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Caravan/Voyager Engine Problems

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  • Hi from sunny SA. I have a 2004 Grand Voyager 2.5 diesel with 140 000km (87000 miles) on the clock. Had all its services at the dealer. Never had problems with oil leaks or run dry. Only overheated once because of cracked water container. While driving I heard the engine sound became louder than usual. I drove 25 miles like that to my house and by that time there was a distinct "clacking" noise with each revolution as the engine revs. The car is now at the dealership and without having opened the engine, they suspect that the bottom bearing/s failed. Is this possible to happen without warning and would I have been able to drive the car like that. Are there anything specific I can ask them to look for. I don't know much about engines.
  • srs_49srs_49 Posts: 1,394
    My wife drives our 2007 DGC with the 3.8L engine. We bought it used 2 years ago and it now has 59,600 miles on it.

    I started the van up the other day (Dec 22) to take it to get new tires. The car had been sitting in the driveway all day, temperature around 30 deg F. Immediately upon starting, I heard a loud bang, sort of like a belt coming off. I checked the serpentine belt and it was fine. The engine ran rough for a few seconds, like a cylinder was missing, then smoothed out. The CEL came on, but then cleared itself a day or two later. I pulled the codes anyway and got a P0306-"cylinder 6 misfire".

    Now, whenever we start the van up from a cold soak (overnight), there's a slight stumbling/missing that clears up in few seconds. This only occurs after sitting for several hours - it does not happen when you turn the engine off and back on again in a few minutes. Also, there's a ticking noise from the passenger side of the engine - where the serpentine belt is. The CEL is off, and I have not read the OBD-II port to see if any codes have been stored since I cleared them out.

    I'm thinking maybe a valve lifter went bad (#6 cylinder?), in that it drains it's oil when then engine sits and needs to be pumped back up again when the engine starts.

    Anyone else experience this? I've heard good things, longevity-wise about the 3.8L, and hope it's not a lifter.
  • trip1976trip1976 Posts: 1
    It has the 4 speed. As far as past problems it has none. I have replaced the spark plugs and wires. Still does the samething
  • musicvanmusicvan Posts: 2
    i have a clicking sound like you mentioned, it started soon after an oil change. Now my CEL comes on every once in awhile, while driving it will sputter and almost feel like it going to stall. I got a cylinder 5 misfire error code. HELP please... I need to fix this. Thanks in advance
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    A couple of comments:

    - Diagnosing noises, CELs and misfires over the internet is difficult, to say the least.

    - To opine any further I'll need to know the year of your van and which engine it has.

    - With the above two points said, when you get a CEL then the best thing to do is to have the "codes" read by a shop in your area with a OBD-II code reader (virtually any shop will have one).

    - Of the noises I described two and a half years back, which sounds most like what you're hearing?

    Best regards,
    Shipo
  • bbarefootbbarefoot Posts: 1
    edited May 2010
    i have 2001 voyager 3.3 v6 #2cyl wasnt firing replaced coil pack plugs wires runs better but still has miss at low speed and idle any similar poblems its been on 2 different computers no codes no check engine light
  • hawk1018hawk1018 Posts: 1
    When driving slow or attempting to maintain speed it seems like I am loosing power or like the engine may stall. When accelerating it seems to be fine though. I just had my 60000 mile service done. Also recently the check engine light came on but it is no longer coming on so I don't know how to get the error codes. Any Ideas would be appreciated. Also not sure if it matters but the shop that did my 60000 mile service put 5w30 in instead of 5w20 and I had driven about 300 miles before I noticed...mainly because the oil light came on and the van stalled but started back up fine. I had them drain and refill w/ 5w20.
  • gonna try again,, no ans. last time. Van drives, runs good ,then starts to buck. New fuel pump,filter, sock, relay. It does this until you're about to go home with it, and then it runs perfect. Doesn't quit, but idles erratically, and sounds like popping noise under hood. Van is my handicapped veteran buddys. Help????? He needs the wheels.
  • I would check the plug wires for cracks. Sometimes shorting wires can cause the kind of problem you described.
  • Ok i have a 97 Plymouth Grand Voyager and it has 225xxx on it ....was running great last year untill the fall and then it started to shut off while we were driving down the road, but it would always start right back up....so we didn't do anything about it. Well now it is having trouble starting at all. One day it will drive like a champ :D , then the next day it wont start :confuse: , then the next day it starts up first time :D .....well now it wont start at all. We just put in new plugs, new wires, new ASD relay, Fuel Pump relay, and EATX relay, oil just changed, just had injectors and vacuum lines cleaned out, and a new battery. So now i don't know what to check, I thought it was the relays but they're new, it is getting fuel pressure, the injectors had power, but when i checked the coil i did what Chilton said to do but i didn't seem to get any resistance, could the coil pack be the problem, i hate to spend another 50 just as a guess.....any answers would be great, thank you....
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    This type of intermittent problem is often traced to the instrument cluster. The typical fix is to pull the cluster and touch each of the solder points with a hot iron to liquefy and then reset the connection from an electrical perspective. I'm not saying this is definitely the problem, but I'd sure be looking there as a potential source.
  • I had the same thing happen last year. Would work fine in the am when it was cooler out, then in the pm when it was warmer it would stall. Would start right back up again. This happened for a while because they couldn't figure out what the problem was as no codes and no check engine light, then it worked without any problems for about a year. Started having same problems again and finally the check engine light came on and they were able to get the codes. Had the camshaft and crankshaft sensors replaced and this fixed it. However, I recently am having this same problem again. Am wondering if the problem was never fixed or the sensors are going again after 11 months. Am bringing it in tomorrow to have them look at it. It's stalling again, even while I am driving down the road. Then it has to sit for a few minutes before it starts up again. Aggravating.
  • how could the instrument cluster cause this? Could it cause other problems as well, such as the blower motor going and instrument panel lights going out? Thanks. I had this same problem that he described, then had the camshaft and crankshaft sensors fixed, then it worked great since, but now am having the same problems again 11 months later. STalling when I come to a stop and even while I am driving. Always starts up again.
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    All of the control signals to the BCM (Body Control Module) pass through the instrument cluster, and when there is an intermittent short, the BCM gets a tad confused. That you're experiencing more problems when things are warmer just reinforces my suspicion that you need to be looking at the solder points behind the instrument cluster.

    The thing about the instrument cluster fix is that it's free (although you do need to account for your time).
  • Could it cause sensors to go haywire? I finally got the check engine light to go after about a year of this problem and no one knowing what the problem was. They got the codes and changed the camshaft and crankshaft sensors, which took care of the problem; however, almost a year later, it's happening again and about the same time of the year that it started happening the first time, when the weather started getting colder.
  • I have a 2001 voyager. It starts and runs great but you touch the gas and it stalls this is new. It ran great tell yesterday. Any I deas
  • I have a 1997 Plymouth grand voyager se 3.3. I have a tapping coming from the lifter. Does anyone know the best way to change out a bad lifter??
  • well i have replaced the fuel filter and the fuel pump and now I have the same thing. I touch the cau and it dies. I am running out of things to do any ideas.

    Ray
  • The old fashion way...you have to pull the air plenum ,then the head, then there is a holding bracket to remove....sometime the lifters will come out with just a tug of pliers(be careful not to scar them). If they are gunked up you may need to rent a tool to pull them. I have a voyager with a noisy lifter right now, but it isnt worth all the work to replace it since it has over 200k on it and it's on the rear bank and hard to access.
  • knickyknicky Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Grand Caravan and its just over 150k, recently while driving, all the electrical power in the van seems to go out, radio, gauges but there is no loss in power. One time the battery light came on, which I understand can mean the alternator and a couple of times the van will die at a stop. A lot of the problem seems to happen when the AC is on, a few moments later the power seems to be back on. If anyone has any idea why the shorts are happening that would be very helpful... the Mrs. is getting restless...
  • natb1natb1 Posts: 10
    edited July 2011
    Im ususally pretty good with electrical challenges, but for the life of me, I cannot get this blue retainer out of this connector. I cant determine exactly where it latches so I can insert a tool to release it. Its a fuel injector wire harness for a 2001 DGC. Any ideas? click the link below to see the picture.">

    https://skydrive.live.com/?cid=7B04935E44DF0879&id=7B04935E44DF0879!119
  • srs_49srs_49 Posts: 1,394
    Just curious - you already have the connection apart. Why do want to remove the blue insert?
  • natb1natb1 Posts: 10
    Thanks...I got it out. It just needed to be pulled straight out with needle nose pliers. There are no latches inside that keep it in.

    You cant pull the pins out unless the blue feature is removed first. Removing it exposes all the individual pin retainers.

    Thanks for the reply.
  • Hi I have a question, how do I disable the EGR system on Chrysler Grand Voyager 3,3 L 1996 ? Thanks in advance !!!
  • We have had several so called computer/sensor problems solved by replacing the alternator.. It seems that when the regulator circuit starts to go bad they still put out DC but will intermittently put out AC at a frequency that drives the computer nuts.. The flaw is that the same circuit that charges the windings on the alternator also is a direct link through the ASR to the PCM powering lug in the harness..

    Also found that some harnesses have a splice to branch off power to several places including the computer to run the sensors and injectors.. It gets corroded and starts dropping voltage below the 10 volt minimum.. Symptom would be that it runs fine but suddenly shuts down and wont start.. Damp days can enhance or relieve the problem..
  • Rotten splice in the wiring harness dropping voltage from 12+ to below 10vdc or faulty regulator on the alternator.. Eliminate the alternator by unplugging the 2 or 3 wire connector and see if it starts and runs fine.. Had this happen on several engines 2.2 2.4

    Wiring harness with corroded wires will work fine till resistance rises due to heat from current flow.. Damp weather can make it better or worse.. Finding rotten splices can be a bugger but we always start around/under the battery tray, vertical runs up front and crossing runs near the power steering rack.. Removing all that tape and loom to visually inspect sucks so if you have a wiring diagram to check resistance in the wires and a garden hose to get things wet to look for voltage drops kina helps..
  • 2001dgcs2001dgcs Posts: 1

    The transmission on my 2001 grand caravan makes a noise only when shifted into gear, it doesn't matter if it is forward or reverse. It is pretty loud when not moving and is barely audible at speeds over 20 mph. To me, the sound resembles something of a bearing with too much play in it. Since it only happens after it is put into gear I am assuming it can't be any of the auxiliary services that are always spinning, is this true? Any ideas what it could be?

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