path of the serpentine belt until you discover the source of the noise.

    As for there being a "common rattle", I'm a moderator on a site that is dedicated to these vans and I've never once heard of such a rattle, so I'm thinking that it isn't all that common.

    Keep us posted on what you discover.

    Best regards,
    Shipo
  • tjoktjok Posts: 3
    I went through all of that. I removed the serpentine belt which elimitates all accessories, water pump, etc. The noise is still there. Long story short, I think the problem is in the valve train. Bent push rod, collapsed lifter, broken rocker pedestal, lack of oil to the top of the engine, etc.. The next step will be to remove the valve covers and take a look. I don't have the time to be doing these things.

    I have listened to this engine for hours. This rattle is coming from within the engine. If you do some searching, you will find that many people have reported a rattle at idle in the 3.3 and 3.8.

    My point is that I had a 3.0 and it ran great. The 3.0 will have oil control problems at 150000 miles on. But up to that 150000 miles my 3.0 ran great. I would drive another 3.0
  • I have 2 of those vans in my fleet. They both have a timing chain rattle which is common and have had this noise for 2 years. It hasn't changed or gotten worse since then.
    Just my 2 cents worth...and I own a shop.
    www.goldenruleauto.com
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    If, as goldrench says, your hearing the timing chain rattle, then yes there is a very subtle rattle from the chain, and that rattle is something that a timing belt style of engine like the 3.0 cannot make. So take your choice, a chain that makes a little noise and lasts for the life of the engine, or a belt that needs to constantly be changed. I'll take the chain.
  • jpfjpf Posts: 496
    What transmission does the 3.0 liter have, 3 or 4 speed automatic?
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    As with too many other things, it depends. Some 3.0 liter vans had the 3-Speed, some had the 4-Speed. While I've never been in a 3-Speed van, I believe I've heard that the display for the gear selector is a bit different. For the 4-Speed vans, they have three forward gear selections that go like this: D, 3, L, and obviously if a van has a 3-Speed transmission, that display wouldn't make any sense.

    Best regards,
    Shipo
  • does a 1998 voyager 3.3 have a timing chain
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    Yes, the 3.3 and 3.8 liter twins both have timing chains that are typically good for the life of the engine. :)
  • Hi im new to this forum & i got some ???s. I have a 05 dodge caravan 3.3L And from take off at a stop i can hear a knockin sound. So i turned the key off and on 3 times and got a code reading PO522 Meaning Engine oil Pressure Sensor. I looked it up and couldnt really find anything on it so would any of u guys know this & would it have something to do with my little knocking problem...? Thanks
  • I have 2000 3.3 Caravan with rattle noise in engine compartment, after i replace belt tension, valve lifters, timming chain and finally the fly wheel crack that make the noise. So I suggest you might want to replace the fly wheel, i know it a big decision to make.
  • It the fly wheel crack, replace it and you will not regret.
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